Fi Technical

I have 2 18 BTLs that are dual 1ohm. I want to run an amp to each sub, would i get a 1ohm stable amp or a 2ohm? I just dont want to have wiring issues the amps i would like to run would be 2 saz3500's. thats my goal

I have been having trouble trying to understand on how to make a box design, so I was just going to see if anyone here could help me. I know that when some one asks this question they tend to leave out important information when needing help so I'm going to give you all the info I can, and please tell me if I am missing anything. Trunk dimentions(MAX): 17" Tall, 35" Wide, and 20" Depth Subwoofer: Fi Sp4 15" Loaded D2 ohm sub wired to 1 ohm Amp: Audioque2200D Wire: All Sky High Car Audio Cable Alt: Stock 180 amp Batteries: Xs Power D4700 hood & future Xs D1200 trunk It'll go in the trunk of a 2012 Chevrolet Cruze. I've tried using Torres Box calc and google sketc…

i would like to know what is causing my sub to get to the point where i smell voice coil.. the sub is a 08 15" bl flatwound coil p chamfer in a 3.4 cubic ft box tuned to about 42 hurtz. Could the box be to small, port not proper size, lenght or could i be pushing it to hard? I am running jbl gto 1400 at 2ohms thank for any and all input.oh yea sub is d1

So I just recently ordered a fully loaded Fi Q 15" and now I need to decide on an amplifier. I'm thinking either a Hifonics HFi2000D or a Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400.1D. I will be running them at 1 ohm. Do you think 2400 watts rms is too much for a fully loaded Q? I think it should be okay, but I would like to hear some other opinions.

First off. I am Unimpressed with FI's Silence. Unfortunately Scott and Nick have pretty much decided they are going to Ignore my Emails concerning taking them (Scott) up on the offer to replace the sub of find a magnet cover to hide the huge chunk missing out of the Ferrite. 2 weeks worth or emails have never been replied to so I have decided to cut my Losses and install the Subwoofer in the Oak Ply box I built. I waited and waited but with the weather turning cooler I wanted to get it in and running. On a Side note, a few Woofer builders have offered to repair the woofer at a reduced cost to help me out. So that was nice of them. I may take one of them up …

What would be an excellent recone epoxy that I can get from Lowe's or Home Depot that would be good to reconing 3-12" FI SSD's???

Waiting till thursday to order teh new 12" Q but I want to get started on the box... I've got room for a 29.5x19x8.75 deep box... (this is going in the back of a 350z) This puts it at about 2.05 sq ft after the driver displacement. I was going to go sealed, but have changed to ported... I need to figure out the length of the ROUND port to use... I saw a post on the 350z forum where a guy used two 3" ports at about 32Hz "needed 34" total of 3" port to be tuned @32Hz" Can someone confirm, using your awesome math skills, that 34 inches total of 3" port is correct? I'll need to split the ports into two ports... I'm aiming for this look... FI Q12 in the Z... - MY350Z.COM For…

A good friend of mine just recently traded his 2 12s for a Btl n2 15 and is now looking to build a box. Being the guy he is, he likes the lows. This sub may not be the most applicable for his needs but he's hoping for the best. He likes loud, and he likes low. We were both thinking about a box that is roughly around 4 cu ft using 3/4 mdf. We were also thinking on possibly doing an aero port(s) design. Although a slot port is still an option. If it helps to know, the box will be going into a 1991 Jeep Cherokee. Also it will powered by a Hifonixs Brutus brx2400. He and I would very much appreciate if anyone has any designs for this type of application and or any re…

If one does decide to get this option does this by any means help increase the subs BL and if so do you guys have a estimated number...

So I have a buddy that

Are they measured when the subs are new and stiff, or after they're broken in?

Hi all, I was curious, has the topic ever come up on here about running one of the Fi dual voice coil subs with only one voice coil connected? I was reading through a forum post on the12volt.com about how it should not damage a subwoofer if the loss of heat dissipation is accounted for by running at a lower power level. Obviously it is better to run both coils whenever possible, but it might be useful to run single coil if someone were stuck in a non-ideal amp setup. the12volt thread What % of RMS power would be acceptable to send to a dvc sub in single coil configuration? Thanks

ok i have 2 fi btl 18's, 2 cresendo 3kwp, 2 xs power 3100's, iraggi amputator 300a, big three. i jus have NEVER heard of anyone putting an 18" btl in a 9.5NET or bigger cu. ft. box per sub everrr!! and i dont really know what optimal its gunna be daily driver, i want as much SPL AS I CAN GET AT LOWER FREQUENCIES such as, i wanted to tune port at 32hz. HOW MUCH PORT AREA PER CU. FT.? i kno im a noob i on this forum but i know wat im doin everything except box specs. i was thinking up fire subs bo dimensions, 45"width x 41" depth x 24" height INTERNTAL DIMENSIONS ARE 42"width 38"depth 21"height, btw i was going to use two layers of 3/4" mdf all way around so total of 1.5"…

ive got a plan for my two 12" BL's. it comes out to be 5.5 cubes..is this too big? i can easly shrink it down or make it bigger if needed. thanks.

Obviously, you can already tell I am major noob at all this, but learning. I am getting the 4 15" BL's when I save up enough to do everything. What I need to know is what Ohm do I need to pick for the BL's. I have yet to get a amp. I was hoping to run 2 amps, maybe the Kicker 2500.1, but not sure. Any and all info on what Ohm setting and amp I should get would make my day better. Thanks.

I think it's just me, but there are some random gaps if you will. I have some pictures from my slr that i'll upload in a while. Just want to make sure theres nothing bad. Thanks

I am getting ready to build a box for a btl n2 18 and I found these cut sheets on the forums Fi links to from their home page. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44518-btl-box-cut-sheets/ The dimensions just so happen to be perfect to fit in my escape in the area I have left. I have 3 questions. Is this a decent box design? Is there any problem laying the box on its back to fire sub up port up? ( too close to back hatch I think to fire back ) And it shows the hole the sub goes in as 16 3/4 diameter. Is that right for an 18 inch btl? I figured it would be close to 18 inches?

I ordered a 12in fi bl with cooling and flatwind to run from a hifonics brutus brz1700.1. It will be putting out 1700rms at 1 ohm and the sub is dvc 2 ohm. I was planning on a box with the dimensions of 30x30x15 with a 2.75 in port. I was going to tune it to 34 hz so how long should the port be? Or should I get an aero port instead? I want the loudest possible setup with what i have.

just crusin didnt even make it off my street sub up like half way.. sub cuts out, amps not in protect, no sound whatsoever out of the sub... pull out the DMM.. 2.1 ohms resistance at the wires out the sub (my dual 1 BTL in series) ok.. sub is not blown? set to voltage.. check the outputs on the amp got fluctuation in voltage with music on, unplug the RCAs voltlage stops fluctuating.. so i figure I'm getting signal from the amp, from the headunit, to the sub... where the hell is my problem I'm stumped.. Dual 1 ohm 18" BTL in 6.7 cubes@31hz in series to 2ohms Hifonics XX-Cyclops wired to 2 ohms ~3KW RMS been running it this way for about 2 years maybe longer.. didnt c…

I know the routine in making a sealed enclosure but have a few questions before I begin.... This is the first one I am making for my 15" Q and I am getting 3/4 mdf and using 1.5" on the front where the sub is mounted. I was planning on using liquid nails to glue the boards together and then screw them- should I then caulk around the inside after that? Also when doubling up the front baffle, should I just glue and screw two pieces of 3/4 mdf together and then attach to the rest of the box and cut my sub hole in both? Any other tips, or things I forgot before I start building? Thanks guys for the help!

all my life i have been a sealed guy, i just love the sound of a sealed setup and how low and deep they can play, so i got talked into going ported for my next system..im going with 3 18'' fi Q series, fi suggest 6-10 cu ft per sub, im thinking of going in the middle with 8 per sub, im also going to throw 800 watts at each one, what do you guys think about this? i will be using this for daily driver and i listen to both rap and rock music..so im hoping the subs can keep up with the fast beats..also 28hz sound good to you guys?

Im gonna get 2 12in BTLs and I was wondering if they could handle 3,000RMS or higher and not have to worry about it, and the sub would be a daily sub but fully loaded otherwise.

i want to build a new enlosure for my 18 btl. ive never done any bandpass box before and now id like to try it. do you have any suggestions or a website were i can find a good instruction how to build a 6th order bandpass (calculator)? i have a suv and ~10 cft of space.

My enclosure is strangely shaped because of my spare tire, but it's 4 cubes @ 32 Hz with 58.5 sq. inches of port area. My Q15 has the BP power option and I'm powering it with a Sundown Audio SAE-1000D. My headunit has 2V pre-outs and the 1000D has a 0.2v - 6v adjustable input sensitivity, so my gain is about 3/4 of the way up. I have an Excessive Amperage 250A alternator, big three with 1/0, 1 group 65 Duralast Gold battery and 2 Kinetik HC1800 batteries wired in parallel with 1/0 gauge... Does it seem like I'm not getting a lot of excursion? "white girl" by U.S.D.A. vid 1 "hood nigga" by Gorilla Zoe vid 2 "choppin' blades" by UGK Vid 3 Vid 4 Vid 5

I just got my BL in the mail from Joseh K. and USPS has fucked my basket UPPPP Could this be fixed my some very careful welding? I mean what else is there to do with it.....