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Got a little meter time today at our local shop Competion Audio and the results are as follows: 30hz 143.20 33hz 144.59 34hz 144.81 36hz 144.59 All sealed on the dash with a Term lab. Not sure how important the numbers are, but when we were testing the Evil sounded so awesome! The guys at the shop were really suprised at how hard it could hit and then drop low and be down right brutal playing music. My highest score was playing music 145.6 little bass race style. Some videos will follow once I upload them.

Time alignment is no gimmick but whether it's use is practical for your application I'm not entirely certain. Time alignment is necessary when the speakers are different distances from your ears to get them to basically play as if they were the same distance from you. That helps with keeping the sound stage (height and width of where the instruments sound like they're coming from) and imaging (the locations of the instruments and singers on the stage) sounding like they're supposed to sound. The problem is I'm not sure how effective it would be with all four speakers playing from all around you. Think of your listening position as the position of the microphone when the music was recorded. For example the singer should sound as though he is in the center of the stage, the drums directly behind him, bass guitar to the left and lead guitar to the right. When you play your music from both in front of you (front speakers) and from behind you (rear speakers) the interaction of those sounds as they were recorded gets garbled, messed up, and no longer clear anymore to start with. You're going to hear things behind you that weren't really in that location in the recording and between cancellations, environmental noises and other acoustic anomalies I can't imagine that DTA would do much to help and I could very well see where it could hurt. Someone with more knowledge would have to answer on that. It may be good enough to you now but believe me ignorance can be bliss. If I hadn't learned all that I have over the years I would probably still be happy with much less work and money spent than I am and have spent on it so far and wouldn't likely be spending more of both in the future. Learn all you can, there's nothing wrong with that, but don't be surprised if you look back 5 or 10 years from now and wonder what the hell you were thinking or doing right now. I have spent more time and more money doing more things than I would ever have considered spending and doing even just five years ago. I still have A LOT to learn to become anything more than just a novice and from what I've learned so far I'm not sure I can honestly even consider myself at that level yet.

So a good portion of the new raw parts arrived today -- nearly a full 40' HQ truckload of soft parts and frames. Plus, of course, additional E, SA, and Z v.3 style parts! Still have more that will be arriving on our next two containers as well to complete all of the parts we need for X, Z v.4, and NS v.3 drop-ins / re-cones... will be partial containers of parts on those as many of the out-of-stock woofers will be coming in on those trucks as well (SA and SD-2 lines). I don't think very many people realize just how many raw parts we keep in stock here but this is a nice peek into that The fully built X and Z v.4 are still moving along according to the ETA in the pre-sale; roughly end of June for those.

Hi my name is Frank, I am new to this Forum. I found it on the Incriminator Audio site. Sorta new to car audio, well I used to be into it pretty good about twenty years ago and have rekindled my interest this past year. I just bought a 12" IA Death Penalty and am looking foward to putting it in my car, it is supposed to be here next tuesday according to the tracking info.

so I just hooked up my xcon today to a Rockford fosgate punch 1000x1bd doing 1400 watts rms (stock electrical for now, so I know I'm not seeing all that power) .. wow this thing sounds awesome I am only giving it .5 of airspace sealed it being a 10 inch sub. before I had a kicker cvr and even when I play the same songs I hear frequencies in songs that the cvr didn't even play. my xcon does get warm but don't blame it cause the box is small..... whoever builds these subs , please keep up the good work.

ALL 4 ARE NOW SOLD!

Hey you have to post a piece of paper with your name, date and ssa

http://youtu.be/dF6p9P-rxwY

http://youtu.be/kxI2TE7jmoM

http://youtu.be/kduGyDun4GY

http://youtu.be/UEBm6Srmenw

http://youtu.be/WGUzhTBTMh0

Very nice for one 15!

Then you won't get the most out of a sq sub and the same for a spl sub. You need to design the box for the sub you are using.

The problem is there is no "one" enclosure volume, tuning and port area that will work for a given driver. It all depends on goals, and since those goals will vary person to person and install to install then the appropriate enclosure will also vary person to person and install to install. Enclosure modeling software is a huge aid in designing an enclosure, but you still have to understand how to interpret the information and determine what is appropriate for a given situation.

must be truconcepts again.....

Bass boost needs to be at 0. That alone could quite easily be the source of your problems. Long story short, the bass boost asks the amplifier to output more power, in your case more power than it actually can. This causes clipping which significantly increases the amount of average power over time it's outputting and the subwoofer is receiving. If that average power is more than the subwoofer can handle thermally or mechanically, then it blows. As you've found out There is a "proper" way to use bass boost, but I'm not going to explain it because there is absolutely zero need ever in car audio to use a bass boost. Just simply leave it at zero. I couldn't find anything quickly online that gave the preamp voltage of your HU. It looks like a lower end model, so I'm guessing it's fairly low (not that this is inherently "bad", but it does affect gain position to a degree). And given the small input sensitivity range with that setting (looks like it can also be adjusted for 2V - 8V, I'm assuming you had it in the 100mV - 2V range), it's possible that your gain was set correctly. That said when you install a different sub, you need to reset your gain and verify it's set to a level that isn't over-driving the amplifier or the subwoofer. This is one of the few times I'd suggest you read and follow the sticky in the amplifier section regarding how to set a gain with a DMM. Normally I'd suggest setting by ear based on driver stress.....but given your history it doesn't appear you can readily identify driver stress Without knowing the actual tuning frequency of your enclosure, it's hard to say for certain but just as a guesstimate I'd venture to say your subsonic filter (SSF) was set atleast to a safe level. Many prefab boxes are tuned pretty high, normally close to or a little higher than 40hz. So a 36hz SSF setting should be sufficient. If the enclosure is tuned lower than 36hz then you could possibly lower the SSF a bit. While we're on the topic, whatever sub you choose next, it would be wise to spend a little extra & have an enclosure custom built. If you can construct it yourself we can help you design it. But a prefab enclosure is going to restrict your ability to extract full performance out of your subwoofer. Can't give you advice on headunit settings without knowing what those features are and the available settings.

I would build the enclosure 1.75 cubic feet net tuned to 32 hertz. This will give you a 3db ripple (boost) at 35 herts and give you a F3 (-3db) at 26 hertz. This will give you the sense of exaggerated bass output. You can go smaller down to 1.25 feet but keep tuning at 32hz and do not go over 1.75 feet as group delay would be higher than desireble.

Liked and shared, very nice sub give away !!!!

I was looking into buying an icon for a friend actually so this would be awesome

Sweet!!

The gain on the amp is to match the amps voltage input with the output of the headunit. The rms rating on the amp is rated based on the power that the rails on the amp can generate. When you crank the gain too much it causes the amp can not keep up causing the output signal to be destorted. Almost all subs are rated at 70%BL which relates to 20 percent distortion. And if you are running a high xmax sub like 30mm or so you are actually getting into the 40-50% distortion realm as nearly all 8 inch spiders being used today hit 20% distortion at around 18mm. For reference 20% distortion is what is considered becoming audible. However most people have these high xmax subs and never complain about any audible noise which can be clearly be seen by having the driver tested on a Klippel analyzer. What does this mean? It means that most people's consent of distortion greatly veary and what a lot of engineers will tell you that distortion can actually be a good thing. In fact distortion is a tually purposely induced in some drivers, for example guitar amps. Where I am going with this is, you would have to seriously clip a sub into distortion to have it audible. More than likely you are just driving the sub past its mechanical limits which is directly related to power which will change greatly depending on the enclosure volume and tuning.

Liked both

Awesome you guys are great. Did it!

Woohoo, already liked both pages and Shared the picture..... twice, lol.

One thing I see that has been overlooked here, Trent you are very fixated on matching rms ratting of the sub woofer to the wattage ratting of the amplifier. Music is dynamic, so it is quite rare that your amplifier will be sending 1000 watts of power to the sub woofer. Not to mention impedance rise from the enclosure etc. etc., but that is a different topic. Anyway, what I am getting at is we, for example, (SSA) have people running 2000 watt ratted amplifiers to SSA Icon's, and 1000 watt amplifiers to SSA Zcon's. Moral of the story is not to focus on matching the ratings on the amp and sub and set your amplifier gains correctly, along with the gain is not a linear adjustment to the amplifier wattage output.

those speakers failed because of YOU.. not the amp. some one could run a jensen 10 on a 7K and not blow it. you need to adjust your settings and figure out what your doing wrong.

You didn't describe anything. Again you used a term "staging" that if you understood would be fine. Instead of saying I want to improve my staging describe what that means to you. There is no generic solution, only specific ones to YOUR needs. Until we understand those, there is NO WAY to help. This is too complicated for me . I guess I'll be fine with what I have now. There IS a way to help - answer my questions - and stop thinking so deep about how its going to help me in the long run. Telling me you can't help me doesn't help me or anyone reading these threads. If You can't help me, or answer my questions, then don't reply. - simple. Perhaps an analogy is in order. Customer: "I want to buy a car, mine isn't roomy enough what should I do?" Sales person: "What do you mean by roomy? Customer: "That doesn't help me, answer my question." It is exactly the same as what you are doing. We don't understand your "roomy" or "staging" in this case.