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Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/03/2013 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    As already been said multiple times here and your other threads the boxes are no where near ideal. As I have said before sell the kickers and buy ONE high xmax 12 Preferably something along the lines of an Xcon, and have a proper box built with proper port area.
  2. Add it all up and subtract it from the internal volume. So if you have two subs that displace .10 each, that is .20. Then the port displaces .90 which you add to the .20 so the total is 1.10. Then you would subtract 1.10 from the box volume. If it was 6.10, you would be left with 5 cu/ft. Make sure you only calculate the internal port volume, not the entire thing.
  3. Looks to be a cool little unit. Appears you can, via a laptop, adjust power through out the passband to limit over excursion.
  4. Making a cardboard Mach up is a great way to find out exactly what can and can't fit through the opening.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    not even close to being the same board hifonics http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifiers/566975-hifonics-hfi-2500d-vs-brz2400-1-a.html BC 2000 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/145425-crescendo-bc2000/ just so happends i know a guy with a few for sale
  7. There is a start. What don't you like about like about the passive results? ie, it is always better to go about something relatively as it is much easier to define how to deal with the concern. Exactly why I tell everyone to not jump in head first and buy what you think is your final set of drivers right away. EVERY install you will learn something and want something to change. This is the audio disease that we all have otherwise we wouldn't be here which means research to find the "best" solution right away will never lead you there. Better to invest in things you can resell, but are improving the concerns you have right now than to go straight to the holy grail since like in real life it doesn't exist.
  8. Was looking for a bad ass sub. Thought that would be a sundown. Was directed here via the all powerful interwebs. looking at subs in the store and just happened upon the forum link. Been here soaking it all in ever since...btw I never got the sundown sub ...I am running SSA!!!
  9. Mark and I were on CarAudioResources together back in 2001. He had just started SSAudio.com as a site for upstate NY people and we ended up combining efforts shortly there after in 2002 and became incorporated in 2006. CarAudioResources (as you can see linked at the top) was a very busy site from 2001-2004ish. It died off in 2006 or so, and Mark and I bought it last year and now we are trying to bring it back to it's prior level a decade ago.
  10. I wanna meet these boxes, they must be very sexy for you to be this attached. LOL you could easily have a box built that would allow you to put that amp on top instead of taking valuable space sitting there. Did these boxes save your life or get you some ass one time or something? why are you so in love with them? A new box doesn't mean bigger, it could mean better port tuning and a shared port for both 10's. Some guys build 3-4 boxes until they get the best design/port tuning for their specific subwoofers I'm guessing that you're not getting the response you want because you're starving the subs of air with minimal box/port size. Not to mention the acoustic nightmare from convertables.
  11. NO SHIT. Your problem is you haven't a clue what you are doing and are arguing with someone that has designed and built thousands of enclosures. And have built well over 100 enclosures for mustangs. All bodies both coupe and convertible. I have not one time told you to build a bigger box. BECAUSE I KNOW WHAT WILL OR NOT FIT IN A CONVERTIBLE MUSTANG. And two of those subs in a proper box ain't gonna fit. Now if you have enough sense to use someone else's knowledge and experience to your advantage you will get some cardboard and make the largest box that you can put in and remove and ill model a box for you.
  12. Jeff Hanneman dead at 49. RIP and reign in blood, Jeff. Been a fan of Slayer for over 25 years. http://www.billboard.com/articles/news/1560534/slayer-guitarist-jeff-hanneman-dead-at-49
  13. That is front end specific too. A live rear axle, I am for coliovers every time.
  14. I don't understand why you're so stubborn with your trunk space? You could always build a box in the trunk... This guy has a 2000 mustang with 2 12" and he folds his back seat down with the port firing in the cabin. http://www.caraudioforumz.com/install-related-17/help-enclosed-trunk-2000-mustang-165863/ You said u cannot fold down your back seat, are you sure? Edit: In that thread it also mentions removing the 6x9's from the rear to allow more airflow
  15. I recorded two new videos this morning. I'm pretty much done with the system for the year. On my to buy list, is a new desktop, a new camera, and SDS. This system where it's at is very good. And I enjoy the way it is right now.
  16. SSF problem then. Those subs can handle that amp IF it is setup right.
  17. A with gain setting if you are unwilling or unable to upgrade your install. Turn gain on amp down, set volume to whatever volume level you want to be able to turn it up to, set gain at new more impressive volume level, call it a day...If your friends still aren't impressed get an ssa sub
  18. If you didn't have your gains set well into clipping the subs you have COULD take the power you have.
  19. A member on DIYMA typed up a little review of the Alpine Type R 12". The Alpine's should be solid performers if installed correctly. Although I do not know the terms of "more" that you are looking for.
  20. Your explanation was useless, it only works in this scenario. As Shizzon has said, 2 10's with your explanation should have more cone area then 1 18, eventhough that is far from the truth. I don't understand what you get out of calling people math nerds. Some very good advice for you would be to stop typing, untill you know how to talk to people. (it's not because this is the internet that you shouldn't behave properly.)
  21. That is NOT how you measure cone area, not even close. Pi*R*R or for an 8 - 4*4*Pi. Of course that is WRONG too. It is just more right than what you posted. Using the Sd from the drivers is what you need to do. A big surround eats way more into an 8 than a 10. I'd expect the Sd of an 8 to be around 0.02 and the 10 a little bigger than 0.03 (both in meter squared)
  22. My explanation was VERY simple, although not technically correct. You guys can argue about math all you want but still four 8's have more cone area than two tens no matter what end of story. You guys are just math nerds.
  23. In all of the projects I have ever posted about on here, i've probably spent a total of less than $100. I get things secondhand, or pick them. That being said, the drivers i've found so far are all under $5, so a pair would be less than 15 after shipping. It's starting to get clear that it's useless asking questions here anymore, I understand it's not exactly a conventional project, none of mine are really; but I would at least expect a bit of a break for being excited enough about audio stuff to want to experiment in any way I can , despite not being financially well off. Not everyone can afford nice toys; I'm homeless, I come to the local college to use the wifi to get on here. I'm trying to stay off drugs and out of jail by dumping my focus on speakers, and this is how i'm met with it. I'm lost; I thought this was a hobby not a cut and dried process to attain sound. What happened to trying new things, or having fun with it? I used to really respect people's opinions here, but not while you all put me down like this. I quit.
  24. -1 points
    The RMS rating of the sub has absolutely nothing to do with how loud it will get. It the absolute last specification you should ever look at.
  25. -1 points
    omg, for the last time, I cant put a bigger box in my trunk!!!!! My trunk opening doesnt allow much AT ALL! the only way would be to build it INSIDE the trunk, and im not going there because I need it to be removable.

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