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Greetings and salutations beings of the internet. I come bearing random thoughts ramblings and a build log. This will be version 3 of my 2004 suburban. The setup: Sony XAV-701HD Stevens Audio Full Size Horns Beyma 8BR40 8" Mids Arc PS8 Bazooka MGA series Amps Stereo Integrity DS4 18 sealed 6cuft This is also the simplest iteration. I employed the KISADUWDATTDT method: Keep It Simple And Don't Upgrade When Done And Tune The Damn Thing. Just a little FYI the horn install happened a few years ago. This a compilation of a build that spanned a few years. Up first are the horns. You've seen one you've seen them all but just in case here is a pic. I designed in CAD and had CNC plasma cut some brackets. I did a little prepping of the horn bodies before installing. Here is the passenger side mocked up in place. The final install. For those who can get enough pics here is a link to more: http://s1005.photobucket.com/user/onebadmonte32/slideshow/The rebuild/horn update Stay tuned for moar updates.

I made some kick pods that can actually be kicked, but I won't appreciate it if you do it intentionally during a demo. This is the vision with the little Beyma 8BR40 in place. Layed up some glass. Made some kick ass rings with some simple steel mesh grills. I'm using some threaded wood inserts and 8-32 button head cap screws to hold everything down. After some blood, sweat, and many many many tears I got some pods made. After a fresh coat of rubber undercoating I mounted the pods to the kick panels. The final install More pics can be seen here: http://s1005.photobucket.com/user/onebadmonte32/Suburban V3/Kick Pods/story Moar updates coming up.

And now for a little bottom end brought to you via a Stereo Integrity DS4 18. Freshly cut wood. I'm using a textured piece of abs plastic one the baffle for a little something extra. Box with a pair of Bazooka MGA1100h strapped (2KW) to the 18. Boom! Bazooka 4 channel, Arc PS8 and Stinger wire goodies. A little carpeting action. Finished product. Pics for those that gotta have moar! http://s1005.photobucket.com/user/onebadmonte32/Suburban V3/Sub Box/story Thanks for looking.

Got me a little something extra for the PS8. Drew me up a little housing to mount in the dash. Laser cut FTW! Formed and welded. Cut some mounting ears and welded some flanged nuts using works tig. Used my crappy flux core mig at home to eff everything up. The final install For more behind the scenes pics: http://s1005.photobucket.com/user/onebadmonte32/Suburban V3/PS8 Pod/story Thanks for looking.

I hope to pop over from our booth.

If an item is unable to be added to your shopping cart, that means they are out of stock or on back order essentially.

The cats are going bad anyways, and it would be more expensive to put it back stock. So I might as well built it like I want and be done with it. Can't wait to hear how it sounds !!! I love a bad ass dual exhaust setup !!!

That last sentence is my focus of all this sweet talk.

They both are HDS300 series subwoofer, apparently they upgraded recently. The top picture is version #2 and the bottom picture is version #1, the original model. As far as differences dont really know so cant help there.

I would love to see safer packaging protection for y'all Evil midbass speakers, just received mine in the mail. Mine was just sliding around in the box, Evil box is partially beat up. Ill take having to clean up packaging peanuts rather than just paper placed in there, or at least more paper to keep the contents in place. Thanks

Just look at the numbers it will give you some idea of how loud and what it might sound like. Vas, BL all that stuff.

Just put a order for 4 new hems in for a friend back east. Stoked to see them, and hear them.

I would rather spend my money on Sennheiser earbuds..

Like stated before subs dont need a break in. Taking it easy on a subwoofer will only further delay the soft parts loosening up.

I have been ask a few very common questions, so I figured I would just post some of them up. If you have any questions post them up. I will answer them or find the answer for you. CCA is the maximum amperes that can be continuously removed from a battery for 30 seconds at 0°F before its voltage drops to unusable levels. A 550 CCA battery can supply 550 amperes for 30 seconds at 0°F. This was important back in the days when vehicles took a long time to start. Now if you put a charge to your starter for 30 seconds it would probably burn up, and it doesn't make any difference in car audio. CCA is the same test as above but at 32°F. AMP-HOUR RATING is a unit of measurement for battery capacity, obtained by multiplying a current flow in amperes by the time in hours of discharge. (Example: A battery which delivers 5 amperes for 20 hours delivers 5 amperes times 20 hours, or 100 ampere-hours.) So, unless you are running a system that has a low amperage pull for hours this rating is useless. Deep Cycle Batteries/Cranking Batteries: Flooded batteries use the Deep Cycle info a lot and with some battery companies and types of batteries you have to buy a separate battery for starting. With XS Power our batteries can be used as starting batteries or as secondary batteries. Our batteries are engineered with advanced technology that gives the batteries the ability to be used as a starting battery and as a deep cycle battery.

Mathew and I have been working on bringing this site to launch for a little while and today is the day. The domain is mostly propogated over to the new host, so without further adue... Vehicle Specific Subwoofer Enclosures and more. They are still adding products on it as I type. SSA will also sell their great CNC cut, hand assembled enclsoures. Check them out! http://soundoffaudio.com/

This never got answered, and I've always wondered the same. After making the statement that the AH rating is useless, what should we be looking at to judge the power of a battery? Actually it has been answered more times than I care to remember............lol but just not on this forum I guess. The ratings you need to look at are not there. Plain and simple. I know that is not what you want to hear, but it is in the truth. There is no one rating that is recognized in the industry that really relates to mobile audio. CCA and CA doesn't relate because it takes the voltage down to low in the testing. AH and RC are low amperage pulls, which doesn't relate. There will probably never be a single rating you can look at to determine which battery is the best for mobile audio. So what is there to look for? Performance History, Company History, Battery Make Up, Battery Design, Customer Service, and the company and products track record. Sorry it is not easier, but that unfortunately is just the way it is.

I did edit my post on the AH comment. I shouldn't have said useless, because it does have some importance but is not the Yes, there is some truth to mixing the batteries. We do not recommend mixing batteries with different chemistry make up. For instance in your case our batteries have a different chemistry make up than the optimas, and over time the bigger XS Power battery will drain the smaller optima. How about mixing same brand but dif. Model of xs battery like d3400 and d3100? That would be fine. We have a lot of guys running different sizes of batteries in the same vehicle and a very common install is the 3400 under the hood and 3100s in the back.

Yes, there is some truth to mixing the batteries. We do not recommend mixing batteries with different chemistry make up. For instance in your case our batteries have a different chemistry make up than the optimas, and over time the bigger XS Power battery will drain the smaller optima.