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Yes dual 1 ohm, and wire it like thisss

Take a moment to read this too:

Loudspeakers have a mind of their own. You send them a signal and they add their own twist to it. They keep on vibrating after the signal has stopped, due to inertia. That’s called “ringing” or “time smearing.” In other words, the speaker produces sound waves that are not part of the original signal. Suppose the incoming signal is a “tight” kick drum with a short attack and decay in its signal envelope. When the kick-drum signal stops, the speaker continues to vibrate. The cone bounces back and forth in its suspension. So that nice, snappy kick drum turns into a boomy throb. Fortunately, a power amplifi er can exert control over the loudspeaker and reduce ringing. Damping is the ability of a power amplifi er to control loudspeaker motion. It’s measured in Damping Factor, which is load impedance divided by amplifier output impedance. Let’s explain. If the speaker impedance is 8 ohms, and the amplifi er output impedance is 0.01 ohms, the damping factor is 800. That’s a simplication. Since the speaker impedance and amplifi er output impedance vary with frequency, so does the damping factor. Also, the impedance of the speaker cable affects damping. Thick cables (with low AWG) allow more damping than thin cables with (high AWG). The lower the amplifi er’s output impedance, the higher the damping factor, and the tighter the sound is. A damping factor of 1000 or greater is considered high. High damping factor equals tight bass. How It Works How does an amplifi er control speaker motion? When the loudspeaker cone vibrates, it acts like a microphone, generating a signal from its voice coil. This signal generated by the speaker is called back EMF (back Electro Motive Force). It creates a current which travels through the speaker cable back into the amplifi er output, then returns to the speaker. Since back EMF is in opposite polarity with the speaker’s motion, back EMF impedes or damps the speaker’s ringing. The smaller the amp’s output impedance, the greater is the effect of back EMF on the speaker’s motion. An amplifi er with low output impedance short-circuits the back EMF, so the back EMF drives the loudspeaker with a relatively strong current that works against the speaker’s motion. When the speaker cone moves out, the back EMF pulls the speaker in, and vice versa. In short, the loudspeaker damps itself through the amplifi er output circuitry. The lower the impedance of that output circuitry, the more the back EMF can control the speaker’s ringing. To prove it to yourself, take a woofer that is not connected to anything. Put your ear next to the cone and tap on it. You might hear a low-pitched “bongggg” if the speaker itself is poorly damped. Now short the speaker terminals and tap again. You should hear a tighter thump. Damping factor varies with frequency. As you might suspect, damping factor is most important at low frequencies, say 10 Hz to 400 Hz. Bottom Line...... Amps with a high effective Damping Factor deliver clean, tight kick drum and bass. .................................................................................. here is an article from Richard Clark on Damping Factor http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/stable/tech/A2412_Damping_Factor_Article.pdf

It is the amplifier's ability to control the cone movement of the speaker, such as starting and stopping. More technically it's the ratio between load impedance and source impedance of the amp. Really it isn't all that important and you probably couldn't tell a difference between any number. There's basically no difference above 50, and really not much even above 20.

Topic closed...I'll work through the thread tomorrow to determine the winner. Again those who have entered with one post will not be acknowledged. This is for the members here who contribute to the forum...as the rules say if you can see the for sale forum then you are in good shape to enter the contest. Thanks for playing!!

I would say yes that 90Ah will be ok for the 2-SAZ-2000D's but if you go to a competition or try to pound at full tilt for a while it may be a small factor (but it depends since music is dynamic). I would suggest upgrading your starting battery to give you that extra AH if worried about it or it becomes a problem since you can get those batteries cheap.

As long as it is within FI's recommendation then I dont see why not (I doubt they will tell people to build wrong boxes for their subwoofers).

yep if you can just try finding a way to fit it so you end up with around 4 cubes. also like it was said before make sure you take displacement into account. Yes, but we don't want people to feel they have to, the 3.25 cubes is plenty. well no matter what he builds he's definitely be happy with the xcon. great sub

Considering the dumb ass questions Zuki has asked all over the web I am very dubious of his designs. I realize it is all outsourced/copies, but between the asinine comments and the ridiculous ratings I have absolutely no interest. It doesn't mean you have to share my feelings, but it isn't the sort of person that I want to promote to be successful in this industry. As a completely opposite example, I noticed you have left off Mantz's products from your list which also should be included.

Don't trust the "clipping circuit" too much, but either way your ears will tell you when your subs are in trouble...if they get there. In a large low tuned box you could get them to really wallop and sound great doing it if you have some space.

I warned you about this before, you now get a 7 day vacation. When you come back follow the guidelines. Topic closed

That is why you can just read all the topics like yours! There must have been several ones on this forum! Take your time, and learn!!!

This topic is useless, PLEASE READ NOOB POSTING GUIDELINES AGAIN BEFORE POSTING (you steady keep making topics that arent informative and just comparing something that no one can give you a definite answer on). Its just a decision just pick one, stop making it hard on yourself.

Well aware of what goes on in the front lines...i've designed and implemented things for it...and have nothing but the utmost respect for the men and women that are there as I've talked to many of them to find out what it is they need and how they think...I have many friends that have been there and came back. Both Army and Marines. They actually use those things in that environment and they are there to make their lives easier and better there...on the front line where it really matters. Not for a speaker from a different entity that has nothing to do with those device(s). Again..sorry if you do not approve...it is what it is. We help in ways that nobody here could possibly fathom...it is much more then a 'discount'..far more then any other company in this industry does. Cheers!

You should have had those a LONG time ago... Email me your address and I will check on that tomorrow. Nick ' at ' ficaraudio.com Thanks!

I say SUNDOWN FTW!! I am very happy with my SAZ-1500D, underrated and great CS!

Not to sound retarded on this already horribly derailed topic but is there a real mathematical equation for figuring excursion from watts? Also I thought anything lower than 75w would mess up a sub? like the amplifier would start sending a DC signal because the lack of power draw and you guys know better than I do that DC messes up subs faster than AC.. But yea equation?

whaick one is going to be louder and take some POWER?

does the nightshade even compare to the btl is it louder?