Subwoofers / Speakers

i have a new project vehicle that already had some work put into it by previous owner and i am in need of new highs for it. it is a 97 civic 4-door. car came with jl tr 600 coax in the doors but they are pretty much shot. i havent payed much attention to car audio for the last couple years so i am pretty out of date with the latest equip. looking for something i can pretty much drop in without a ton of fab work (at least for the mids). looking to keep it between $100-150 but will go up to $200 if justifiable. need it to be well balanced musically. i listen to country, r&b, rock, hip-hop, talk radio......just depends on the mood i am in at the time. the equip i have …

I have a set of PPI 356CS components up front and they sound wonderful, but after tuning my amp with my DD-1 I found that the tweets just aren't capable of handling the power i'm giving them. I'm running them off a CDT Audio SQ4100 at 4 x 100....the comps are rated at 120rms per side so i'm not able to turn them up as loud as I should be able before the tweets just start screaming and sounding nasty so I want to upgrade the tweets with something that'll fit into the existing hole in my door panel (am willing to do a little mods to get it to fit if needed). So I'd like a tweet that can handle at least 90rms and isn't very deep, I only have about 1.5" clearance back there. …

i read the sticky on this already, but can you use speaker wire instead? and how do you remove the push terminals and make the connection style of the pos and neg leads like the AQ or DD's?

Ive alwased had a pair of 12w6 and all my friends had 12w6. It is an amazing sub but i want something different. Has anyone have any experience with 12w6v2 and the new magnums? I want to switch to magnums but dont know if its a good choice. What are the pros and cons and reliability?

has anyone heard of titan subwoofers..BESIDES the home audio titan subs..

I know it was mentioned in the "mag 15 pored for SQ" topic but I thought it deserved its own thread. Has anyone tried this or does anyone know of a good tutorial to make a transmission line box? Beyond being fairly large are there any other drawbacks to using them in a car?

Almost done. Its going in a Durango. The first TLine I've designed and built myself.

A buddy of mine still has the first system he bought a couple years ago consisting of 2 Kicker CVX 15s in a sealed box (the shop said they couldnt make a ported box with space they had, but I ran it on Torres an the box would have only had to be 2in taller to run a port which would put him at the top of his back seat.) He said he likes his 15s but he wants to be "louder" and hit the lows better. I told him I could build a ported box for his car, or we could upgrade subs for the new box. I have him looking at the XCON 18. He has a HIFONICS Brutus 2200. I figured at 1 ohm he would see 1700-1800 watts. Would 1 XCON 18 in 6 cube box at 34hz be as "loud" or "louder" than the 2…

I am purchasing either of these pairs of 12s this weekend. Either set will be powered by a JBL GTO 1200.1 II amp wired to do 700 watts 4 ohms. Either set will be in a Pound That Sound Double Kerf Flared ported enclosure. I looked at many pairs of 12s and narrowed it down to these 2. I want a setup that'll get loud and sound clean. I listen to mostly rap and bass and on ocassion some rock and metal. 2 SSA dcon 12's or 2 DC Sound Labs Level 2 12's

So, I'm currently using the time alignment feature on my prs80. Tweeters are on the pillars about eye level .The mids are in the doors , in the stock location . I was thinuking of adding a pair of hertz esk 165 in some qform kick panels . I would be wiring them parallel to the doors . Would time alignment be affected significant enought to cause a problem .?The kicks would be about 8 in farther away, and almost on axis .

Hello This is my amp: Phantom P900.4 Channels 4 ch. Class DRMS Power 4ω145 x 4RMS Power 2ω225 x 4RMS Power 4ω Bridged450 x 2RMS Front speakers: Power Handling 65W RMS/180W PEAK Impedance 4 ohm Frequency Response (±3dB in car) 55Hz-20kHz Sensitivity [1 watt (2.83v) at 1m] 90dB Subs i'm thinking of: Dayton Audio RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm Design by Seas 10" Sub woofer L26ROY (D1001-04D2SSA 8" or 10" or maybe 12" D2 Obsidian 12" D2 CDT HD-1200CF (I don't know a lot about this one) All I am interested in is sound quality and as small a enclosure as possible. Thanks for your time.

So here is my situation I have a Sundown 3500D in my car. It is a BMW 328i with factory everything. Im trying to jump on the sale and buy either an XCON or a ZCON. However, what is stopping me is the rated power. I plan on getting a single 12". It will, of course, be powered by the Sundown 3500D. Because it will be just one subwoofer (due to trunk space), I plan on getting a Dual 1ohm voice coil (so I can get a final load of 2ohms). My question is, should I proceed and get the XCON (which at 2ohm, will be fully powered @ 1750 RMS) or get the ZCON (which would be underpowered considering its rating is 2250 RMS and I would only be feeding it 1750 RMS). (the reason…

my friend just got a 15" memphis power reference sub in a q logic box, and i'm thinkin about tradin him all this for it...... 1. fultron crossover<---freebie 2. RF fused distro block<---freebie 3. Clarion apa4100 (25x4)<---freebie 4. RF 17' power wire w/fuse and all<---freebie 5. 2 or 3 scosche rca cables<---came in a walmart wiring kit ($25.00) 6. I told him i'd throw in some cash, i said just whatever he thinks after all this (shouldn't be more than around $20-$30) http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/de...?cat=&id=58&p=2 heres a link to it, in case u were wonderin what it was (doubt u were though) i've never heard them before, but being memphi…

now i've heard that tweeters are very tempermental. i've heard stories of them conestantly blowing due to WAY to much power.... now upon thinking you could just hook up a crossover and restrict the power? right? also with the current engineering of the 6.5's and 6x9's is it even worth it to put in 2 or even 4 tweeters? (two in the front pillars, two by backseat passangers head). also the V-MAX cerwin vega seem like a good deal for about 50$ you get the 2 tweets and a crossover or in that case is it better to go with a higher end tweet system (if one is needed at all) and spend the extra 40$ per pair? my current system (after getting some things) 2 alpine type S 6x9's in t…

Well, I posted the Uber for sale on CA.com and SD figuring it would get snatched up quick. I have a TON of interest, but the caliber of the interested parties is rather well, eh. I see now why Josh sold them the way he did. So, now I am stuck with a dilemma. I don't really want to use this in-car because of the worry of theft. Once gone, it cannot be replaced, but I really do NOT want to sell this to some idiot either. That will just ruin it.Actually, I really don't want to sell it at all. If the car was able to be garaged, there would be no problems. So, people of TeamSSAudio, I challenge you to help me decide what to do!! :4123357f3da0f6e125a54:

I am only posting this for observational reasons. F.i. SP4 18" Fully loaded 3,000rms - $564 plus shipping DC Audio Level 6m2 4,500rms - $1,200 MAP iirc SSA Evil 3,250rms - $799 Shipped B2 Audio XC 3,000rms - $1,650 Online Warehouse Tantric Sounds SHD 5,000rms - $735 plus shipping Crossfire XSv2 2,000rms - $1,299 plus shipping Sonic Electronix AA SMD 3,500rms - $899.99 plus shipping (v2 coming soon)

Subs http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5768387739&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5768244664&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5768370864&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5768302620&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5768085124&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5768008748&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5767952200&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5767936356&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5767220724&rd=1 hmmmm? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5767532244&rd=1 wonder whos these …

hey guys, right now i got the box build already, it's a 11.2 cube box sealed. I was using a bunch of left over wood. one IXL 18 is going to go into it. I could add (3) 4 inch ports and make it a 10.7-ish cube box tuned to 16hz, or I could keep it sealed. it's going to get about 900rms. what should i do? I haven't ordered the sub yet. If I was to do sealed, i thought i'd go with the high Qt. I'm just afraid the 10.7 cubes is too small for ported, or will it be ok? since sealed would be in such a big box, wouldn't the lows be comparable to the ported box? say in the 15-20hz? or not really?

i was thinking lately that mabye my box is to big and open? i have a 12 inch d2 in a 3.0 tuned to 28 now i am thinking something like a 2.0 tuned to 34 would be better for me. it really is deep bass heavy were only a few songs go. would a higher tuning and a smaller box be better?

ive got a 1991 Corolla SR5 (which is a 2 door car) it has a fairly small trunk but im sure its enough for 1 12 ported or 1 15 sealed... im planning on purchasing a new D2 soon and wasnt sure what i should get... ive been thinking and researching for 2 weeks and i know this is a GREAT sounding driver (heard a 12 sealed in a friends car) my only dilemma is can the 12 OR 15 take power from a us amps 1100T that puts out roughly 1100@ 12v? im not sure what the rms is at my running voltage (almost 14)

Hey, everyone. Im looking into getting either AA Mayhem 15 d2 or AA Havoc 18 d2 or d1 depending on how much power it can take daily. Amp is Hifonics BRZ2400.1D and I read that the Havocs have a power handling of 1250W rms. I wanna know if I can power the Havoc with the full 2400W or if I would need to wire to 2ohm for 1700W. Also, would either of these numbers be too much power for daily use? The car it is going in is a pontiac vibe and has about 24cuft of cargo area for the box so I dont think Ill have problems fitting the box in the car. But, Ive also read that certain setups are better for certain cars and idk how to tell since Im quite new at this. If anyone knows a p…

Old system: Some cheap Sony deck Infinity Kappa 5.25" components (2007) - KAPPA50.7CS Infinity Kappa 6x9" 3 way coax (2007) - KAPPA693.7I Infinity 10" sub - KAPPA PERFECT 10DVQ MTX Thunder564 - 4 channel MTX Thunder421D I will replace everything and all ready have: Alpine 9885 12" Fi BL - Dual2, Cooling, Flatwind, Daily Hifonics ZXi 6406 Hifonics BXi 1606D I was going to use the 4 chan. Hifonics to power the new Kappa 2008 speakers since they are 2ohm, but just decided how much I hate my current kappa's so want to do something else. Wanted to get: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4630 and http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3078 …

I have a dcon 12 and plan to run it bridged with a Boston acoustics gt-2125 at 400w rms will that be too much it's a daily driver so I'm not gonna be pushing crazy hard all the time I plan to keep gain low and bass not so high

Sorry in advance for the stupid questions... I've had my ICON 12" D2 for a week today after owning an Orion 12D for 15 years. I've been playing with it very much. (Review to follow) BUT Yesterday, I changed my speaker wire from 14AWG (regular speaker wire) to 10AWG (Oxygen Free) cable. My questions is: Could this make my sub play louder and harder? I'm running it a 1ohm driven by a Orion 1200D amp. I had to turn down my gain a little cause I found it louder than with the 14 gauge wire. Am I hallucinating? Can it be that much louder? Could it make a difference? I know I'm 46 Years old but c'mon! I changed the wire cause I read somewhere that running on 1 ohm you should use…

its sitting in a 1.7cu ft box tuned to around 32hz cant wait to wire it up tommorow morning!!! how long do i have to wait till it beds in?? woohoo! im so excited