Leaderboard

So a car battery is wired to the ignition of the car. When you start a car or turn the key to the ON position it will turn on other components in the car (hvac, lights, etc). This is accomplished with relays. When a relay is switched on it sends 12v from the battery to the components wired to that relay (lights for example). If a car didn't do this then the battery would be drained because all the components in the car would be constantly powered on. So if you look at basic wiring diagram for a headunit you will see the 12V constant power from the battery and accessory power (switched power from the ignition). You can think of the accessory power as the remote IN to the headunit. The headunit will then create a remote out [sometimes called the antenna out, (some cars use this signal to raise the antenna)] which is wired to other audio devices in the car (amps, LOCs, DSP, etc). So these components are effectively passing through the accessory power from the car's ignition.

Well I think its time to start updating this thread again. I took a bit of a break from car audio stuff over the last year or so. In Dec 2016 I was laid off from my job in Illinois and moved to Michigan. Two months later I was offered my position back at my previous job and decided to take it. I'm not a big fan of central IL but the work is considerably more interesting. In 2016-2017 I made a few undocumented upgrades to the car, I swapped out the two minidsp 2x4 units for a minidsp 6x8. Shame I didn't see that dayton audio DSP (perhaps it wasn't out then) but seems like a better deal. I also swapped out the two 2-channel amps that powered the tweeters and midrange drivers w/ a ppi900.4. A few months later I was jumping the car and blew the amp. Not exactly sure why it blew, it was purchased used but I suspect that I it blew because I keyed the car on, connected the battery jumper, and then started the car. Perhaps the voltage drop during the engine crank zapped it. Anyways, I replaced it with a nvx800.4 since you can not find the ppi amps anywhere (and I think I grabbed it from the ssa store, iirc). In 2017 I had to address some significant rust issues with the rocker panels that almost pushed me towards buying a new vehicle. I decided that "repairing" would be a better option as the cost to own a low mileage (2001 w/ 75k mi.) GM sedan is pretty cheap. I cut the rocker panels off below the door seam, separated the pinch weld, and attached a new rocker panel with 3m panel bonding adhesive and self taping screws. Obviously not the correct way to do it but I only drive 15 miles round trip to work and put a whoppping 5k miles on the car last year. I also pulled the fiberglass panels out with the intention to re-upholstery them. But, I haven't gotten to it yet. My original upholstery job looked decent, I managed to get a decent color match with a spray dye/color coat product. But the summer heat caused the glue to fail. I got some tonneau cover adhesive that I hope will work better. Anyways, future plans for the car are to move the midrange drivers up to the A pillar to address some issues with the frequency response from the driver side kick panel. I plan to try out some Markaudio drivers or use my Tangband w4s. I will probably not use a tweeter but I have several lying around if needed. The sls 8s might be swapped out if I cant get the 4" midrange to play low enough. updated pic of the amp rack, https://imgur.com/Gdu11nn

Each piece of equipment will have a positive run that comes from the battery, straight to the + side terminal. There will be a ground that gets connected to the steel chassis, or directly back to the battery. For the remote, this is a 12V trigger lead. Basically, it's a voltage controlled switch that normally comes from the headunit. When the unit comes on, it sends 12V down this wire into the equipment. This is what tells it to turn on. The amp and LOC will require this. That particular LOC though has circuitry that enables it to sense voltage through the speaker wires that are used as a signal source for the input to the LOC. These circuits are sometimes temperamental, so that means sometimes remote line is needed for input to assure the LOC turns on and off as it should. Now this unit also provides an remote output switch as well. The ONLY wire(s) that will go to the battery are the 12V positive inputs. The remote should come from the headunit if possible. If not, he will have to install a relay and wire it up to a circuit that comes on and goes off with the ignition.

Merry Christmas!!

Merry Christmas y'all!

Merry Christmas peoples!

I think that's CHEAP. I'd charge at least $120/ hr for my labor. As for the LOC, it's not difficult at all. He's just letting you know it may take a little more if the voltage sensor does not work properly. I have yet to see a sensor in the home or 12V side that functions properly every time. Either the electronics are too sensitive or not enough and you either have a unit that never shuts off, never turns on, or just flops all over. Honestly, I'd talk to him and tell him you'd just like to have him run a switched lead to a relay to control the Audio Control and then use the remote out feature of it to turn the amp on. This gives you a 12V switch you need and allows for timed on/off to eliminate any potential interference or voltage fluctuations.

Adire and US Acoustics add to the sale.

Small Update. Finished my A-Pillars !!! Got a little work to get back on them later. But for now, I LOVE the way the perform !!! After the holidays, hoping to get back to the doors !!! Thinking metal braces !!!