Fi Technical

How would having an enclosure bigger than the recommended box volume affect my system. I am planning on ordering a 12" SSD w/ copper coil. I am trying to save money on this system which isn't something I'm used to since I usually go all out. I was thinking of buying an already made enclosure to cut down on costs. I'd like to know how this would affect the sub's performance. Here's the box I was looking at: http://sonicelectronix.com/item_7521_Sonic...Box-+1SA12.html Thanks!

Went with 10" bl, cooled, RF t10001bd at 1 ohm, 1cf ported box, (which is tuned a little high, might take apart and add an L to the port to lengthen it and drop tuning a bit). Just bought a 200amp alt. 1/0 wire all around, 4awg on alt. Was wondering if i should go for a cap, read that independent testing puts this amp closer to 1500watts at 1 ohm and want plenty of aux power, for starting the car and what not. Also should I stuff the box? Been a while since i had bass in the car, but then nit was just a thrown together mismatch system with no regard to resistance on the amp or any other important factor for that matter..wanna do it right this time. Any advice is appreciat…

hey all im really sold on getting a bl 15 for my car. i was just wondering how much it will cost to get it shipped to montreal since it states on the fi site that shipping only free in the states. im also wondering if the flatwind coil is good to get if i plan to use the sub daily (will it give much better sound).

Wondering on box size for strict SPL setup. Would it be best to use the 3 or 5 cubic foot box or some other size. Tuning will be 54 hz. Not sure on port size yet but thinking 150" per sub if I use the 5 cubic foot size and 90 on the 3 cubic foot size. Will be running 2 Sundown Audio SAZ-3000D to each sub off a 16 volt system. Willing to listen to suggestions.

Hi, i recently bought a recone kit for my Btl. It was a 12" and I am upgrading to an 18". I cut the surround and spider to remove the cone. Now, i see the screws holding the basket to the motor. Simple, right? Well i cant get the screws to break from the motor. They were soldered on to the metal. I broke the solder with a screwdriver, and now i'm left with six screws that WILL NOT budge. I really put some power behind one screwdriver and the screw started to strip on the top. Any ideas?

I broke my terminal loose pulling the sub out of its box, I tried crazy gluing it back but that aint working, My question is, whats the bolt for on the terminal, the terminal is not screwed on, it looks as if it was just glued on over top of the screw instead of screwed down. Now, I cant get the terminal flush with the screw head to even glue it down properly, what would you guys suggest? Right now, the terminal is just flopping around, I know that cant be good

ok so what im gunna do is put a single 12" BL into my f150....i have a bench seat in the rear so im gunna fold the short side, which is behind the passenger, and put the sub box there....i have approximately, 18" wide 16" deep and about 20" in height...the height is flexible tho....i have a kicker zx1500.1....can any one please help me design a box? thank you

Can anyone help me with a link or can someone help me design a tuned enclosere for a single Fi BL 15 with a max height of 17 inches? and a max width 36 inches? my first box for my first system.

Alright, vehicle is a 99' infiniti i30, 4 door sedan, I have two 15" Q's on a crunch 3000d-pro. The enclosure is 7.2 cuft after port, and displacement, tuned to 32.5hz. It gets pretty loud, but kind of a empty not real full sounding bass. The enclosure is built into the trunk with the woofers mounted invertedly, so that the magnets are pointed toward the back of the backseat. the port is firing out of the top of the box through a hole in the rear deck. It sounds like there is a lot of cancellation, and when I open the trunk and crank the system it sounds way better and hits the lows way better. I understand this is some sort of phase issue I believe, and have had o…

is the mt dvc 1.4 copper coil available through u guys here at Fi?

ok so the set up would be 3 12" BTL's (fully loaded) and 3 sundown 3000d's..I'm lookin for some basic dimensions for an encloser and some places online that can do a quality build.Also,any suggestions on port Fq. would be appreciated..It's gonna be a daily driver in a '96 impala trunk so i have room to play with.Thanks!

does anyone know a phone number or something to contact fi about a question? ive tried emailing and it didn't work, they ignored me. i ordered a fi q 18" about a month and half ago and i noticed it had a black basket instead of gray, then i ordered another one a couple weeks ago and it had the gray basket and many differences. and just over a week of having the newest one, there is a popping noise coming from the sub as if its starting to go bad already. any comments just let me know....thanks.

I'm just curious as to why the Universal option isn't on the subs by default? It doesn't cost any extra money, yet i do not see any disadvantages of having it done to a sub even if you do not want it. So... is there any disadvantage of having it even if someone doesn't want it?

Will somebody please explain to me where the length of the port is. In order for my box to be tuned to 32Hz it has to be 22.5" long but which piece of the box is it? is it C or B?

how would someone apply to work at the FI build house? just curious. going to college for machining and i really want to stick with car audio industry as a machinist.

I'm putting a BL 18" just with just the P chamfer in my van ill be running 1200 rms too it. the room i got is 49"w 41"L 41"H. i really need too see like a print out. too look at while i'm making it. i want it too hit low. and i know nothing about tunning so if you could explain that too that would be nice. alot of people were talking about haveing it 7 cubic feet and tuned too 33hz would that be a good setup for the box? thank you.

Does any one know what the QTS becomes on the option of raising the QTS? I plan on getting a pair for sealed, but want to know what the QTS are. Also Plan to run a 1500 rms to each, should i get a extra spider? just dont want to lose the low end making it to stiff in a sealed box. input would be greatly appreciated.

My space is 39" wide and I can go 20" tall. How deep do I need to make the box (and how long AND wide does my slot port need to be) to have a net volume of 4-4.5cuft and a daily tuning of 30-33hz? Power will come from 2 sundown saz1500's strapped at 2ohm. Thanks

i only have about 2.0 to 2.2 cubic foot to work with before sub displacement and port displacement. i know the 12 calls for 1.8 to 2.5 before displacement so i was wondering if it would be better for me to run 2 10's sealed and be more efficient instead of trying to squeeze in the 12 ported edit: sorry i hate this computer i meant 2 10 sealed or 1 12 ported sorry . . .

the dimensions of the room i have are 49"w 41"L 41"H. i was wondering if someone could give me a cut out of a box that will hit lows really good and move alot of air thankyou.

I'm thinking of buying a FI Q to put in a sealed box in my spare tire well. The dimensions I have to work with are 24"(width)x26"(Depth)x10"(height). I'm a complete noob when it comes to building boxes but want to try to do this one. How do I figure out if I can make a box that will work with the FI Q with those dimensions and what size to make it etc?

I know to pilot my screws, but the problem is i'm using 1 front baffle for the sub, and maybe i'm wrong, but i just dont see 3/4" screw holding that for that long. am i wrong or am i supposed to use a different kind of screw?

So I got a 12" Q last week and I LOVE it but my sub cuts out or has alot of background noise and i hooked it directly up to the amp and it plays fine and I am figuring that its the speaker terminal because when i put my finger on the negative it starts to play but when I take my finger off it stops? and In addition the - wire looks charred on the inside connecting to the terminal so my main question is has anyone else had this problem and what would be a good solution?

hey there guys i am looking for a box design. i need it between 4.5 and 5 cubes. either sub in center or on side. i want it to have interchangeable ports with tuning at 32, 38, 44 if its possible. i have money if anyone of you guys on here can design me a box for my 15" btl that would be great. i will get my max measurements up later today.

im running 2 fully loaded 15" btl's D2 of of 2 ia 20.1's. each amp is seeing a 1 ohm load and it doesnt seem as loud as it should be or as loud as what i was expecting. my box is 9 cubes after displacement, and is tuned to right about 34 hz. im wondering if my port area is to large, im running right now with 157.5 in^2 of port area and used 12 in^2 per cubic foot when designing it. box is 12.73 cubes before displacement. this is in an extended cab 06 silverado and it pounds the lows dont get me wrong, but i expected it to be louder then what it is. i can always make a port plug but have never done one and am wondering if i do need one, what would would you recommend me to…