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You didn't look up interference Credibility comes from knowledge. I don't like sharing things like that because I believe the answers are in the meat of the conversation...but you aren't reading the conversation with anything but blinders on so I will. I am a degreed Acoustician. I do consulting work within the audio industry. You name a big speaker manufacturer in the US and I've had engineers there ask for my assistance in development. This includes integration in cars as well. I run a company that has over $10M in audio and vibration measurement equipment in North American alone. You are missing the fundamental basis for understanding acoustics. I am trying to help, but you are getting defensive instead of reading.

Chad I feel you are going about this all wrong. Here is what needs to happen. Pretend your car has 0 speakers and you didnt do anything to it yet. This is where we want to help you from. To try and tell you how to make 700 speakers on 800 different amps work and sound good isnt going to happen over the internet or ever for that matter. We are trying to help get you on the right path and im sorry to say it but its going to take ripping out all your stuff and starting fresh(ya i know no one ever wants to hear that). If you were to come to my shop and ask me to help you with your car i wouldn't touch it unless it was to yank it all out and start fresh. I am a custom audio shop owner and have built over hundreds of walls and hundreds of enclosures and have had cars with 8 6.5s in eaxh door(check the basstro build in the logs). And it took me reading up on info M5 shared for me to know less is more and way better. So i said all that to say this. No one here is your enemy. No one here is going to make any money off you. Everyone here is taking time out to respond to your questions and concerns. No trolls here. But honestly i have been following you like a troll and I can say your not reading the info your being given. Your just going off your experience and trying to have us figure out a way for your car to sound better. J road and M5 have supplied you with all the proper information and links aswell. M5 told you to google and unless he has stocks in them than he will make 0 off your research ability. So Chad please take what we are saying with a grain of salt. It will help it taste much better.

We sent it pretty good a couple weekends ago: That's my Jeep, commentary is to make fun of the other Jeeps in the club who tried it the evening before on 36 inch tires and couldn't make it. The rest of the Jeep club took off on the trail while I was towing an XJ to the meet-up point. So we took the sleigh, a tire tube, some alcohol and spent almost a full day having fun.

Why would I post up more links or information for you when I can tell you did not read the two links I left in your biuld log? The one clearly went over speaker applications and crossovers. The second one clearly went over crossovers and reflections. As far as improving on what you have. 1. Get the gains and xover set right. If you have questions please ask. Try to keep the question short and to the point without coloring it with the unneeded information. Read the links and if you did reread them. 2. Stiffen up the mounting points of all the woofers. You are losing a lot of acoustical energy in the midbass range. I do not need to hear the car to tell you this. Mount wooden baffles or braces on the backside of the panels will be the most cost-effective. Where you think you only need two layers of sound dampener, put four. You can test this now by applying pressure/placing your hand on the panel next to the speakers when you are playing some midbass heavy music. See how it changes the sound! 3. Deal with reflections. Reflections have their own time signature. No amount of settings will get rid of this signature. It must be done with manually by placing absorbent material over reflective surfaces. Such as a dash mat or covering hard surfaces with a soft material. You can do testing now by placing towels or blankets over all the hard surfaces and see how it changes the sound! 4. Lastly is to touch on the cancellation/constructive/distructive distortion and comb filtering. This comes in many forms such as distortion in the music source. Distortion introduced from other equipment in the sources line, such as high THD of amplifiers being driven at 2ohms. Speaker companies even design harmonic distortion into the mid bass range, to make the speakers sound warmer. So the things you could improve on other than understanding the above paragraph. Install an acoustical barrier to block the back waves of the woofers. The back waves of the speakers interacting with the front waves, causing cancellation/distractive/constructive distortion and comb filtering. No real way to test this other than to know the speakers true acoustical signature from playing it inside of a enclosure in a controlled environment, before installing it in the car! I know you're trying to get it to sound better now, as you willingly admitted to me you thought it sounded better before.

Im sure A-a-ron will chime in once he sees it. But i stopped by to say sorry man. That is rough. But such a sexy coil right. Lol. I had a customer cut into there spider(not sure what they were doing) and woofer was 2 weeks old. And so I was able to pull it apart and it had such a pretty coil.

Love me some pink doughnut first thing in the morning!! The filling has a little extra tang!!

Don't know. The Renault BBQ is in late May. Quick, hide the drugs! Of course! LS swap everything! Some tuners ranted about the modern turbo engines being optimized for tons of midrange torque (at least on German land barges). Which doesn't make them so great for tuning. Soft boiled eggs, soft fried eggs, do dreamy, so silky smooth Hah, my XXX has been in use for longer

Quality crossover and car audio crossover is an oxymoron. A single cap can be a crossover, but a simple one with a 6dB slope. The manual didn't post right, but I don't need one. Designing crossovers is not rocket science, but a good one is usually as expensive if not moreso than the drivers you use. Any and EVERY driver should have a crossover on it. Otherwise it is going to be playing all frequencies. 20Hz in a tweeter is worse than 5kHz in a sub, but your response will be a hot mess if you don't use a crossover to optimize what speaker plays what. A quality passive and a well setup active will mimic each other perfectly. They are electronically analogous. The only problem is you do not have good passives so your question is moot. EQ is also not for compensating for location or reflection. It is mean to allow you to cut out anomalies in the system. Those could be caused by either of the above, but it is a last resort not a first step. Flat? NEVER. Why do you care what the response of your stereo is if YOU find it perfect. You should also generally NOT have to adjust for source material. That shows that the calibration of your system is way off. Do note that of course you will hear differences in sound, but it shouldn't be as drastic as you state. One 4x10 sucks donkey. In fact there is no such thing as a good 4x10. I have to apologize in your first thread I really, really, really thought you were a troll posting misinformation and confusion to get a reaction. I now see that it is regrettably real. To answer this last question, I want to start with a question to make sure I go back far enough. Do you understand constructive and deconstructive interference? If not, google it and then come back with questions regarding it and it will make it very easy to clear up why multiple drivers are not a good thing. You have an amazing amount of work in your car and have done a really nice job installing things; however, the information that led you to think you were doing something that would help your sound is really far off from reality. Somehow along the way someone really confused you and caused you to spend a superfluous amount of money to have very lackluster results. We can fix it, but first you need to understand why.

Yassssssssss queen! OMG. Iron Man Food. I need me some!

Found a nice little Milwaukee bit set to go with it..The makita bit sets they had in stock was crap though..

Found this combo kit on sale guys! Decided to go with makita..Took you guys advice and stayed away from ridgid.

I use a miniDSP for my front stage and the Kenwood DDX9903 headunit for the sub. Means I only have a crossover for the sub and no eq, but I am running sealed anyways and have it pretty gained down as even with a beefy 7" mid blending the midbass is the limitation.