Fi Technical

For some reason outside of my power my 08 Bl with cooling caught fire. I was on my way home from work about an hour and a half ago, i smelt something kinda like burning leaves so I turned the radio off and pulled over and opened the hatch of my jimmy and the sub was on fire. I could see this bcuz there is aplexiglass window on the front of my box... I have no idea how or why it did this, it was on fire at the spider btw. The amp wasn't warm nor the wires... The amp isa sundown saz 1500d. 0g wire, 12g speaker wire. Itwas only playing for about 5 min when it all happened. I think the warrenty is still in effect, but I'm not sure if that is even covered. The gains are all se…

Hey guys, I m back.. I was here like a month or two ago.. I was collecting the informations I need for my new set up.. Then finally, I got the set up done.. I have a 15" Fi Q D2, Ported box tuned at 26hz, JBL GTO 1201.1 II amplifier.. PICS: BUT I have a problem here.. I grabbed a deal for the box and sub combo when I needed a Q that is D1 not D2.. But the sub I got is D2.. So I am stuck with 4 ohm load on the sub since JBL amp is 2 ohm or 4 ohm stable only.. It cannot go lower than 2 ohm.. At 4 ohm(which it is running on right now) load, it is only 787 watts RMS.. If it is at 2 ohm load, it would be 1200 watts rms.. It already sounds sweet at 787 watts rms.. i can…

I was looking at the video on the Technical forum and it said everything is explained on the Technical forum in great detail, but I didn't see anything except that video and I didn't want to skim through and try to find where they mention High Qts. Basically, I have a truck and I can fit 6" mounting depth subwoofers in my sealed box. The Fi SSD 10 already requires the low space of .2-.6 cubes so what exactly does the High Qts option do?

So i had 2 of these sealed and decided on going one ported. I had the other in my room for about a month, before selling it to my brother. He got through with the enclosure built, and put the sub in but there was no sound. Its a dual 1 ohm so it is wired to 2 ohms (triple checked it). When we hook up either side, the sub will play, but when wired to 2 ohms there is no sound. Tried the sub in another car and the exact same thing happens. Any suggestions on what is going on?

So I'm chosing to buy a FI BL18. Just two things I would like a bit of help on. First should I buy the FI BL18? I'm wanting a 18" sub, but I don't know how well this runs, I want to know from other peoples experience of how well this subwoofer is. Also i'm aiming for LSQ partly but don't want the rattling and horrible distorted bass sound. My friend is running a 7 year old sub (of course its old so makes up most of the problem) and it sounds pretty bad when he turns it up. I'm going to install this sub into my Chevy Tahoe in back behind the seat. Tell me if I should change anything but i'm deciding to do this. Dual 1 or Dual 2? (Be honest I don't know what the heck which …

-How many spiders are there in the N2? -Can we have super Gauss in the N2 or is it not required/superseded no longer relevant? What are the benefits and is it worth it? -AA SMD is designed by FI right...price and power handling aside which is a better driver for loud daily? Unfortunately I live on the other side of the world and have no way to listen to either of these. Thanks

Alright, I'm sure you've read it before and probably been through it; someone bought a setup and loved it but is no longer enough for them. That is also me at the moment and that is what this is about. What I have: 2010 Chevy Malibu 2 12" fully loaded Fi Q 12s in a sealed enclosure approx. 3 c.f. (built for sealed because of lack of trunk space for ported box) no upgraded alternator (reason: not easily accessible and no one pimps these malibus, so they don't make those componenets and when they do, they're expensive) 2400 Kinetik battery in trunk bigger battery upfront (duralast platinum/gold whichever they said was better, lol) Hifonics Brutus BRZ-2400 0 gauge and big …

alright im dead set on the 12" SSD and then i heard this for a review... "i hated my ssd's my two 10 d6's will beat the piss out of them all day long(the ssd's were 12's). I've had a D6 12 as well and it sounded better than the ssd's. I will never buy and FI product again. One of my woofers was DOA when I get it. Then I had to pay to send it back then pay for the repairs and to ship it back. Then the woofer worked for like 2 weeks and the same problem happened AGAIN! So I threw them away. I was never impressed by the subs they were just mediocre. They sounded alright but there was some notes they didn't get and they didn't dig very low at all. I had about 750 going to ea…

preordered 3500d. now ordering subs i want bass,sq is a plus but i want more spl. i am going a sealed enclosure in a lexus gs400 i dont know the cu/ft. what would be better 3 fi q 12 or 4 ssd 12. and are the q the same displacement as the ssd, because then i could maybe do 4 instead of 3. then i would know the answer to my question. the 3 q would be dual 2 ohm at 1.34 ohms and the 4 ssd dual 2 ohm woulds get down to 1 ohm. plus it's hard to decide because i dont know the final rms of the amp.

Hey all, I've got two 12" SSD's coming in the next few days and I decided to get a headstart on building my box. I've raped the search tool and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. If anyone has some spare time and wouldn't mind doing a fellow enthusiast a HUGE favor, it wouldn't go unnoticed. I'm hoping to get a cutsheet for 2 12" SSD's (ported) for my 2008 Mazda 6 sedan. Here's the preferred specifications. W: 42" (MAX) H: 16" (MAX) D1: 21" preferred D2: 16" preferred Tuned from 30-33hz I'm thinking it'd be cool to have the subs forward-firing at an angle with the seats. Then I could just mount my amp on the trunk side. The angle would take much more advantage o…

will a lanzar 4000 watt 2 channel amp (2 x 1650 rms at 2 ohms) blow these 2 Fi BL 15" subvwoofers with the cooling and flatwind options and the daily option at 2 ohms Basically can these subs handle that much power??????

Okay, so I guess the way the cooling is designed or the motor or something is causing loud air noise around the motor that is very audiable when the thing is invert mounted. There should be some kinda warning about this, as my whole install is based around the idea of an inverted driver. fml.

hi, i am planning a new system and i have decided to give FI subs a try. so my question is how much RMS can a 15" Q really handle with the cooling, spider, and i ring heat coil? i was looking to throw 2200 rms at it. i also looked at the BL but its out of my price range and i want SQ. my last system consisted of 2 15L7s that i had on 3200 rms. they were rated at 750 rms each but were taking more than double in a 10 cube ported box, so im thinking these Q's can handle what i have in store for them. the sub will be going in a trunk of a crown vic. i know that fi subs are underrated but i dont know much. the amp will most likely be an aq2200d. as far as electrical goes i ha…

2 12" Fi Q subs in sealed separate 1.2 cu ft chambers powered by an AudioQue AQ2200 amp. On the amp I've got to turn the gain and bass boost all the way up and on the head unit the subwoofer and bass levels to the max just to hear the subs, and barely at that. Something is wrong here, and I need some help figuring out what it is. I've double checked, redone, and double checked all the wiring, and it is correct. The subs are 1 ohm DVC, and measured at the amp, is exactly a 1 ohm load. The polarity is not reversed anywhere. Tested the DC power at both the battery and the amp to see they are the same. Tested for a ground loop to find none. I'm at a loss as to what to look …

can one of the fi owners please respond. i have 4 kicker cvx 15's (1000 watt rms). i have about 13 cubic feet of airspace. can any of ur subs outperform my current setup.i have 2 hifonics brutus (2000 watt 1 ohm). i want it to be more rumble inside the car. if so please tell me what. if not please tell me so i can keep it moving. i am kinda tired of this email stuff. i need a number or something cause i send u guys a 3 paragraph question they send u a 3 word response. come on slim. look i just need some direction. i am just tryna accept the fact that a lot of these guys are jumping out there and saying all types of stuff about fi. well can i get some direction from the ow…

Hey everyone I made a similar thread some time ago, but it seems to have died and my question today is a bit different. I know it is not designed for it, but I am determined to try my Q12 in a ported box. If it doesnt sound good, I can always put it back in my sealed box. Anyway, since I do have a high QTS version, should any of the suggested box parameters be changed? Say a smaller/larger enclosure or a higher/lower tuning frequency? I should be able to go up to 2.1-2.3 cu.ft after the sub's displacement. And I was planning on tuning to 32hz as that's whats recommended. Also, would polyfill be beneficial, or not? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Enclosure to Fi Audio Q10 Ported Spec's - 1.2 cu.ft. @ 33Hz Thanks to the folks at Fi Audio Tech Support for providing the dimensional spec's for the subwoofer, subwoofer has just enough clearance for mounting depth.

ok i sent my sub woofer to get fixed with this information.... Fi Car Audio Attn: Repair Service 5450 Cameron St #104 Las Vegas NV 89118 Ive sent about 3 messages to fi and still nothing i got a email by the ups saying my shipment made it to its destination to get fixed but still no email from fi or somebody to let me know from the company that they have it or any info on getting my 15'' BTL fixed. With me not getting a email from fi im not sure who has my sub or after it made it what has happened to it. Ive been patient and all i wanna do is pay for them to fix my sub. Has anyone here gone through the same thing if so how long did you have to wait for feedback after you…

I just ordered 3 SP4 15's and was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on enclosure size, tuning and square inches of port for it to hammer. They are going in my SUV and I will power them with 3 Rockford Fosgate 2500bdcp amps. My dimensions are 46W x 38D x 23H. I have no wiggle room for width but for depth and a little higher I do.

I have a 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe and I am going to put a Fi BL 18" in it. It will be powered with a Rockford Fosgate T10001bd amp and a Kinetik battery. Just ordered it yesterday I have a general idea of the specs on my box in order to fit the 5-10 cubic feet. It will be about 9 cubes by the time everything is displaced. The only problem since I am new to car audio and this is my first system is what are the dimensions of the port? The box will be W 45" x H 20" x D 20" with 3/4" MDF. I want to tune the box to 32Hz. Any help will be appreciated. -Kasey

hey guys, i bought an fi btl 18" sub yesterday its my first big sub and im still learning so take it easy on me anyway, the guy i bought it from gave me the box with it as well (looks to be about 6 cubes) and there was a piece of mdf covering half of the port he mentioned something about it being there to build more pressure and im not sure what effect this would have anyway, in my opinion all it could possibly do is fuck the sub up somehow by making it move in a wa its not meant to in that box can i get any opinions on it? let me know why it could be good or bad -Stephen

I am 19 I have 2 sp4's on the way. I have 2 ampere 3800's. Everything going in a 98 dodge ram 1500 ext cab. I'm wanting at least 154-56db to the ear. Would 2 in a 4th order do the job or would 3 be better? I'm not trying to get 4 because I want to save money.

So I know these Fi speakers can take a beating, but I had my 18" SSD playing for maybe an hour at pretty high volume with some really heavy bass and I noticed a burning smell coming from it. The dustcap was pretty warm. I know its the voice coils, but I play at the same volume all the time and have never had this problem. Is it just because of the extended usage ? I know its not good when it happens. I'm running it off an Onkyo HT-S3100 5.1 receiver. I don't think its clipping, as the receiver would shut off. The sub is fine when not played for extended periods though. Should I be worried ?

The other nite we were changin the box my fi's are in and the drill slipped and went through the rubber on the subwoofer.. He said if we put rtv silicone on the inside and outside of the cut it would be ok but Im not sure any help would be good

After first seeing the specs on the website, I noticed there are a few necessary specs not included. #1: I noticed the xmax, but nowhere did I see the xlim. #2: Recommended type of port(s)? (shape/size/depth) If I list the specs of my vehicle, maybe someone can get an idea and throw me some info. If any other info is needed, just ask. 1995 GMC Sierra LT ext cab 6.5ft bed. Rear seat bottom and back will be removed. .75" MDF enclosure with internal dimensions of 45"W x 30"H x 25"D. Subs will be up-firing. Should ports be front, rear, up or side firing? Where should the ports be located in terms of speaker location, between subs, at corners, etc? I will be aiming for…