Subwoofers / Speakers

What's up everyone. I've never had an American made subwoofer before and I'm interested in these two. I was locked set on the ssa zcons. Because of the tons of great reviews people give ssa,everyone races about the icons. I have a pair of re sxxv2 and the rms is similar to them, so I'm looking to upgrade so I was looking at the xcon's. But then I figured I might as well pay the extra $90 and get a zcon lol. Then after researching, ready to go through a it it, I notice the aa mayhem. The mayhem is $10 cheaper and 250watts more. And it looks crazy beefy. So I was thinking what's the deal with that. I got a taramps 5k to go on either or. And I'm trying to get L…

Which would hit harder the 15 w7 or 15 btl?

Ok. The proto should be here tomorrow. I am sending the reps pictures of the proto as soon as it comes in, but after I email the reps the pics I will post pics up here on this thread. The gist of the design of the new Mag's is basic: Newer, bigger motor. (triple stacked BIG magnets) New soft parts with lots of goodies (TBA) including Fibutron (protected/copyrighted) re-enforced cones. Higher power handling. The same SQ as before. And of course a few un-mentionables that can only be experienced by actually listening to the driver. Speaking of which... A 15" version might find its way to a few people, but no demo-ring will be initiated this time. Anyway, stay tuned to …

hello everyone i want to build a wall with 4 15s at 500 rms or 2 18s at 1000 rms i have a brutus 2000 watt i want some deep bass i have looked at the dcon 15s, hdc2.5 15s, the icon 18s, havoc 18s,if anyone has any expierence with these subs or have any others in mind throw your opinions in here

We did a install using kicker amps and subs and I got to reading the fine print on the box lol and I found that there amps were made in korea and I was wondering if there subs were made there too If so , I'll never buy another kicker product again

sorry pics are from my phone so the quality isnt that great.. i am planning to build the box this sunday (unless i have to work)

I am not a basshead but do like to crank it a little for fun. car currently has no system in it but I got all the stuff except the sub(s) . I was going to try IB on the rear deck but I just dont like whats out there so I have decided to try to get the most bass out of the least amount of space. after I saw some little DD 6inch subs at local shop I decided to try maybe 8's . would 1 SA-8 be enough? I think all the reviews show people with multiple SA-8 I really need more time to research all this stuff. I didnt realize these were that cheap

Hi guys new to this site, and I seem to be having a problem, I have 3 SA-8's been running them for a few months, love em, but the other day, I noticed one of them wasnt playing, and one of the other was moving very little compared to the other, so I figure a terminal connection had come loose, so I pull it out of the box to find that the tinsel leads are burned right through, on both subs near the center, , now when I depress the center I get no scratching whatsoever, and looking through the vents the coil looks prestine, and im very much wondering why this has happened, as I have an alpine pdx m-12 so the subs aee getting rated power, as well they are in a 2.1 ^3ft tuned…

Those who have heard the Hybrid Audio Clarus C61-2, how did they sound? Im referring to tonality, frequency extension (both high and low), general sound characteristics? I have read the review in CA&E and just looking for more personal opinions. It would be great if they could be compared against popular components like Dynaudio, Morel, Rainbow, Hertz, Focal, etc. Thanks ahead for any input

In the interest in trying to do as Sean (///M5) had told me I needed to do in my ON/OFF Axis thread I've been playing around with everything. I've been going through crossover and EQ settings on the components in the van, I've spent time playing with the components in the Jimmy (I can't drive it, may as well work on the audio, right?), and I've also been slowly buying up some other stuff to play with. I bought the Dayton RS180-4 mids from Ricksi, I bought a pair of Aura NS3 3", a pair of Fountek FE85 3", and a pair of FaitalPRO 3FE25 3" full rangers all for the sake of trying to train my ear and learn what problems and anomalies can and are occurring in the hunt to get …

I was sent a Mach 5 SPL 12 to test. I recieved it today and checked it out really well as far as build quality and design. My 1st impression when I opened the cardboard box was hmmmmmm, a crate. I didn't know they came in crates, which caught me off guard at first. While I like the way the crate looks, it really didn't protect the subwoofer any better than a box with foam padding. Upon opening the crate, the foam was in tact, but the wood was busted up pretty badly, however, the subwoofer sustained no damage as far as I can tell, so it did it's job. Now for the good things I noticed upon initial inspection: o Glue joints are flawless, there's no excess glue anywhere…

so i got a buddy that im trying to help out here, well he got a sa10 in a ported box and a hifonics 1200 watt amp and its loud and sounds good but when the volume goes up the sub sounds like it misses a beat but still plays but misses beats, something like booom booom booom ----- booom booom booom booom -------------booom and so on idk it is any help

I was bumping my SSD lastnight when it all of sudden stopped. Everything was sounding great and it just stopped. I looked at the connections to the box and everything was fine, then i pushed on the cone and it started working again. Still, it sounded just like it should (awesome lol) but then it stopped again. This morning i took it out of the box to check the connections to the sub and everything was as should be. When i would push the cone it would jump but stop working again. what the hell could this be?? also the tinsel leads, spiders, and everything else looks fine and in place.

Hey just seeing if anyone here has a little more experience here is my information on the set up have a 280amp alternator and good optima yellow top two runs of 1/0 and good grounds running a sundown zv5 15 d1 at 2 ohms on a svc6000 sundown amp. Have the sub sonic set to aproximate 30hz the box tuned to 32hz and low pass set to aproximate 75hz it is built to recommended specs 4.5 cubes after displacment and 68 cubic inches of Port have the gain set between 1/4 and 1/2 gain to take it easy for the first bit of playing and found its pushing but now distorted voltage drop is only 13.6 v lowest and find after a while has slight hot/wood smell the sub is just new and has about…

2 Mach 5 MJ18's on 600w's to the pair. I absolutely love these subs. I've rivaled systems with 4.5 times the power I have. This sound pretty good on some rock and classical too.

I've been looking at the Lanzar OPTI1233D series subwoofers. Specs: * Auto speakers feature custom tooled die-cast aluminum basket * Car subwoofers feature black laminated pulp cone * Oversized 2-inch foam surround * Dual 3-inch high temperature voice coil * Three (3) 125-ounce high density barium ferrite magnets Specifications: * Power: 3,000 watts RMS/6,000 watts peak * Frequency response: 50Hz to 300Hz * Impedance: Dual 1.2 ohms DVC * Efficiency: 87dB (1W/m) I thought Lanzar was usually pretty crappy but these actually look like non-mainstream woofers. if they are any good for 290 dollars they're not very bad.. if they actually handle …

Some of this was already posted on audiojunkies.com, but I'm posting it here because this is SI's forum and those who don't visit audiojunkies need to know about our news. All of our reps know this info, and they have kept their mouths shut because I asked them to. But now they can divulge anything they want (within reason). Ok, well I guess I should get the biggest thing out of the way and say that the new Mag is going to be 5.5" deep. I'm putting the motor inside a completely new basket on the new Mag's to reduce mounting depth to 5.5". I'm also using XBL^2 to get a super-flat BL curve and maintain our T/S's over the entire band of usable Xmax, which will make the d…

New truck, new system waiting... Bought a 2011 Ram Quad Cab truck and have everything together sitting in my living room and I am stuck on woofers. Currently sitting next to my couch is Image Dynamic XS-65 front's Image Dynmaic CTX-69 rears Alpine PDX-F6 150x4 @Fronts & Rears Alpine PDX-M12 1200x1 for woofers Atrend Dual 10" under the rear seat enclosure wire and cables... And now I am stuck... I was wanting to run two fi SSD10, copper coil, High QTS dual 2ohm coils in series and both woofers parallel for a total of 1200w RMS @ 2ohms. Or basically 600w per speaker. After contacting Fi, Nick replied saying that the 600w is a little under powered for these woofers. I d…

My friend is looking for some components and has about 175W @ 4 to play with and ofcourse wants to fill that void with speaks rated somewhere up there, but it seems to me there are more quality components in the sub 100W range. I noticed there are few passive component sets that are rated up over 100W RMS. Are there any high wattage components that are highly recomended? PS- Price range around 200-300

Hello guys, I wish you all a really happy new year ! So, I bought a mini dsp for Xmas, and now I want to use it. I will study the pluggin seriously to find and set the X-over points and the different slopes. I'll take care of T/A too. I will play later with the eq available . I see they're talking about caps to protect the tweeters. How many micro Farads do I need ? How to choose what to buy ? My current amplifier is an Incriminator 3.4. I want to keep it bridged to the Seas mids. 2 x 225 w rms @ 4 Ohms, so my 8 Ohms speakers will have enough power. I need a small amplifier for the tweeters, something on the cheap. Do you have ideas ? What amp would you get ?…

Hey eveybody ive been doing a little research and ive narrowed it down to these two subs and cant decide which to go with as if now for electrical i have a yellow top under the hood and the big 3 done and will be adding another battery in the back probably xs d3100 and for the amp im planning on going with cresendo 2250 and its all going in a 1988 suburban not looking for numbers just a good loud daily sub.

I haven't been able to audition these, but I've narrowed my front components down to this. Will be running a Sundown Audio 1100.5 and may drive them actively. It'll be in a 2002 Trans Am using the door structure where the tweeters are mounted low but aimed toward your ears. I understand the Focal sound is very bright and detailed and can be a bit harsh/tiring. However, my car is a bit loud and am afraid the Morel's flatter, warmer sound will be lost/overpowered by my subwoofer package, though I do prefer that sort of sound in general outside of the car. In addition, the Morels seem to have a better midrange/woofer that plays in the 50-3000hz range with a 2250 crosso…

So to start things off I have a 2000 Silverado ext. Cab. And would like to get away from the Coaxials I have now and put in two sets of Components. My plans are to put both sets of drivers in each one of the doors, two tweeters in the dash, and two tweeters in the back columns. I Personally am a Fan of Pioneer Premiers line of products when it comes to speakers. and this is what im looking to do. Front 6 3/4 Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS 50w rms 200max Back 5 1/4 Pioneer Premier TS-C520PRS 30w rms 150max For the most part I will be fading the music to the front speakers, the reason i am getting the back is for a little bit of a rear fill, and because I often have people in t…

i have a audiosystem helon 9000.1 amplifier and 5pcs stinger spv70.. what would be louder between smd18s 2pcs vs 4pcs 15"btl ufo.. not going for spl.. but for musicality only.. just for playing loud or just streetbass.. both system will be powered by the audiosystem helon9000.1.. any opinion?

As the title says what is the loudest sub for that price? does the L7's still have the crown?