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Here are some songs along with what hz they hit. Thought you guys would enjoy. ================================================== Artist: Song: Freq: ================================================== Artist: 20 fingers Song: Lick It Freq: 48-51-53hz Artist: 3 6 Mafia Song: Prophet Possee Freq: 37-40hz (it takes 50 seconds for the bass to start hitting) Song: Late Night Tip Freq: 43-40-37-34-32hz Artist: A Perfect Circle Song: Lullaby Freq: Starts at 27, then jumps around the 27-40hz range, then settls down at 29-40hz, it jumps around the frequencies a lot Artist: Aaliyah Song: Try Again Freq: 53-40hz (Gets all the way down to 40hz for some .2 seconds) Artist: Ace of Base Song: The Sign Freq: 45-51hz Song: Waiting for Magic [Total Remix 7"] Freq:? Artist: Akon Song: Belly Dancer (Bananza) Freq: 40-43-51hz Song: I Wanna "Love" You Freq: 37-48hz Artist: Baby D ft Intoxicated Song: Slammin Cadillac Doors Freq: 45hz Artist: Beyonce Song: Deja Vu Freq: 51-59-48-45-43hz Song: Irreplaceable Freq: 57-53-51-40hz Song: Ring the Alarm Freq: 45-48hz Song: Upgrade U 51-48hz Artist: Blaque Song: Bring it all to me Freq:? Artist: Boys II Men Song: 4 Seasons 73-64-59-51-45-43-40hz Song: I'll Make Love To You Freq: 51-57-64hz Song: On Bended Knee Freq: 37-40hz Song: Water Runs Dry Freq: 52-62-67-75hz Artist: Brian Adams Song: Here I Am Freq: 51, then goes down to 37 at times Artist: Buck Cherry Song: Crazy Bitch Freq: 40-43-45-48hz Artist: Bun B Song: Bun Freq: 43hz, 30hz it first starts out at 43hz....and has the 30hz bass like every couple seconds. The longer note peaks at 43hz Artist: Busta Rhymes Song: Touch It Freq: 43-45-48-51hz Song: Touch It (Remix) Freq:? Artist: Camrom Song: Killa Cam Freq: 41hz, 51hz, 61hz, 92hz Artist: Chamillionaire Song: Ridin Dirty (Remix) Freq: 48-51-57-59hz Artist: Ciara Song: Goodies Freq: 51-53hz Artist: Daddy Yankee Song: Rompe (G-unit Remix) Freq: Starts with 40hz, then music is at 37-40-43-45hz Artist: David Banner Song: Play Freq: 40-37-51hz Artist: Dem franchise boys Song: Black Tee Freq: 27-29-32-34 Song: Ridin Rims Freq: ~38hz, 57hz, 74hz Artist: DJ Billy E/The Mekanik Song: Bass Mechanic Freq:51-53hz, hits 40hz for half second Artist: DJ billy-e Song: beatz 4 my van Freq: 31hz (low note), 42hz (high note) Artist: DJ Unk Song: Back it up Freq: 34-37-40-43hz Artist: DMX Song: Trina Moe Freq: 45-48hz (just the beginng thump) Artist: Do or Die Song: Do You Freq: 51-48-40hz Artist: E-40 Song: Im Da Man Freq: peaks at 42hz Song: U and **** Freq: 40-43-45hz Artist: Eamon Song: Fuck It Freq: 37-45hz (the part b4 the chorus where he says "i wanna let you know how i feel") Artist: Eminem Song: Kill You Freq: 67-59hz Song: Shake That Freq: 37-40-43-45hz Artist: Fat Joe Song: Lean Back Freq: 48-51-53hz Artist: Gorilla Zoe Song: Hood Nigga Freq: 53hz Freq:37-40-32-29-27hz (29hz is the more constant note) Song: Money Man Freq: 36hz, 42hz Artist: Gorrilaz Song: El Manana Freq: 48-51hz Song: Clint Eastwood Freq: 37-40-51hz Artist: Gucci Mane Song: Hold That Thought Freq: 32-34-37hz Song: Pyrex Pot Freq: 41hz, 54hz, 83hz Song: Thats My Hood Freq: ~41hz Song: Trap House Freq: 39hz, 60hz, 77hz Artist: Huey Song: Pop, Lock and Drop it Freq: 53-51-48-45-40hz Artist: Janet Jackson Song: All Night (Dont Stop) Freq: 34-40-37-32hz Song: Someone to call my lover (remix) Freq: 29-34-37-40-45-48hz Artist: Jermain Dupri Song: Welcome to Atlanta (Coast to Coast Remix) Freq: 51-45-40-48-37hz Artist: Jibby Song: King Kong Freq: 32-35-45-48-50hz Artist: Jody Breezy Song: Dippin' Freq: 51-48hz Artist: Justin Timberlake Song: My Love Freq: 51-43-40hz Artist: K-doe AKA K-deezy Song: In My Hood Freq: 48-45hz Artist: Lil Jon Song: Act a fool 57-45-43-40hz Song: Bitch Freq: 45-48-51-53hz Song: BME Click Freq: 45-43-37-32hz Song: Get Low Freq: 32-34-37-40hz Song: Snap ya Fingers Freq: 37-40-43hz Song: What You Gonna Do Freq: 57hz at beginning then gets down to 43-40-37hz Artist: Lil Scrappy Song: Money in the bank Freq: 43hz Artist: Lil' Wayne Song: Go DJ Freq: 65, 42hz Song: I Feel Like Dying Freq: 44hz Song: Stunnin like my daddy Freq:40-43-45-48-51hz Artist: Lil' Wyte Song: Get High to This Freq: 37-40-48-51-57-67hz (37hz stays kinda constant) Song: Hoods Run Down. Freq: 40-34-27-25-22hz (just the first "bass test" part) Artist: Loko Ft Bun B & Dj Unk Song: Like Me Freq: 44, 65, 56, 32hz Artist: Ludacris Song: Act a fool Freq: 53-51-53-59-hz Song: Blueberry Yum Yum Freq: 34-37-40-51hz Song: Grew Up a Screw Up Freq: 43-45hz Song: Lovers and Friends Freq: 40-43-45hz Song: Splash Waterfalls Freq: 53-51-48-40-37hz Artist: Kanye West Song: Touch the Sky Freq: the low note is around ~41hz maybe a bit lower more like 38 Artist: Knoc-turn'al Song: The Way I am Freq: 45-48hz Artist: Mc Magic Song: Sexy Lady Freq: 37-40-48hz Artist: Mary J. Blidge ft Stat Quo Song: Be Without You (Remix) Freq: 48-45-40hz Artist: Master P Song: I Need Dubs Freq: 37-43hz Song: Pass Me da Weed (friday soundtrack) Freq: 37-40hz Artist: Nelly Song: Grillz Freq: 48-45hz Artist: Neyo Song: Sexy Love Freq: 51-57-48hz Song: So SickFreq: 59-57-53-51hz Artist: NORE ft Nina Sky and Daddy Yankee Song: Oye mi Canto (Remix) Freq: 64-57-53, 37hz for some .2 seconds Artist: Outkast Song: ATLiens Freq: 40-43-45hz Song: Speakerbox Intro (featured on the RF H2 hummer demo) Freq: 48-51-45hz Artist: Paul Wall Song: Internet Going Nutz Freq: 40-37-25hz Artist: Pimp C Song: Knockin Doors Down Freq: 59-57-51-45-43-40hz Artist: Pitbull Song: Bojangles Freq: 59-64hz (hits 43-48hz for .2 seconds) Artist: Power supply Song: My Bass hits harder (Specifically looking at the part around 2:17 when the old man comes on) Freq: Starts at 34-37-40hz... At 2:17 it goes to 48-51-37-34hz Artist: Project Pat Song: Break Da Law Freq: 43-48-51hz Artist: Rick Ross Song: White House Freq: 37-40-51-57hz Artist: Sarina Paris Song: Look at Us Freq: 37-43-45-48hz Artist: Snap Song: Rhythm is a dancer 2003 remix- (this one has 3 significantly "different sections", im mainly interested in the second one after he says "check this out" but if possible could i get info for each section (the first and third sound similar so if they have the same properties no need to repeat) Freq: 57-53-45-48-40hz <~ 1st part 22-25-27-32-34-40hz <~ 2nd part Artist: Swishahouse ft Mike Jones Song: Holding That 9 Freq: 27-29-45hz Artist: T.I. Song: 24's Freq: 57--51-48hz Artist: Three 6 Mafia Song: You Scared pt. 2 Freq: ~33hz, 52hz Artist: Too Short Song: Dime a Dozen Freq: 39hz, 58hz Song: run up Freq: 37hz, 44hz Artist: Trae Song: No Money Freq: ~36hz Artist: trick daddy ft. T.I. Song: Beemers & Benzes Freq: ~32hz, 53hz, 63hz Artist: Trilltown Mafia Song: In The Hood Freq: 53, 65, 44hz Artist: Will Smith Song: Nod Ya Head (Black Suits Comin) Freq: 34-37-48-51hz Song: Wild Wild West Freq: 37-40-43-45-48-51-53hz Artist: Ying Yang Twins Song: salt shaker Freq: ~39hz Artist: Youngbloodz Song: Ev'rybody Know Me Freq: 39hz, 53hz, 62hz, 81hz Song: Presidential Freq: 34-37-45-53hz Artist:Yo Gotti ft Lil Wayne Song: I Got 'Em Freq: 57-53-45-43-40hz Artist: Young Jeezy Song: Air Forces Freq: ~41hz Song: Hypnotize Freq: ~5 seconds of constant 37hz, drops to ~5 seconds of constant 34hz, and 51hz Song: J.E.E.Z.Y. Freq: 37-40-43hz Song: Trap or Die Freq: ~41hz Song: You Know What It Is Freq: 35hz, 55hz, 73hz Artist: Yung Joc Song: Do Ya bad Freq: 75-64-57-48hz Song: I Know You See It Freq: 32-34-37hz Artist: Yung Sean Song: Got My Trap Boomin' SNB by DJP Freq: 43hz

Can be checked with several programs Young Jeezy - Hypnotize freq: 32hz, 42hz, 54hz Young Jeezy - Still On It freq: peaks at 43hz Young Jeezy - You Know What It Is freq: 32hz, 44hz, 75hz Young Jeezy - J.E.E.Z.Y. freq: peaks at 44hz Young Jeezy - I Luv It freq: 32hz, 65hz, 78hz Young Jeezy - Go Getta freq: peaks at 46hz & peak at 64hz Young Jeezy - 3 A.M. freq: bass kick peaks at 50hz, the part after that: 75hz then 65hz Young Jeezy - I'm The Realest freq: peaks at 32hz, then 43hz Young Jeezy - Streets On Lock freq: peaks at 54hz Young Jeezy - Bury Me A G freq: peaks at 43hz, bassline: 52hz, 64hz, 66hz Young Jeezy - Dreamin freq: lowest is somewhere around 20hz, then 32hz, 54hz, 63hz, 72hz, 88hz Young Jeezy - Wha You Talkin About freq: intro bassline: 44hz, 65hz, 49hz, 75hz, 32hz Young Jeezy - Keep It Gangsta freq: 32hz, 25hz Young Jeezy - Mr. 17.5 freq: 54hz Young Jeezy - I Got Money freq: 54hz, 43hz, 62hz Young Jeezy - The Inspiration freq: 44hz, 55hz, 66hz, peaks at 45hz

That isn't really because they are "Long throw" in as much as the long throw typically requires a longer coil in the gap. Most manufacturers tend to use the overhung coil, which is a long coil one that extends beyond both ends of the gap, as it maintains a pretty linear BL, and it also increases powerhandling. But the downside is this longer coil raises the inductance of the driver and driver speed is pretty much dependent upon it's inductance. Here is a white paper on the subject... although it may be a bit over your head, you may gather some information on how a driver's function is affected by it's inductance. http://adireaudio.co...WooferSpeed.pdf The W0s are not actually "crisper" drivers, they are actually more distorted drivers... That is they have less linear BL (motor force) and less linear CMS (suspension compliance), creating distortions that are actually pleasing to many listeners. I know a lot of people like to rag on the W7, but it is actually a pretty impressive driver, with regards to innovative design and linearity. Like I said in the other thread, most people actually like distortions in the subbass and midbass regions. A couple quick (no pun intended) additional points to mention; Subbass frequencies are not "quick" frequencies. True subbass is not going to be "tight" and "crisp". It is, by it's very nature, slow and thick. When people attribute a subwoofer as being "tight" and "punchy", it's typically going to be because the subwoofer lacks sufficient low frequency extension/capabilities and/or a peak in the lower midbass frequencies giving it the appearance of being "quick". You can't make a 30hz note tight and crisp, properly reproduced it's simply not that type of tone. This is probably one of the reasons why you noted the "crispness" of the W0 in relation to the W7; The W7 has far more capability to reproduce the lower notes properly compared to the W0, so it was more correctly/strongly reproducing those slow, thick notes that the W0 probably lacked. And/or the W0 may have been a little more peaky in the lower midbass making it seem more tight and crisp simply as a function of it's frequency response. If a subwoofer has a peak in the lower octaves then those tight/quick midbass frequencies are going to have comparatively less output which will make the driver seem less snappy, again simply as a function of it's frequency response. It's not that the driver lacks adequate output in the lower midbass, it's just overwhelmed by the amount of lower subbass output. This is a typical problem with the long-throw supersubs that have no problem reproducing the frequencies in the lower register. People use an enclosure designed for a low anechoic F3 which, when placed in a car, become extremely bottom-heavy. There was a lot of talk about drivers like the old Brahma lacking upper frequency response when the simple matter of fact was that there was no physical or electrical reason for this to be the case. The users were simply installing the drivers in an enclosure that overemphasised the low frequencies so that the upper bass was comparatively much lower in volume. If you are noticing a trend, the issue is normally one of frequency response and not one of the actual ability to reproduce the tight/snappy/crisp frequencies. This same problem can be carried forward into midbass drivers. It could be that these long throw drivers are comparatively louder at lower frequencies where the lower-throw drivers weren't as capable which is making the snap/punch seem more subdued on the long-throw drivers. Also, Andy from JBL recently mentioned on DIYMA that snappy, punchy midbass depends also on flat response between 1kh - 4khz. This wasn't really something I had thought about before, but since reading that I've been spending more time really listening in my stereo and came to realize......he was right! If you look at that graph posted earlier you can see that the harmonics on many of the "snap" producing instruments extend into the several kilohertz range.

yes 1/4 20 is fine.

Looks like another steve meade killer lol

That's what I was thinking. Except I picture a sweet wood frame painted black and set off the wall about a 1/8". Then you could mount the roll above and pull through and cut. You can get super white paper rolls for next to nothing from B&H. Are you looking to do flat a screen or with a curve? Super White Paper I have used these rolls before for portrait work. Durable and very white. I did find this article on DIY paper screens and some of the pro's and cons. DIY Screens

You know, the metion of the Blues 6.5s made me think of the HAT Legatias, another small company started by SQ competitors. http://www.hybrid-audio.com/products.htm The Legatias have a really solid and somewhat aggressive midbass. I have never heard the Clarus series, but I understand they are solid as well. I do have to forewarn you though, their off axis extension is greatly exaggerated. I have read people boasting favorable dispersion up to 4K... just not so. You just can't defy the laws of physics, and while they do very well with their phase plug, don't expect true off axis response much above 2.5KHz where beaming begins to occur.

Almost there :

Clipping is transient, as is power output. And it can be eliminated. The amplifier is being overdriven on the peaks of the music, and as a result the top and bottom of the waveforms are cut off (which is why it's called clipping, the wave looks like the tops and bottoms were clipped off). This is bad because while this is occurring, the average power of the signal increases (it can double in the worst cases) which can overdrive the connected speakers. Yes, it is primarily a function of an improperly set gain, bass boost, boosting the signal with an EQ, overdriving the input of the amplifier with too much signal, etc. If you were experiencing clipping, it was likely a result of one of these being improperly set and reducing their level will alleviate the problem. How exactly were your system settings adjusted? What amplifier and headunit are you using?

Hey, just wanted to link you a few things to read IF you haven't already. http://caraudiomag.com/articles/mid-bass-response If you only read part of the next link, make sure to atleast read PAGE 4. http://www.reverse-engineering.info/Audio/bwl_eq_info.pdf And here's a chart thats great for printing out and keeping in your tuning arsenal.

I am starting to have a better and better tuned ear and I recognize most novices are going to prefer the distortion. PLUS throw road noise into the equation and I really start to think things are missing in the 80-250 range. I have a few more spots to deaden/barrier and a couple body cavitys I am going to block with foam thats about as good on road noise as my poor honda is going to get short of buying quieter tires. I am starting to understand where I went wrong with the Aura's. the shallow slope down low on the Aura was letting to much lows go throw the mid drivers at high volumes, and the over lap from the 15" BTL was not allowing me to hear the strain. I will take more time setting my slopes before even turning the sub on this time. PLUS I think I had too shallow of a slope on the crossovers thus creating the extra distortion/harmonics and my novice ear keep wanting that sound. BUT now that I am REALLY tuning in my ear and I am REALLY liking the cleaner sound with the 18db slope!!! I am starting to think I like the sterile sound alitte more now that I am stuck with the crappy 10" Sony subs I have in my doors right now. I honestly think I may already be happy with the Q alignment I had with the Arua's IF i had the right xover settings. I came up with a Qtc of .5 in my current door volume of around 2 cu ft. I came up with a Q alignment in the .7 range in a .6 cu ft range SO I am thinking I am going to build a .6 cu ft sealed box and do some testing with the on good Aura. I think this will help me learn ALOT. ALSO on another note, with the sub set to 50 hz with an 18db slope makes me hear a few rattles/buzzes I wasn't hearing before. I guess I'm not done sound proofing after all. Sorry to thread jack your shit Cobra but I though you might find it relevent. And For you Seth if you are wondering about the thread I am refering to, heres a link. http://www.soundsolu...midbass-driver/ One last thing, Can I download the Box build Pro for free off the internet Or do I have to buy it?

That isn't really because they are "Long throw" in as much as the long throw typically requires a longer coil in the gap. Most manufacturers tend to use the overhung coil, which is a long coil one that extends beyond both ends of the gap, as it maintains a pretty linear BL, and it also increases powerhandling. But the downside is this longer coil raises the inductance of the driver and driver speed is pretty much dependent upon it's inductance. Here is a white paper on the subject... although it may be a bit over your head, you may gather some information on how a driver's function is affected by it's inductance. http://adireaudio.com/Files/WooferSpeed.pdf The W0s are not actually "crisper" drivers, they are actually more distorted drivers... That is they have less linear BL (motor force) and less linear CMS (suspension compliance), creating distortions that are actually pleasing to many listeners. I know a lot of people like to rag on the W7, but it is actually a pretty impressive driver, with regards to innovative design and linearity. Like I said in the other thread, most people actually like distortions in the subbass and midbass regions.

So you have the full range driver running at 250 hertz and the midbass running to 500? There is the reason for muddieness when you raised the crossover point to 500Hz. You are likely having serious cancellation issues for one thing. Also, the sterility down low is due to one of a couple things... The low QTS, and/or cancellation. Cancellation could be occurring because of the door rattle or the phase relationship between the 2 midbass drivers, or possibly due to the relationship between the overlapping midrange to midbass frequencies, coupled with their issues that revolve around multiple pointsources. One big thing I see in your previous install that you liked is a BIG deal. It is something i NEVER take for granted. Even if i will be forced to suffer some shortcomings brought about based on the install, I always, always, always want my front stage drivers right on top of each other. I want a single pointsource. The benefits are simply overwealming, with regards to image, and realism. Why do you think that all home speaker arrangements are based on this platform? By keeping the drivers close you accomplish 2 things. One, the phase relationship on each side is really damn close. And second, when i am listening to a guitar or a female vocal I don't notice the vocal or instrument plays half down below my eyes, and the other half above my dashboard. We can work this by angling the tweeters, and admittedly I may manipulate the pillar a bit with some heat, or I may just go ahead and try another attempt at glassing... and admittedly I really suck a fat bag at glassing... I hate it. But the Mille's midrange is frikken sexy when tubes open them up. If the door is rattling you need to address this area first. Also, you need to be sure the airspace behind the driver is completely close off from the front of the driver. Next, if that doesn't clean things up, try swapping the terminals on the passenger side driver. While this is not going to truly fix a phase issue, it will get us heading in the right direction. One other thought, a little out of order, try to steepen the upper crossover rolloff, say from 12db to 18db or even 24db per octave. Once the SLS gets to about 600Hz it rolls off pretty quickly, but it peaks again. Slow slopes may be introducing the driver's weekpoint. Keep in mind that the crossover cut off is not immediate, it is gradual. If you start a 11DB slope at 500Hz, and the driver is delivering 112DB, the driver will still be delivering 100DB at 1000Hz, and 88DB at 2000Hz... still fairly significant. The same set up with an 18db slope @ 500Hz with the driver delivering the same 112DB will see an output of 94Db at 1000 Hz and then the driver is delivering 76Db at 2000Hz,,, Likewise a 24Db slope at 500Hz with the driver delivering 112DB will see an output of 87db at 1000Hz and 63Hz at 2000Hz. The numbers look significant in that regard, but consider 3DB is 1/2 the measured DB readings and 6 is a perceived DB shift of 1/2. Now, back to those drivers on the dash... The fairly high inductance makes me believe these things are rather muddy and disoriented up top. Further, the simply do not have the displacement needed to keep up with the midbass drivers. Third, up high like that you are also suffering a ton of refraction, creating phase relationship issues all over the place, as well as excessive brightening of the upper treble region. I might try cleaning some of this up, just for testing sake, by getting several towels out and covering your dash, windows, and a pillars... basically any hard reflective surfaces near the drivers. Be sure to do this when you are testing out the things I suggest, so as to help eliminate them as being an issue... or at least reducing the effect their shortcomings may have on the rest of the system. My thought is, fix the rattle issue, seal off the front of the driver from the rear, and play with phase relationships. You might be able to try building an aperiodic membrane to house the rear of the drivers. I have seen people use a couple sections of screen and sandwich a bunch of polyfil in between them, then cover the back of the drivers. Maybe that will give you a bit more perceived midbass impact. I am thinking that since the SLS is a very good driver for your intended application, you should really try working on the details surrounding it that are more likely the issue then the driver... you know, spend less money, but at the same time you will be getting an education on how to manipulate speakers, isolate issues, and how the surroundings affect the way the speaker behaves in an installation. There is no guarantee that the driver itself is not the issue. It is a fairly linear driver with a low total Q, making it fairly sterile. I like to say drivers like this evoke emotion more then aggressive impact, but it has decent displacement and output... fairly common among drivers several time's it's cost. But reproduction is objective and one's personal enjoyment of the reproduced music is subjective.

I think something that is important is that you can't have even pathlengths in the car to your ears, so localization becomes almost impossible to avoid. I prefer to have everything on front of me that I can. If I could figure a way to get 3 feet of cabinet in my dash i would have my subs there too, but I can't. But, to mount them low in the doors shouldn't cause them to stage low, as midbass is not easily located on the vertical plane. I have a feeling that this localization is more likely an issue with your midrange crossover point, or perhaps something hindering the output of the driver... sorry, but I haven't seen any real info on your midrange or crossover points. Overlapping crossover points can create cancellation and possibly localization issues. One thing to remember, EBP is a specification, or to be more accurate, a formula that you can't really use to determine midbass or midrange driver alignments. Based simply on their high FS they will always become "ported" favoring drivers. I am getting the feeling that you are more interested in a smooth silky driver, rather then a dry driver. As I mentioned in the other post, I am not terribly certain that the Anarchy will fit the bill for what you are looking at. While i expect more output from it then the SLS, I expect it to be similar in regards to how dry it will perform. Like I said in the other thread, you may want to be looking for more like a CDT ES-06 or perhaps a totally dedicated midbass driver like their ES-06+. Maybe Rainbow Pro-Fi Kicks... But you need to work on sealing up the doors, and getting your crossover settings right. It may be more helpful if you could get a single post with all the pertinent info in it. Crossover points, drivers, placement of the drivers including where they point to, how they are mounted (on an MDF panel, or direct to sheet metal, or plastic adapters, etc), HU settings, amplifier settings, any sound deadening, and EQ (if you have just low/mid/high settings on your HU, those settings as well please), phase of the drivers, and have you played with phase... stick everything you can think of in a single post, as I have a hard time searching the threads and keeping it all in order in my head as it is so random and disorganized. Pics of driver location and relation to panel openings would also be terribly helpful. Also, include information on all gear you have as well, model numbers and the like. It would be great if you could give us an idea of what kind of money you have budgeted to the whole midbass system, including but not limited to deadening, amplifier, and drivers. Finally, let us know if you can fabricate MDF rings or adapters, if you have any opposition to building aperiodic membranes for the drivers, etc. I have a lot to do today, but I will try to help as best as i can either tonight, or maybe tomorrow...

Man it sounds like you are going about this right, good luck and cant wait for this build to get off the ground .

I agree with porkchop, you would be better of with a custom made box (if you can find someone locally to make you a box it can be done for under $50-100, dont go to a stereo shop). Just my .02 Honestly someone on here or me can help you design and give you step by step info to do it and you could build your own for under $50, just a thought.

Pictures or lies.

I always loved Cadillacs, enjoy it . Sounds like your headed in a good direction with your plans so far.

What are you running on the amp?

Excellent choice on front stage. That is nearly exactly what has been used for two SSA vehicles, and possibly a third soon.

thats not too bad but still a little pricey how do they sound?? It is actually a good price.

Check this link out: SAX-100.4D New [sAX-100.4D] - $365.00 : dB-r Electronics, Online Store

Definantly in the near future I wouldnt mind starting on my home theatre setup and wouldnt mind giving these a try.

I have JBL 2118H's, but for a partially different reason. If you are looking to purchase quality performing pro audio, the B&C are generally good. Off hand 18sound and JBL also produce well performing higher sensitivity drivers. They can get spendy though.

It depends if you want to go the cheap route or expensive route, when it comes to PA speakers most will go the cheap route when going with multiple speaker set ups (2 or 4 per or more per door). Now if you want to go the expensive route then you will probably just doing one speaker and tweeter per door. Its not that expensive but a single driver will and can cost you up from $100-200, depending on your needs/power and size. Brands include: Faital Pro, Whip Audio, EV, Selenium, Eminence, Soundstream, Hertz SV/ST Line, Audiopipe, Power Acoustik, Beyma, B&C, Crescendo just to name a few. www.usspeaker.com www.parts-express.com These are a few sites that I use to get my speakers and look at different brands and selections.

Yeah that 300A should be fine by the battery since your highs amp wont be pulling that much amperage when playing and your sub amp wont be at 300A all the time neither.

I would run all batteries parallel instead of having each one ran to the alternator individually.

and welcome to the forum. If you already have the amp then no it wont be too much for the Fi Q. What coil version did you get D1 or D2?

Hopefully you got the D1 version so you can wire it in series to 2 ohms and get the most out of your amp: POWER ACOUSTIK CPT1-2000 RMS Power Output @ 4 Ohms : 670 watts x 1 RMS Power Output @ 2 Ohms : 870 watts x 1 Wire D1 sub like this:

No problem at all

500 watts wont make a difference to ear or meter (if so by maybe a tenth of a db if that). I wouldnt do it and just save up for what you really want or the power you really need.

Mainstream FTL