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Being from where I am, I eat a lot of pussy.

Item(s) for Sale: Highly efficient, Class G/H sound quality amps here... 1) Arc Audio KS-300.4 (4 ch) original box 2) Arc Audio KS-500.1 (1 ch) original box + bass knob ((KS-300.4)) 90 x 4 @ 4 Ω 175 x 4 @ 2 Ω ((KS-500.1)) 600 x 1 @ 2Ω & 1Ω Item(s) Description/Condition: 9/10 Cosmetic 10/10 Functional Price: $450 for both no trades Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information: lets talk Item Pictures:

Title says it all, I have Two GTX 680 2gb Cards from EVGA for sale, adult owned, never Overclocked for sale. I am the orgional owner and I have had them for about 5 months. Looking for 280 Each + Shipping each!

Pretty Funny. NOT SPAM

http://vimeo.com/80704110

Be best to start a build log to insure everything is done right.

Too much input can fry the amp if it doesn't have a protection circuit.

No, it's akin to having the volume knob turned to a low level on the head unit. Most amps have a range starting around ~.9 volts so in theory you'd be able to get close to full output from the amp since you would be at ~.6 volts.

A milliamperes is one thousands of am amp. The PAC piece increases by a factor of ten. So you'd be at 6 tenths of an amp if I figured in my head correctly?

Here's a decent little update. Got the speaker and RCA wires for the Solid 2 ran back to the amp rack. While I was at it I trimmed some more on the interior panel that hides the wires in hopes that it fits in place a little better than after the last time. I built a small frame for the Solid 2 to mount to and adapt it to the mounting pattern of the 125.2 while still allowing plenty of ventilation for it. Then I used the same standoffs to lift the 125.2 up to hold up the frame and got all that mounted. Now I just need to find some 1/4-20 screws and cut them to the right length to screw into the tapped holes in the frame and mount the Solid 2 down. Then it's gravy from there hooking up the amp and working on getting it tuned in. I designed the amp rack to be secure yet easy to remove in the event I needed to move or remove it for some reason. That, thankfully, worked like a charm to get this little project underway. Here's the beginnings of the frame for the Solid 2. I found some 3/16" x 3/4" flat stock in a junk pile here at work. I cut it to the lengths I needed for the frame and welded them together. I suck at welding but it should be plenty strong enough for this little job. Working to make sure it's square and true. All finished welding it up and cleaning up the welds. Here's the frame with the holes drilled that will mount it to the stand offs above the 125.2 Shot it with some primer. Here's the additional speaker wires and RCA's ran for the Solid 2. The first of the stand offs for the frame attached to the 125.2 I got these great and awesome bits that drill, tap and bevel the hole all in one great little bit from GreenLee. Used the 1/4-20 to drill and tap these all at once. Here's the frame ready to be tightened down onto the standoffs. Finally, this is basically what it will look like when the Solid 2 is mounted down and into place on the frame. All I lack now is the bolts to mount the Solid 2 down to the frame, hooking it up and putting the truck back together, lol. I can't wait to get to tuning everything.

ROFL mmmm, vag cake

Happy 27th to one of our long time mods/members.

Video of the Avy from the Vegas Demo session put on for JP while he was out here for Sema.

Okay, finally took the time to get the PR's turned around and properly installed. It looks WAY better this way, lol, as you can see by the pictures. Now it's time to get that Focal Solid 2 installed so I can start playing with things in the front actively. It looks as though I'm going to have to just go ahead and make it part of the rest of the amp rack. I still have LOTS of the stand offs I used to lift the 125.2 over the 1500 so I'm going to just do the same with the Focal. The difference being, due to it's miniscule size, is that I'm going to have to make a small frame for it to mount to that will then mount to the stand offs lifting and holding it above the 125.2. Then I'm just going to run the power down and connect it to the XP950 so all I have to run is the RCA's and speaker wires up to the front. Anyway, onto the pics of the enclosure, sub and PR's finally completely finished.

3-4 weeks is normal, remember 10-15 BUSINESS days. That's 2-3 weeks

An alternator outputs current based on demand to maintain adequate system voltage. This is why your lights might dim when you suddenly increase current demand (turn AC on full blast, etc)...there is a bit of a lag between when the current is demanded and when the alternator can supply the additional current. Besides starting the car, this is what the battery is for...to supply the additional current needed during these sudden increases before the alt picks up the slack.Think about it logically....if there was only 100A of demand but the alt was producing 250A....where would the additional 150A of current "go"? Think of it this way.....current isn't just produced, it is drawn by the load. There has to be a demand for the current, which is based on the load and voltage. Simple test. Get a clamp meter and put it on your alt cable. Start the car with all accessories off and then gradually start adding loads by turning on accessories.

Best Advice is to ask Don at SDS, sound deadener showdown. Guy is a god with this kind of stuff. He will tell you what you need and only sell you what you need.

Couple new videos of the truck in action. Had alot of fun this past weekend. had a show here in Vegas on Saturday and then drove over to Phoenix for their MECA State Finals. The truck is getting louder and still has a ways to go. Once I max it out where it is now, then I will consider wiring down to see what it does there and if the amps don't protect.

I figured if anyone else opens the amp rack and tries to work on it, it would be damn near impossible to screw it up.

did this score ever get verified by you jacob? just seams very very unbelievably awesome! lol

Wait, what? A batteries load does not tell what the alternator should do. If you have a 250a alt it will push that 250a into the battery no matter how charged your battery is.An alternator only supplies enough current (within it's limits) to keep it's target voltage constant--adhering to Ohm's law.So an alternator rated for 250amps is not going supply 250amps constantly unless their is an electrical device installed that requires 250a. It should also be noted that engine rpm / alternator rpm can affect output, but that's getting off point. Correct me if I'm wrong. An alternator is a dumb device. If your at the rpm range where the 250a alternator puts out 250a it will do so. Maybe I have to go back and read as well, but that's what I have always known