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I would take out what you can (speaker, adapter plate if you dont need and Bose box next to speaker) but I wouldnt remove its factory wiring and the leave the plugs alone. Just my .02 in case you ever want to re install it for whatever reason all you have to do is screw it back in, then plug and play. Just one option, Im sure someone will chime in with another one.

Make your box the 50x16x16, and make each port 14.5" tall x 2.25" wide x 35" deep. That'll give you 4 cubes @ 33 hz. Or, the two boards that make up the L-shaped port will probably nearly come together at the back of the box on the inside. Just make sure the opening between them is 4.5" (2.25" x 2). You can just end the boards so that they're 4.5" apart. If that means your ports are only 34" long each or whatever, that's fine. It'll only raise your tune about .5 hz, and that's in between your 33-34 hz still anyways.

I would take out what you can (speaker, adapter plate if you dont need and Bose box next to speaker) but I wouldnt remove its factory wiring and the leave the plugs alone. Just my .02 in case you ever want to re install it for whatever reason all you have to do is screw it back in, then plug and play. Just one option, Im sure someone will chime in with another one. x2. I personally would never cut any factory plug! Especially if you plan on selling or trading your vehicle in the future.

Looking good Brother. X2 on what Jay said, just bypass all the factory wiriring. I wish I was there to help with the wiring as thats my FAVORITE part of an install.

I'll be adding a review in a month or so

To put it simple: Big box= lots of excursion on low(er) power=more efficient Small box= less excursion on the same amount of power=less efficient Smaller boxes have less air in it, so it support the cone better=less excursion. Too much excursion=blown sub.

umm the night shade V1 are discontinued... so i ASSUME you already have one and wnat to get a recone BUT with more spiders! correct? anyways here is some help SPIDER Everyone familiar with a speaker has seen the flexible corrugated woven material that exists just below the cone. This is the spider, which is a part of the speaker that helps maintain linear movement of the voice coil. This maintains control over the entire cone movement. Spiders are generally made of cotton, poly-cotton blend, or conex. They also come in a variety of sizes. However, the major difference between spiders is the number of corrugations, meaning the valleys and peaks, and the heights of these. This is important because some speakers have longer throw than others. The wrong spec spider has the potential to break down quickly and create "spider sag." That can greatly affect the sound quality of your speaker. i STOLE this from here: please read and i give FULL credit to this site! Anatomy of the Subwoofer (cont.) - Features - Features - Car Audio and Electronics

yes for the ring terminals! now for fusing,, i didn't quite understand (b/c i am slow) but never fuse a ground wire! when fusing between batteries FUSE to the WIRES limits! for example i have the KNU klossus wiring and it is RATED for 300amps, so the fuse i use in that one is 300amps! when going from a battery to an amp: a) if the amp has fusing on it don't worry about it aii) some ppl like to be double safe so fuse to the amp, IE if the amp has 100amps of fusing on it use a 100amp fuse on the line going from battery to amp b) if the amp has NO fusing ON board fuse to the recommendated fusing! IE my saz2000 it is recommended to fuse it with a 200amp fuse! remember from battery to battery fuse to the wires limits! no need to restrict valuable current! Make sense?

I'd second the comments from above. *reading, just not everytime an update happens, you had an answer before I saw the question that was spot on so no clarification was needed although I just did.

you're right about the IB stuff , you just try to make your whole door as stiff as 3/4 mdf that is braced every x inches , and 100% airtight is something a door will never be eighter . so aim for as airtight and stiff as possible . plans look solid !

Thank you for the comments BASSMASTER, I was begining to think nobody on here was even looking anymore. PLEASE nag and nitpick EVERYTHING I post pictures of. I REALLY like the input from people that have installed WAY more stereos than me, As i know you guys have already been there done that so to speak. I don't mind peoples comments or just idle chit chat in MY biuld log as I think most people only look at the pictures anyways, thats why I post alot of them. Anyways These where my first door pods, and as soon as we started talking about speakers in our other theards, I realized the hole was probably ALOT of my problem, CHOKING the speaker. I will open these ones up as much as I can , But will be building ones for the 8" midbass soon and will make them a more open backed design. I was ASSUMING a door was a IB was didn't know how to pry the awnser out of you guys, I guess EVERYBODY just assumes I should know what they know. I have some 16-14 gauge aluminum sheet metal (i will post pics) that I will be using over the holes after doing the Butyl rope and a LITTLE Damplifier on the outside panel. Then after covering the holes(except for the midbass hole) with the aluminum I will do some Damplifier where needed and then I have the Luxury Liner Pro (CCF and MLV) I will put on last before installing the door panel. I will be making the 8" midbass pod flater with the door and will mushroom (flare) the bottom of pod more so I can get LESS choking and more opening into the door cavity. IF the LLP doesn't decouple the door panel enough and the panel still resonates I will add mass to the panel or add more foam to decouple it better. Thanks again for the input BASSMASTER, as I am following your que's on my front stage at this point.

hey bro , working hard I see ! hate to be nag , but I got some tips for you . in the first picture , all that wood in the back or most of it should not be there , what you got now is a very small box with a really big hemholz chamber . It should be way more open , also it would be better to bolt your kick-pod directly to the door with the help of a few extra rings . and dampen the door itself inside the door and then seal the door up by sealing all the holes exept for the waterdrainage with aluminum strips(for the bigger holes) and dynamat , creating an (close to) sealed enclosure of 1 to 2 cuft , whitch will allow you to cross your mid even lower and sound good ! make the doorpanel a bit more stiff/heavy with damplifier/dynamat or bitumus against resonations hope you don't think of me as an ass now

I'm a little biased when it comes to IA but DC also make a very decent subwoofer! For me go with the DP and support the SSA Store!

Take your sketch and take what KU40 gave you and draw it out!

Sounds great guys ... M5, Our conversation is over sir. Thank you for your time.

I admitted that just so you would Please get out of my build log. You havent give me any suggestions. just bla,bla,bla. If you think you are better than me ... That challenge is still open.

I'd be really careful on those stetsoms when you get in the upper power. They don't seem right to me and quite a few others including Sean, chop. So what amp is it that yeabuddy is getting?

I've had my amps mounted to my enclosure for YEARS. There is NOTHING wrong with doing this. Please dont give advice that could potentially ruins someone's equipment. Just because for some miracle you never had a problem doesnt mean that someone else will. It all depends on the amp build quality.

My ass did a 184.9 yesterday.

um no i think you build the box then pick the sub... lol no shit.

all in all, brandon daily go with his idea and sue his ass for the cost of the wood you wasted. lol use winisd and see.

no, its not just a port thread. maybe to you. its about helping an SSA member when he needs it.

With those specs and the subsonic set at 25hz, you have to be playing war of the worlds shit to even get near over-excursion.