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Well im getting closer and closer with more boxes arriving at my door. So far i have my... Fi Bl 10" Fully Loaded my Sundown Audio SAE-1200D V.2 and some Mb Quart PVI 216 Components. getting pretty excited and thanks for all of you who chimed in and helped with the sub and amp questions. all i need is my custom box to be made. (im gonna try to make my own and ill def post pictures. as well as ask questions about that so help will be needed. haha) need to buy lots of 0 gauge wire for my big 3 and for other parts of the installation of course. need to get some second skin or dynamat or whatever i find better when the time comes. as well as maybe some components or just some normal speakers for the rear. here are some pics of what i got so far! Thanks for looking! Ill try to update as fast as i can on everything!

My review for tejcurrent's dual / triple alt bracket and HO alt. First I need to say that Troy is a great guy and was excellent to do business with. His communication was excellent and kept me updated on any delays and always answered my emails promptly. The time frame to get the product could have been faster, but I knew going into this that he had a job and family. I was okay with all that. Some things are out of his control at the moment, but he is learning how to deal with it. I wish him the best going forward. He is a super guy and went above and beyond helping me get an excellent bracket and alt installed in to my truck. I feel very safe in saying that Troy will stand behind his products and would never over inflate the values to mislead the buyer. This is just a hobby and a passion for him not his means of income so from what I can can tell there are no short cuts and everything is top quality. Hopefully the pictures will show what I am trying to say. The alternator. When comparing the internals of the stock, Iraggi 260a Amputator, and Tejcurrent ..... Troys had noticeably beefier internals. I cant even remember what all he showed me, so ask him about stators, windings, posts, and all that shit. I just know the product is nice, well put together, priced extremely fair, and gave me the results I was looking for. I will be adding a third alt after I catch up from spending WAY too much money for the wife and kids for Christmas and I will be getting it from tejcurrent. The bracket is so SWEET! It is a dual or triple bracket and I am running it with only two right now, but a third will be added soon. I have seen some other so called dual brackets and they look like toys compared to this. This one is VERY well made, nice and thick, quality parts used and straight forward to install. After installation there are no issues. No belt slipping, no squeal, no noise, and it is rock solid mounted up. Excellent product right here! Troys alt is on the right, Irragi on the left.

Finally. My first video of the Yukon and this is a lot harder that it looks. lol Hopefully after some practice I can make a little better one.

does this question have to do with this thread?

Good choice should work well for you. Thank you sir! I just saw your MB Quartz for sale.. I probably would have got one of those if I had waited lol. Great price Btw, the girl loves the Dcon you sold me. Thanks again for that!

I prefer to go with less power, higher quality and reputation.

I am still lost on the purpose of this topic...

Y'all are both wrong, the Mayhem is the more SPL geared woofer with it having no pole piece vent at all and more then likely a tighter gap. No.. They are two different woofers that are made for the same application for two different markets. Neither is going to be leaps and bounds better for SPL, or daily driving. They are targeted at the same purpose..which is higher power handling daily music. Few of our subs even have pole vents any longer.

Um, no. SSA does not have a recommended enclosure size for HT on their site. COMPLETELY different application. 9cuft may not be enough, 17Hz may not be low enough, but unless I spent some time modeling I couldn't say. Since you did model Sean, what do you see and why the concern over port area. There is a reason you settled on the sizes you did and sharing those would provide the insight you need to verify if you were right. Much better to discuss and learn than have someone do it as well and say okay. Add to that of course that not everyone will pick the same trade-offs anyways.

No day shots yet, will get one soon more stuff to come. just gotta order it. Keep watchin

A little bit of progress today I am making a huge deal out of a couple wires.......I know. I finally have my underhood fuse locations figured out. My goal was to have no wire strains (ie. bends) going into the fuse holders and to have them securely mounted. My first attempt looked good on paper but after I built it it wasn't good enough. I had a lot of strain on the wire going into and out of the fuse holders <---- exactly what I did not want. It turned out looking fairly decent but was not up to par functionally for me. Second attempt turned out fairly decent. No wire strains go into or out of either fuse holder <------ I was also able to eliminate 30" of charge wire in the process!!! I rerouted the charge wire to behind the air intake and fabbed up two aluminum brackets. One bracket to support the charge wire and another bracket to hold the fuse holder. I had covered each aluminum bracket with some spare Thermo-Tec that I had from my ZX10R track bike build. I used Thermo-Tec on the fuse holder bracket because the bracket is above the exhaust manifold. Heat probably will not be an issue but I figured it wouldn't hurt. before For the fuse holder on the run of 1/0 to the trunk I fabbed up a bracket out of acrylic. Looks half decent and I do not have any strains on the wire running into and out of the holder The wire will run out of the holder and between the factory fuse box and air box. One more pic What do you all think?

I think we will go with vinyl on them...white to match the port and trim on the woofer enclosure almost got both of them ready to cover

if u have to ask, then lower your goals... If you are set on doing it.. get it and when it blows, well u know what... Go ahead and find out how people safely run large amps on subs.. I ran 7kw for half a year on a 1000wrms sub... I never damaged them... It was 3 15s on 21,000w. I never played it long either... There are many factors involved in knowing really how much power the sub(s) is receiving, the current it is accepting, the excursion levels, time of play that's safe, etc... ^^^ i know a sub that can handle 7kw of amp rated power for over 40 min straight.. but that's not on topic with this thread

So, some new items to add in here. Put on a dual triple alt bracket and a second alt from tejcurrent. This bracket allows me to run dual alts now and add a third later, which is good since I am BROKE from Christmas spending. Here are some pics..... Looks DAMN nice and works great! Also got my rear windows tinted. Added 5% over the factory tint to keep peeping eyes from seeing what all is inside. The front is 27% as that is what the law allows, but I am going to go darker here too. Maybe I will be ok, maybe not. It would look better, so hell with it..... I am going to do it. You get a better price when you bring them two to do on a slow day. lol

Got my bottom end back, had to wait for my bearings (got them coated)

Not sure if you know this or not but, Skar has a plan where they'll build a custom enclosure shipped with the subs at a discounted price... May want to look into it Here's a link to the thread: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/45981-vvx12-single-12-ported-box-special-package/ (note: they say it's for one driver but if you want two then send them an email)

Not much of an update today. I installed a fused charge wire. I decided to run the wire on top of the engine bay because I think it will stay cleaner and will be more protected. I was planning on fabricating a bracket to hold the fuse holder. After an hour of looking at placement options for the fuse holder I realized that there was basically not a good spot for what I wanted to do. My biggest goal with finding a fuse holder placement was to minimize any bends going into and out of the holder and to have it near the battery. I decided on a location on top of the battery, this may change.

I could be wrong, but if I had to guess I would say that is probably just a typo. That said; it doesn't really matter whether the subwoofer is wired in-phase or out of phase, as long as you wire it for the best sound. Ideally you would try it wired both in-phase (positive to positive, negative to negative) and out of phase (as the diagram shows) and see which sounds better anyways.

Yeah just use one set of speaker terminals and wire your sub accordingly so you can get either 1 ohm or a 4 ohm load. Check out subwoofer wiring diagram to help you if you dont know how to wire a sub to a certain ohm load, heres the link: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp Select quantity of subwoofers and voice coil impedence and get started.

I have limited time so thats all I have for now!!!!! 3KWP :woot: :woot: :woot:

My power wire under the hood and runs to the trunk are 1/0 Singer HPM. I use copper 5/16 ring terminals. All wires are protected by braided sleeving PET. I use black PET and black heat shrink for ground wires and red PET and red heat shrink for power wires. All ring terminals are soldered with silver and flux then crimped with a hydraulic crimper. I use heat shrink adhesive between the heat shrink and PET. PET

Installing a D3400 under the hood. And upgrading some ground wires. Before: After: Upgraded the ground wire under the battery tray. Before: After: Ground on left side of engine. The factory ground ran from the top of the engine mount to the inside of the frame rail. There was no clearance at this location for my 1/0 wire so I mounted to the strut tower. Ground from battery to driver's side strut tower.

Mounting the XCON : 1/4-20 bolts and screw-in wood fasteners which I also glued in. I wanted to try this method......it works just use extreme caution. I decided to use close cell foam for a gasket instead of the supplied rubber gasket. Making a hole punch for the foam.

It's in the manual, of course it's right! Try this out, it may be a better visual. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

Word of caution: It's impossible to "compare" two speaker sets in two different vehicle, with two different installations, etc. The setup of the Focals might have just been really bad. The MS-8 is a good unit, but it's not magic or a miracle worker. The sound of the install is still subject to the quality of the installation and setup, and really there are various ways to "manipulate" the tuning of the MS-8.....so just because they both ran an MS-8 doesn't mean that the tuning quality was equal. It sounds like you already understood this for the most part given your comments, but it still needed said just for clarification. We can't tell you which you'll like better. But, What is your budget? What are you using for amplification? Do you have the knowledge/ability to go active?

Why is a ford gt40 SOOO much more then a mustang?

I think it's because a clipped wave is square('d), if it's square the cone stays longer at the upper and lower side of the wave. Less movement=less cooling. The wave form output of the amp is not an accurate depiction of cone position. As long as voltage is being applied to the coil, the cone is trying to move away from center. The only reasons that it will stop is if the voltage is insufficient to overcome the centering force of the spider and surround or the driver hits an actual mechanical limit. Barring either of those happening, the cone continues to move outward during the clipped portion of the signal.

In the case of an analog signal, the resolution is technically infinite regardless of voltage. In the case of a digital signal resolution is determined by the bit rate of the source again regardless of the voltage. Where voltage can make a difference is in signal to noise. Even the best signal wires will have some thermal noise. This is basically caused by electrons moving naturally within the atoms of the wire. This noise voltage is not in any way related to the signal. The signal must compete with this noise though. A higher signal voltage will allow the amp gain to be kept low which minimizes the amount that the noise is amplified. That is the only benefit of higher preamp voltage.

I'll have the carpet on in a day or two my Grandfather passed away Sunday morning so I'v been buisy with family

This ^ I love that design! The Thumpmaster.