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no, sundown does around 1600w@1ohm and the ap does hair over 2000w @4ohm U can wire to both of those configurations. Do not choose based on power alone because u will not hear the difference.

Going with nothing is a smarter move then giving your money to RD, or buying RD used and having to give RD money to repair it. Do you research on the company and the products, as I am not bashing what so ever.

It is bad in the sense that it will likely overload quickly and the amp will start drawing straight battery power. If you are reading the dash voltmeter as your basis for saying it only goes down 1 volt, that may be correct. Some of those voltmeters don't react fast enough to show you the true depth of voltage fluctuations. Either that or your resting voltage is only 13 volts and then it drops down to the battery's 12 volts and that's the 1 volt drop you're seeing, or else you just aren't drawing as many amps as you think, as Denim mentioned. Because it is physically impossible for an 85 amp alternator to provide 14 volts continuously to an amplifier drawing over 165 amps. You would HAVE to dip into the battery storage, and at that point the voltage could not be more than 12-12.5.

I decided to start the Build Log finally, unlike most it isnt complete and wont be finished in a month or two (as Im still making decisions and buying gear at the moment). I am going to start the build with what has been done in the trunk so far. Bare naked trunk, starting battery factory location (2 - 1/0 AWG Kicker Hyperflex, soon to be 2 - 3/0 Welding Cable runs of ground wire). Trunk with Carpet Sundown SAX-125.2 (for mids - all wiring will be upgraded to KnuKonceptz Kollossus 4 Gauge and KnuKonceptz Karma 16 ga. speaker wire).

The AP is more powerful cause you are comparing 1.5kW to 3kW amp ??

What prices are you looking at for both amps? If you are comparing 1500D to 3000D then their prices are identical right? Have you looked for some second hand saz1500D? I've seen some for 300$. I don't know how much is AudioPipe but you can find some good amps for cheap. Look here for actual power : SSA Car Audio Forum -> Sundown Technical

If I don't need to break them in then why was it louder the second day of playing music, with the same settings? Also, where all the responses to my vids?? I want some talk in here Needing (or not needing) to break them in with some sort of patterned playing has nothing to do with the sub becoming louder the second day. The reason it got louder the second day is because it broke itself in. If you would have played it at a lower volume level the first day, it would have taken 3-4 days to break in to the point of being louder like it was the second day.

Don't bring this shit here. IF you have a problem with the man, be a man, and take it to the man. That simple. Other wise, shut your mouth, or in this instance, don't type.

Bro, I just don't understand you, lol. You have the owner of the company that built the sub and someone who obviously works there and quite a few people who own the sub all telling you that you need to do something to make it sound better and you just blow them off like they have no idea what they are talking about. Like you really know better than the guy who built the sub lulz! Sounds to me like you need to learn how to tune your amp. Subs aren't meant to play that high. I could hear voice in your sub in the video. Not good. And your gain is obviously set to high if you hear distortion in your sub. Either that or your using bass boost or at worst both of these. There is no such thing as underpowering a sub. You can't try to push the amp further than it can comfortably go though. This is when your signal starts clipping, which is the cause of your distortion. But since you are not that much of a noob and got it under control, I'm sure it will work out just fine for you. LULZ.

wow lol you got it out for him dont you? nah man. if you just take a second to look at the way he talks and acts, you would understand. have you ever seen the way he talks down on people on the his forum? its rediculous. besides, anyone can do wonders with 4 18s and 30k watts.

insane...10,000 watts...awesome!

Yeah I felt as though I couldnt pass this offer up, but it felt like he was telling me hey you would like were I tune it (didnt ask or anything just made it seem like that was rule of thumb for there tunig like its no exceptions). Yeah I love the lows and could care less about ouptut becaue it will still be there regardless, now if I wanted to compete then I would take that into consideration to tune higher. I just came from a box tuned at 26Hz and to go up to 35hz or 36hz is ridiculous to me. If I do good numbers then I want it to be at a lower frequency (now thats impressive) cause anybody can tune a box in the 35hz - 45hz range and get good numbers on output. What are your plans now Chop, dont give up on the sub I bet it will be where you want it when you get the right box for it that fits your preferences.

Why would I and everybody has there preferences, those may be lows to you but not to me (Im down 1hz from what is recommended and I prefer lows over output anyday). But thanks for your input, if anything I will go to 30Hz and no higher.

Yeah Im working on getting a board so I can start making my battery tray in the spare tire well. Yeah I like low tuning and Jacob said the lowest I should go is 28 so I decided to go 29hz. Well yeah your right but Im cool on that, this may be a temporary sub or may be permanent sub but regardless of what amp someone has the sub will resale if I want it too. I am looking at the Nightshade v2 and if I do purchase it I will have 2 subs in case something happens or dont like the Nightshade v2 or whatever. But thanks for the info.

Yeah I ended up flipping a coin and the Sundown Z15 won, so it will be one 15".

For electrical: Big 2 of 3 done (only upgraded ground wires so far, will upgrade battery positive to alternator during this build or when I get my h/o alternator but it came with stock 4 gauge so its cool for now). -engine block to cars frame is currently 1 run of 1/0 AWG Kicker Hyperflex and will be replaced/upgraded with 1 run of 3/0 or 4/0 AWG welding wire. -battery negative to cars frame is currently 2 runs of 1/0 AWG Kicker Hyperflex and will be replaced/upgraded with 1 run of 3/0 or 4/0 AWG welding wire. As for subwoofers I am learning towards 1-15" since I never had one and want to try one out, so if I go that route I will get a Sundown Z15(D4) on the Sundown SAZ-2000D at 2 ohms and maybe upgrade in the future to a nightshade if I want more or just to switch between two. But then again I dont want to leave the 2-12"s option and get 2 Sundown SA-12"s and see how they treat me, its all a toss up but for some reason im leaning towards the 15" option. The enclosure will be no more 3.5 for either box tuned at 30Hz. Looking at keeping it an all Sundown trunk for now (subs,amps) for now but time will tell.

hmmmm.....I would say underneath for a uniform look. When I put some of my painted stuff in, it had scratches on it because of sliding the box in and out so many times. Very good input on paint being scratched off so that will be a good idea, I wont put the board in the car until I finish painting the other side and putting some type of dampening down to keep it from scratching up the paing (really taking my time with painting this time unlike other things I have painted in the past cause I always tried to finish in one day). Appreciate ya Chop, I like that idea as well (that was were I was wanting to put it also, great minds think alike but just thought I would ask my SSA Family). Yeah its not the room I like to have, but its bigger than most cars my size so Im cool with it (wish I had room for 2-15"s).

Im not gonna carpet the lid, it is sprayed with speckle paint and will stay like that. Thats exactly why I didnt make the lid take up the whole storage space and the box will be wider than it is deeper so air will be able to get down there. I just want some suggestions on if the lid should be under the carpet or on top thats all.

I have a board that cut to make a 3/4 lid for the old spare tire area, now the new battery storage area when I get two new batteries. The board covers up most of the area, leaving some room in the back for wires from amps and car (I havent decided how I will throw 2 - 90AH batteries down there yet but thats were they will go). Should I leave lid above carpet or undercarpet (Option #1 or Option #2)? Thanks for input fellas. Unpainted storage lid Painted storage lid Carpet over paint storage lid - Option #1 Storage lid on top of carpet unpainted Storage lid on top of carpet painted - Option #2 Which route would you go with placing this storage lid, if its above the carpet I will attach enclosure on top of it but if not it will go undercarpet?

Well its not as stupid as using the term "nooblets" which makes just as much since as mashing acronyms like "SQL". Its just a word to describe new members in any field out there, not just car audio. SQL is not a good term for the way people use it at all, they dont even go together. If the word newb, , nooblet or whatever else you can make from the word upset your or get to you then you have more in life to be worried about, such as why do words bother you.

the volume behind the box where the cargo enters the cabin area, you have plenty of space there so u are fine. What i WOULD do though is pull the box out and flip it over so the port is on the other side. You always want the port on the opposite side of the car that you are sitting if you are not competing. This allows the pressure to load better on the driver side. High pressure levels like to move to low pressure areas.

does anyone else think stve mead is a total loser? this guy lives on youtube and probably put a double mortgage on his house just to do everything to his cars that hes done. i bet he jerks off to his own youtube videos. i dont know why everyone is all over his dick. hes got a hot wife and thats about it.