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Those aren't audiophiles, lol. I've stated this before and so far NO ONE has refuted it because they can't. There is no use for it. It does absolutely no good. Offer me a valid use and I'll gladly change my opinion. Let's start with you telling us what and why you'd use it. As for why knock on something you haven't used. Perhaps you should ask the question the other way. Why are so many people praising something that they have no idea what it does, why or what use it could be? Also, take a look at those that knock it. They have something in common. A fundamental understanding of electronics. The ones that use it, don't.

Several members have taken the time to explain why that "tool" is useless in an attempt to save you some money. Personally, I'd call that helpful. If you really want one you should look on the board owned by the company which produces the DD-1.

Two more for fun.

As long as you keep the headliner, carpet, trim pieces, etc undamaged you will have no problem returning to "stock". Just bolt it down and the carpet should cover anything that you've done.

And even fucks up those he doesn't own Not inferring here are you? He sure has Anthony has nothing to do with SSA. John is the Second Skin presence here. Not to mention I work really hard on the proper information when it comes to sound deadening.

Good luck getting just the way you want it. Vented and some polyfil and they should sound great. I think fleece and a few layers of the woven mat are more than strong enough. The ass on the Anarchy's probably isn't helping the pods get any smaller either. Are you planing to start with seperate rings next time or a single baffle again? This was the start from the current ones: Then I found out it was just too big, so I trimmed around the edges to this: But the shape was lost and looks like shit. I think I'll make the new ones like I started with, but there won't be a space between the mid and tweeter, and I'll trim ALL the wood around the drivers. Thinking about using veneer edge banding around the edges, this will make the baffle recessed a bit, and give me room to make a grill cover. did this with my bro's A pillars. worked well, but next time i think i'll use something more beefy like abs. reminds me that i keep forgetting to post up the build log...

I used metal rectangular bars with pre drilled holes and used that to make a platform that i then bolted to my floor then I screwed the box to the platform

Bolts with metal plates as washers to spread the load. Really, if the impact is severe enough, nothing is going to save you, but I like your thinking.

Oh and I made a panorama in about thirty seconds, without a tripod, as you can see from all the lines. The command center where I piss everyone off on The Internets.

Scroll my bitches: That's the edging Tirefryr.

And if your seats don't fold down.... I'm sure they can be taken out some how. Much easier said than done man. Most it's just a metal clip that holds the seat in, in numerous cars that I've worked on that's been the case. My car I had to: Unclip the seat bottom (easy) Remove two bolts from seat back and remove (easy) Remove a piece of sheet metal that supported the seat back involved ~10 screws and several rivets that had to be hammered loose (kind of a pain/Moderate) This left me with an odd shaped opening that I had to hammer into a big enough shape to make it usable, this involved many cuts and bruises to get the result that I wanted. This step obviously will reduce the structural integrity of the vehicle which had to be addressed. (Very time consuming and takes a lot of work to get your "stock" look back/Hard) In conclusion I consider myself to be above average in the install department and this wasn't "easy". So suggesting that someone who can't properly measure their trunk opening take on this task doesn't make sense to me.

I have never used anything on the inside of my seams however the tools I use allow me to cut perfectly straight cuts so I never have gaps. If needed I would use liquid nails over caulk. Reason being wood is a porous material and will hold moisture. Caulk being a rubber will not. This will cause the caulk to seperate from the woodunder extremely high humidity conditions. This won't happen with the liquid nails.

Anyone want sombreros ?

I wouldn't recommend running 3-way as your first attempt at active. It's possibly a recipe for disaster. Get oriented with active with a 2-way system before you attempt diving it a 3-way. I don't think running full ranges instead of a tweeter would be a great idea for you or your system. Again, much more difficult to setup and tune due to their sensitivity to aiming and generally less forgiving FR, and quite honestly I think you would probably end up blowing them. It just makes things unnecessarily more difficult when the Anarchy's are fully capable of running in a standard 2-way system with a tweeter. If your headunit allows for active processing, just use that and forget about using the xovers in the amps. Start out with a standard 2-way system with the Anarchy's and a set of tweeters. Overall this will more simple and easier to setup on your first try. Just keep in mind that although the Anarchy is a high excursion 6.5" driver........it's still only a 6.5" driver. It will still be possible (easy, in fact, especially if you are trying to "keep up" with a pair of Zcons going balls to the wall) to push the driver to and/or past it's limits. It may not be the magic fix to your problem. From how you describe your installation it would appear your problem is quite possibly due to a lack of excursion capabilities of your current driver. The Anarchy will improve this, but maybe not to the level of your needs. I think we need to take a step back and define exactly what your needs and goals are along with what your knowledge, skills and budget will allow.

Here's a video of the temp setup Zack has with 6 of the 12 15" ZCONs.

I have a DCON 15 and it is amazing for just 300 watts going to it. (Rated for 300 so perfect match of power) And it makes my window, when half way down, do the wave. Lol. Best $169(shipped) I ever spent. It also retains GREAT SQ, just as all SSA subs do.

The same reason people buy shit because Steve Meade uses it and therefore it must be good. The same reason why people feel like they have to buy an amplifier rated for xxx amount of power to "properly" power their subwoofers. The same reason why some people think all mainstream products are crap, such as JL, and everything "underground" that isn't known to the mass is the best stuff ever. So it can detect a lower level of distortion, so what? If your ears can't tell the difference, then why does it matter? Your listening to the music with your ears, not some mic or analyzer that goes "OH shit, 1% thd, negative points negative points." I understand your need to set the gains as high as you can on your monoblock amplifiers because you want it to be as loud as possible for your bass, right? The different in output from having the gain set between these two methods: "right below audible distortion from the ear (gain set by ear)" and "DD-1 with less then 1% distortion" isn't going to be audible. You would have to be off by enough so that the amplifier is making half it's power, thus creating at most, a 3dB difference. Which means you have a lot of headroom to be off, and your ears wouldn't be able to tell the difference. Your just pissing your money away. Or your using it for setting the gain for your front stage amp, well shit that should be easy to hear audible distortion, turn it down to where you can't hear it, and your set. Your acting like all music is 100% distortion free, and any distortion, no matter how small percentage, added to the mix is going to wreck havoc. If your competing, playing constant sine waves, and you want to play it at the highest level possible before excessive clipping, then I guess that's a different story.