Subwoofers / Speakers

Nope.

I disconnected my speakers and was listening to my sub by itself and I noticed that I could slightly hear some words. Everything sounds good and you cant hear it when the speakers are connected so I was wondering if this is normal.Thanks in advance for any help.

Was honestly curious how the xcons line up with the fi q's. I always hear great things about both, was just looking for input on how they compare from someone who knows more than me. Which I imagine is about anyone here. Thanks in advance!

I'm all new to this car audio stuff so I'm a little lost. I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee and i bought new speakers for my front and rear doors. my fronts are 6x9 Boss speakers and my rears are 6.5 Boss speakers. I wanted it to be louder and not to sound like crap when i turn up the bass and treble. It now sounds good except it's the same volume limit as the stock speakers. The rear ones are 400w a piece and the fronts are 350w a piece. Shouldn't the volume be able to go a lot louder than my stock ones? is this because I have a stock head unit? Should i get an amp? Thanx.

I want sql, i want subs that are tight as can be but still hit you in your chest and get loud. My atlas 15s are loud but just not quite loud enough, my bro still thinks his audiobahns were better, so i need louder, but still tight bass. here's what i'm considering, feel free to suggest other subs but keep them 15s, keep them round, and keep them non-mainstream, if a 15 year old will know what it is, i don't want it the top of the list is the ones i'm leaning towards, only 3 in the list as of now though 1. Stereo Integrity Mag 2. Soundsplinter LMT 3. Ascendant Audio Avalanche -maybe should be in 2nd i've heard great things about the mags, the soundspliter seems t…

I have my PG Tantrum 1200.1 on my 15 D2 and I am not getting much movement out of my sub at levels of 20 and lower on my Alpine HU. once I push it past the 20 mark it starts moving, it moves an insane amount at 25. Anyone have any ideas why? maybe my elec system not giving the amp enough power? I do need a yellow top bad, and possibly a new alt. I have the PG 1200.1 which is 1507 watts by the BS and a PPI PC2150 which is 300 watts.

I'm Currently doing a rebuild for 2015 and I'm looking into upgrading my front stage to a 3 Way component set and just wondering if anyone would have any recommendations around the $500-700 maybe a little more if its well worth it so far my 2 choices are the CDT Audio HD-642 and the Hertz HSK 163 Hi Energy Line. But im open to suggestions if you think there is better out there for the price Links to the two 3 way setups I'm talking about below: http://www.wooferset...t-speakers.aspx http://www.wooferset...ent-system.aspx any help will be appreciated guys

Hey guys, hoping to get some help or suggestions here, but I'll just introduce myself a little first. I've been reading this forum for a long time though I have not really posted much, and I've basically used it ever since I did my first system about 4 years ago. Like I said, I've been in to car audio for a while, I've done 4 different of my own installs in that time, and have done and helped with many of my mates installs as well, so though I have lots to learn still, I have a fair bit of experience. I live in Australia, so our set-up here is a bit different in terms of brand availability and what we can listen to at shops etc. So, on to the problem. I recently bought …

I just installed the ctx65cs component set running of an old Memphis amp. They are seeing 55rms and I am not happy with the sound. Tweeters sound muddy whenever the bass hits, and the mids are severely lacking. I've tried everything on the amps adjustments and every level position for the tweeters, -3, 0, +3. The only way they can sound good is with the gain turned down to where they can't keep up with my subwoofer. Before, I ran infinity reference 6x8s and they had more bass, clearer highs, kept up with the subwoofer, and sounded much better than these. And they were running off stock head unit power. I tried bridging them and they sounded the same. What am I doi…

Let me start by saying that in no way, am I bashing this sub. It is god like compared to the mainstream brands I have always run in the past. My current system is 1 12" Fi BL w/ cooling on a Sundown SAZ 1500.v3. The box is right from the cut sheet on this forum, posted by ndmstang 2.4 cu. ft. @ 32 hz. I think. 1/0 ga. big 3 with Shuriken bt-80 in the trunk, stock alt. Sound deadning throughout. 2004 ford focus. I think I overshot my goals a little. During an audio show at the local shop, I hit 131.4 @ 36hz. Doing demos for people with Dubstep, I always hear about their vision blurring and noses itching. "WOW look at your car shake!" On that end of the spectrum I could …

So i just got my wife 4 kicker cvr15's and i was calculating a box and holy crap 16cu ft!!!! At least!!! And kicker says that i should tune my box at 28hz??? Someone please help me out with a box...

i currently have a 12" rlp sealed getting 600 watts, but it just isn't quite loud enough. I found about three other alternatives but I'm not sure what is the best choice, whatever I get, I would get a new amp to properly power it. Choice 1: a 15" rlp Choice 2: TWO 12" Image Dynamics ebay woofers- http://cgi.ebay.com/Image-Dynamics-OEM-12-...1QQcmdZViewItem Choice 3: THREE 10" AA Assassin subs - http://www.ascendantaudio.com/assassin10specs.html Either choice sounds fun, but my overall goal is to be loud while still sounding good (i listen mainly to rock, so i like nice tight accurate punchy bass)

So I'm trying this whole active thing out with drivers I had laying around. I was actually pretty impressed how the random drivers sounded so I figured I could spend some money on stuff. But before I purchase, I keep seeing people saying that to make a certain driver sound good it needs a "notch filter" to smooth out the response. I researched and now I know exactly what it means, but I don't want to build one (mostly because I have no clue how to do that) so I was thinking...and I realized that they're using the notch filters for the same thing we use an EQ for in a car...right? I can smooth out the response pretty well (or I can pony up and buy equipment that can) elect…

Hey guys first time post, but def. not new to the car audio thing. This is the first time I have used FI products and I was wondering if it is normal to smell just a little coil when the sub in new (mine has only like 1 week of use on it). Im pushing it with a Elemental Designs Nine.1 its underrated at 1200wrms @ 12.5 vdc no clipped signal I checked with the o scope at college im gettin a good clean 7.3 volts from the preouts. I want to push about 1500wrms to it but im gun shy with the coil thing...can she take more or should I just get one more to feed my 30htz @ 140db addiction??

I recently purchased a pioneer double din touch screen head unit for my system which works pretty damn good. I have type r coaxial speakers running my interior speakers strapped to a hifonics 400 watt amplifier. For the subs I am running 2 12 inch pioneer pro series subs strapped to an hifionics 2000 watt mono block amp. I am running straight auxiliary inputs from the back of the head unit because i simply use 2 amps. All of a sudden today everything put out nothing but static. I disconnected it because I could not find out what the issue was and this is the second time it has happened. It happened with my previous pioneer head unit which was a single din flip face …

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Hi everyone. I currently have two 12 mags in a sealed box, but I wanted to try ported just for fun. My friend is selling a 3.6 cf box tuned to 30 hz without any chambers for cheap. IS this bad for a pair of magnums, or does it sound reasonable? I know that the only way to find out is to actually hook it up and listen to it, but I just want some opinions before I actually buy the box. It was originally made for a pair of JL audio subs by Tweeter. Thanks guys.

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found over 15 reviews on these on sonic electronix, and they were all rated a 5 star. looking for members feedback on these. i did have my eyes on JBL gto series, but NVX looks worth trying.

What are these worth anymore gentlemen? These are mine that came with the truck I bought.. the model99 zed amps above have already been sold... trying to sell the subs now.

I have been following the V3s for a while & have emailed 2 different emails a few times. Anyone know how to preorder them or when they are coming out? I may end up going with the AB XFLs instead

Found them and they look pretty good compared to my sa12s. Reading up on them they seem to hit the low lows very well. How would they compare to my sa12s? 35hz 1.75 cubes and 750rms each. And are they made in USA?

Would odd numbers sound better than even numbers or louder 1 vs 2 3 vs 4 5 vs 6 I no cone area plays apart but if all was on the same amp...what would the out come be.

I want to have a port that is out side of my box but I also want a port that runs along the contours of the side of my hatch. This will make for a port that is shaped like "~". Is this a problem so long as I make sure that the port is exacly "x" cubic inchs? What sort of problems could I encounter? Thanks Jerry