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Both very good drivers and both companies offer excellent customer support. The Sundown is a proven beast. A very good daily driver. Have not had the chance to work with Skar woofers but have not a heard a negative comment yet. If budget is an issue the Skars would be a great buy. The Sundown I feel is a better engineered driver due to the design of the cooling and will handle more power.

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/1143.pdf 3/8 X 16

this site will help you no matter how many subwoofers you end up with... HERE

Please check out this link sir, alot of good information... HERE

You should be able to see what it is if you look in the vent holes, just above the coil (if im not mistaken) in a black sharpie

Got the other end to line up and tacked it on. Also verified that the ends and alignment bar were square. It's now ready for full welding and rear suspension mock up. My friend got my ball joint sleeves machined for the lowers.

Picked up the alignment bar today and got started on welding the housing ends on tonight. I removed the ring gear from the 3rd member and installed the bearing alignment blocks in place of the bearings. I put the alignment bar it prior to tightening the bearing caps to make sure the blocks are square and true. Then I removed the bar and installed the 3rd member in the housing and installed the bar and housing end locator blocks. One side lined up good so I sqaured it up and tacked it in place. The other side didn't quite line up. This is why it's important to use an alignment bar. If the ends are off centered too much it will lead to bearing failure later. A little heat and some pressure and I had the end almost lined up. I'll finish fine tuning it tomorrow hopefully and get the other end welded on.

I'm at a stand still on the lowers until I get the ball joint sleeves machined so I moved on to the jig for the upper. The new upper ball joints are larger and longer also. These are also NAPA units Well now I need to get material for the uppers so it's on to narrowing the rearend. Had to do a ton of measuring and remeasuring and get a print drawn up to make sure I didn't end up scrapping $1200 worth of axles and housing. This is my least favorite thing to do.:burn: Removed about 15" from the housing, the drops are sitting on the table. Got some more prep work done on the housing. I didn't like the way it was welded. I don't like the idea of grinding down welds that I didn't do so I ground a groove in all the existing welds and ran a nice fat bead over them to allow me to polish the welds down without risking any thin spots. Then I got busy polished the welds down. I'll do more finish work later after I'm done welding all the brackets on. Had to modify my aligment blocks to fit the Ballistic housing ends since they are a heavy duty end with extra retaining bolts. The raised center section slides into the housing end and gets bolted up to line up the housing ends with each other and the center bearings. An aligment bar slides through the center before welding them on. The ends are a press fit and I just have them press on a little bit for mock up, they aren't squared up yet. You can see the axle tube( marked with white) slides into the ends. This eliminates a butt weld and greatly increases strength. I'll also weld this end as well as around the inboard edge of the housing end.

The ironic thing is that your average person will have no clue as to whats been done after all the welds are polished down and it's painted. Thats why I document my work the way I do so more people can grasp whats being done and how. Thanks, quality is the goal here. I'm a little bit obsessed with details and the end result is a byproduct of many many small details linked together. To many people cut corners and use the "good enough" attitude which always degrades the finished product. I use the I can do better approach and prefer those results. Thanks for the props and a good laugh. Got the crossmember just about done. Polished the welds down where it meets the frame rail. Every welld will be shaped to a sharp edge before getting rounded over. This will insure straight and flat seams. Finished trimming and welding the lower mounts and did a little bit of metal finishing on them. Started formulating my plan of attack for the custom uppers. I'll need to extend these arms and make a jig to locate the balljoint then I'll be able to get started on the new arms. After some thought I'm going to build the lowers first. Made a jig to locate everything. Now I just need to put something between these. :biggrin: Here is a comparison of the stock lower ball joint next to the new one I'm retro fitting in it's place. It's much larger and uses a larger nut, it should add a considerable amount of strength. It's also a NAPA H.D. balljoint for even more piece of mind. Got the uppers ghetto extended so I can make a jig for the new uppers tomorrow hopefully. Got the uppers ghetto extended so I can make a jig for the new uppers tomorrow hopefully.

I was just about to post. Lol. I think it came out fairly nice. What do you guys think? First... I mounted my volt meter with velcro. Looks nice. All my stuff patiently waiting to be installed. AND NOW... FIR THE FINISHED ENCLOSURE!!! Wat u guys think? Could be better.

Port done!! later tonight when its dry, ill start on the mounting circle. Came out nice I think. Opinions?!

Lol. Yea... and for fuckin skippin to go to lunch. Wtf man... Anyways... pics. Fitment in the Swag Wag. Filled the holes. Supplies.

THANKS everyone for the compliments.!!! still need to fill in all the screw holes with putty... and im still debating on what to do on the outside. im thinking truck bed-liner and paint the port and mount (like Khaotic). but EVERYONE has theres like tht. im open to suggestions! thanks again. Fully finished! (aside from the outside) rounded the corners double baffle/flush mount

Haha jeez guys. We're talon our sweet time. Lol. pics... test fit... perfection.

^ lolz. Wont be untill i can get to my grandpas house to use his shop. I have no tools here. He had every tool u can think of. but he lives like an hour away tho. So I have to have a wknd off. Hopefully soon. Another question: anyone kno where I can get 1/0ga ring terminals locally? Does home depot, lowed etc have them? (I haven't checked yet. Soo...) I just need to do my big3. I put my stinger volt meter in tonight. Its easy. Jst a pain in the ass. what's the danger range for voltage? (The lowest it should EVER get) I mean... mine goes down to 13.2 with just my front stage. Pics!! Bright... this might need some tinted tape later on... I just went thru the pocket. Easy peasy I put the sticky tape stuff that it came with on to the back. Doesn't stick very well. ill have to screw into the side of the pocket I guess. Here is the lowest it got. Playin "A Milli" by weezy.

SO... not much posting going on in my build so i thought id post some pics of the swag wag. 1994 Toyota Camry lowered on H&R spring and Tokico struts. with 17" bronze MB Weapon wheels. needs paint and body desperatly. hail damage out the ass! (~95 dents on the roof alone!) FML. lol enjoy. back of the hatch b4 the removal of the flip up 3rd row. a rim & suspension shot. needs to mounted on the front. dont have a frame yet... and... what was almost a $350, yes $350 mistake... (when i was young and knew nothing about the car audio game. lol) which was like a year ago. i will post pics of my hatch interior now...later tho.

Not dig'n the dome tags at all. I am very curious what the optimal enclosure sizes will be for these bad boys.

Id pay the extra money for the sundown over the skars. Sundown has much better customer service and will care about their customers. Plus sundown is a proven company. The customer service from Skar is horrible.