Fi Technical

Guys i am fully aware that the flatwind and the coppercoils are two options you can not get together... My question is why can they not be done together (i am trying to learn all i can about the build of these subs for sheer knowledge) ? I was guessing that scott hasn't found the right coil for the flatwind to get a favorable response to have both copper and flatwind.... And if there is any great advantages to having both, WILL they eventually be a way to get both options? And if you guys were to find a way to incorporate both will the Q later have an option for the copper coil (I suspect the Q has a flatwind on it, thus no option for a copper coil)?

Hello Guys/Gals, I was wondering if cold weather will damage a sub? Do I need to keep it down till warmer weather, or can i just let them wang? I live in northern Indiana and its currently in the teens here, so stuff gets brittle... Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

ok so i got two fi btl n3 12s i went it had it metered on music did 149.3 on music on kick panel and 148.6 on windshield on music they said subs peaks in my box around 33 to 37 hertz which they said is good for low bass is that pretty loud score for that low of hertz? i also have a sunroof that leaks air and roof that shakes like crazy some people say it can hurt the dbs to dynamat or gain so what do u all think

Hello everyone, Im looking for some input on new woofers. Looking to do two 12's in 6.5 cubes, ported to 29 hrz.(havnt designed yet) I am stuck between FI Q's and BL's I understand that its not entirely fair to compare specs of subs as there are many variables involved, but how does the BL's motor compare to the Q's? The Q having 28mm of Xmax and the BL having 19mm xmax. Is the BL's motor just much more powerfull? What are the real world diffrences and which one is better for my application? Amp is: 4,000 watts rms(1ohm). they will be wired down to one ohm

Hello all, I'm planning a new build and was going to use 4 DAD BD woofers but have been also looking around at different companies and wondered if anyone could compare the DAD BD's to the Fi SSD. I already own a BD-15 and love it, but have no experience with Fi audio what so ever. I'm going to run either 4 15's or 4 12's (most likely 12's) in my 1999 Subaru Impreza on a Cactus 5K. I need to get loud at fill tilt but sound good a lower volumes, my DAD woofers do this VERY well. If anyone has experience with these two woofers any info is appreciated.

Would I be able to get a machined compression plug for my RE XXX v3 motor on my next recone to help with cooling? Will it negatively affect performance?

Configure Speaker: Ohm: dual 1 dual 2 P Chamfer: no yes +$10 Cooling: no yes +$40 HiXmCoil: no yes +$20 Daily or SPL: Daily SPL Induct Heat Ring: no yes +$25 Universal: no yes I can't seem to find what these options mean and/or how eeach affects the end product and I would like to order a couple of the Fi 18" BLTs. I will be playing them daily. Does anyone know where these options are explained so that I can decide what to choose and why?

Ok so how do i wire my speaker wires from my box terminal to my amp just - - and ++ this is for 1 ohm

I would like to get a FI 12 Q sub. On the front page of the FI website it says "All subwoofers are custom made to your desired options in 3-7 business days" but contradicts itself when you go to order the sub which says "30 day build time due to US steel delays." Which one is it? I want one of these subs but not sure I want to wait 30 days for a build on it.

does anyone know a phone number or something to contact fi about a question? ive tried emailing and it didn't work, they ignored me. i ordered a fi q 18" about a month and half ago and i noticed it had a black basket instead of gray, then i ordered another one a couple weeks ago and it had the gray basket and many differences. and just over a week of having the newest one, there is a popping noise coming from the sub as if its starting to go bad already. any comments just let me know....thanks.

Does the cooling option effect the performance of the sub? like does it make the sub quieter or anything? i read the flatwound coil makes a sub prone to peak so what does the cooling option do?

look at the cooling channel around the one o'clock position, it isnt lined up but all the rest are! is this normal? if not any performance issues from this?? thanks

im new to this so what do they all mean? and i want to get two bl 15" so do i get dual 1 or 2 to get 1 ohm?

ive had my bl 12"( just one) for about a week and its broken in but it doesnt get as loud as i want it too. so im thinkin i may have messed up on the box. can anyone take a look to c if i messed up on the box? dimension: 14.00" h 14.50" D 35.00" W Total inside volume BEFORE sub & port displacement = 3.15 cuft Port dimensions = 3" X 12.5" x 36 (L PORT) Port volume = 0.95 cuft Sub displacemnt = 0.15 0.95 + 0.15 = 1.1 cuft. 2.0 + 1.1 cuft = 3.1

I have the box in the pic below and I don't believe it's gonna be the best for my Q! I want the most output possible! I'm thinking around 2.5 cuft net with the port around 30 Hz! I have a Rockford Power 1001BD stable @ 2 ohms. I listen to all types of music but love really low notes!! If someone could tell me the dimensions of a box with port dimensions it would REALLY HELP ME ALOT!!! Or, if you have other recommendations!!! Thanks!!!

Ok. So i recently bought some BNIB SP4 from a local IAK member. Nice subs look great coils check out everything is all gravy with that. I have been out of audio a bit the last couple years and haven't been on here much. So I look up some things on the sp4's and I keep seeing articles of them catching fire. I had a Bl about 6 years ago catch fire, but I was a bit younger and was clipping the shit out of it. I keep reading and reading and most say it is user end failure. Also my specific sp4's have the spider spacer, and I go to the Fi website and they no longer offer that option. So with that being said, why is that option no longer available? Should I be concerned about…

I've posted one thread similar to this one once before, But I felt the need to make one a little more clear. I own a Pontiac Grand Am. One of the worst vehicles to work with when it comes to car audio installs due to very limited room. I got an idea the other day sitting in the front seat looking back at my folded down back seats. I figured.. what if I took the open area where my seats fold down leading to my trunk area, put up one peice of 3/4 or so MDF across that opening, cutting a opening in it for the 18" BTL and another for a port that's tuned to 30-35 hz and using my entire trunk area as the enclosure, without the need to build an enitre box. Since there is not eno…

Could you recone a FI SSD with a FI Q or BL recone? If so is there any advantage or difference?

i currently have a crossfire vr 2000d and an optima yellow top with a kinetik hc600. running 0 ga from the battery then 2 ga from the kinetik to the amp. im currenty upgrading the "big 3" and am looking at an alternator around 200 amps or so. is that enough upgrade to feed that amp? the type of subs i was looking at are the FI BL15's which are 1000w rms and also the RE AUDIO sx15's which are rated the same. also if anyone would recommend an enclosure not only for daily but for comp. as well....probably somewhere along interchangeable ports

I am looking at getting a 10" Q. Would a Crunch GP2250 be a good choice of amp if I got the dual 2 ohm? I would bridge the amp and wire the sub at 4ohm. If I'm not mistaken then that would be 1000w rms, right?

iam building a box will 41 INCHES BY 21 INCHES BY 22 " be fine for the sub and how many cubic feet would that be thanks for any help !!

Just being curious, about how nice would 4 15's, either BTL or BL, sound being funneled through a cut through in the bed of a truck going into the cab. Would the rear seats ruin a lot of the air being moved? Or will stuff still fly????

This is my current box plans for the 1 18"BTL and 1 Saz-3000d I have. I plan on putting all these into a 03 Tiburon(hatch) and competing in spl. Really my only question is would a bigger box better/ is 5.27 cubic feet enough. Thanks box: (outer dimensions) heighth = 16.5 width = 36 depth = 21.5 port: (inner dimensions) heighth = 5 width = 7 length = 10 this port will tune the box to about 34.67 hz which is what i personally like to tune mine to. after port displacement...this will give you about 5.27 cubes of air. so you have room to brace it and not go below the recommended volume. this is also assuming that you're using 3/4 MDF. competition port: (inner dimensions) he…

So I got a 15" Fi Q for Christmas. Everything else that I need for my system I have as well. The only thing that is missing is a subwoofer box. Originally to save some money I was gonna build my own sealed enclosure. But after talking to some of my friends and family I decided to get a professionally made box. Here's the problem though, the only site that I've managed to find is, www.klausaudio.com. And while the site looks great and the options for customizing your box is superb, they're not taking orders right now. (Or responding to my frickin e-mails...) So I wonder if you guys knew any other respected custom box dealers/makers. P.S. Since I want a sealed enclosure I w…

I will be building my first custom box for a Fi Q15. I will be putting it in a 1994 Toyota Camry. The cargo space is 14.9 cuft, I will edit my post later knowing the actual dimensions I know there are a lot of experts on this forum that can give me some helpful advice on how to prepare the box and how to correctly brace it. I have used a layout generator online and I was wondering if these dimensions were suitable for it. Net Volume: 3.3 cubic feet Tuning Frequency: 32 Hz Port Width: 4.75 inches Port Area: 78.375 Square Inches Port Length: 55.25 inches External Dimensions: 28 wide x 18 tall x 26.75 deep. Color Count Width Height Top/Bottom 2 28 inches 26.75 inches Red 1 2…