ssh

If your voltage drops to the 12s then it's relying on your batteries for the power, which means there being drained and not charged. If it's in 13s your batteries are getting some charging but should be fine. xs power batteries are great, I'd get the biggest one you can fit / afford. Also, DC Power makes excellent high output alternators Although there sometimes difficult to get a hold of, but in my opinion as pissed off as I get when I can't get a hold of them, their products are worth it.

I'm going to take a guess, their lighter / easier to maneuver (due to less weight) / engine lasts longer and rebuilding the engine cost a lot less

what about if i want just 1 sub. i have electrical problem and id like to keep the total rms under 1200. i was thinking about 1 15" RE audio sx. it is brand new on ebay with a year warrenty with a box and wires for 300. any thoughts?? I've never used RE, so I don't have any input on the driver. However, I wouldn't buy a driver with a box as it's likely prefab or poorly constructed. Got pictures / specs of the box? Not sure what your budget is, but just because you have two drivers rated at 600watts each doesn't mean you need an amp that makes 1200watts, hell you could feed each driver 300watts and it'd still be loud. If your electrical is a concern you could use more cone area to compensate for less power. crude example: 2 12s 400watts each or 1 12 1500watts. Is adding a battery in the rear a possibility?

There a sound deaden-er company, not a subwoofer company / install shop, having an extremely loud vehicle isn't exactly their top priority...

Happy Birthday Duran!

Link to Event flyer: http://www.mecacaraudio.com/flyers/3-13-11AZ.pdf

Before you run out and buy a new head unit, can you verify this: You didn't happen to disconnect your battery recently? This would clear all your settings on your head unit.

ya that is what i meant to say about the gains! lol thanks stefanhinote! but for quick resetting of the gains be sure to pencil in the old gain position for reference! lol! don't do what i did and be like ya i am going to hook my mp3 player to my amp and turn my gains about half a turn more up and then hook up my rca from my head unit back up to the amp and being like wtf why is it clipping now LMAO yeah. OP, I would first leave the gain set to how it was. Hook up ipod with volume low, start playing a song your familiar with. Gradually turn up the volume, stop if the bass becomes distorted, if you get to max volume and it still sounds good then gradually turn the gain up on the amp. If your bass is noticeably louder then how its been lately from the head unit and still sounds clean, then your head unit is the source of the problem. Whether the head unit itself is faulty or merely the settings are off, I don't know. You didn't by any chance happen to disconnect your battery recently and forgot to change your settings on your head unit after they cleared?

It lost it's loudness? Perhaps it fell into the box, or it's under a seat? How does it sound if you hook your rcas from your ipod to your amp, instead of using head unit to amp. And I read what CrazyKenKid stated, but you may have to adjust your gain when using your ipod, because the ipod signal voltage and head unit voltage are likely different

I'd go with either the xcon, nightshade, fi bl, or fi btl. Either one you can get the better deal on. Xcon is leaned more towards SQ, but it does get loud. (Personally heard them do work BTL is designed to be a very loud but musical driver. BL is similar to BTLs purpose but on a lower level. (I personally had a bl and loved it) Nightshades are designed to get loud as well but still play music like the btls, everyone on the forums who have'm love'm

Bump for a response.

I've read a lot of stuff on here and other forums about Kevin from Skar, a lot of mixed information, weird dealings, etc. I've seen people complain over stupid stuff that isn't a big deal, but I've also seen some sketchy stuff. Personally I'm pretty wary about doing business with him, only time will tell. If your on a budget get some sundown sa12s or sa15s.

Lets see what happens

Your not going to get any help if you ask broad questions like that, I promise you. Too many other variables come into play as to which will be louder. Enclosure, volume, tuning, installation, etc. W7s are nice drivers, there is no doubt about it. But they also come at a hefty price. Many think (I included) can get drivers that perform just as well to our standards for a fair amount less. Why don't you give us some background as to what vehicle your looking to add a sub stage to. What have you listened to before? What is loud to you? I'm assuming your going for SPL, in a daily driver, not competing? Personally I'd just get the btl and call it a day.

If it has a possible bad channel & static, why mess with it?

LoL Our builds logs are stalled because the monsters cant move in till their homes are built. Yeah, has Andrew started your box yet? xcons xcons xcons Na have not heard from him yet, Im gonna call him later on today. Post back if you hear from him I'm wondering if he can still finish boxes now, or if he needs to finish the shop first.

LoL Our builds logs are stalled because the monsters cant move in till their homes are built. Yeah, has Andrew started your box yet? xcons xcons xcons

Awesome score, especially being a trunk

Why not lol just coat it... Plastic: ^I've used those before, worked well in my case

Box looks great, I vote for wrapping it in leather

Do you have a buddy who you can swap amps with just for testing? No real good way for us to tell you how to check if your amp is working 100% correctly. If it turns on and has output then there isn't much to check, I guess you could use a clamp meter to try and gauge the output, but that's pretty vague as is.

The extra set of terminals on the amp are there for convenience, as you stated they are internally bridged, meaning both sets of positive connect behind all the plastic casing, and both sets of negative connect as well. Use the wiring config from 12volt for diagrams on wiring: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

Depends on your listening habits Are you going to be playing at full tilt 99% of the time? Or just for short demos? What battery were you looking at for the rear? I'd get the biggest xs power or kinetik you could afford, watch your voltage at full tilt, if it's consistently low, get a h/o alt.

That's certainly something to take into consideration. I've used welding wire for both my vehicles and haven't had any issues running it around corners, under seats, etc.