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No worries.

if your going to plan more later you can always get a bigger amp now.. .and run it at 2 ohms.. then have time to build electrical and then just slap in another sub later.....

It has begun. For those not familiar here is a recap: http://www.soundsolu...of-double-dees/ For now this is just a box and sub replacement, and everything that comes with it. The goods: The box design: Estimated frequency response graph. O_o I decided to spruce up the box design just a bit by adding some windows. Just a little something to show off the insanity of the sub's motor design. It's not eveyday you get to see something this gonzo nuts. Here is a little test of the line of site. The red strip represents where the sub will be. You might have to close one eye to get the full effect in person. More on the way.

A built a new box, very nice. Hopefully you guys like it. Its around 5.5 cubic feet, 78" of port and is tuned to 34 hertz. Paint job is thanks to my lovely girlfriend Maria. Tell me what you think!

interesting if price is a possible reason - lets compare a few examples of similar level subs 300wrms rating 10" : skar - $120 , SD E (rated 400wrms) - $105 , dcon - $115 , IA - $99 12" : skar - $130 , SD E (rated 400wrms) - $110 , dcon - $125 , IA $109 600wrms 12" - skar - $189 , SD SA - $195 , IA LI - $189 1500wrms 12" SD Zv3 -$425 , IA DP - $459 15" SD Zv3 - $440 , IA DP - $479 i didnt compare every model of each company just those that are similarly rated & as we can see IA price was lower or same except in the 1500wrms level , difference there being between $30-40 i think it probably has to do with poor advertising & marketing , lack of IA personel on this forum to help their customers out or even to promote their products when ppl ask for what subs they should go with etc , maybe their brick & mortar dealers do all of that efficiently but on here it seems very poor to me not trying to create trouble or anything , i'm just saying what it looks like IMO

I agree with Brad 100% about the dome material. I've also found that what some people think is harshness from their tweeters is actually the mids beaming at or above the passive crossover point. I used to have a good article that explained it in great and wonderful detail. Hopefully I can find and link it again. Otherwise, I would just forget the rears and use the entire budget on a great set of components for the front plus deadening and installation correction. You'll be much more pleased with the outcome this way. So many people dwell on the fact that they think passengers won't be able to hear the music in the rear without speakers which couldn't be farther from the truth. Take a long vehicle like my Chevy Venture mini van. Passengers in the rear row of seats can hear the music just fine and only slightly lower than sitting in the middle row. When sitting in the middle row there's almost no audible difference in output from the front seats. Besides, who cares the most about how good the music sounds? You, the driver, who sits in the front at all times, or the passengers who are only occasionally in the car?

I think it's a good idea. Ill keep an eye on this thread.

You will lose your ability to fade front-to-back, which may or may not be important to you. Depending on speaker locations/layout, what the speakers are, etc it may make the rear speakers be a little overbearing. What is the layout of your system & what does it consist of? Personally if it were me, I would generally opt instead to only run the amp on the front speakers & run the rear speakers off the headunit.

Best diet food? Pussy.

very good advice ^ also they are some good choices on the ssa store

Come on man! No secrets. He might be up in that number range now where he might want to keep some things close to the vest, or should I say Dickes. Better wear protection if you are putting strange stuff near your Dickie! Spill it Steve! Secrets are the ghey, anticipation is the win.

This thread has really taken a strange twist.

Yes, it would be 100W per sub. You're better off going with a stereo setup since it would be able to produce more power before audible distortion and be more efficient, so you probably wouldn't have as much of a dimming issue. The amplifier you're using is a Class AB, which is typically around 50-60% efficient under ideal conditions (of which your setup is not). A modern Class D mono amplifier will be upwards of 90% efficient. Sony lists the current drain as 40A at 14.4V to produce 165W x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo, which would make it 330/(14.4*40) = 57.3% efficient and that's a best case scenario. It's tough to speculate exactly what the efficiency is of your current setup, however. If I had to venture a guess, I'd say it's likely under 30%, especially since you said it blew the previous fuse to the point where it melted in the fuse block. If you take a conservative number of 80% efficiency for a Class D amp at 2 ohms producing 650W, that's a current draw of 650W/(14.4*0.8) = 56A. That's probably around the same draw you have from your current setup but with 3 times the power output.

kicker solo x yes you can Warden-18 D2 – Incriminator Audio 18" or fi sp4 18 or btl n2 18 which one gets louder from those 3 Wtf? Nobody can tell you which will be louder! Comes down to the install! Do yourself a favor and read about loudspeaker parameters and understand their meaning. It will be beneficial to you.

great photo right here. Looking forward to hearing this one day.

All of them lined up like that looks awesome.

It would be parallel. How has your amplifier been able to handle it? It's all about current. You can safely run 400 Wrms continuously on that amplifier at 4 ohms bridged (40V x 10A). Using Ohm's Law (Power = Current^2 x Impedance or 200 = 10^2 x 2), you can see that you can still safely get 200 watts continuously out of the amplifier at 2 ohms bridged. Also keep in mind a few other factors. First, your subwoofers have a 4 ohm nominal impedance, but that number will actually fluctuate depending on a number of factors (frequency being played, enclosure size, voice coil temperature, etc.) and, in most cases, they will have an impedance higher than 4 ohms each. The other thing is that music is dynamic, so you can exceed voltage and current limitations of the amplifier over short periods of time without causing damage, blowing fuses, etc. Of course, this is nowhere near an ideal situation. You should think of upgrading your amplifier to something that can operate optimally at 2 ohms ...

I still dont know what the point of this is.

on to the BOXXX lol going to be galssing the inside with resin and fiberglass mat soon for now there going in my ol box

the zcon Have Arrived although i seen the Dam ups guy drop it off his truck from the top step in the front it rolled and my heart Dropped but i inspected it and its seem a ok here are some pictures didnt know to start a build log or maybe a mod can move thiss?? anyways onto the pics of the new STUFF lol New New radio lol and a 6 inch aero new box being built tomorrow

It doesn't work. A diode allows flow in only one direction. If he needed to add some for some reason there was another major problem with his system there is no reason they'd be necessary in a working system nor would they help.

Nice answer to my question, lol.... have you ever even owned either driver in question?? You dont have to convience me of anything, you choose to join in on a thread started by someone asking a question and yet you dont not even remotely try to convince him or really even help. Im sure we are all glad the "SSA Tech Team" representative is such help to us all with your smart ass short "high and mighty" answers as ALWAYS. But I will say this and leave this thread alone. Being a successful business owner myself, nobody would be allowed to represent my company name in the way you do SSA. You honestly bring negativity to almost everything you post in, your sig is proof of your self thought holiness. For clarification, I haven't owned either driver. Familiar with them though. Just the same as the Porsche Cayenne Turbo and BMW X5 M. i haven't owned them either, but am very familiar and instead made a different decision in the ML63. Amusing to me that the expectation was that I own them, but the comparison was in a vehicle "that I heard" also showing no ownership. As I've said in every thread like this. 99% of the time Q buyers should buy the BL. There are exemptions as they've sold over a 100. In this thread that was obvious as well as a whole it wasn't thought out very well, not much detail was shared, and a very simple question ended in 3 question marks. The OP obviously couldn't figure the answer out himself which means in implementation there will be difficulties, his goals are probably dubious, and there is a definite advantage of the BL for that sort of user. Don't think you can attempt to argue with that. As for trying to attack me, if it makes you feel better feel free. I don't and won't state my business status or my background to try to develop respect as instead I'll let my posts do it for me. If you don't like what I say, that's fine I don't expect everyone too.

Pretty sure it's not monetary. There have been some very public and very very badly handled deals on here made public with DC. They showed a negative side time and time again, with a new excuse. They tried to delete things and cover it up and it left a bad taste in many members' mouths. They left the forum because the mod staff did not allow them to cover shit up. They may have the best product, but to some, the way they have done some business has cost them some business.

Ihave had 2600rms going to my 1 15 in 4 cubed tuned at 30hz. Loves the power. And yes. Its well worth the wait for them

Question #1- depends on your enclosure size, enclosure type and tuning Question #2- Most people i've seen on here run speaker wire to their zcons. Some others run DMMs to them when they screw them up and others run CA glue on them when they are rebuilding them. Question #3- I can't answer this one.. just gotta sit back and watch Titanic a couple hundred times back to back and then.... They'll be there.

Thats right! REMIX! We are going ahead with a wall in the astro finally and doing 8 18" icons off a soundigital 12k in an inverted clamsell style box!

These pages are found under the respective product you are looking for now. a tab that says "pre-designed enclosures". http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/icon.html > "pre-designed enclosures" > you'll find ICON designs > ETC.

I bought an alt. from Mechman ~10 years ago. Whoever I spoke to on the phone was very helpful, didn't try try to rush me off the phone. I received my alt. quickly. This was for a 93 mustang cobra. The morning after I installed the alt, a 1/2 mile from home on my way to work, the lights went dim. I pulled over, popped the hood and found the belt off and the alt. pulley cocked at an angle, nut was gone. I do like to exercise the tach. needle. I called Mechman later that day, explained the problem and it was taken care of quickly and at their cost. I would have expected no less. I would not hesitate to do business with them again.