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Another mountain shot. J might remember being here.

<---heading to Zakk Wylde's Black Label Society "unblacked" (acoustical) show in Grand Junction here in just a few minutes!!!!!! Should be an epic night.

Michelangelo: "Sure I'll paint your ceiling" Michelangelo under his breath: but it's gonna have a bunch of dudes with they dicks out.

Six year old wants a knight themed room. Starting a castle head board for him.

There are a few that fit, but I bet my mids play bass as well as they do. Wouldn't the under seat sub reinforce what's already there? Close proximity too, with the added bonus of not bumping out kiddos. More sound displacement is more sound displacement.small excursion small box low SD doesn't do well for lfeI didn't realize you were going for so much impact. Is there no physical way a sub that shallow can still produce 30hz sufficiently? What's the limiting factor in the design? Is there a company that pushes the design to the edge of the limiting factor? It isn't impact but balance. I don't want to have to have 3 processor setups for different listening volumes. The next portion is flexibility. I can surely have the mids do more work, but then they get funky at reference levels. Limiting factor is Sd & excursion of course assuming the rest of the parameters let you use the excursion. On a normal day the sub won't do much. Doesn't mean I won't appreciate it. The rest of the truck is over the top...makes me think wimping out on the subs isn't right. I also lose flexibility if I do which I don't like. In particular since everything else in the truck is so flexible. Hell I already have an extra MiniDSP for the sub/s as well.

I missed the headers. Mine came yesterday

The carb is wrong because everything else is. I won't comment on his hatred of Holley. Honestly, I woukd get some casting numbers off the heads geton the Mustang forums and get more information. You just need to know what you have first. There's so much knowledge out there and engines are simple machines. Yep, that motor can swallow the carb IF the rest is built to match

Those mountains.... flat land is so damn boring!

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory?I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge. Cam timing yes. The reason you hear "big" cams having a lopey idle is they are struggling to stay running due to valve overlap. You have both valves open at the same time, but not fully, and vacuum quickly ,goes away. This is why some radical cars need to run a vacuum pump.Temp of course will affect it as well, but cam timing is the big determining factor. Yes it has a very lumpy cam. Did not realize both valves are opening at the same time, big clue. Unfortunately I do not know the cam specs.I started with the timing at 12 degrees before top dead center at idle (factory spec), and it had hard start and was sluggish. Moved the timing to 18 BTDC, and was better, now at 28 BTDC at idle and starts good, and runs like a rapped ape at higher rpms. I changed the mechanical to only advance 8 degrees and all in by 2000 rpms. So idle is 28 and advanced total timing is 36 degrees. Did I get carried away with the idle timing? What benifit does a race car get from locking the timing out at 36, with no advance? Can the cam be clocked when installed, throwing me off? Ambient temp could play into it. I started setting everything up in the winter. That's another factor I forgot. If you're running fine and not getting any knock, I wouldn't worry about your timing. Just be aware hotter air is less dense and more prone to preignition.Your cam may be advanced ir retarded depending on sprockets. So you are saying I may need to back the advance off bc its warmer ouside now? How would the cam sprocket play into the equation, or how could it effect me?If you are detonating, pinging, knocking, etc, back the base timing a couple degrees or run higher octane. ignitiin has nothing to do with your vacuum issues though.

Your cam and carb are too big. Factory heads will not flow, wait. Are they HiPo heads?

No knocking sounds.More timing=more heat=more power? Not looking for efficiency, but more POWER! I have a 650 cfm carb, the engine is a 289ci. The reason I'm not asking the mustang forum is they will just tell me carb is to big. I disagree with them for my setup. Might need to find a racing forum. when I read the first sentence, that was my thought. Honestly, I think your cam is too aggressive and your heads too small.

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory?I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge. Cam timing yes. The reason you hear "big" cams having a lopey idle is they are struggling to stay running due to valve overlap. You have both valves open at the same time, but not fully, and vacuum quickly ,goes away. This is why some radical cars need to run a vacuum pump. Temp of course will affect it as well, but cam timing is the big determining factor. Yes it has a very lumpy cam. Did not realize both valves are opening at the same time, big clue. Unfortunately I do not know the cam specs. I started with the timing at 12 degrees before top dead center at idle (factory spec), and it had hard start and was sluggish. Moved the timing to 18 BTDC, and was better, now at 28 BTDC at idle and starts good, and runs like a rapped ape at higher rpms. I changed the mechanical to only advance 8 degrees and all in by 2000 rpms. So idle is 28 and advanced total timing is 36 degrees. Did I get carried away with the idle timing? What benifit does a race car get from locking the timing out at 36, with no advance? Can the cam be clocked when installed, throwing me off? Ambient temp could play into it. I started setting everything up in the winter. That's another factor I forgot. If you're running fine and not getting any knock, I wouldn't worry about your timing. Just be aware hotter air is less dense and more prone to preignition. Your cam may be advanced ir retarded depending on sprockets.

On the plus side, I got to watch Ivy whoop ass in tennis yesterday!

J the advice I posted was from someone with exactly the same symptoms as you describe on a similar engine build. Wild cam, bored, stroked, ported and polished. Used to be a 289. Ended up closer to a 360cu in. Holley carb. Just like you he step by step adjusted the carb for our altitude, timing and the like. That's what worked for him.

J - been talking with some old school techs. They tell me you should shrink the gap on the linkage to the accelerator pump. So it will react faster to an on demand WOT.

And please challenge everything I say. I am in the learning stage myself. That all being said, thanks for reminding me I need to start reading again. Going to bring the Banish book with me to Asia. Just ordered Corky Bell's book as well.

No knocking sounds.More timing=more heat=more power? Not looking for efficiency, but more POWER! I have a 650 cfm carb, the engine is a 289ci. The reason I'm not asking the mustang forum is they will just tell me carb is to big. I disagree with them for my setup. Might need to find a racing forum. Have you done head work? Even with a big bump stick that carb is too big. And btw, you ARE looking for efficiency. Power is proportional to efficiency.

Stock cam? Does it fall instantly, or gradually, or at high rpm? It has a very lumpy cam. The fall is instant when you try to get into it. Seriously happens at ANY RPM?? ie, try idle to floor 2000 to floor 3000 to floor 4000 to floor I would expect at some point it doesn't hesitate. Understanding where it is in relation to your high and low speed circuits will help the trouble shooting.

This is very possible J. Ideally the Holley would have a 3/8 fuel line and electric fuel pump. I replaced the factory 5/16 before I realized this. I have a fuel gauge installed out the carburetor, which reads correctly at 7 lbs. The car runs great once it is through the hesitation though, and screams when you punch it on the highway!! I have the correct electric fuel pump, and may have to replace the line again to 3/8. Mechanical or electrical pump? An electric pump will only lean out at RPM as the demands for fuel are higher then. Mechanical I have no idea what the delivery curve looks like.

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow.Vacuum is created on the initial stroke which fills the cylinders. The up stroke compresses the air/fuel mixture. Spark ignites the mixture which forces the piston down or the power stroke, then final stroke back up is to exhaust the gases and empty the cylinder to begin again. Poor choice of words on my part. Should've said, vacuum strength can being manipulated with timing. Without overthinking it, I believe this is because of the thermal aspect. Am I wrong in theory?I am pretty keen on the four cycles btw, but still appreciate your knowledge. Cam timing yes. The reason you hear "big" cams having a lopey idle is they are struggling to stay running due to valve overlap. You have both valves open at the same time, but not fully, and vacuum quickly ,goes away. This is why some radical cars need to run a vacuum pump.Temp of course will affect it as well, but cam timing is the big determining factor. Yes it has a very lumpy cam. Did not realize both valves are opening at the same time, big clue. Unfortunately I do not know the cam specs.I started with the timing at 12 degrees before top dead center at idle (factory spec), and it had hard start and was sluggish. Moved the timing to 18 BTDC, and was better, now at 28 BTDC at idle and starts good, and runs like a rapped ape at higher rpms. I changed the mechanical to only advance 8 degrees and all in by 2000 rpms. So idle is 28 and advanced total timing is 36 degrees. Did I get carried away with the idle timing? What benifit does a race car get from locking the timing out at 36, with no advance? Can the cam be clocked when installed, throwing me off? Ambient temp could play into it. I started setting everything up in the winter. That's another factor I forgot. Race cars optimize the spark flame for a particular high range of RPMs. On the street you need it to vary since the velocity of the piston changes with RPM and the flame front needs to be balanced to match it. ie, the speed of the "explosion" is the same. To make it "time" the same in the piston stroke you need to have it happen earlier the faster the piston is moving. Their is an ideal point which is somewhat dangerous in case any conditions change, but at that point you maximize the pressure in the cylinder. Higher pressure = more torque.

J - you aren't hearing any knock are you? I am not following the jump from Temp to Vacuum. From what I know, the ideal gas law states. PV=nRT Therefore more cylinder pressure = higher temp. You can surely adjust your pressure with spark timing and along with it pressure. As for vacuum, it is created by the piston moving up and down. The carb restricts flow of air causing there to be vacuum. In a completely efficient engine the rate of flow of air would be the overall displacement of the engine multiplied by the number of strokes it takes during that time. The only time then you should have "positive" vacuum is when you are not delivering that much air via some restriction. Obviously at idle you will have more since the throttle/carb is nearly closed. I see that as efficiency, so on one aspect less heat = more efficiency and more efficiency has more capability to "suck" air but I am having a problem connecting the two. I am far from a guru on anything engines in the cause and effect realm, but something I'd like to learn more about.