Leaderboard

Your over thinking it. Neither are going to be helpful. All music is all recorded at different levels, with varying dynamics, so inevitably some of it will be quieter or louder than others at the same volume setting on the head-unit, so you'll be finding yourself raising the volume or lowering it by a few notches for max listening. Correct? By that same token, think of what either the dd-1 or the o-scope is doing. Measuring some distortion at some reference level. Some reference level that is different than your music. So you could play it safe, and use a higher level, but then short change yourself on output, or do the opposite. So why bother with either? Use your ears, and listen for audible distortion. Once that occurs, turn it down some. Then use common sense when playing various music, as song A may sound fine at volume 21, but song B distorts at volume 19.

What is this? And then this..... Metered in the kick, outlaw. 51hz.

Hi I bought an Incriminator Audio I 10" about a month ago from SSA as a temporary sub while my two SSA Icon 15" subs were being built and WOW. For a little 300rms 10" this thing pounds, have about .75-1" of roof flex in my Dakota Crew Cab. Built a box I designed which is around 1.25 cubic feet net tuned to around 31hz. I've been beating the crap out of this thing with decaf songs, Young Jeezy etc and it sounds awesome, and is taking the abuse of around 400rms. Would definitely recommend this for a budget friendly sub. Bass is tight but still gets really low and loud. Hopefully this will help someone who's looking at them.

The samples arrived while I was out of town -- back now and on to the photos ! Weights : 10" 12-spoke : 1.7 lbs 10" Sundown : 4 lbs 12" 12-spoke : 2.3 lbs 12" Sundown : 5 lbs 15" 12-spoke : 3.4 lbs 15" Sundown : 7.9 lbs Not a finely calibrated scale so within a few tenths. * THICK rim -- no more cracked rim with over-tightened screws or with a super heavy motor. * THICK base -- no worries about bolts pulling through even with motors 2-3x heavier than we use now. ----- Still awaiting our new cones and surrounds to arrive... then we can do some building and show off what these can do ! ----- Mocked up on a motor with our new spacer ring... very similar to the Z v.3 18" spacer but the ID matches our new frame base and this one is a bit thicker to allow a bit more air flow as the new frames have more displacement potential. The same spacer works on all sizes 10/12/15 as well. * Inner air passage on spacer * Outer air passage * This is a 12" frame and motor mock-up; proportionately looks alot like the SA-8 v.2

Well then the DD-1 is even more useless. Steve himself on here said that would be a poor use for it. Conveniently that matches with the fact it isn't useful for anything. An oscope won't help you win comps either btw. First and foremost you need to learn to hear/smell and know when to turn things down.

I'm not entirely sure why so many people are so happy about throwing money away for a dd-1. Sort of like paying me money so I can spray paint a line from your doorstep to your car that way you don't get lost.

http://www.worldcommunitygrid.org/ Aaron donates his computer power to work on scientific computations. IE: computer is idle after 15 minutes, so it starts number crunching stuff for some specific project.

Maybe bring some to finals? ... gonna have ALOT of IAK members to feed!

Its been awhile since I had good pair of 18s, and I just ordered 2 FI BL 18s with cooling and flatwind. That was by far my best pair of subs I have owned in the past and decided to go back with what I have had the best luck with. Going in a 2012 scion xb

Might have to remind me before I go although this isn't something I'd forget. Funny since I had first heard about it only a month ago. Have you ever actually been to Japan?

Ignorance.

If you're not a technician/engineer and will only be using the scope to set your gains then the dd-1 will probably be a better choice for you. I have never used a scope or dd-1 to set my gains and have never had issues with killing my equipment because of it.

i need this

Wow Steve, this build is getting insane!

You should do yourself a favor and calculate your uncertainties then. It'll be eye opening.

Feel like a kid the night before christmas waiting to hear this beast!

Everyone needs to bug David to come down for finals. He's got sand in his vagina & is afraid traveling will scratch & rub it raw.

Thanks for choosing SSA, and thanks for posting your IA review.

http://www.worldcommunitygrid.org/ Aaron donates his computer power to work on scientific computations. IE: computer is idle after 15 minutes, so it starts number crunching stuff for some specific project. Thanks. Since I cannot give money, this is the next best thing.

I'm back @ work this morning !

150dbs +, & below 30hz, that is sweet!

Your weird bro?

I ran 2 bl 18's in an expedition for over 2 years off 2 sundown 1500d's strapped and then changed to a sundown 3500d. Then I have ran seems like everything since then so I figured why not go back to what I was happy with at first

Figures. I turned down my street today coming from class, and two bitches be walking, and waving at me. I was tempted to walk over after parking, but figured they were jail bait. Jail bait no bueno.

I tried it, but my computer is too laggy. Fuck win7.

What sort of off roading do you do? i do quite a bit of off roading. i mud the crap out of it and when it comes to snow i usually take the ditches instead of the road. i like to drive down gravel roads through the ditches and jump some field approaches. some other guy commented about parking lots and pot holes, but i don't have this kind of truck just so i can drive it down the road. i like to play with my toys I really don't see the advantage to 40's over 38's for practical off road use. You gain about an inch of clearance, but lose a lot of power. Our JK had 35s, and we took it through some nasty shit with no clearance issues. I don't see ANY decent reason to switch to 40s other then aesthetics.

I believe the site says 3-4 weeks, I would wait the suggested time before contacting.

Nothing exciting but pics of progress, Until I receive a "Shipped" status I will take my time, lol. Love working with birch. Baffle, doubled and rounded inside edges. I have to go get the all thread I will use for bracing. I also will probably be using some 2in hardwood dowel for the vertical bracing so I do not have to run all thread through the port, although that may be a perfectly fine option. I also will probably use solid brass terminals instead of regular zinc plated. I will use 12 posts (one for each coil) so re-wiring can be done without removing subs.

Hopefully the group can bring home some awards!

What about post-workout carbs and fats from that point of view ? Post work out should be the highest Glycemic Index (GI) carbs you can have. And protein. BCAA is nice too. Or glutamine. Skip the fat on that post work out meal though. Save fats for the other meals if possible.

Tuned in!

Weather looks to be on the cooler side.....mid/upper 50's for highs & overnight lows in the upper 30's/low 40's. Just a heads up, especially for Steve

For the most part, I use a pencil, paper and calculator. I know I can trust my own calculations.

What sort of off roading do you do? Mall parking lots have nasty pot holes.

think the 40's would be too big? those are 38's on it right now Are you even getting 12mpg? Just wondering. average 10.7MPG. thats another reason i'm going to do the Duramax diesel conversion, the extra power will be nice also. Will 10k even touch putting a Duramax in it? not likelly. it's quite a bit more than that, but i do get one more bonus from work that i'll be using since i quit being a boss. That won't be till the first quarter of next year though Don't waste your money, you work too hard for it.

And if you're not sure of ur skill set. I might even come out of retirement and build it for you.

If you haven't heard bullet tweeters they are really really f'ing loud. I personally can't handle one mounted in the front stage of a car.

I think we could manage it.

We are retiring outside of the US. Our investments have provided us with the money we need to get the hell out of dodge. It is Italy, for us. The Tuscan countryside offers nice low cost living, a beautiful setting, and a slow pace that makes me smile... And the Italian women are beautiful, and not much is as sexy as hearing them speak Italian or broken English First thing that came to my mind:

i got the sub reconed today andf reinstalled in the wall. I paid for the registration of my two classes ill be competing in at finals. I may enter a third if things are going well. i have a trailer at my shop ready to roll. i borrowed my employees Ford to tow the Camaro up there since it has alot lower miles than my truck. Ill start testing with my termlab tomorrow.

went too a show this past weekend. burped from 24-31hz and all numbers were over 150 150.8 @ 28hz was my peak im really happy with how this wall came out

Why would you build it too big?

And what if you don't mount it to your enlcosure? Then you mount it to an amp rack that is mounted to the vehicle in which all vehicular vibrations are transmitted through it at well. It really doesn't matter. You can mount it anywhere. There were some issues with some amps with tri-path chips and that's pretty much where all this originated. People have been mounting amps on enclosures since the beginning of car audio with zero issues. Some occasionally have issues, but it's pretty much impossible to state that a failure was due to vibration from a mounting point. I have mounted hundreds of amps on hundreds of enclosures over the past 20 years and never had a single issue.

If your box flexes at all it can cause issues. I suggest doing this: Go to lowes/HD and go to their nuts/bolts/washers section. They should have something for rubber stoppers. Get 2x 1" rubber stoppers. Then take a hand saw or something to cut it with and cut each one in half so you get a pair of 1/2" sections. Drill out screw holes in the rubber stoppers and install them underneath the amp feet. Tighten the screws just enough so that the rubber stopper begins to compress and squish outwards. Not only does it provide the amp with better cooling, it helps reduce a lot of the movement by acting like a cushion.

Well since you're going wall and add more cone area, you can tune higher and achieve nice lows. When I start the 4 18s in the jeep build, it's going to be 34-35hz tuning.

I already took care of him via Email, Neal.