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so... your going to be installing other peoples stereos now?

Chops 86' Cutlass from Team IAK 4 15" SSA Zcons 4 Crescendo 3500's DOING WORK !!! Be sure to sub for future Videos!! Flexing.... Just a little Shredding a PhoneBook

Last time I looked around we didn't have any high end car audio places in the cities. Bunch of awful bullshit, but no high end that is for sure.

Thanks a lot. I have had problems with my tweets for a while. Not always thier fault. A number of issues. The few times I got it right, there was a bit too much yet. However, as a result of just messing around and one was damaged. ...I found when i had only the one running on the passenger side, the driver side sounded great. It was tamed down nicely. But sitting on the passenger side was too much. I think I have only enjoyed Alton's front stage and now overly biased on others...including mine. I put those through hell..they held up quite a while....installed and used proper...I would imagine most folks would be pleased with them.

Just make sure your box is stout. I was talking to nick today an he mentioned they weigh about 80 pounds.

There is a ton here. YouTube has a shit load of good vids. All the tx2k vids, the Texas mile vids, and txstreets. All filmed here in Houston.

Time and time again we tell people that increasing power is the least effective way to get louder, and here I think you've provided a prime example. You have to at least double power input to get a theoretical 3dB gain in output which, again, is the theoretical doubling of output. The problem is that even when you double the power due to things like power compression you'll never see that full 3dB anyway. Plus 3dB to the ear isn't twice as loud anyway so it's all a wash. As we've mentioned before, adding power and worrying about those small increases like that aren't a big enough difference to go chasing and spending money on unless you're competing and trying to get every tenth of a decibel you can, and even then there's better ways to go about it most of the time.

I think this is the longest span of time that someone has dug up for a post..

well whats better then one TWO

From the SSA site itself. I was researching the IA Flatlyne and it brought me here. Hopefully I've posted enough shameless plugs for SSA on CA.com to make myself memorable to you, Aaron

Pimpin by Cyberoptics

I haven't seen them yet. Been eagerly awaiting the new Death Penalty specs myself. And photos of the new Flatlyne...

I had the same doubts when I ordered an 18" Death Penalty (thanks Black & Blue sale), but realized that, more or less, it really comes down to the enclosure on how a sub is going to respond. Take the time on good enclosure design and the rest will follow. That being said, I've only ever run single 10 or 12" setups in a trunk car, so an 18" 2KW groundpounder sub is going to be well beyond my daily experience level. Should still be a great match run at 4ohms off a pair of Zed Minotaur, though

IA dont make burp only subs.

I would like to add that this driver is currently under development and as of the current date, we have no concrete specifications for the product that will come to market. To satisfy some curiousity, I would estimate that prototypes will be in hand within a few weeks, and I would hope that this driver will come to fruition within the next three months. These drivers will likely perform optimally with 1000wrms and above. Please realize that these are estimates only! I would also like to welcome any and all comments about what YOU, the consumer and enthusiast, would like to see these drivers offer. Obviously we cannot satisfy everyone, and need to keep in mind the economics behind the development of this driver.. but seeing as we are in the prototype stage, it wouldn't hurt for you to express your own desires for our new LMT enabled drivers. Things to ponder might include the importance of excursion versus practicality, optimization for small or large boxes, and so on. Make your voice heard! People are listening B) As we get further into the development of this product, information will be posted in this forum - so feel free to visit often, we'd love to have you as a member!

Id say so....

As many of you may have heard, we indeed have some exciting news about TC Sounds' Linear Motor technology. After years of development, and months of negociations, SoundSplinter has been granted exclusive rights to be the first distributor of Linear Motor technology enabled drivers! Few prototypes have been made thus far, but those that were have been given exceptionally high acclaim by those who have experienced them. My goal is to work with TC Sounds to continue this saga in appropriate fashion, bringing to market a truly awesome driver, capable of massive excursion, huge output, high power handling, all with incredibly low distortion and a beastliness that will amaze any onlooker (and of course every listener!). So you might be asking yourself, "What is this Linear Motor technology all about? I've been hearing the term thrown around forever now but could never get my hands on it.. Is this a dream?" .. A dream come true maybe! __________________________________________________________________________ Variable Density Coil - White Paper By Thilo Stompler Property of TC Sounds, Inc. __________________________________________________________________________ Principle Electromechanical systems are made up of coupled electric and magnetic circuits. By a magnetic circuit, we mean a path for magnetic flux, just as an electric circuit provides path for the flow of electric current. In electromechanical devices, current-carrying conductors interact with magnetic fields (themselves arising from electric currents in conductors or from permanent magnets), resulting in electromechanical energy conversion. Consider a conductor of length "L" placed between the poles of a permanent magnet producing a magnetic flux density B in the "air gap" between the poles N - S (ref. Image 1). Let the conductor carry a current "I" and be at right angles to the magnetic flux lines. The conductor experiences a force F, in the direction of which is perpendicular to both the conductor and to the magnetic filed lines, and the magnitude of which is given by F=(B)(I)(L). For N conductors (or turns), F becomes (N)(B)(I)(L). A more general statement which holds for an arbitrary orientation of the conductor with respect to the flux lines is the cross product of the two vectors B and L, i.e. F=(I)(L) x B (Ampere

REGULAR VOLTAGE TESTING: Testing by Loyd Lowry. results from the sundowns... Test Vehicle.. mine.. 05 aveo.. RMS clamp and dmm, as seen in the 12" test session.. This testing includes recent results, and not so recent.. woofers used.. 2 Mags (1.9 dcr per coil), 2 FI Q 12's (1.4 dcr per coil) either used 1 sub or both of the pair for loads.. pure 60hz sine was used to tested.. just under audible clipping 1 amp, single 1000ca everstart maxx, factory alt 4 ohm nominal = 518 watts @ 88% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 14.0v) 2 ohm nominal = 948 watts @ 85% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 13.6v) 1 ohm nominal = 1510 watts @ 78% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.4 volts .5 ohm nominal = 1615 watts @ 72% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 11.8v) .35 ohm nominal = 1748 watts @ 67% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 11.4v) amplifier was protection happy @ .35 with tones, and some music. IMO.. one 1500d should be limited to 1 ohm nominal use in factory electrical systems.. for the sake of the car.. not the amp now... to have fun with some juice.. 1 amp, single 1000ca everstart maxx, 1 Eagle Picher 12a5000, factory alt 4 ohm nominal = 520 watts @ 88% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 14.1v) 2 ohm nominal = 960 watts @ 84% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 13.7v) 1 ohm nominal = 1635 watts @ 75% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.8 volts .5 ohm nominal = 1890 watts @ 71% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.8v) .35 ohm nominal = 2245 watts @ 65% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.8v) amplifier did fine @ .35 with tones and music with the added battery 2 amps strapped, with both batteries (for the sake of not typing it over and over... voltage drops from 14.3v, to 12.8 the entire test... lol 4 ohm strapped = 1900 watts @ 82% efficiency 2 ohm strapped = 3150 watts @ 72% efficiency 1 ohm strapped = 3740 watts @ 68% efficiency .5 ohm strapped = 4425 watts @ 65% efficiency .35 ohm strapped = 5415 watts @ 62% efficiency amps would only tolerate a VERY short burp @ .35.. -------------------------------- HIGH VOLTAGE TESTING: Testing by Sean Belanger Here's the setup, a pair of Sundown Audio SAZ-1500d's strapped at 1 ohm. In the box used in the test (a single Funkin Audio MF12, dual 2), rise went from 1 ohm to 2 ohms during play. Here are the results: Notes: * Highest power on 16.0v rest was 4663 watts on 14.3v * Highest power on 16.5v rest was 5136 watts on 14.3v * Highest power on 17.9v rest was 5677 watts on 15.5v * 84% efficient on 15.0v and 180 amps of draw per amp There was a 10% increase in power starting 0.5v higher with an ending voltage being the same. There was another 10% increase when starting at 1.4v higher and ending 1.2v higher. This would tell me that a lowest voltage over 16.5v likely wouldn't be much of a gain from below that. No matter how ya look at it, tapping the 5700 mark on 15v isn't too shabby from a pair of 1500 watt amps. --------------- Regular and High Voltage Posts Consolidated on 10-23-08 Original "High Voltage Thread" Here: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7117

All right guys time has come to repair the ripped up quarter panel the Zcons have blessed me with and put a fresh coat of paint on my Yukon. I am also going to do a couple other mods on it that should set her up right when I get it done. Throwing a 6" suspension lift and 37's on it. Muahahahaha! Anyway, back on track........... I have narrowed my choices to the following and by doing this I have realized that there are a bunch of people that do not like my choices. If you dont like my choices, that's okay and feel free to say so, but it's my truck and Imma do as I please. lol I think people hear satin and think chalky and cheap looking and they say yuck. I agree the crappy flat paint jobs just look dirty. That is not what I am after. I want a nice paint job with a clean industrial look. There is a difference between flat and satin. I am having a really hard time deciding between my two choices and thought I would put up a post and get some other opinions. Personally I think either would look great, but I am kinda leaning towards the stormtrooper look. First choice: The brightest white I can find with a satin clear. Not flat, but no gloss and no reflection. Second choice: Satin Black. Not flat, satin! So, what ya got? Good or bad lets hear it.

I have a 08 Impala and when I had my Icon 12 on a 1200D, the bumper rattled like crazy. I had two layers of Raamat on the trunk outer skin. It seems like there is a piece of plastic or something smacking the frame behind the bumper and causing most of the rattle. Just wondering if anyone has fixed this issue. I have an Xcon 15 coming and it will be on 2000w~ and I know it will be a little worse. Any help is appreciated.

I have been trying to research this but the answers i get are from one extreme to another. I have been told not to talk to my insurance company about this so i do not know who to actually talk to, ask, etc to assume the information i get is accurate. So, hopefully someone on here and tell me or lead me to the answers. I am curious about disconnecting the Air Bag Compressor on the top passenger side of the car. IF this thing deploys, it will only cause more harm than good. I'll leave the driver side connected and steering wheel connected, just passenger side compressor i want off. I get answers from insurance wont cover me if i get in a wreck. It's legal to disconnect without worry I will get fined $2500 if insurance finds out or if police find out If i unplug the compressor, there is a high chance the air bags WILL deploy So you see.. i give up on researching this myself.

Oh, I don't take offense to any of that. I appreciate it. I know about the road noise and stuff but at the moment all I'm trying to do is eliminate any possible rattling. It proved effective in my challenger..so I'm doing the same to my g6. Now down the road when I got like $400 on the side. Ill put some of that material you mentioned in your post in my vehicle. But for now I'm worried about getting everything rattle proof

choice of front speakers is pretty subjective, you need to hear them in person to decide which sound best. unfortunately, speakers mounted to a display in a shop will not sound the same when installed in a car (but you can probably determine your tweeter preference). for the music you're listening to you'll need a set that can handle midbass frequencies pretty well. strong midbass also requires deadening the doors correctly. you can read up on proper deadening techinique on sounddeadenershowdown.com installing the tweeter close the mid is probably a good idea. you could try other locations out as well. making assumption about tweeter aiming prior to installing and testing is incorrect. no way you can make any conclusion concerning performance beforehand. loud exhaust will not help the situation at all. Its like watching a movie in a noisy movie theater, doesn't make any sense. also, I would not bother buying rear speakers, this is another area that will only hurt the install. If you're concerned with space in the truck you could do an infinite baffle subwoofer install. this would involved a particular type/designed subwoofer(s) mounted the the rear deck via a baffle.

I messed up this thread its my first time posting pictures but hopefully they show on this thread I fuc%ed up and for some reason posted two threads sorry but this is my box built by dave the box guy 1.4 cubes tuned to 32 hertz and the speaker mounts also built by him. they are for my crescendo mezzos bought of S. DeYoung. I installed them today.

I haven't seen them yet. Been eagerly awaiting the new Death Penalty specs myself. And photos of the new Flatlyne...I know with the older model IA subs you had to call to get parameters and box recommendations. That's what I was thinking. Box recommendations are normally on SSA in their vendor forum, but haven't been updated for a while. I think Nick is just too overloaded to come here and update them right now. Keeps other companies from cloning them (cough Skar cough). In terms of business practice, I think it's smart, but sucks for us as the consumer.

Wow so they are butt holes because they don't post T/S specs for reasons but they will email you them if you ask. Recently they been busy with World Finals, releasing a whole new lineup, etc. I just got T/S specs for subs from them through email, with no issues. I actually got an email from Nick this morning. At least for the Death Penalty, he hasn't had a chance to extract T/S yet, which is why they're not posted. I'm sure once his schedule frees up a bit, he'll be able to let us know. In all honesty, I've seen more posted T/S for the current run of subs than I've seen for any of the previous. What's ironic is there's more T/S for the Flatlyne, yet no published pictures.

I agree to a certain extent, but some of us want to know how FR is affected as enclosure size goes up or down. When you give us a min/max/average volume, it doesn't tell us how efficient or how flat/low it will extend, leading me as a consumer to want the largest enclosure, but going in blind when I have my builder make an enclosure. As mentioned before, he doesn't have T/S for my 18" DP at the moment which is why I'm thankful the build won't be taking place until the middle of next year. Hopefully he has them by then.

since I cant find a tripple alt bracket for my 01' Tahoe 5.3L other than the DC Power's bracket. Would that be able to be used with my stock alt and two Mechman G series 240 alts?