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..you still have 500 watts on a speaker that has significantly more suspension then 500 watts will ever do anything to... If I remember correctly I spoke to you via email about this 500 watts on a Q and i told you I did not suggest you spending the money on the Q and doing it because it will not be anywhere near its full potential output wise...but you insisted that it would be fine. What you are trying to do is get to 4 seconds at the race track at over 300 mph by using a skate board and a leaf blower duct taped to the back of it...and that is not going to work out so well..there is no replacement for displacement, you have the smallest amount of displacement that we make, and half of the rated power that we suggest and you are expecting significantly more then what you should expect especially with the way the suspension is built on them. In order to do what you want to do...(4 seconds at the race track at 300+ mph) you need one of these. Bottom line...

We also have an xd with a 0.357 sig barrel, nice firearm. I'm not very informed about the Glocks, but on the xd and xdm just by looking at the pistol you can tell if there's a round in the chamber, and if the hammer is cocked. Oh and the safety works off the grip, so unless your actually holding it or applying force to the back of the grip, it will not fire. ALWAYS ASSUME THE DAMN GUN IS LOADED. Loaded chamber indicators are pretty worthless and it is a solution to a problem that does not exist. You shouldn't be pointing it at things you don't want to put a hole in anyways. Safetys are mechanical items, they can and will fail, it takes the trigger being pulled to fire a gun, and hence why don't point it at things you aren't willing to put a hole in.

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Hey I was wondering if someone could send me a file or post a good pic of the ssa logo. Meca state finals is this weekend and I'm getting a custom shirt made, would love to rep ssa on it Thanks

Bad sounding class Ds are usually ones with output stages that are not filtered properly or have too low of a sampling rate, the Incriminator has neither of these problems...

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Don't port it. It is a High QTS woofer.

I say use the Dcon, I just got a pair a week ago the s4's. i built the 3.2cube box thats here on the tech section. they sound damn good tight, hard hitting and a very clean sound. so i say get the Dcon.........But on the other hand i have not played with the skars yet.

Ignorant people like those that make threads without respecting the board and following the rules? Like those who do completely odd crap and expect it to work and get mad when you explain why it won't? And so on? Yep, I hate ignorant people as well. Discrimination is despicable unless you are discriminating ignorance in which case it is completely justified. And even if YOU feel you are religious, I'd argue you are just as atheist as I am. I just happen to believe in one less God than you do. *definitely not actually my statement, but it is well worth paraphrasing. I'm learning. If you don't like it, drive over here and confiscate my speakers. I'll be waiting. This is a thread about discrimination, not about you or your issues with people making an effort to learn; I'm not the best when it comes to asking questions, I think far faster than I speak or write, I know this and I do try to work on it. However, your remarks and jeers are LESS than helpful in anyway, shape or form. When you do take the time to post an answer to a question I ask, it is generally supremely helpful, as you know your shit. But 90% of the time you leave me wondering how you can claim car audio as a hobby, or why you are a member of this forum due to the percieved hostility in your posts. Frankly, I don't give two shits whethere or not you "intend" to offend, what you should realize is, this is text on a webpage. There is no tone of voice, and no facial expressions. When you post in such a fasion, it comes across terribly. Shame I can't post what I really want to say; I value my place on this forum too much to worry about you being silly and childish.

Stage height for the most part isn't going to come from your mids, it comes from the upper midrange and tweeters, which in a 2-way the tweeters will for the most part cover. In the midbass and lower midrange generally speaking your ears can't even determine "height", just left-right ques. The significant portion of the height ques are going to come from the tweeter in a 2-way. And following that the height has more to do with proper FR, proper time arrival and reflections, etc, and not necessarily the physical location of the drivers. If you sat in my car with your eyes closed I don't believe you'd be able to tell the speakers were next to your feet. As for width, you're only losing a couple inches in going from doors to kicks. Not enough to make a huge difference in width, although the ability to aim the drivers and get them away from the reflections/diffractions from being behind the door panel (as most people mount their mids) can often make a larger difference. In my car I get better overall imaging from the kicks without giving up really anything in width, and with venting to the fender airspace isn't an issue. But the main problem in my car with midbass in the kicks is I have a huge nasty peak that's generated. One of the things I should have done this summer was figure out if under-dash pads or something could have helped solved that issue but I haven't (forgot, dammit).....so for now I just let the MS-8 get rid of it for me.

IMO the best starting position to work from is to aim the drivers basically at the back of the headunit. This puts them being aimed almost straight across the vehicle, angled "up" slightly. Reason this seems to work well is because it puts both seats at approximately the same listening axis to both sets of speakers. One of the keys to proper imaging is to have the frequency response coming from each channel (left and right) to be equal to each other at the listening position, and with both speakers being at approximately the same listening axis this alleviates some of the FR issues related to the speakers themselves on each channel (although this obviously doesn't solve issues related to the acoustics of the vehicle creating differences in the FR between the left and right speakers). And by having the speakers at approximately the same listening axis for both seats, this creates a better environment for the stereo to sound "good" from both front seats. Sounding good to passengers isn't a requirement though. It's up to you. It's impossible to optimize a car stereo to sound good from two different listening positions. So by attempting to make it sound "good" from the passenger seat you're inherently going to have to give up something from the driver's seat. Ideally if you concerned yourself only with the driver's seat you would get better results than trying to also make it sound good from the passenger seat. Yes, I would have the mid up higher and the tweeter down lower for the reason you mentioned.....it keeps the tweeter further away from the underside of the dash. As for airspace......my kicks are vented into my fenders, so airspace isn't a problem Something to think about. Some people ascribe to the small is good theory......personally IMO that's not a great solution. Remember than an enclosure is a 2nd order highpass filter, and it affects the Q which affects the decay portion of the transient response. You can model the approximate response in any enclosure program, and you can mock up an enclosure for testing purposes larger than necessary then use wood blocks to raise and lower the enclosure volume so you can see what you think about how the volume affects the midbass response.

Nice build!!! You know your loud when you can crack welds!

I actually started building a box for the Utopias, and had it about 80% complete when I decided to use something else, haha.. I'm terribly indecisive Can show you some build pics of that box anyhow, its junked now And some amps I have (well I sold the Tru Tech Copper tube amps for $3000 a few weeks ago)

And you'd misquote and show that you didn't understand them. Its amazing how confused you are. More air space in your kicks once vented than your doors and no mechanical garbage to deal with either. Midbass and doors is a mess when it comes to deadening and getting rid of the rattles. Of course with the antique drivers you are using that isn't so hard to deal with. To clarify further a single seat installation it usually works out when both drivers have similar off axis aimings to your listening position. Generically the goal is to provide the same eq to both sides from a frequency response perspective so that you aren't moving the stage around during tuning to clean up either side. I too would say eff the passenger Stage height for the most part isn't going to come from your mids, it comes from the upper midrange and tweeters, which in a 2-way the tweeters will for the most part cover. In the midbass and lower midrange generally speaking your ears can't even determine "height", just left-right ques. The significant portion of the height ques are going to come from the tweeter in a 2-way. And following that the height has more to do with proper FR, proper time arrival and reflections, etc, and not necessarily the physical location of the drivers. If you sat in my car with your eyes closed I don't believe you'd be able to tell the speakers were next to your feet. Brad, you know that will be lost on the guy who thinks you need a center channel to raise and fix your stage. Ewwwwwwwww! As big as possible, but if you consider a port tuned to the lowest frequency of your driver and an enclosure you just want to keep the mach down somewhat like in a ported enclosure. It isn't port sound you are trying to minimize but instead trying to adequately allow the driver to breath.

Loud as hell while sounding great = SSA ZCON!!