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Please do take a moment to read this topic and not just look at the pictures, as some of the photos will not make sense if you skip over what I try to say. I am few days behind on getting this pictures posted up, but life and all that goes with it has been in the way. Anyway, a MASSIVE thank you goes out to Don at http://www.Sounddeadenershowdown.com. I had initially hoped to use the SDS product line on the little Mazda with Don's guidance, but he went far and away above the call of duty and took 3, yes 3, very long work days out of his schedule to help me along the way. This was an excellent learning experience for me in terms of the physics of how the acoustics effect the car around me. Don was ever patient with my endless questions and wanted to go the extra mile and spend the extra time to make sure we got it right. Not to mention Don's supply of room temperature orange Gatorade that kept us from dehydrating in the process. I will not get into the demise of the sled (Mercedes Brabus 300ce) at this time. I have 10+ years of college behind me, and I have always learned faster when using practical applications of the concepts being discussed instead of just extensive reading. In this case, physically having Don there explaining and showing me, step by step, section by section of the car, how and why and where to apply the SDS system was priceless! As you will see in the many following pictures, this is much more of a system, and the full effects were staggering. I say system because the CLD, CCF, Butyl Rope and MLV all have a purpose and work together to vastly change the vibrations in the metal and interior parts, along with sound transmission both into and out of the car. Don has figured out a number of very nifty tricks for installing, one most importantly is the fact that every inch of CCF and MLV can be pulled right out of the car, which you will see below in the pictures. We started in the rear hatch floor area, then worked our way forward on the floor up through the firewall, lastly working on the doors and vertical surfaces. I have dampened a handful of cars in the past, heck, I nearly covered every inch of the wifey's old Civic with butyl tiles, many sections with multiple layers, but the performance was not like this. Once we were done, I was grinning like a fool, and opening and closing the door in disbelief as to the difference. The level of silence inside the vehicle is really something, almost cocoon like in nature as your ears take a moment to adjust to the change in noise level. In this rare case, I am not the man behind the curtain, I let Don (former large format pro-photographer) photograph the process, so all these photos are credit of the SDS camera. As for the audio in the car, disregard that at the moment as it is still a 7 year old fully stock Pioneer system as I have had the Mazda only a few weeks and I am spending much of my non-daddy time on the road or away from somewhere appropriate to install audio. The funny thing is, how much better the stock audio system preforms. We were both taken back for a moment once we had finished up, I joked that I might just leave it stock. (Though I did lay down power, speaker wire, and RCA's under the carpet for the impending install which is another topic). This was a great deal of work, more then I had anticipated, but so worth it. I keep telling Don on the phone the additional benefits I keep finding out, the latest being that my 4 year old son goes to sleep much easier now due to greatly reduced road noise levels. Again, and huge Thank You to Don for all the time, answers, assistance and effort that went into this install. Details of the install log: Vehicle: 2003 Mazda Protege5 5-speed Materials used: SDS Closed Cell Foam SDS Mass Loaded Vinyl SDS Constrained Layer Dampener HH-66 Vinyl Adhesive Velcro with dual pressure sensitive adhesive Tools: Silver Sharpie Painters Tape Large Shears Scissors At least a gallon of Mineral Spirits Denatured Alcohol Utility Knife Scalpel Razor Blades Panel Poppers Heat Gun Scraper Stop watch Photos: 1,2: Hatch Floor before start of install: 3,4: Begin of tear down: 5,6,7: Removal of some asphalt on hatch floor:

I'm in the works of a 3k Watt build. This a first for me. I've been scouring the net for the best deals on the parts required for such a build. Some of those deals have been once in a life time deals, but every once and a while there is one that I can share. This is one of those. It's hard to imagine Monster Cable products and good deal in the same sentence, but it's true. Normally one is left to his own devices when passing 1/0 gauge cable through sheet metal. I picked these up from Amazon.com My link I really couldn't find any dimensional info on them, so I took a gamble in hopes they'd work with my 1/0 radaflex welding cable. Luckily they sinched down on my cable no problem. They advertise corrosion resistant, which means plastic. I'd avoid putting them any closer than 8 inches to any exhaust components. Here are some pics. Fully compressed the inside diameter measured .570" at the smallest diameter and .620 at the largest diameter. Overall length was about 1.650" give or take. For the through hole I recommend a 1" hole saw. A little filing might be required. The hex on the main body is just over 1.250" Max diameter through the main body is .750" The compression nut measured just over 1.250" like the main body. The through hole on the compression nut measured .725" a bit smaller than the through hole on the main body. Looks like there is enough material on it that you could file some off if you needed it to be a bit bigger. Here is some info not pictured. Jam Nut Dims: Thickness .270" Hex Size across the flats 1.387" Max panel thickness this item can be used on is .250" Thanks for looking.

So your plan was instead to defraud your potential customers by posting pictures of enclosures you didn't build? You obviously have a camera.....you didn't think it was a better plan to just wait to start a thread until you had pictures of better built enclosures that were your own work? I don't like this thread at all. For one, you're trying to generate personal income from this forum without any benefit to the forum itself by means of advertising, becoming a supporting vendor with your own subforum....hell, you're not even a supporting member. And to top it off, your initial business plan was to attempt to defraud everyone by claiming other peoples work as your own in order to generate business. Thread closed. I really don't see the point in allowing this to continue any further.

That is up to Mark when it gets there. Sure thing, as soon as it gets in. I'll be having around 3 palets worth of inventory here between bravox & SSA inventory, i'll take a few pics of it.

I've become a fan of dubstep lately, both massive and melodic. To be honest, I get most of my recommendations off of 4chan's /b/. at around 2 am CST, there's usually a dubstep thread, and it seems to be the only thread i've found that consistently has OC. Here's my short list from what I've gotten from them: Aloe Blacc - I Need A Dollar (The Killabits Remix) Example-Kickstarts Bar9 Remix pretty much anything by Flux Pavillion and Bar9 freestylers - cracks (flux pavilion remix) Flux Pavilion - Got 2 Know Goldhawks - Keep The Fire BAR9 Remix Nero Ft Alana - Can't Take It (the drop on this is insane) Noisses-End Of (there is pretty much a 25 second sine wave in the middle of this at 1:38. USACi anyone?) Stephen Jerzak ft Leighton Meester - She Said (The_Killabits_Remix) (melodic, but it slams) The Killabits - Stray Bullet other than than dubstep, I listen to a lot of Pendulum just off the top of my head from them: The fountain slam (I hate this song but most pendulum fans love it) The island p1&2 watercolor witchcraft Set me on fire <dubstep+pendulum=jizz in my pants blood sugar encoder the other side granite <slams but I don't like it I've been listening to dance music lately like Lady Gaga, Cascada, Tiesto, stuff like that.

Hi, thanks for the great questions. Honestly I've spent quite a bit of time testing numerous suppliers and manufacturers, and I can answer some of your more brand specific questions better through PM. I've used several Delphi, Renard, and Transpo parts and they have been holding up extremely well. These particular alternators have a standard size output post, with the rectifier using 65 amp avalanche diodes. There will be a "Heavy Duty" version available with 8mm copper output post and 70 amp avalanche diodes. The price will go up $50, but will include a 2 year warranty. The voltage regulators are heavy duty Transpo units, set to 14.9 volts. The bearings are double sealed and meet or exceed OEM quality. The stators are double wound, basically improving output throughout the rpm band- not just top end. I wouldn't offer the warranty I do if I didn't believe in the quality of the parts I'm using, and the durability of the overall product. A little history: I have used brackets and alternators from other companies throughout the years, with mixed results. One company in particular I spent thousands building my dream electrical system with, only to install it and be extremely disappointed. My alternators and bracket died on me regularly, leaving me literally stranded beside the highway more than a half dozen times. I spent hundreds just on belts and pulleys and bolts that broke, and lost countless hours of time at work and with my family. I set out to build a better product- that people could afford. I have 2 kids under 2 years old, and the summers here average 90+ degrees. I run these exact alternators in my vehicle, on my quad bracket, knowing that if I was to break down they'd be sitting in an oven while I waited for help or worked on the car. I believe in the dependability and output of my products, and I stand behind my work.

These are some pretty nice speakers, had a chance to hear some and I must say they sounded different than I thought they would. Very dynamic when I was expecting basic dynamics with a mellow tone just by looking at the tweeter. They are far from harsh and far from being an old folks speaker. Very lively while not being overly brite.

are we trying to debate the differences between density vs rigidity? I've been told it's best for competition to make an enclosure more rigid than dense. Of course, i got no explanation as to why... However.. depending on how rigid an enclosure is and how it's attached, wouldn't it make the material inside the box more dense anyway? Example- 2 layers of mdf for all 6 sides. On the outside, 1 layer of 2x4s on all 6 sides. Now, this won't really make the box rigid unless the 2x4s are anchored but it would make the enclosure more dense... so if the 2x4s were anchored.. it would be both more dense and rigid.. correct? I've seen installs where users have poured concrete in between their walls and side of the vehicle to fill any empty voids so the wall is physically part of the vehicle now and well installed, hehe. Let's look at NDMStang's steel cage for his truck... That's gonna make any design rigid as hell... but i do not assume it will do terrible... I may understand part of what you guys are saying... If the resonance of the box continues to increase internally but the resonance of the car remains the same, their can\will be a loss of output? is this what you are referring to? If this is true, then wouldnt just retuning the port help a lot more? Seriously, when building a wall, you can't build it, test it, then add external bracing later on... It wouldnt be a real wall or reliable bracing. So we basically just build it as large as possible, well built n braced with some trickery calculations on how it's built then do port testing, car testing and box testing.