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Found this guide on another forum, and given the slew of recent threads on troubleshooting noise, thought I would post it here. One word of warning is that some HU's and/or processors nowadays have a zero bit mute, which essentially cuts off the output during low signal passages to reduce noise.....so be aware if this is a feature your unit has. Onward to the guide; How can you eliminate alternator whine in a car audio system? If you have alternator whine in a car audio system and want to get rid of it, there is only one sure-fire way to do it. David Navone and Richard Clark from Autosound 2000 in the USA developed the following step-by-step instructions. If you follow the instructions EXACTLY, you are guaranteed to trace and eliminate the noise in your car audio system. Don’t miss a step and don’t assume that something is OK without checking it. Each time you check for noise, you should do it with the engine running at 1500 to 2000 rpm and the headlights on full beam so that the alternator will be charging. The tests with the CD player connected should be done with a ‘zero bit’ track playing and the volume at maximum. Set your CD player to ‘repeat’ if it has that feature. Safety. Make sure when doing noise tests that the parking brake is on and working, and that the vehicle is in neutral or ‘park’. Perform these tests in an area with good ventilation or use an extension hose on the exhaust to route the fumes outside. Step 1. Check the Amplifiers 1a. Unplug the RCA cables from the amplifier/s and mute the signal at the input by using shorting plugs. This will isolate the amplifier from the rest of the car stereo installation. You can make shorting plugs by taking cheap male RCA plugs and soldering the centre and outer terminals together. This shorts out the input of the amplifier/s to ensure that it has zero signal. Has the noise gone? Yes. Go straight to Step 2. Reduce The System. No. Go to 1b. 1b. Disconnect the speakers from the amp and connect a pair of test speakers to it. Make sure the test speakers are not in contact with the car body. The purpose of this step is to ensure proper isolation of the speakers and the speaker leads from the car's chassis. Has the noise gone? Yes. Check speakers, speaker leads and passive crossovers for proper isolation from the car's chassis. Shift passive crossovers to a location away from power cables and the car’s body. No. Go to 1c. 1c. Isolate the amplifier from the chassis of the car. There must not be any electrical contact between the car's chassis and the amplifier, except for the grounding point. Has the noise gone? Yes. Reinstall the amplifier isolated from the chassis of the car. Make sure that the amplifier is grounded in just one point. No. Go to 1d. 1d. Supply the amplifier with an isolated power source, for example an external car battery or a 12-Volt DC power supply. Has the noise gone? Yes. Noise is entering the amplifier via the power supply, try changing the grounding point and add external power supply filtering. Consider changing the amplifier. No. The amplifier has some severe problems, is totally isolated and still noisy. Replace it or have it repaired. That is the end of Step 1. You have now either eliminated the amplifier and speakers as a problem or you have replaced a faulty amplifier. Now you can go on to Step 2. Step 2. Reduce the System. 2a. The amplifier is known to be OK. It is now time to disconnect any signal processors (equaliser, electronic crossover, etc.) and connect the signal from the output of the head unit directly into the input of the amplifier. Has the noise gone? Yes. The noise source must be either one or more of the processors or possibly the signal route. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you didn’t have any signal processors and you are using the signal cable in its normal, installed route then the problem is solved. No. Go to 2b. 2b. Run new signal cables over a new route between the head unit and the amplifier. Has the noise gone? Yes. Permanently route the signal cables in the new route. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved. No. Go to 2c. 2c. Isolate the case of the head unit from car's chassis. There must not be any electrical contact between the head unit and car chassis except for a single grounding point. Beware of antenna grounds and pullout cases! Has the noise gone? Yes. Reinstall the head unit isolated from the car's chassis and any other metal parts in the dash. Ground the head unit at one point. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved. No. Go to 2d. 2d. Move the head unit ground to a quieter grounding point. Test a number of points and also try grounding the head unit to the same point as the amplifier. Has the noise gone? Yes. Reinstall the head unit using the quiet grounding point. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved. No. Go to 2e. 2e. Move the head unit as near to the amplifier as possible. Then connect output of the head unit to the amplifier with the shortest possible RCA cables. Has the noise gone? Yes. Reinstall the head unit one step at a time. Check for noise after each step during the reinstallation. Once you have the head unit installed, noise free go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved. No. Go to 2f. 2f. Supply the head unit with an isolated power source, for example an external car battery or a 12 VDC power supply. Make sure that car chassis is not in contact with the head unit. Has the noise gone? Yes. The head unit is sensitive to noise in the supply voltage. Add power supply filtering to the supply voltage for the head unit or use an isolated power supply. You may be better to change the head unit. Once you have a head unit installed noise free, go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved. No. There is a serious problem with the head unit. Go to Step 4 'Check the Vehicle' and/or change the head unit. Step 3. Add Signal Processors. At this level the amplifier is known to be good. The car's electrical system is OK and the reinstalled head unit is working fine when connected directly to the amplifier. 3a. Connect one of the Processors back into the signal path. Has the noise gone? Yes. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved. No. Go to 3b. 3b. Run new signal cables over a new route between the Head-unit and processor and between the Processor and the amplifier. Has the noise gone? Yes. Permanently route the cables on the new quiet path. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved. No. Go to 3c. 3c. Isolate the processor from the car's chassis except for a single grounding point. Connect the processor ground to the same grounding point as the head unit. Has the noise gone? Yes. Provide isolation between the Processor and the car's chassis and permanently route the cables on the known quiet path. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved. No. Go to 3d. 3d. Since new cables and re-grounding does not help, it is time to relocate the processor very near the amplifier. Connect the output of the processor to the amplifier with the shortest possible RCA cables. Has the noise gone? Yes. Reinstall the Processor one step at a time. Check for noise after each step in the reinstallation. Be careful when routing the signal cables. Remember that the car's chassis is a conductor. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved. No. Go to 3e. 3e. Power the processor with an isolated power supply. Do not let the processor touch the chassis of the car. Has the noise gone? Yes. The processor’s power supply in not sufficiently isolated from its audio circuitry. Either replace it or consider the permanent installation of an isolated power supply (1:1 DC/DC converter). This type of device provides a permanent power source that is well isolated from the car's chassis. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved. No. Go to 3f. 3f. Physically separate the processor and the isolated power supply from the rest of the system by many metres. Use long signal cables. Has the noise gone? Yes. Something is seriously wrong with either the processor or your install/test procedures. Please repeat this level from the beginning. No. Change Processor -- this one has design problems. Go back to 3a for the new processor. Step 4. Check the Vehicle The suspect car's charging and electrical systems can be checked by using the previously installed sound system in a "known quiet" car. 4a. Connect jumper cables between the batteries of the two vehicles and start the engine of the suspect car. Turn on the headlights on the suspect car and listen to the stereo on the "known quiet" car. Is there now noise in the quiet car’s system? Yes. Have a qualified auto electrician check out the car’s charging system. No. The suspect car's alternator and charging system is now proven to be quiet. The problem must lie in the car stereo installation -- not in the vehicle.

Send a PM to Sundownz (Jacob) and ask him. He'll be able to point you somewhere.

Can any amp be strapped? I asked about strapping Autotek MM's before on this forum and I was told they could not. Yes you can, using a device called a Maxxlink: Maxxsonics Maxx-Link MLX-100 (mlx100) Equalizers Sound Processors Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

Funny. Actually I don't pay attention. I work damn near 80hours a week as a Director of Sales for a high tech company, am a hell of a lot younger than 45, and this is how I unwind. Everyone needs a way to relax and this is how I do it. If it weren't for this forum, I'd probably be an alcoholic. People aren't allowed to post whatever they want here, it has to follow the terms and conditions that you agreed to when you joined. This topic didn't and you are complaining about it. Do it again and get a vacation.

......Your completely wrong actually. Sean is not on here often, I would know because I actually do live on here. Sean is a very sucessful businessman, the woman in his signature is his wife FYI. You are way out of line speaking like that. I think you should edit that post before a moderator sees it, your likely to be banned or take a forced vacation for being that rude, especially to a senior member. Highly doubtful...and I'm not worried. So you're saying because he has posted incredible amounts of posts, he has the right to leave rude replies on all of my posts? That just doesn't seem right, and I would expect a little more maturity from a senior member. I believe I have the right to post a new topic if I want and shouldn't have to deal with complaints from people like him. Sean has been here for 5 years, he leaves rude replies because you refuse to reas the new thread guidelines and rules that you agreed to when you joined the forum. No you do not have the right to post whatever you want as this is not your forum or website, and you will deal with complaints form senior members because they have more experience, and that is what they are there for. They are here to monitor all threads and give criticism when needed. Honestly, you needed the criticism.

Well here are your two wiring options, so your gonna need a 1 ohm stable amp.

Welcome to the forum, there's a lot of knowledgeable people here who can help with your questions as they arrive. Remember that "search" is your friend, almost any question you can think of has been asked before and your answers may be just a search away. Looking at Sundown for your first setup is definitely a good move, wish I knew what I know now when I started in audio years ago, you're already ahead of the game!

Measure first, but: SURROUND 15 from Parts Express ship same day and come with 45 day money back guarantee. Free Shipping Available. Order free 10,000 product catalog. There are others, but this should give you an idea how to search anyway.

Just out of curiosity, did you go to the SDS website and read his writeup's? If so, re-read it again. After the read, just buy direct from SDS. Better product, better service, and better results for the money. *I'll also add that it is best to ignore sadistic's comments as they are never based in reality

You really don't want any vibration damper for a pure SPL car. Vibration dampers eat energy. If you only care about numbers on a meter, find a better way to reinforce the panels to prevent energy loss to panel motion and deformation.

Fatmat is asphalt. According to their website, they released a product called Mega Mat in 2009 which they claim is their first butyl product. There is a lot of confusion because FatMat used to claim it was butyl when it wasn't. After a lengthy debate on one of the forums, the owner agreed to remove the word "butyl" from the site. Last time I checked, he was still using it on his eBay auctions. He also stated that asphalt was a superior vibration damper in many ways, but chose not to elaborate further. I've yet to see anyone selling a butyl product say it was asphalt Company lying.....another great reason not to support FatMat

From Fatmat's website; That would indicate to me they are admitting the Fatmat deadener has nothing to do with butyl, as they are explicitly stating Mega Mat is their first butyl product.

Fatmat is asphalt. According to their website, they released a product called Mega Mat in 2009 which they claim is their first butyl product. There is a lot of confusion because FatMat used to claim it was butyl when it wasn't. After a lengthy debate on one of the forums, the owner agreed to remove the word "butyl" from the site. Last time I checked, he was still using it on his eBay auctions. He also stated that asphalt was a superior vibration damper in many ways, but chose not to elaborate further. I've yet to see anyone selling a butyl product say it was asphalt

Much of it has to do with performance. The pressure behind the dust cap on the Xcon can get much greater then on the Icon, so the single full concave dust cap on the Xcon can take that pressure better then the convex dustcap on the Icon. The Xcon dustcap is a little heavier, but for the Xcon, it is needed.

Ever heard of headroom?

i agree with m5. dallas is a beast on defense but romo is a chroke artist...and new orleans just isnt that great.

NO & Dallas both lose this week.

My thumb is sore from the blackberry trackball

and jay-cee

How do you miss 3 kicks in a playoffs game, all you do is kick the damn ball. The thing that gets me about the issue is you hardly see new kickers in the league, but they will pass veteran kickers around the league like rag dolls. When one does bad he is cut and is picked up by another team because there previous kicker was doing bad. So what should that tell you just because he signs with you doesnt mean he is automatically going to shine for you and your team. Suisham fucking blows

These new members are the worse and arent getting better, why do you cry when someone talks to you like a man. Are we hear to baby you and sugar coat shit like where your parents and tell you everything is going to be ok?

Agreed. I figured you wouldn't be on tonight so I gave him some too.

Jammer or whatever the fuck. The coast is nice...for CA.

Well you should be good on the HO alternator, yeah I feel your pain my main battery is in my trunk too but since it came with factory 4 gauge wire and Im not upgrading my alt anytime soon I left it along for now (but I did the other two wire). Yeah well at least the run to the second battery will be short as hell, you gotta compromise in car audio.

What a fuck nut

like that stupid ass cough medicine one...i just read that and it was fucking ridiculous That one and break up hurts takes the cake for the new year so far .

Thats not even syrup, my friends would get grain alcohol and mix it with cough medicine and got mad at me because I wouldnt drink it. Im from the place where it originated and if you think Im going to take cough medicine over lean or alcohol you are mistaken. Why would you want to be drowsy just go get the real thing. Lean and Syrup for the win, pour up fellas.

Sweet build man, what are the specs of that box? What are the numbers it put up?

I thought I was the only one going overkill by using liguid nails as a sealer for all joints instead of silicone like most. I do have a question that will help me and others shizzzon, why do people say not to use liquid nails as glue between the pieces instead of titebond or other wood glue (my last box for 3-12"s was liquid nails for glue and sealent; which was a strong and sturdy box)?

How did they perform free air, just curious since it will take mine forever to get here?

Yeah Im gonna try my attempt at three way, shhhh dont tell nobody! Im in the process of trying to get rid of some of these Eminence's first but I did 1 of the 4 MLI-65's Im gonna run just to see how it performs and whatnot.

He already checked his amp with another speaker so the sub has nothing to do with it. Sounds like an rca issue or grounding issue since you say it gets warm fairly quick, right?

To me the amp sounds bad if you had to turn the bass boost up to 100% or you have some jacked up settings on amp and/or headunit. Do you have any extra rcas to test out besides the ones you are using.

See I knew I was messing up or the enclosure program I was using wasnt right. Well Im trying to get a rear firing port and subwoofer enclosure (17"H x 33"W x 21''D=max dimensions) double baffle, between 3.75-3.85ft^3 @ 30-31z.

I want it tuned a little lower, really between 30hz if you can get it accurate.

I remember your carpet around your subwoofers from your previous pos t awhile back. Im glad to see you got your upgraded amp, did you ever get the issues you had with your subs and box fixed?

Anything else going in there besides subs and amps?

I really like this build, nice simple and clean . I wish I kept the pictures from all my previous builds.

Lil Whyte! Lol

I have no personal experience with them myself but I have heard that the Q is a hell of a sub more geared towards SQ but can get loud. If it were me, I'd get a Q over the SSD

It's the AM.

I was just being a post whore.

Can any amp be strapped? I asked about strapping Autotek MM's before on this forum and I was told they could not. Yes you can, using a device called a Maxxlink: Maxxsonics Maxx-Link MLX-100 (mlx100) Equalizers Sound Processors Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix Forget all about that device, fixed my previous post.

Me and my friend were driving around looking for a party that someone must have forgotten to mention to us, and after about 20 minutes of driving around we found it. It was in a very quiet neighborhood, but it wasn't going to remain quiet for long. After numerous attempt of trying to get ahold of someone inside, I decide to spice up their party just a bit. I looked through my Ipod and came across Young Jeezy's song Hypnotize.......I turned up the volume to max and shook the house, and all of the people inside scurried as fast as they could, scared that the cops may show up. Maybe next time they will remember to call us, or it may happen again lol.

How many of these amp topics are you gonna make, there is no such thing as underpowering a subwoofer at all. A 100 watt amp will make an Icon produce sound, a 500 watt amp will do a better job and 1000 watt amp so on. Figure out if how many subs you want and then find out what amp will go with it. You dont have to overpower a sub, you dont have to give a sub its rms and it is ok to give a sub less than it's rms (its all on budget, personal preference and goals such as daily or competing).

As many as i want jaycee,until i find what works for me.Couldnt possibly bother you that much,man thats what this forum is for! Why are you guys getting so upset, nobody is bothered but this is not helping you or the forum. Obviously you cant follow the rules since we just said dont vote for anybody unless it is false or misleading information, which my post wasnt. My post is to help you but you guys get sand in your vaginas and dont even notice when someone is helping you because yall rather cry about someone hurting your feelings. Grow up an read my post and take the valuable information from it. Every answer you need or want is in my post and other post that have been on your so many threads about the same thing. You can make as many topics that you want, but the same exact topic with one less subwoofer and an amp with 500 less watts wont make a big difference and isnt really that far off. That is why you need to find out what your goals are, what your budget is and what you can fit in the space you have available and go from there. Instead of every six hours barely changing it up, it is not helping the forum or you at all. Instead does this go with these or will this power this, you need to start a topic saying I have this much space with this much budgeted for each aspect of the install listed with your goals, the electrical upgrades you made so far and what ever information you can give us to help you make a better decision.

Excellent pictures and beautiful scenery

I admit I laughed at that one, they give these punters to much grace. I know they dont want anyone injured on purpose but it is football and not flag football. They act like these dudes are better then the quarterback, they cant get touched at all.

Now that is a touch choice, your gonna have to let it boil down to a compromise either 500 watts more power or just one amp with less wiring. Which will you choose?

I honestly think the Chargers could stop the Colts if they dont play soft and let up, they gotta play 60 minutes of great football. I think whoever wins the NFC Championship game will win the Super Bowl.