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Then they're not truly friends.

Wow, every time I look at this log I'm impressed with your work quality. That photo of your dash looks so damn sick. Well done.

Thanks for the comments Onto the amp install. The idea here was to get rid of the wide spare tire, use a narrow spare and install the amps under the floor in the trunk. 1/2" plywood to hold the amps: Clearance to the wheel well cover: Holes for wires: Carpeted: All the cables except power are ran through techflex where visible. Between 2 people we couldn't find a better solution. Everything in place: Wiring and front stage pics tomorrow

It's not actually a build log since it took place fast and I barely had time to sleep, let alone post. So I'm posting up the pictures Equipment list: Custom car-puter, with 8" touchscreen, 8 channels of processing, lots of bells and whistles Peerless SLS 8's A few 3" full-ranges to chose from: TB W3, Fountek FR88, Fountek FR89 and some Faitals Seas H1396 tweeters Nakamichi amps: two 4x100w and one 1200w mono Subwoofer will be a BTL 15, as soon as the recone gets here. The install is for a friend, we both worked on it for 7 days, getting ~12 hrs of work / day and it should have happened 2 years ago. Other things got in the way and we only managed to do it this summer.

We at SPL-Lab strive to bring the customer new, innovative products to the market. Some of these products are more improved over what's currently out there and others just plain do not exist. But, SPL-Lab is not just a company aimed at marketing sound measurement devices. We are here to bring the customer, the market, what it needs, what it wants and what it's been begging for. What does the market want? Something to fill the gap. Something that just doesn't exist. Something that when you see it and use it will you see how unique such a product is that you possibly cannot function without it. A piece of mind you could say. Coming soon in 2012- SPL-Lab Smart Monitor This device monitors ACTIVELY within an automotive environment four key points in the customer's vehicle. AC Voltage AC Amperage DC Voltage DC Amperage Ranges- AC Voltage - 0-300v AC Amperage - 0-100A using TRUE RMS technology! DC Voltage - 0-30v(capable of 6v, 8v, 12v, 14v, 16v, 18v and 24v systems) DC Current - 0-100A using TRUE RMS technology! This device can be mounted in the driver's view to see AC and DC V\A in realtime. Ps- This will be fully enclosed and engineered to withstand the sound pressure abuse our meters withstand which is levels that can exceed 180dB! And do not worry about heat. This device will stay cool under normal operation. So, that looks cool and all but that's it? Just active monitoring? Doesn't seem so "awesome" to me? You are right! That is not everything! The device features Threshold Levels for ALL FOUR monitoring points. What does this mean? Example- Let's say a user has a 5,000w bass amp, a sub and some batteries in the back. Let's say this user has no idea what he\she is doing. That is ok! With basic knowledge, our device will help prevent catastrophic failure and even prevent unforeseen failure for those users that had no control over potential issues that can arise in car audio. So, the user hooks everything up.. User starts to adjust Threshold Levels. AC- Voltage - Do not Exceed 70v (5kw @1ohm ~70v\70A) This can prevent clipping if wanted. Amperage - Do not Exceed 40a (this is to help protect tinsel leads or coil). DC- Voltage - Do not Drop Below 12.0v (this is to protect overworking alternator and excessive discharge levels from your battery(ies). Amperage - Do not Exceed 100a (this is to prevent excessive cyclic current draw from low DC current devices such as an alternator). You do not have to use Threshold levels if you do not want to either! We have a Defeat option for those who compete to prevent our device from interfering! Amazed yet? There's more... The device will come Fully Portable! We had both customers and shop owners in mind when we engineered this. Fully portable means user can either permanently install it in vehicle or plug it right up via 12v cigarette socket and fine tune and monitor system and unplug it and pack it away. This device will be able to monitor your amp's voltage output and current draw from subwoofers to determine safe range playback when not installed actively. Shop owners can also monitor dc voltage drop during test run to ensure adequate electrical system before leaving. This device when used for the car audio market is comparable to take the place of a DMM for measuring ac\dc voltage, an Ammeter for measuring subwoofers current draw and a remote display allowing the user to monitor not just realtime DC voltage like other voltmeters but ALL 4 points- DC voltage and current, AC voltage and current ALL on the same screen! In the event any of your thresholds are tripped, the SMART Monitor will immediately kill the signal to all equipment it is monitoring. It will immediately re-engage once the signal is back within safe ranges which usually is 1 second after trip. This will let you know and see why it tripped and to let you know that something needs attention before catastrophic failure occurs in the near future! Here are pics of the sensors- If anyone is wondering how these sensors plug up to the Main block, it is simple. All sensors plug up using standard USB Cable. We wanted to use a cable that is very popular so if the cable ever gets damaged, the user can easily replace it without trying to locate a "specialty cable." And one last thing.. If you are not convinced enough yet, here is something else to think of- Ever wanted to know what your "impedance rise" or "wattage output" is at a certain single sine wave? With our SMART Monitor, you will, in realtime, be able to calculate the AC Voltage and Amperage numbers to give you the answer you are looking for. If our SMART Monitor says AC1: 46A 110V Then that means your Impedance was 2.39Ω Your wattage output was 5,060w. Active Monitoring and protection gives a lot more peace of mind that your investment is easily more protected than even before! For fun sessions and for personal test n tune, you are now able to measure actual impedance when testing with single sine waves for "burping" and measuring actual wattage output. Shop owners can now have a tool that they can feel more comfortable with using to know that the whole vehicle from front to rear is within a safe operating zone rather than relying on the customer to know exactly what he\she needs to do if they do not have our device installed. Our device comes bundled with the Mainblock with display module and 1 AC v\a sensor and 1 DC v\a sensor with USB cables and power adapter for car. RETAIL Pricing for this entire bundle will be less than our USB Meter. This is major news to be able to bring so many features for such a new device at such a price! You do not have to purchase both sensors if you do not want\need them! If you only need 1 of the 2 sensors, that will save you $50 per sensor. Do not fear though. We will gladly sell additional sensor to those who need replacements or add-ons to meet the 1 AC 1 DC sensor bundle. Mass Production begins at the end of next month... Do I dare ask? Who is ready for a Group buy? Any questions or comments, post them in this thread. We will create a new thread with Group buy pricing and Group buy dates when the time comes.

Pretty good deal http://www.sears.com/wow-specials/dap-100000000108524?adCell=BH

glad you got it mang

Little League is awesome at home in HD!

Good job making the mounting rings

walked the dogs, 5/5 bench, 5/5 upright rows, and I'm fucking trashed

They are shipped in the order they are ready to go out. I spoke with them last night and they are pushing out a ton of our orders now.

Ready to FINALLY finish my car audio setup!

The white button up is the best one imo..lol

Hell of a quote at the end there m5.

I bet I have video of who did.

IMG_3114 by frostedflakejake, on Flickr

Funny thing is you are comparing your FTW sound with a sampling size of one or only exposure to things not done well. That or you have no ear. And making it funnier everyone you are trying to refer to either is running pro audio gear or has run plenty in the past. Strategy and implementation should follow needs and compromises be chosen instead of being a bad side effect of not knowing.

Right, I didn't mean solder vs no solder. I was talking about the actual mechanical splicing method to join the wire prior to soldering. This is what the WU splice looks like. After you heat shrink/tape it maintains the same path as the original wire and does not create a larger profile. The way you do it is fine. I wasn't picking on it. Most people have never seen either of the types I do and since I've learned the techniques I never do it any other way. Just making suggestions is all

your right, your witte is totally above my head, i only wish i could be as comical as you, one day if i try hard enough i can be as creative as you .

Trunk is cleared. Z.3 18" and M3a have been sold a moth ago Only D3400 remains Up next. VFL-450.1 (2) Z.3 15" and (2) D3100 to go along with my D3400 Z.3 goodness It will fit

The pods are complete. The flocked pods are much lighter than what the fibers are in the bag. I should have used a darker base coat. Next up for the front stage is tuning Driver's side: Passenger side: I finished my carpet job in the car, I am stoked

You don't need midbass assuming you'll primarily be playing rap stuff when you demo. Midrange PA speakers will be fine. I run Selenium mids and Crescendo XST supertweeters, also have some Pyle bullets that others have hated on and more then likely have never heard. My front stage keeps up with 160dB's of bass and sounds pretty good when playing real music. That's about all you can ask for when doing a build like that. Setting up xover points/slopes and some EQ work help a lot, as does NOT overpowering the crap out of the speakers. I prefer to run more speakers then necessary with modest power levels. Everyone can throw out their opinions on what will/won't work but I've done a LOT of these set ups and speak from experience....

Lookin clean lil bro......congrats!

I would never step foot in that shop again. I do find it quite amusing how time as progressed after initial release of the DD-1, how many users are killing their equipment, believing it was not possible soley because it was set with said device, as if this device was the end all protection system or soemthing.

I would never step foot in that shop again.

Is what I've had my eye on for the past 7 months. 24x10. I'm not exactly sure yet, adding big rims will only add the "steal me" factor which I'm trying to avoid until I get my own garage. I need new tires bad right now though, starting to get bald

22's would look good. Few cars can pull off big rims like 26's. There's a navi local to me that has 26's and surprisingly looks pretty good with them, but a navi is a good bit larger than an exploder.