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Bro, obviously the Sundown is a better amp. But seriously, you are not going to hear any difference between the BXi1600 and the SAZ-1500. The amp you have is fine for that sub. All you need to do, as I told you in your other thread, is learn to set you gains properly. A 1600 watt amp should have no problem running on a stock alternator and a good battery under the hood, so I have no idea why you are thinking that spending a couple hundred on a high output alternator is going to make it sound any better. I'm not trying to down you here bro, but I just think your confused is all. You have had quite a few people tell you the same thing I just did, but apparently you haven't been given the answer you where looking for, so you keep asking the same question in a different way. Bottom line is, no matter how many times you ask the question, the answer is still the same. Believe me, I have done what you are doing. If you would like to spend alot of xtra money for no reason, by all means buy the Sundown. But you have to understand, there will be no audible difference between the two. You do not have to give a sub it's exact rms to get great sound and output from it. And your electrical should be sufficient. Now, it obviously never hurts to upgrade electrical, but don't expect your sub to sound 10 times better just cause you put a $300 alt in your car. Please, just listen to the answer when you ask a question. Don't waste time trying to prove them wrong, or find a loophole that proves your situation is special or different so what they have to say doesn't apply to you. Just take it for what it is and put the information to good use. Bottom line is, if you want to spend alot of money on these upgrades you think you need, shoot me a pm and by all means I will help you find the best deal out there to get what you are looking for. But, if you want to accept some advice and make what you already have sound great then listen to what people are trying to tell. Honestly, these guys have nothing to gain by steering you in the wrong direction or giving you false information. Now, they have told you that box is fine for your sub, so that is good. Sounds to me like you just need to do a thorough check on your wiring and make sure it is all up to par. Then, take the time to learn how to set your gain, sub-sonic filter, and low pass filter. Here is a start: Now, I wish you the best of luck in whatever you choose to do. And please don't think I'm picking on you, I was in your shoes not to long ago and I'm just trying to save you the trouble I went thru. Do yourself a favor and listen to what these good people are telling you.

unless that is the group 31 yellow top your going to want to get a bigger battery in the rear but if you do it right you should be able to get away with your single run of KLMX but doing a 2nd run will be much safer

Any little thing you can do to smooth air flow will help. Jacob did a nice topic on this a few months back showing pictures as he went along and the increases he made from them.

Unless your looking for 10ths of a db on a TL meter for comps you will not audibly be able to tell the difference. Even though the Sundown is my choice. Also no such thing as "under powering" a subwoofer.

The RD is a piece of crap and so is the company. Keep ignoring advice and you'll keep getting the wrong solution. I tried to point out that a BL was better for you than a Q and I'll do it again. For your goals you DON'T want an RD paperweight and should have a BL, BTL or the like.

It doesn't need 2,000 watts to "reach its fill potential" That's a moronic way of thinking.You sound like Steve Mea[)e

Fi and Ascendant Audio is the same company by the way, one is internet only the other is dealer only.

Don't put 2,000 watts on it. 1500 is more than enough.

what do you think would sound better something like this would do well icon 12 and 1000d leaves you room in the budget for electrical etc

Thanks for the heads up. Fixed.

Subs look nice, Ive always wanted some Havocs.

Ok well if you ever consider selling you enclosure software keep me in mind. Thanks Again.

Just curious as to what the white blocks are in the port, if you dont want to answer I understand. But thanks a million again.

Naw I dont need any 45's, I think a double baffle will suffice enough (I already though of doing that). So is it 3.72ft^3 @ 30.63 or 30.01hz for tuning, perfect box man I definitely appreciate it. Happy New Years to you and yours.

Well not a problem at all I understand, Im gonna need for you to do a little more work and I will be done. Can we change the max dimensions depth to 20"D and lower the tuning close to 30Hz (30-30.5hz) and volume after displacement 3.6-3.8ft^3. Thanks and I promise Im stuck with these numbers I just posted.

Did you finally wire you sub to a 1 ohm load and if so how is the voltage?

yeah I seen it, looks great for it just to be the jl audio 250/1. I wanna put my 2000D in also but Im a little skeptical on it, even though MemphisMzd said put it in and watch the voltage (maybe in august if batteries still havent been bough then I will just install it and be real cautious with it)

whats the name of that mike jones song you were playing, I thought you had the saz-2000d hooked up in the video but I thought wrong

now thats one fine piece of sound audio equipment right there

do you have any other amps in the car, for your interior speakers. if so where are you going to mount them

or just go to home depot and buy a black shelf board like i did (it will save you the time cutting and painting), works out just the same. I have my board holding my two amps for my mids & tweeters

good job man, would you like to do my trunk (just playing), enjoying the build so far

good location to mount the meter

thats a good car off voltage but that starting voltage should be better. All with stock alt, batter but Big 3 Done: Im 13.1 with car offf Im 14.7 when car first cranked Im14.1-14.3 with lights and ac full blust with two high amps on, 93 degree texas night

haha now that i think of it.. i do.. i just got like 17ft of it in that amp kit that i dont need.. but for the power and ground i'll probably just use 16g rockford speaker wire.. sound good to you? in my opinion i dont think that will be needed but maybe someone else will chime in if im wrong, it is still going to read the voltage of the vehicle the same with either wire.

i just used the standard blue 18g remote wire but 16g would do the trick if you dont have any 18g laying around just make sure your ground wire is the same as the power wire

I have mines wired into the radio's wires since I customized my dash kit and fit it into the pocket under the radio. I suggest you use your radio's wiring since you will probably have that voltmeter somewher up close to the dash so it can be read easier

definately definately.. the wire is packed too.. it's not just all insulator.. quality stuff.. but head on down to radio shack.. got mine there only $20.. already tested my voltage and was just about to post results.. and some more pics eventually.. but i need that sub and then i can really have fun do you have a voltmeter by any chance? yeah i have an audiocontrol epic-160 that has a voltmeter on it, right under the radio

great products in a wiring kit, i got to get my hands on a multimeter asap. Im mad you beat me to punch, have fun installing

good start and keep us posted

im sittin here talkin to my buddy on ventrilo and we have no idea what he should get his gf. hes 18, his gf is 16. the cap is 100 bucks. theyve been dating for almost a year. and it cant be audio equipment =[

Well its not as stupid as using the term "nooblets" which makes just as much since as mashing acronyms like """SQL""". real men use the term "noob". dont hate.

define clean

i agree. it shouldnt have to be black and white. everyone looks at it like there should be no shades of grey. i prefer spl subs, with sq mids and highs... and i feel like whenever i mention this, people think im committing a crime. EDIT: and when i say sound quality, i dont mean the rediculous measures some people on these forums go to just to make the sound quality a tiny bit better. i mean mids and highs that were designed for sq. im not really that educated on mids and highs, nor have i been exposed to much in person, but the mids and highs that i heard that just get really loud, that have similar sound quality to a stock door speaker, i cant stand those. This isn't about what you like it is about mis-using a term. I think you are also misapplying SPL as well though as I'd bet you wouldn't (and couldn't) have an SPL bass setup with your "SQ" front stage. I'd also bet that what you call and SQ front stage isn't anywhere near the category. You are trying to fit into some ideal parameters to make yourself feel like you fit. Don't, instead just like what you like and describe how it is. BTW an SQ front stage by definition has midbass that is of the same level as the subs... lol im not trying to "fit in"... i dont really care what anyone on here thinks of me. but apparently i havent heard a true sq system then, and i guess i really dont understand what everyone on these forums would consider to be SQ, because i have definitly not heard midbass that matches the loudness the lows, nor did i even know that thats what sound quality is. I had always thought it simply just ment clarity and flat response on the lows. i didnt realize how in depth my question was going to end up. i have close to no exposure other than youtube videos and these forums. I havent met a single person that went to my high school thats even heard of Fi, or sundown or audioque, dc, etc. im the only one that runs a sub that isnt mainstream, everyone where i live is stuck on kicker cvr's and jl w3s, lol.

fair enough. although i dont really use it, i just wondered why it was frowned upon so much. but since i dont know the definition, would you or someone mind listing or describing everything that makes a SQ system?

define clean Who are you Bill Clinton? lol well i dont get caught when im nailing random bitches while im on the job

yeah if i remember right i think i saw something about this on ROE a long while back. and i think one of the guys from Fi said they were only gonna do the BTL and BL. but dont hold me to this, i dont wanna be the one responsible for false rumors.

i think there would be plenty demand for it too. i know if i had an SUV, id much rather run 2 22s than 4 18s cuz im guessing a 22's optimal enclosure would be like 10 or 11 cubes. where as thats the minimal enclosure for 2 18s. obviously thats a pretty extreme setup but i think thered be plenty of people that would do up the 22s, for sure.

That's exactly why it shouldn't be used. Well by that logic neither should loud. What's loud to me may not be loud to you. Can you answer me this please, why does it bother you so much how somebody chooses to describe their system, be it loud, sq, spl or """SQL"""? If SQ was so cut and dry, there would be no need to have multiple judges at SQ shows, but obviously what sounds good to one guy doesn't sound good to the next. I think there are more things to lose sleep over compared to whether or not somebody is using the SUBJECTIVE term """SQL""" properly. Keyword: SUBJECTIVE Yes, "loud" is subjective, but it can be a quantitative measurement (decibels). sq is completely subjective. im sure somewhere across the earth, someone would like their stock door speakers over some $1000 focal components.

define clean Who are you Bill Clinton? lol well i dont get caught when im nailing random bitches while im on the job It was just a BLOWJOB! nah. i know my boi Bill was hittin it. they just said it was a BJ so his wife wouldnt dump him

^^^ =[... we want 22s!!!

i remember there being talk a while ago, about some 22" BTLs and i think the BLs too. are those still coming soon or are they out of the picture now? i havent heard anything about them in a long while...

exactly what it says. why is the term ""SQL"" looked down upon, so much? theres plenty of sq drivers out there that are capable of getting decently loud...

noooooo sir. coricidin cough and cold. take 12 and your in the gold for as long as you can stay up

its hard to compare a new amp to a used one, because theres really no knowing how much wear and tare is on that used amp. if you were to compare them when they are both new, i would say roll with Audioque if budget is the main issue, and sundown if you want a quality, beefy ass board that will most likely last longer than the audioque.

honda civic and race track should not be used in the same sentence lmao. you dont need a spoiler unless your doing 130-140+ mph. and im not going to give your japanese car the benefit of the doubt, i dont think your ricer runs that fast. and if it does go that fast, you should buy a real wing instead of rocking the stock spoiler. that little stock spoiler probably isnt doing you any good to begin with to be honest. EDIT: and to actually answer your question, if the wing itself just separated from your car, then that probably has nothing to do with the wing. its probably the bolt or bracket or w/e has it mounted on the car. so buying a higher quality wing probably wont solve your problem.

db-r sells refurbished amps. heres the link to the SAZ-2000D. $382.50 Refurbished SAZ-2000D : dB-r Electronics, Online Store

does anyone else think stve mead is a total loser? this guy lives on youtube and probably put a double mortgage on his house just to do everything to his cars that hes done. i bet he jerks off to his own youtube videos. i dont know why everyone is all over his dick. hes got a hot wife and thats about it.

Well How would 250watts have no difference at all in sound? I know about how it takes ten times the the watts for double the output, but I would still think there would be a small difference? And would this 1500rms sundown sound better than my 1600rms hifonics? If that little of watts makes no difference then what is the point of upgrading?