Fi Technical

Ok I'm picking between the lanzer opti 2000 or 1400. Based on the specs at a 1ohm load with the 2000 I would be getting around 1600 watts "give or take" running to the sub right? With the 1400 the max is about 1300 but I would expect like 1000 or a little around 1000 like 900 something at 1ohm. Which one would u guys pick between the 2? Just for reminder I have the Fi Q 15 with bp option Man reason I'm asking is I don't wanna over power my sub.

What is the Induct Heat Ring and what is its pros/cons?

Well I am gonna be going for my first recone attempt. It will be a BTL. I am feeling pretty confident but have a couple of questions. First thing How do I properly clean all the excess stuff from the original BTL. Like the surround on the basket and where the spider is glued down at. I was told just a heat gun to get it loosen up so I can just pull it all off? Second I hear alot of people talk about the "Triple joint" and how well that is glued. What is the triple joint? Also I am confused on how to properly "shim" it. Is it that the shim alligns it properly so that it doesnt rub? If so that means the paper shim is only making like a hairline gap? And wheres the best pl…

First post guys, so please bear with me... I'm looking at a 12" Q for my sealed enclosure. Here's the thing, I've got an enclosure that's .88 cu.ft. I did the search and came up with what seems to be a optimum 1.2 to 1.3 cu. ft. Here's the question, how will this driver respond in the .88 sealed with 750w rms? Thanks guys.

Hey guys, Mr. Noob with here with another question again.......I am putting in binding posts to replace the terminal cups in my sub box cuz all my wiring is 8 gauge and the cups do not accomadate 8g wire. Plus I always go "OVERKILL" for peace of mind. When talking to Mike of Zenclosures(guy that made my box and he's GREAT guy like Scott is by the way), he said I could just use silicone to seal the new posts. I've seen people here talk about caulking so which is better? Or is silicone adequate? Enquiring minds want to know????????????????

So would I be better off gettin an Ssd or bl? I'm jus getin one fifteen and I'm not lookin for sound quality jus wanna shake houses and go deaf and also I hav a Pontiac grand am.. Wuld the subs be better firing up.. In the cab? As of now they are facing outside(ATM I have 2 12" inch kicker cvrs powerd by 1000 watt kenwood in a pretty big ported box takes up most of my trunk)

Hey, i recently built a box for my 2 Fi X 12's, it is a ported wedge box 4.37 cuft after port and sub displacements. I have a 4 inch ,"precision port", flare port and is 6 inches deep. The problem is that the sub closer to the port moves more and im thinking that i could get more out of the subs if they both had the same movement. A little confused.. i was told that it would be louder if i would have divided the box and but two separate ports, one on each side rather than one on the passenger side. By the way i have them on a Autotek MM1000.1D

for some strange reason my system hits the hardest when my box is angled like this in my trunk.. Less rattles and everything its almost as if my car pressurizes itself and it doesn't rattle or I just don't hear it..

Hello, I was wondering what kind of screw I should use to mount my 12in BTL in 3/4in MDF? Thank you

do you think it would be fine for a 15 fully loaded btl to handle 2 sae 1200 on each coil at 1 ohm i did this with a solo x 12 before it hit hard

hi i have a 2nd gen btl i have a 5cubic foot box tuned a 33 hz i want to tune my amp but i dont no how to figure out how many volts each ch can take can anyone help thanks im runnning a hifonics brutus brz2400.1

Would I be able to get a machined compression plug for my RE XXX v3 motor on my next recone to help with cooling? Will it negatively affect performance?

Here is the Max Dimensions im working with Height 1 18.5" Height 2 23" Depth 17.5" Width 38.5" 2 15" Q's I figured out if I got with 65 square inch of port (which is only 10.8 per cube) I would have 5.6 cubes internal volume @ 32hz will this be alot louder than 5.2 cubes sealed? I could go with external ports and make it something like 5.8 cubes maybe, Box will be gettin done next week and I'm freaking out cause I want it to be loud Do you think sealed these two 15's will still be alot louder than my old 2 12's Kicker CVX's in a 3 cube ported to about 34hz? I'm gettin a headache just thinking about it

Been debatin on 3 10" bls or 1 15" BTL off of 4Kw. I'm thinkin about goin with 1 15" BTL so i got some questions. What options do i need exactly for the following scenario? - It's for daily, tuned to 33hz, running off of 4kw of power. No SPL but i will be playing, sometimes, bass tracks for show off purposes. Absolutely no clipping guaranteed. Let me know if this is correct or if i should change\add something- Cooling, HIXMcoil, 3rd mag(do i need?), Daily. Can the BTL take 4KW daily? I know Meade does it but is it still safe in Fi's eyes? And i would like a discussion on the cooling option. It states not to get it if used for SPL. Can someone please define what specifi…

I am truly worried about this since I am eager to get a X10 or X12 and it has to deal with power issues. I have an Arc Audio XXD 2080 and it des 240 x 1 @ 4 ohms when bridged. I truly have been wanting to get a Fi Audio sub since three years ago but would like to know would the amp and the X10 or X12 would work together hand in hand or would it be a total flop?

Trying to figure out how to get the 3rd magnet option on the BTL.... I want to say I remember seeing it on their website as an option in the past --- has it become a standard? I only see the following options: Ohm configuration, p chamfer, cooling, hixm coil, daily or spl, induct heat ring, and the universal option. Thinking about getting a fully loaded BTL within the next month. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Also, looking to get the AQ3500 amp w/yellow top up front, alt upgrade, along with big 3 upgrade. I listen to a lot of chopped and screwed music, so I think this setup would be perfect. C and S music isn't clean anyway - just good bass - so i'm not …

Hello, This is my first time building a box. I would like to hear any thoughts you might have before I get to building. I just recently purchased 2x FI Q 12's dual 1's with cooling, and spider. I designed a box for a 2002 gmc envoy. These subs will be pushed by a Crescendo BC2000D. (May eventually upgrade to a 3500 or 2x 2000's). Box is 5.0 cu ft and is tuned around 32hz. Heres what I came up with. My main concern is if I did the port length correctly and if I calculated the bracing displacement correctly.

I have 2 loaded btl 12s that Im going to be running a T4k on. I want to use aero ports but the only way that I can get enough port area is to go a bigger than the recommended 2.5ft3. I may have to go with something like 2.7-2.9ft3.....is this ok for daily usage? Or will it hurt the woofer? I see on the Fi site that u shouldnt go any higher than 3ft3. Id be below that but they say 2.5ft3 on this site?

What can a SSD take on a burp which is normally 3 secs at most... I am looking to run a pair of Saz-1500d's strapped on my ssds and would like to know how many watts can they take on a burp.... I was thinking probably 1600 watts per sub but would like to know before hand..

Hey guys I was hopeing to get help on designing a box for my little brothers geo metro... He is over seas in the army and should be back in a few weeks so i decided i wanted to surprise him.. All I know is he doesnt want a wall built in the car (he likes his back window), So the max dimensions i have are 35" wide x 36" long x 20" tall. I have a mtx 1501d amp to push the beast so far and also dual alternators and 2 sp1000 stinger batteries. Any help would be very appeciated thank you.. also i could even try to send some money if someone did design it but no guarantees on that we all know how tight money is... Thanks Gator

Still need tinsel leads and a dust cap for an 18 BTL, older style

Hello guys! I am new to the forum, but recently got back into the swing of car audio. After 10 years of not having any bass I'm ready for my new build. Right now I have a basic setup in my 2011 Toyota Corolla S Kenwood KDC-X596 H/U Alpine Type R SPR-60C Components up front Alpine Type R SPR-69 6x9's in the back Hifonics GLX 100.4 running mids and highs Hifonics X1000.1 running the sub I'm going to pick up an SSD 12'' and run it ported. My question is this..... I have worked a lot trying to figure out the appropriate dimension in order to obtain 2.25 cu ft of internal space after sub and port displacement tuned to 33Hz. Each program gives me a little bit different nu…

I have always done sealed boxes before and I ordered a 10 inch dual 2 ohm bl and am struggling with the port dimensions. Different programs I use come up with different numbers. The recommended dimensions are 1.2 cuft with 15 inches of port. I am assuming thats 15 square inches. I have the room for width of 16 inches wide by 13 inches tall and 19 inches deep outside dimensions. Which according to my calculations using 3/4 inch wood is 1.97 cuft. But I only need 1.2 cuft. The 13 inches is the most important measurement. I don't want to go higher or lower than that. The depth of 19 inches is what I want to shrink the most and I only want to go 15 inches wide at the n…

Well yeh just like the title says i need some tinsels for a d1 Fully loaded BTL. I emailed a few days ago and but never got a reply. How much would they be shipped to 33027 Fl by sunday if possible

i've sent a couple of emails but have gotten no reply so i figured i'd just make a thread about it. I'm going to need a recone for a loaded universal btl 12. also i've heard a little bit about tinsel slap problems. If subsonics are kept under control is it really a problem? Any possible performance difference between the d2 vs d1, amplification held aside? If not then d1 is my preference.