Leaderboard

u are scaring yourself... If you keep and keep on researching, you're gonna want an enclosure so pristine that you are gonna want it made into a perfect sphere. It's not like if not everything is made just right that it's gonna be a failure. It's nice to have the features, don't get me wrong, but it's also not necessary all the time either.

They build to order. So when an order comes in, the driver is built. With all of the Fi drivers having options, they are all custom built to order.

personally I would go Icon for the low stuff...... you do not want a peaky sub for playing the rock bottom lows..this will bring on over excursion problems don't build the enclosure to large either or you will have problems with bottoming out and over exerting

You may want to jump up to the BL line for that kind of power. For the SSD - I would get the flatwound coil upgrade Here is the link for the SSD and options....

My apologies to Shizzzon for my outburst in the below (now locked for some reason?) post. I should have stated my own opinion and then offered reasons to back it up instead of a personal dig.

Copied from earlier post below by Shizzzon. quick answer- A cap will discharge EVERYTHING in it's bank when a rush of current is requested... A battery will compensate for the current requested when the alternator can't or the regulator doesn't react fast enough. If you could.. try and imagine your battery going completely dead then back to recharging every other few seconds?!?! You can't imagine that at all.. So, you got your alt, a big battery bank and a big ass cap- The cap will ALWAYS be getting drained and recharged all the time... What's recharging it? The alternator... When it's doing that, it's providing less power to the audio system which results in more voltage drop because the battery(ies) must compensate more... Now, when the batts are being used more... every split second when when there is no demand for current, the alt must charge the batts back up too!!! Keep playin music like that... your voltage will continue to drop and drop.... That's why caps are BAD! They were even tested in a comp setup for power draw... IF a cap can disperse current quicker.. it should provide the amp with more power... A 600w amp was tested.. using a cap suited for the amp, the amp only outputted an additional 3w! 3 WATTS! Wow.... at that rate... u can just give me your money if u plan on blowing it.. Caps are useless period. After reading the above post I have come to the conclusion that you don't know what you are talking about and I urge others to take your thoughts on this issue with a grain of salt. I'm not here to question the merits of batteries or caps, they really are completely different animals and have their own place in a car audio system. Just pointing out your flawed reasoning and obvious lack of knowledge regarding electronics/electricity.

The one off i45 is ok, 1960... not so good.

In a car you really do not have to follow the 10 x vas rule that is 'typical' for an IB install in a house/home theater. If you can physically mount a pair of 18's then go for it 550w is enough power to get one to full stroke @ 20Hz. You do not have to vent them or anything as far as to the outside...I haven't ran across a car that can fit a true IB manifold for a pair of 18's behind the back seat that is sealed off from the front wave. Also take note that if your goals are for something to be 'loud' an IB install is not for you. They blend great and sound great..but output is FAR less than another sub in a regular ported or even sealed enclosure. Of course you would have to bump power up as well if you were planning on running a pair...~1 kw would be ample. Some people buy IB woofers and simply do not know what they truly are and throw them in a box because they are cheap. I just want to make sure you know exactly what they are, they are not as overbuilt as the other woofers and they are more delicate.

After that mistake and not knowing what type of simple speakers you bought are you sure your ready for a 3000watt or more install. Slow down and take your time man or you will just end up wasting money and equipment (believe me I have been there).

No, the warden is 2500 rms and the Z is like 12k rms I believe. As far as specs go I would say no.