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Started on caraudioforum.com to learn how to tune my box; chilled their; asked about upgrades and many suggested Fi. When I went to the Fi site I said, "No better way to learn 'bout these subs than through their forum!"

i found this place through another forum. i want to get involved in other car audio communities so here i am

When the coil smacks the back plate or the spiders smack the top plate / basket or the cone smacks the spider landing is when you hit the mechanical limit.. You do this by either free airing something with power, or playing below tuning frequency of a ported enclosure with no subsonic filter.

If you get a passive component set you'll want a 2 channel amp, and you can wire both mids and tweets to the amp. With a passive setup the amp goes to the crossover, which then splits the signal to the tweeters and mids.

Its easier to hide than a BIG ASS WALL in your car, which everyone can see and if you get pulled over there is no way in hiding a big ass wall full of woofers if it were illegal (use common sense, I know people do shit that is illegal all the time including me).

Get a mulit meter and set it to ohms, touch the probes together and then hook up to the connections on the speaker.

Reducing the airspace inside the enclosure is a great way to raise port frequency, throw some phone books or large blocks of wood in there. Quick, easy, and quite effective.

This is my Theory of what happens. subs have a Fs which is the the free air resonant frequency of the speaker. if a sub has a Fs of 35 hz and you tune your box to 35 hz. the speaker will resonant at that frequency. tuning a box to far below that like 28hz, 25hz or something like that, I might not have the right kind of pressure to keep the speaker from hitting it's Xmech, which is the max mechanical excursion of the speaker. that's why you might hear stories of people say there 1500watt sub blew out on 900watts of power. because the speaker bottomed out and reach it's Xmech because of tuning below Fs.

Its good to allow for 100A of current for every 1,000W of power you plan to run. Keep in mind the most cars will need about 50A to power the vehicle's electronics, so for anything over 1,500W-2,000W, we would recommend a 250A alternator. In many occasions more than one alternator may be required to continuously power a stereo at 14V at full volume.

you got to remember dc flow from plus to minus Only problem here is music is alternating current. If you have DC going to a driver, you have a cone stuck in one direction which = zero sound being produced. one problem there your kinda wrong it's switched dc not ac man big difference. it's switched buy a triggering voltage on the amplifier chip it self. you are right if you got a full blast of dc threw the chip your speaker will do just what you said = zero hertz. Which is AC. It is alternating, just in many cycles instead of at one cycle. wrong again alternating current power etc.. flow's in two direction's in a conductor there is the positive cycle and the negative cycle if the power never drops below plus or minus 0 volts it's d.c. if it goes negative then positive then it's ac. so what fine school did you get this load of crap from any ways. So what you're saying is that an amplifier puts DC out the positive lead to the sub, then switches and puts DC current out the negative lead to the sub to get the sub to move back in? Have you ever put an Oscope to an amplifier's output terminals and played a sine wave? The wave does go both above and below the 0 reference line.

you got to remember dc flow from plus to minus Only problem here is music is alternating current. If you have DC going to a driver, you have a cone stuck in one direction which = zero sound being produced.

you got to remember dc flow from plus to minus Only problem here is music is alternating current. If you have DC going to a driver, you have a cone stuck in one direction which = zero sound being produced. one problem there your kinda wrong it's switched dc not ac man big difference. it's switched buy a triggering voltage on the amplifier chip it self. you are right if you got a full blast of dc threw the chip your speaker will do just what you said = zero hertz. see what happens is it read the disk tape or what what ever and transfer that pulse to the rca or the radio amp it's self this is interpreted but the amp as on or a off signal that simple it flickers the chip. causing a 20hz-30,000 hertz pulse i have seen less then 20 hertz so do take that for grated either.

you got to remember dc flow from plus to minus Only problem here is music is alternating current. If you have DC going to a driver, you have a cone stuck in one direction which = zero sound being produced. one problem there your kinda wrong it's switched dc not ac man big difference. it's switched buy a triggering voltage on the amplifier chip it self. you are right if you got a full blast of dc threw the chip your speaker will do just what you said = zero hertz. Which is AC. It is alternating, just in many cycles instead of at one cycle. wrong again alternating current power etc.. flow's in two direction's in a conductor there is the positive cycle and the negative cycle if the power never drops below plus or minus 0 volts it's d.c. if it goes negative then positive then it's ac. so what fine school did you get this load of crap from any ways.

I got my first BTL 18 about 5 months ago, fully loaded dual 2 ohm version. It was the fist 18 I'd purchased or even heard in person, so I was a bit skeptical because of the mixed things people say about larger drivers as far as quality go. The last two setups I had owned were a kicker L7 15 in 5cubes tuned around 32hz, and and alpine type-x 12 in 1.1cube tuned around 32hz. I had been trying to find a very loud woofer that still sounded half decent, and while the alpine sounded nice, and the kicker got loud, neither did both very well. The kicker was very loud though, so I was really trying to find something that could out-do it. When I started trying to find out about the Fi products, I was extremely surprised to find out that I, the lowly consumer, was able to talk to the men behind the product, and that was amazing to me. The customer support was great from day one, and the interaction with scott/nick/shawn on everything was so helpful, I knew I was in for something good. I built a box 8ft^3 tuned to 35hz for daily with about 115sqinch of port area, but tuned a little high so I could put up a bit better score. There was a double thickness of 3/4inch mdf for the baffle, and 3/4 for the other sides. I couldn't wait to put my Hifonics bxi2006d on it, run with 1/0stinger wire from the 3 batteries and 200amp alternator. I have an alpine 9831 head unit, and CDT components, all I needed was that sub to strengthen the low end. I noticed upon arrival that the packaging was very good, and even though the weight was somewhere near 70lbs everything was intact. The sub looked great, beefy in all aspects, and was huge to say the least! I put the sub in the box and put it in my 99 yukon with adrenaline pumping in anticipation. I kept the volume low, and put in some rock to see how it would handle the kick drums. Whoa, it was articulate and crisp, and sounded DEEEP. After playing with it a while, I put in some rap, Jeezy I believe, and was taken back at the output. A normal listening volume is between 5-7 notches, but I kept cranking the nob, and at a volume of 10 it passed the output of the alpine (when at full tilt), at 13-14 it passed the Kicker L715 (when at full tilt), and it just kept going. At a volume of 20, I could still not hear any distortion, and the volume was incredible. I cracked my drivers window open and felt the air gushing in, actually blowing my hair - which had never happened with my other subs. It sounded controlled and deep, unlike any sub I'd heard before. So much for the 'sloppiness' of larger woofers, this was clean and simply amazing in output. I stepped out of my yukon and looked at the flex of the body. The lock on my trailer hitch was jumping, and my rear doors were moving like they wanted to come open. Getting back in, the bass in Young Dro-Jackie Chan hit so hard it took your breath away, and the lows in hypnotize by Jeezy made the air move in and out of my lungs like nothing else. A few days later I went and got metered. I knew it was louder than the low 140s I was hitting with the l7, but not sure how much. I put in some test tones and went to work on it, finding the peak to be at 42hz. I hit 148 and change, and still 145 and change at 32-34hz. I built a new box a few days later, CRX style with 7.5cubes tuned to 35hz w/ 115 sqin of port. This time I hit over 149. Since then I've purchased a 2nd sub and amp to match, and hit ~149 at 32hz, and a little under 151 @ 42. It stays loud from the low lows up, instead of dropping off where many others do. Now about 3 months since I've had both going, they've had time to break in. The SPL is still rediculous, they pound all day without a problem. After breaking in some of the initial tightness of them is gone, but that can be expected. I would say the SQ is not quite that of an alpine type-x- but close, and MUCH louder than average. I have a 4kw+ amp on the way, and plan to get another to give them a grand total of 8000+ watts, so I will update when I get this done. Being that this is my daily driver I do not plan on tuning higher, but I am very very satisfied with the sq that this spl driver can maintain. I've had people with 'competition' setups get in my car and have a shocked look on their face. I've had people who brag to be hitting in the 160s with 6 12's get in my car, and jump back out saying how ungodly loud it sounds -especially on the lows. Overall they are the best subs I've ever owned, great all around. Hope this helps with someone when trying to find a great sub, for a great price, that really belts out the power and sounds good doing it.