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Thanks for your order. I fully understand the excitement to get the new subs. The mass majority of the year, the average lead time is a little under the stated 21 business days. But there are peak load times where we just overload the build house with the order queue. This is why we now have Dcon's and Gcon's in standing inventory. The other aspect is that the SSA subs are made to order in the USA, which means small man power to keep the overall pricing competitive. The build house is going at max capacity right now and we will update your order status asap.

Wasn't meant in a negative fashion at all, I replied before going all the way through the thread.

waited at least 45 business days, twice. (two Xcon 15") But well worth the wait!

They do their best. But this is competition season so things can get backed up. You will also never find more honest owners than SSA!

Yeah I'm pretty sure it will be worth the wait, I just didn't want to suffer a 12 hour vacation drive without bass lol. I wish I would have ordered these a few months prior to when I did.

One thing about it- you'll prolly have your favorite subs ever. Love my xcon! So much so that I had one, sold it, then realized how good it was- so I bought another. I've since ran Incriminator Death row, and Tantric HDD's, and the Xcon is still my favorite.

Have a good Birthday Bro!

I have a hard time not doing 75 in a 40

Thank you very much guys!!!!!!

Happy birfday mang =]

That's understandable, and I appreciate it, but where was he over a month ago? lol.. Just seems silly to post that after I made a purchase.When one of the owners of ssa offer you a deal maybe you should at least listen to the offer

Happy Birthday!

Even if it was old, he was trying to help and save you some money.

Removing my message. Sorry.

Enjoy the drunken bday!! J

happy bday

Happy birthday man!

Happy bday

Hey guys, sorry I was gone for soo long. The shop rebuilt a box with a design that I gave them. I then did several modifications to my truck and went to Slamology. Here are some pics, and a flex video. 146.18 Also, here is a video on the system in action with all the new changes I am loving it, other than the fact that I have destroyed every roof brace that I have. That will be my project next weekend, to get the headliner out re-weld the braces and get more support and sound deadening in the roof.

Like I said, it is a phase issue. It is more than just driver spacing... **Edit** And don't forget, just like any acoustic/electrical phasing/coupling as you increase efficiency by decreasing radiated pattern/beamwidth, it does just that... So phasing can become a serious issue and is why you'll never really see those huge gains. I'm not saying you wrong, I am just saying there is so much more to this than simple driver spacing.

Kind of a misleading statement... The drivers could be completely dis-coupled (as you state it) and loose zero net output if there are no phase differentials... It is simply about phase issues between drivers, that is rarely an issue if the box is somewhat symmetrical... In a properly build enclosure, there is never any output gained by common airspace, the only exception being minimum vent dimensions... not completely I made that statement after years of testing with a termlab , I'v even built removeable baffles so I could test the difference with the subs together and apart , the improvement is not always dramatic but I always get better results with the subs almost kissing each other in the same cavity the old school rule of thumb is to be with in a voice coil diameter of each other but I try and keep them about an inch apart Mutual Coupling of Loudspeakers Mutual coupling of two or more loudspeakers occurs then they are reproducing th same signal with their acoustic centers close together and pointing in about the same direction at wavelengths smaller than the distance between the two centers. The combined sound signal is propagating forward like one single waveform, the two or more smaller drivers behave like one larger one. The centers of two loudspeakers must be close enough together between 1/4 wavelength and 1/2 wavelength. The higher the wavelength the shorter the necessary distance between the two centers to build up mutual coupling. The actual effect is always direction depending because of cancellations off-axis. Actually (theoretically) the coupling exactly on-axis occurs always independent of the spacing. At smaller wavelengths cancellation occurs earlier off-axis. At longer wavelengths the angle off-axis without strong cancellations is larger. The mutual coupling should be seen a an effect of the average sound level on-axis and off-axis. The acoustic centers' distance and the wavelength of the signal actually determine the angle over which mutual coupling occurs. no mutual coupling with acoustic centers more than 1/2 wavelength separated mutual coupling with acoustic centers less than 1/2 wavelength separated With two loudspeakers next to each other at a distance of more than the wavelength of the reproduced frequency the average measured volume on-axis and off-axis adds up for +3dB (double power). With two loudspeakers close enough to get mutual coupling the volume adds up for +6dB. Because of the physical size of loudspeaker chassis mutual coupling always occurs only at frequencies below about 500 Hz.

that new pic shows a double baffle with a top trim peice , that changes it a bit inner volume is now 7.998cf3 , take off sub displacement .34 and port displacement .486 that leaves you with 7.172cf3 take off slightly more for the window brace and peices glued to the walls your tuning is 33hz and the port velocity isn't really that bad , here are a couple screenshots I put it thru 3 different programs ..the velocity was slightly different but we will go with the new Termpak I do not like the way the subs are seperated by that double window bracing and port ,that's just stopping the subs from efficiently cupping the interior volume

Thanks for clearing that up for me. Was just asking because my box for my zcon is similar to the way you described.

For the old box you had. You said the motors were right above the port? Like blocking the port? Or just covering the back of the sub? What kind of issues would that cause?

Removing this one as well