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Due to all the negative comments that were way out of line imo on the announcement of the new SAZ-2500D. I think Jake you should post a sticky stating that all Sundown Products and specifications are subject to change due to continuing upgrades, modifications and improvements! This would help clarify to all that Sundown continues to develop and improve new models and older models will be phased out.

Do you have a picture of your door so we can see what it looks like so we can better guide you as to what you can make to go on it? Or what year S15 do you drive? In the old days before fiberglass we made door panels out of just mdf that we screwed / bolted on to the door panel and recessed a speaker into them, but they were heavy as heck. Doing glass isn't too hard, you just have to take your time and get the right materials to make it come out nice, plus it's a lot less weight on the door. If you want to get a lot of good information about glassing, I would go to fiberglassforums.com and check out some of the builds on there. Those guys know their stuff when it comes to fabrication and I'm sure someone can steer you in the right direction. I know the basics of glass, but I'm still in AWE of what some of those guys can do. The best advice I can give to you on components is go LISTEN to everything you can. Make your decision on what sounds best to YOUR ears. There are a lot of good speaker companies out there, I know which one I would use, but that's me. At the end of the day, what sounds best to YOU is what you should get. Good luck with your search for a component set, and be sure to post pics when you get them in.

Quality (as in build) should always trump Quantity (as in power). That is something many people on here and even more so on other sites fail to realize.

Opinions may differ, the laws of physics however do not. And ultimately that's what we are discussing; the laws of physics, not opinions. It doesn't matter how fancy the equipment connected to each end of the cable is. It doesn't matter how golden eared someone thinks they may be. The laws of physics dictates that the LCR properties of a cable will determine how that cable affects the signal. If there LCR properties of two cables are close enough as to not audibly alter the response, they will sound identical. The likelyhood of a non-damaged RCA cable having a significant enough difference in the LCR properties to affect the signal is remote unless an electric circuit is added to the wire to intentionally alter the response as some extremely high priced speaker wire manufacturers do. But at that point you are no longer comparing the wire itself and instead comparing wire to a passive equalizer.....that could be accomplished with cheap wire and the same passive elements. Although I'm not sure why anyone would ever want to purchase a wire that intentionally alters the signal, but they do. And you do realize directional is only directional if there's a drain wire used for noise reduction, right? If directional cable is claimed to be directional because of "how the crystals in the wire are oriented" or "how the wire is drawn" or some other marketing bullshit it's exactly that; bullshit. There is a saying I like from a pretty smart fella on another forum...... There are 3 great mysteries scientists are facing in modern physics; 1. A unified theory of gravity and sub-atomic particles, that finally comprehends and unites quantum mechanics and general relativity. 2. Dark matter and dark energy, that seem to be causing the rate of expansion of the universe to be increasing. 3. How the hell to pass a 20kHz audio signal through a cable.

Yeah either a Dual 1 ohm or Dual 4 ohm coil will get you a 2 ohm load.

Asking for suggestions on an EQ at a decent price is a pretty vague question. First, as M5 pointed out, what type of EQ you need will be determined by what exactly you are trying to accomplish. If you are trying to target specific areas, you might be okay with a 5-10 band parametric EQ. If you are trying to shape the overall response, you might need a 1/3 octave graphic. If you are wanting to use all 3 preouts from the headunit to retain all of the HU's features, you would need to find an EQ with atleast 6 channel inputs and outputs. The other option is to use only a single preout and potentially lose certain features from your headunit (like front to rear fading, crossovers, etc). Audiocontrol I know off hand makes EQ's that offer 6+ channels of input, however for their cost you would be much better going off with a more powerful digital processor like a used H701. That would run you $300-$400. IMHO, your would best bet would be to simply use a deck that offers a decent EQ and live within it's limitations. It appears you want to use an EQ simply to change things to where you think they sound best rather than their proper use which is primarily to fix identified problems with the frequency response.....in which case, spending a lot of money on an EQ that would do everything you would like wouldn't really be worth the cost.

The HDC3's sounded like horse ass??? NO WAY!?!?

x2, since some of these idiots dont understand every year a company changes there product to better them for the customers. They should be glad and not crying about the matter but one thing I learned in life is you cant please them all. Some people cant be pleased no matter how hard you try so Jacob keep doing you and you have my support along with plenty other people.

You don't have enough posts to sell anything on this board. Please read the rules. And to the OP, do not ever buy something from someone new on a board via PM. Dangerous. Not saying there is anything wrong with this guy but with no history I'd advice HIGHLY against it. Plus notice how he didn't offer to answer your question, but just to sell you something?

Everything is done for better airflow ... kerfed ports, rounding the edges.

That cant be cranking amps.... I know it says so on their company site but that's false advertising... it has to be. CA means to output a particular current rating for 30 seconds straight down to 9.6 or 10.6v, cant remember off hand, at 32F. There's no way there biggest battery, which is 120aH and ...2600CAs can do that at ~80lbs and only $300... The XS D3100 is the largest battery they make and it's got 1,360CAs and 5000MAs. What YOU are reading is the MA reading of the battery, they have it wrong or are incorrectly measuring CA specs. I can tell you that while any 12v batt can be used as a starting batt, only some excel at it. Shuriken and Kinetik have outstanding reserve capability but not so hot quick disbursement of power compared to other companies. Xstatic Batcap and XS Power have xtremely high current discharge capabilities and are superior to starting vehicles. Xstatic batcaps may be better at starting a vehicle, but XS Power batts have longer, LOT LONGER reserve capacity than Batcaps do as Batcaps are primarily focused on quick discharge only and that's not only what u need in a starting battery... For daily use and as a starting battery, XS Power all the way, or a strong enough Shuriken\Kinetik is fine too. They business practices should be slaughtered for stating that on their site. typically, the higher the CA or MA, the more a battery cost. I can get 100aH batts for under $100 but they are terrible for really high MAs... You get another 100aH batt with very high MA rating, the price sky-rockets.