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Eh at least he spelled my name right; your entitled to your opinion Stealth, express it as you wish. OP: There really is no "Best" song for a certain woofer, you need to look at all parts of your installation to see what songs will perform best, it's subjective too ie. people like the sound (or feel) of different frequencies so there is no good answer we can give you.

Small Town Audiophile... if you still haven't gotten the answer you're looking for....

Dearest stealth, You've worn out your welcome and inflicted my wrath. You may not talk to our users, our moderators or our administrators or owners the way you have done in your very, very short stay here. In other words....

Ever heard the saying "Six of one, half dozen of the other"? Very applicable here. There is no difference between a 1ohm load on each amp individually and strapping them at 2ohm. It's the same thing.

Are you using external amplifiers? I'm too lazy to look up if that HU has both an antenna REM output and amplifier REM output. But if so, and you are using external amplifiers, you may have the REM for the amplifiers connected to the antenna lead instead of the amplifier lead. Anytime you change to a source other than radio the antenna output will "turn off" it's output, which would turn off your amplifiers. If this is the case, rewire your REM wire to the amplifier output wire rather than antenna output wire.

Don't strap them at .5 ohm. You're just asking to fry the amps. That's the same as .25 ohm each.

you can look on the internet and find the old IASCA test cds, FOCAL reference disc, SHEFFIELD LABS, USACI test and tune disc. Disc like these will give you all the range any stereo can handle. (SQ and SPL) My Favorite is the Focal Reference disc, not cheap, but then again, worth it !!! If you really want to test your system to its limits, get you a VERY GOOD recorded pipe organ music disc. You will locate all your problems in a matter of minutes. Just a suggestion, Hope this helps ...

Where are those notes now? Doesn't look like you retained much info.

Nobody claim to know more than anybody or to be anyones friend on here, stop getting your panties in a bunch because people disagree with you. Its just a forum and reality, it happens (nobody has to be on your side or agree with you all the time, thats just what it is). I could go on further but no point, you let your true emotions just show and that was enough for you (if I knew everything I wouldnt be on here ).

Stealth, please chill out, name calling and being combative is not how we run things here. There is nothing wrong with a spirited debate or disagreement as long as people keep their heads and use factual information and sometimes have concrete examples to back up their statements. Take Impious' (Brad) posts in topics of disagreement, he goes point by point and throughly addresses each thing with experience (not just saying he has experience), the science or laws behind things, and sometimes factual calculations and examples to support his argument. I am not at all saying everyone needs to be as knowledgeable and skilled as Impious (if that were the case we would have less then 10k posts on here ), but we strongly prefer people take a much more scientific approach to each and every topic or question. THAT is what really sets the SSA forum apart and above all other copy-cats, plain and simple. People get pissed at ///M5 (Sean) all the time, but he is extremely consistent on working towards taking a logical and scientific approach to every problem or topic presented, that is the only way to really head in the right direction to reach the desired goal, what ever it may be. This above quoted post is very inaccurate. Install includes the enclosure/box and all equipment. The vehicle's resonant frequency will have a great deal to do with the end result. The positioning of the box (also part of install) will effect the end result. The gain settings, the HU settings, crossover settings, processor settings (if there is one), sound deadening applications and amounts, port and cone firing direction (also install), and so on. In reality, there should be no one single most important thing. Every aspect that can be controlled, with in reason and/or budget, along with how they effect each other, needs to be taken into consideration when working towards extracting maximum performance regardless of the focus or purpose of the install. Consider in the SPL game where people with far lesser expensive and lower power installs are putting up just as good if not better numbers then people who just think >> big cone + big amp = autowin. The first group of people are taking much more into consideration and using all parts they can to their advantage. All of this has to be combined with testing in the particular vehicle/install.

considering he siad money isn't a factor I would say go with the saz3500 for a few reasons 1. customer support 2. reliability 3. you can talk to the owner direcly and get experiened help 4. in the event something happens to the amp you could get a free one with-in a week (knock on wood) 5. sundown all day all the time! lol! 6. sundown is the best bang for your buck for reliability 7. please view these threads to see what the saz3500 can do. Uniform Amp Clamp Test - SSA Car Audio Forum AMPLIFIER POWER TESTING - SSA Car Audio Forum Testing all the SAZ amps - SSA Car Audio Forum SAZ-3500D / AQ-3500D Side-By-Side - SSA Car Audio Forum please understnad and ask ALL questions as needed regarding the amp and or setup related!

first of all welcome to the forum! this is one of the best forums to learn from! now first let me ask you some question! 1. is this system going to be for comps? or just a daily system to wow the women, 2. what vehicle is this all going into? 3. how much do you PLAN to spend and we can go from there!

Stealth you've been here for 3 years and still haven't learned anything. The amount of time you've been a member on a forum does NOT increase your knowledge, there is no osmosis taking place here you have to actually learn the heard way.

One question for you Stealth, if the enclosure is not part of the install then why would you even have one in the first place? You gotta install the sub into something, which is the enclosure. You gotta install the enclosure into something, which is the vehicle and so-on.

WOW !!! this was a fun one ...

the driver allows you to tune lower, the box would be most important in this case. Yes, but in reference to what he's asking, it's not driver specific. yeah but you mentioned install and vehicle will determine everything which is of course false information. the box would be more important than any of those in terms of hittin lows. The enclosure is part of the install, no? nope. the enclosure is the enclosure. do you just install the box, no you design it and then build it. it would be part of an install if it was a premade box. And how is the box not part of the actual install ? Are you towing the box behind the vehicle ? You have some very skewed ideas.... so your saying nothing is specific....... everything that goes in is called an install. so it doesnt matter what sub, electrical, amp, box, tuning is all generalized by install because they are all being installed. lol Stealth, in general your opinion doesn't matter, at all. You've been consistently wrong on the MOST basic ideas. I think (and im not the only one) you need to stop being the know it all arseho (with indeed the wrong information) and listen for a change. The enclosure is part of the install, the peak frequency of your car changes everything, example; my box was tuned to 32hz i peaked at 38hz. simple You sir, are an idiot.

Years ago sure, it just got leap frogged. Plus in general Apple makes NOTHING that I have any interest in.

no, so you are saying the box is just part of the install? so what about tuning? or is that just part of installing it? what dumbasses you guys are. im one of the only ones here that actually tried to help the OP and all you fags are just jagging on his thread talking shit. and john holmes this whole time? fukka you only been here for like 2 days. get real

No, you get real. You've had your warnings, and now you're banned for 3-days.

of course its part of what your installing, but when you say "part of the install" you generally mean how its installed, elects, and so forth. a box is more than that. it cant just be generalized into that big of category. trust me, most of you guys bashing are newbs. ill just leave it at that. who said that an in car peak frequency doesnt change. lol not me. ive got more experience in here than all of you newbs with systems and setups..... you know why i always bash you guys?? because seriously guys like jaycee, alton, duran, julian etc. etc i can go on are all noobs that jag all over the mods and agree with them to bash me because you dont know shit yourself and are trying to get COOL points with the mods. this whole forum is turning into noobs. when i first got here, id read up on good material and took notes on great threads but nowadays it seems that every post is by some dummy who dont know shit, talking shit.,

wow the first person to give info on the topic other than me and denim. good job. everyone on this thread was just talking shit to the op before they tried to talk shit about me. +!

haha, dont get me started on you. you= ..... also acceptable is

haha, dont get me started on you. you= ..... also acceptable is Hey bro I totally dig your steez, could you like send me pics of your cock and shit?

Please don't bash me for this. I want to know why my ssa xcon sucks at any frequency's above 60hz. I know they are mainly meant for deep bass, but every other sub ive ever owned could hit the 60-100hz range well, even my last 1000rms 15" i used to have. I know this sub is not those subs, but why is a sub that meant for SQ not able to hit those frequency's I really like the fill in there, even that some of you may think its pointless or dumb. also to add is that better component speakers would help but it would take like 6 8" woofers to get the feel i wan't and thats way way to much money for me.