Leaderboard

Finally got around to trying ceramic on the 4runner. Lots of work, but well worth it. Still have the winter sneakers on her.

Slow build, but wanted to get a build log going.

That shine is impressive my man. looks like a new car!

DAMN!! Killing it playa'!! keep the pic's coming.

Holy shit correcting paint is a lot of work! Spent most of the day doing that and about an hour applying the ceramic. Looks like a sheet of glass and once it is fully cured I will take a picture.

Here it is... http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/33898-amplifier-headroom/?tab=comments#comment-590813

3&4 have the HP setting that can be adjusted down to 15hz which easily gets the crossover out of the way. You’re correct on the mono amp though, just adjust it to the top of it’s adjustment and let the DSP do the work. That sub will probably handle 1500wrms without a problem, however due to the dynamic nature of music it won’t really be a concern. As a matter of fact the extra headroom from the few hundred extra watts on tap will only help prevent distortion. That will help it sound better and be easier on the sub in the long run. Headroom is a good thing as long as you can understand what the limitations are and act accordingly when you believe there could be a problem while it’s playing. I’m currently running a rated 300wrms a channel to a set of components that are rated 125wrms. I have a pair of Fountek FR88EX 3” full range drivers rated 15wrms being powered by 75wrms. I also ran a pair of 10” SSA DCON’s (rated 400wrms) on an Arc Audio XDi2000 that had 2.5x their rated power on tap. The only reason I had an issue with the DCON’s is because the enclosure failed and they were mechanically damaged. Those subs were fine thermally. The components and full range are running great still. The headroom on tap allows me to get incredible clean response from the speakers I’m using but I also don’t get stupid with the volume knob. Don’t get me wrong I do push things hard but I’m VERY alert to what’s going on and I have the crossover and EQ settings dialed in to allow me to get by with that kind of power headroom. For what it’s worth another forum member had the same components with 600wrms on tap for each channel. It’s just a matter of setting things up correctly and knowing you’re not using every bit of that power except on the most dynamic (powerful) musical peaks. There’s a thread on the forum related to headroom and the dynamics of music. It’s a great read to get a firm grasp on the subject. I’ll see if I can find a link.

Yes, it sure can, and the amp has active capable crossovers so you can control the cutoff frequencies for the tweeters and the mids as well for a truly active setup. The only thing you don’t get in such a setup as you’re looking to do is time alignment, unless your HU has manually adjustable time alignment for each individual output channel. If that’s the case then you’re all set for the best experience of a highs setup you could ask for short of running a DSP.

Just some speaker wire being ran, driver side done the exact same way. No after pictures, I still need to find a way through the molex connectors.

Nice Ride Brother

Powa!

I told myself I wasnt going to take any panels off or run any wires on this car and just let a shop do it. Luckily I found some DIYer YouTube videos and made it happen. Power wire is ran, but not hooked up to the front battery yet, waiting to replace front battery soon. Factory battery came stock with an AGM but rather get a new one just to be on safe side since its 3 to 4 years old.

Temporary subwoofer amplifier installed, still waiting on other pieces to get here.

Temporary ground wire and distribution block for trunk, sanded down to metal and covered in plasti dip. Once I get an AGM battery for the rear after I upgrade the subwoofer amplifier, it will be replaced with a frame ground.

Front Stage speakers

Enclosure designed and built by a local builder. 3.81 @ 31hz before sub 3.6 @ 32 hz after sub (15" SP4)