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Damn the god comment on the cake was hilarious........

first, you need to define better.. Do you want it to be loud? Will the SSD's be 15's as well? Do you have around 10 cuft for a box for the 2 15's?

Set the subsonic 2-3 hz below the tuning of your box, if it is ported. If it's a sealed box, you don't need the subsonic on. I initially set the lowpass around 70 hz, then go up or down depending on how the sub sounds at that level as well as how it blends with the front speakers. If the fronts can play lower, it's beneficial to lower the lowpass on the sub. Phase at 0, but can turn that anywhere to match the phase with the front speakers. You cannot hurt the sub by moving this dial. Leave bass boost at 0. You don't need it, and it will only harm things if used.

Some people don't mind paying a little more for better quality stuff. I pay very good money for my gear, because I expect it to perform at a very high rate, for a long time. I don't mind spending more money on my amps than you have in your whole system. In fact, the majority of my gear, in individual pieces, cost more then your whole system. The only thing by itself that didn't is my sub amp, which happens to be a Cadence ZRS amp. When you stop and think about it, that says a lot. I have $600 in subs, $900 in front stage amp, $1000 in front components, and a $150 Cadence sub amp. Did you catch that? If someone spends that kind of money in an SQ system and buys a $150 sub amp, that speaks volumes about the quality of that amp. Perhaps it isn't worth it to you, but to me it really is. I have exactly what I want, it sounds amazing, looks great, delivers a clean, pure sound, and it is extremely dependable. Perhaps people just want nicer things. Just because you can't afford it, doesn't mean that others can't, and it doesn't mean they shouldn't. Cheap isn't better... in fact, it is usually a sign of cost cutting measures... or a possible concern over long term dependability. Also, not a single amp listed will break the budget at all. Everybody's suggestions fell right within, or just a shade over the OP's set budget. Nobody is recommending anything based on a name, the above suggested amplifiers are all really solid performers at great prices. There is no stigma associated with any brand listed, they are all small company units. Nobody is recommending JL because of their big name status, they are recommending amplifiers they use, or have seen in use, that offer rated or better, very reliable, and dependable power. No offense, but I would never put an Audiopipe amp in my car. I have never seen any testing done on the amplifier at all, and as far as reliability, it hasn't been out long enough to prove that it is reliable and dependable, and frankly it is pretty dirty power. Besides, your sig says the gear is coming soon... so I have to ask, are you basing your suggestion on first hand knowledge, or just blindly suggesting gear? Finally, your opinion on the matter is not the only one that counts. In fact, seeing as how you recommend the same amp all the time, it is important that the OP realize this and consider the suggestion accordingly. This is a forum with varying opinions, and experiences. There is no "/thread" like you suggest. And as far as the dickhead comment; You might need to grow up a little. It is about that time. If you are old enough to have your driver's license, you should really act like it. Well said Mine would of been a tad more futile Audioque is a very quality brand, can't go wrong. The remote gain control and clipping indicator is definitely a plus.

That looks the same as a double chamber reflex (ABC), if so you have 2 tuning frequencies ~ an octive apart with a dip in response between them. One chamber is usually ~ twice the size of the other and the volume of both chambers is your net (target) volume. Also, all three ports are the same length. According to Weems and Koonce It's supposed to sound more like a sealed box but with better low extension than you'd expect from a sealed box of a similar size. I've always wanted to try one,but never did.

Change the ground for both units if you want to ground them together or find a better way to ground the EQ since once you installed it you got engine noise. Check this thread out as well:

Aperiodic Bi-Chamber Here's a good sample image that explains the basic properties.

Thanks for the thumbs up guys. Working on the software right now. If all goes as planned, expected introductory pricing is going to be about half of the russian version

You need an adjustable subsonic filter before you even think about buying a speaker from us...otherwise you're going to kill stuff. Know what I am saying?