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So... I was gonna put it on the pumpkin and trace but it didn't work. So that's why its kinda rough. Lol

For fuck's sake. Kevin, what is being asked is, what the fuck do you know about designing amplifiers? Are you just calling a manufacturer and their engineers design and build it, or do you have some knowledge and experience designing an electrical circuit. People are trying to feel you out and test you, can't you see that? Man up, state EXACTLY what you do or don't know, quit pussy footing around answers and just answer. . . . And you wonder why you get the reactions you do. BTW, this industry is small and many people know exactly how things work and who knows their shit, and who doesn't. Honesty is all that's needed. If you're a genius, tell people why, if you're an idiot, just state that. Pretty simple concepts to grasp.

That would be a positive he could have brought up, since he hasn't don't cross your fingers. There is no big deal. Everyone here could care less if its EXACTLY the same as X. In my case, I don't even care what X is. The question being asked is why these instead of X or anything else for that matter. As for the "basis for a design" comment, that is only the case for internet based companies and exactly why I am interested here. Kevin hasn't shown he understands T/S parameters which makes the sub design process dubious and if you think amps are easy compared to subs then its time for a math review. That being said, it doesn't mean he couldn't have defined a logical niche that'll have some positive value. I realize you are getting "paid" for your comments, but even still you have to have a better understanding of how the world works already...

I had started a big build last year that I had to end before it was finished. I did not have time to do all of the fiberglassing that I had planned, that's life. I had to have something installed in my car that wasn't going to take years to complete Next year I will be doing an extensive over haul of the current setup. I plan on having more time then, I hope. Some of these pics are from the previous build which I am still using part of. I have more pics to take but this is a start. Current install: HU: Kenwood something of another Front stage: DEI Viper 650.2 Rear fill: Stock Four channel amp: JL Audio XD400/4 Subwoofer: JL Audio 13W6 Subwoofer amp: JL Audio XD600/1 Synthesizer: ZED RA D3400 and 1/0 HPM

Donate here. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/donate.html

Well, if one is 1.4 ohms per coil, it can be wired to .7 ohms or 2.8 ohms. If the other is 2 ohms per coil it can be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. You could wire them togther for about .4 ohms or about 1.8ish respectively, keeping power similarly distrubuted. Additionally, are these impedance ratings you listed or DCR you checked yourself? Those two things are different.... Either way, it would sound fine if you build the box(s) right (big if here) and wire everything up right... Or just save yourself a possible headache and get matching drivers....

Happy Halloween

Nice job!! But Jacob, dont make me come out of retirement and rip your azz up!! LOL!!! J/K, nice work dude!!

Clamp results are pretty useless. Typically the only people impressed by clamp results are those too ignorant to know what they are actually looking at (which is normally not their fault, they just don't know any better).

Far from nothing, but if you fail to see that then that can be your personal opinion. Then what are the differentiators?

I have the relay, remote distribution strip, fuse block and IPod in the glove box. ZED Audio RA mounted in a factory compartment Driver's side at rear passenger foot well Passenger side a rear passenger foot well Fused distribution block for amps and ground block mounted in trunk

I still have a couple more pics to take but we just got dumped with +15" of fuck'n snow. So hopefully tomorrow I can update pics. Yeah I fuck'n hate snow. But it makes for nice pictures. This little lady was right outside my front door

Ground strip located near head unit that is routed directly to battery. This used for the HU, RA, relay and volt meter.

Stock sail panels 6.5's mounted with dual 0.75" mounting rings My MDF mounting rings are mechanically fastened to the stock metal door skin. I also used sound deadening material around the rings. I like to think it helps to stop rattles. I had to buy new door panels because I hacked up the originals from my previous install.

I make all my RCA's. Blue for sub, yellow for front, green for rear Enclosure build for JL Audio 13W6 Minimal use of sound deadening tiles JL Audio XD600/1 mounted under driver's seat JL Audio 400/4 mounted under passenger seat

When did we start erasing post on this site, thats no bueno at all.

UH OH. NO MORE SEATS! Going to start the wall on Wednesday. Dblbelly and I will be driving to RamRods place to start the build!

Alright, we'll do a little math here Say we have a consistent amount of current (amperage) draw at 100 amps and lets Say you were running at 13v. So to find wattage we multiply Volts*Amps 13v*100a= 1300w * .80 (for a Class D amplifier efficiency rating) which would come out to 1040w. So on the opposite side lets say you drop down to 12v 12v*100a=1200w * .80 = 960w In order to gain a noticable increase in output you need to gain at least 3dB. 3dB is the smallest a human can notice a change in output. and in order to gain the 3dB threshold you must in theory double your wattage.. so is that tiny amount of extra wattage going to matter in a daily driving scenario? The short answer is no, it would not matter what-so-ever. SO pick an amplifier that fits your budget, is aesthetically pleasing, and is in your power range. Granted what I've said isn't 100% perfect, but I hope you get the general idea behind it all.

umm no.. thats not how to properly do rear fill. the op doesn't need rear fill, he needs a proper front stage. You clearly have no idea what you are talking about. Actually you dont, you stated how you want to limit the rear fill to speakers that dont play high pass frequencies. Then you totally go against that statement and suggest a sealed back midrange driver . Dont do any speakers in the rear deck unless you seal off trunk or your just gonna damage those speakers. For now dont waste any money on rear speakers until you set your system up and give it a listen. Like I stated about keep factory speakers in there on radio power and you will be fine. If your set on changing them out then you can get a pair of components for the front and coaxials for the back. Lol. Another clueless post.

Very cost effective idea here