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Nice to finally hear someone taking the time to share a good experience. For every 100 negative things said you might get 1 person who bothers sharing a good experience. (Not speaking of Fi, just people in general take the time to complain, but not commend) Thank you for doing that!

i just wanted to pop in and say.. guys.. lol ive built plenty of musical setups that will do 50s .. yes in the kick.. even have a 4dr impala with a trunk setup that has done just at a 50.8 in the kick with 2 15s and a rd d9.. tuned at 35hz daily beater.. most are walled cars. but i build 2-3 daily setups a month for people. i just dont have to much interest in building daily stuff for myself.. 12-15yrs ago i did.. and had it. im 33yrs old.. beating at the stop lights with my 3 kids in the car isnt a big deal to me lol i like building woofers,boxes..the mechanical side of this industry.. and testing and chasing scores. the tinkering with that is my attraction. so im sorry i compete in a spl burp class..and thats what i built for .. but it is what is and thats that..

I've been throwing around the idea of IB in my Elantra as well.

First off the DD1 is a joke. Second the gear you are looking at is all quality stuff.

wont be long before that one needs a recone with that abuse I imagine

Vids or it didn't happen -Jamie M. ^ This!

If you are doing that you may want to look into the miniDSP. It's pretty cheap, very expandable, and can pretty much tweak it any way you want. Sean and I were talking about it and sounds like a great product. Unless of course you were planning on finding an active headunit. It still wouldnt have all the features the DSP would tho.

Whiskey helps with everything.

It depends on what you mean by "most accurate". Distortion is higher with sealed/IB than a ported enclosure playing near tuning, although distortion is also much less audible in the subbass region. Transient response depends on where the final Qtc ends up being at, although generally the damping will be probably better than ported. One of the nice things is that pressure is much closer to even on both sides of the cone which can solve some linearity issues. I've ran IB for several years, haven't used an enclosure in years and have no desire to do so, except for a couple weeks last year which was just for shits n giggles. The space savings is simply phenomenal, sound is still very good and low end efficiency is improved. What do you have for an EQ? Home audio oriented IB subs such as the IB3 will end up being extremely bottom heavy when installed in a vehicle due to their high Qts and low Fs so the low end will always need tamed down. Likewise and especially in a small'ish trunk, they'll often experience an increased Qtc as well which may or may not bump it up beyond an acceptable level for your listening tastes due to their already high Qts. Personally I've had best luck with low-mid Qts and low Fs subs. My last IB sub was an Exodus Shiva-X with a Qts around .4 and Fs around 20hz. The bottom end was still strong and still needed EQ'd down a bit to be closer to flat, although I didn't mind the mildly heavy bottom end as it wasn't overbearing. Any sub can be ran "infinite baffle", you just have to be able to predict how it will respond and see how it matches your goals and/or if you have the EQ to fix response issues. In car audio there are typically two options to achieve relatively flat in-car response without much EQ.....low Q/Low Fs and high Q/High Fs. Those two options keep the F3 on the higher side to keep the low end from bloating once cabin gain is considered. The high Q/Fs route may have the problem I noted above of too high of a final Qtc depending on trunk space, which is why I like the lower Q/low Fs option the best as you'll almost always end up with an acceptable Qtc even if you carry some shit in your trunk. High Q low Fs drivers like used in home audio have a very low F3 which when combined with cabin gain needs tweaked to get right and they generally have a very large Vas so they experience an increase in Qtc once installed in a vehicle trunk. What is your budget for subs?

LOL I definitely will tighten those screws... I just took the sub out to repair it, and took the picture when the screw was half-way in, since that's where it was when the accident happened. I received quite a few compliments about the stain from kids on campus, thank you!

No he is not making assumptions, Steve himself stated those amps only put out 45 watts. The man who built them spoke on the issue on multiple forums as well. This ^^^^ . I have used a bunch of these old Boss branded Zed amps in my own and in friend's cars. Stephen was very honest about actual output and I think was rather perturbed about Boss insisting on over-rating everything. ALL his amps prior to that had always been conservatively rated.

Waiting on pics, I'm assuming you scratched the idea of two 15s? This is all I took so far.

It doesn't mater if their dcons or not, any sub can take more than rms within reason as long as the user isn't a idiot. It also doens't mater if it was 1500w, the install I did with dcons was too on a ap1500 and only 2 12" dcons in a trunk and "looked" more violent then yours. Not that means anything, but just saying. Looking at all the comments that 16k has made in this thread, their all compliments, every single one of them. It seems like your the one being the douche. All Tim did was give you his opinion, and that was it. Your the one who replied with a smart ass remark. Never once did you say thank you to 16k in this build, not once, not that you have to, but shows your character. If he's such a douche, and always leaves smart ass remarks, then why has he been complimenting your build this whole time? I would dare say that you don't even deserve them. After 13 pages, why do I only see two hand fulls of actuall build productivity. Never once did I see 4 15s walled in your vehicle either, although the tittle of your thread suggests so. I'm not picking sides here or playing favorites, just saying, maybe your the one who shouldn't act like such a douche. /rant

I just wanted to type in red font. But I agree, replace the battery under the hood first, then add a second battery.

What the fuck kind of weed dealers you got out there? They just use garbage bags around here. There's a difference between premium shit from a dispensary with thc % cbd % labeling verse mersh that comes from Mexico by the bundles, and is sold at your local high school. Now I sound like a snob.

Invoice number: I-18240/00 That is your order number and was emailed to you immediately after your order was placed. If your email in our system was typed incorrectly when you placed the order, then emails would be sent to the incorrect address. We have had customers emails sent to their spam folder as well. But it is not something that is manually done by us. If it was never received, then I am definitely sorry for that. I will send an email with the details to the address you provided when it was ordered (both the order and FedEx tracking for when the sub ships). The sub was finished Friday, but will not ship until Tuesday due to the holiday and still needing to be tested. As outlined on the site we are at 10-15 business days for orders right now and should fall well within that range for your sub to be shipped. Thanks, Scott

They make hundreds of woofers per week, most of those people send emails wondering where their order is, many people send inquiry emails concerning a future order, or about the company, etc. With as many orders as they receive they need everyone they can making woofers to ship in a timely manner; no one can spend their time answering emails. Products ship when they are complete, a PayPal dispute will only leave a sour taste in everyone's mouth.

No, never doing an outrageous deal again. We never kept any Stetsom in stock, models changed faster then we could sell them. Then why keep them on board? Because my semi-blind belief that people will build a quality product and provide good customer service when it is needed.

Ωcon

Found this website a few years ago after checking out Fi's website, redirected me to their little portion of the site and iv been on here ever since. Not to bash other forums but this place just seems so much better than any other forum. Everyones thread seems to atleast get a few replys, unlike other forums where less popular members get swept away for the more popular posts. Love it here, and cant wait to order my Icons.

Truck looks very clean. No way that tint on the lights would fly here.

Glad you came over! I'm surprised that you read the rules, most people don't. That DCON should work perfectly for you.

If you do go with the Xcon you won't be disappointed..

If I had the choice I would choose the pair. You are also less likely to damage the subs that way. You will also be operating them in a more linear region for the same given output level as the single driver. You also don't have to worry about a SSF when running sealed. Don't think there is a sound quality advantage of a sealed box though, they actaully exhibit more distortion near resonance (due to higher driver excursion) than a vented alignment and group delay differences are debatable when tuned low enough... It is also easier to do a sealed box right if you don't have alot of experience...

Depends on the music you listen to. If you listen to primarily rock then I would go two of the high qts sealed. Two 12's sealed would give more output over a larger range than one 12 ported. But if all you listen to is rap, dub step, pop, etc then one ported would be the way to go. Just my opinion

I would rather run the single 12 ported, and it's cheaper.

Why would you switch from such a well built amp with so much revolutionary desgins in it, for a off the shelf hunk of shit? The RF will put cleaner power to that sub without a single doubt in my mind, and since it is CP, will probably produce more power then the Nendo. We have 3 2500bdCP's in our truck, we clamped them all @1ohm. Rise to 2.7Ohm dropping to 9.2v! and STILL made 2281w. Re did test with charged batts, dropping to 12.6 made over 2800w.

Thanks ! It's even harder for people who don't speak english everyday, like me !!! And I'm not the only one, on this forum. SSA is international !

Just to make it clear, Re is Re, nominal resistance is a different thing. If impedance is always = Re + Xe, where Xe = reactance, then you will never drop below Re. But if you have a 2 ohm nominal subwoofer, with an Re of 1.4 ohms you will drop below 2 ohms.

.............. video ---------------- New Box finished Two SAZ 3500D on 1.33 omh bridge.... 6x SA-10.... Two Optima 75a..