edouble101

Nice box build and finishing work! I really dig those Neutrik connectors.

The removable fake faceplate is done. Kenwood hu is not mounted yet, still waiting on the wiring harness!! Mounted Backside Front/topside I will post better pics once the Kenwood is mounted.

I f'n hate having a small car Just fitting a 15 and a couple amps literally takes up my entire trunk

Nice box. The surrounds on those Fi Q's looks beefy

I have read subs forward port up works great for extended cabs. Max two 15's in this configuration, you might be able to squeeze three 12's in there.

Good luck!

Clean install

As long as you are using the proper size wire and have a good ground connection the length is inconsequential

I might need two ZCON 12's to replace my XCON15

Good luck. Post build pics if you do it! Sub bass frequencies will be difficult to achieve due to the horn length, possibly 10's of meters long. 80-250hz are probably do able.

My opinion to your second question. Horn enclosures can offer advantages over other types of enclosures. Higher sensitivity is the biggest plus. In the sub bass frequencies the horn can get very long. Horns have their problems like any kind of speaker, and can be extremely sensitive in the environment they are used. "The enthusiast would say that the advantages outweigh the disadvantages and that the problems are challenges." I enjoy installation challenges. Will I ever build a horn for car audio use, no. Is there a real word benefit in car audio use for sub bass horn enclosures, sure. Implementing the enclosure into the vehicle maybe the issue though. Nothing is impossible. Just ask Jon Whitledge he has the "worlds best car stereo" and it isnt even a car. Hmmmmm, very interesting indeed. And thats all I was asking for, your opinion, I take your opinion(s) in great respect. The reason you will never build one for car audio use, is this because you believe it is not worth the time and effort in building one that may or may not satisfy your needs, or is it more less just not your cup of tea? As in you feel you will feel no diffence in between the designs audibly? And I respect you respecting others opinion I believe it would require a large amount of volume in a large vehicle. I would not be willing to give up that much space if I had a vehicle even big enough to hold such an enclosure. Alan Dante, one of the top SPL competitors, +180db, has a single 18" in a crazy 6th or 8th order horn type enclosure. It is nuts. You should see the "vehicle" it is in. Definitely not road worthy. I think he is running a crazy 18" and two 12"s now breaking 180's.

No HLCD's?

My opinion to your second question. Horn enclosures can offer advantages over other types of enclosures. Higher sensitivity is the biggest plus. In the sub bass frequencies the horn can get very long. Horns have their problems like any kind of speaker, and can be extremely sensitive in the environment they are used. "The enthusiast would say that the advantages outweigh the disadvantages and that the problems are challenges." I enjoy installation challenges. Will I ever build a horn for car audio use, no. Is there a real word benefit in car audio use for sub bass horn enclosures, sure. Implementing the enclosure into the vehicle maybe the issue though. Nothing is impossible. Just ask Jon Whitledge he has the "worlds best car stereo" and it isnt even a car.

Oh yeah, I know there's nothing wrong with a classic style box that is built well. Just kinda window shopping @ different styles to get the most out of a box that is specified for the sub. When I see designs like the one you showed, it makes me wonder though why do they go through all that trouble, if it has no additional benefit then a traditional L shape design Because some moron on the internet keeps proposing that these are workable in car without understanding rudimentary math. There is a huge benefit of a horn loaded enclosure, you just aren't going to fit it in your car if it is tuned as a sub. I outlined your two choices, you really should use one. His enclosures are phenomenal, actually. If you ever tried one you'd know... Not sure who "him" is you are referring to, but there are a ton of buffoons proposing solutions like this. Comment still holds no matter who it is. Math doesn't lie and you can't cheat Physics. Peter W. Kulicki, he's an acoustic engineer as well You should know better than to argue with the self rightous M# So are you argueing that you can indeed construct a box that will share the same attributes as a true horn enclosure within a limited space? I am not arguing ....no point in it I think the design of a horn is intriguing. A folded horn design is even more interesting. Maybe someday in my spare time (lol spare time) I will research it.

Oh yeah, I know there's nothing wrong with a classic style box that is built well. Just kinda window shopping @ different styles to get the most out of a box that is specified for the sub. When I see designs like the one you showed, it makes me wonder though why do they go through all that trouble, if it has no additional benefit then a traditional L shape design Because some moron on the internet keeps proposing that these are workable in car without understanding rudimentary math. There is a huge benefit of a horn loaded enclosure, you just aren't going to fit it in your car if it is tuned as a sub. I outlined your two choices, you really should use one. His enclosures are phenomenal, actually. If you ever tried one you'd know... Not sure who "him" is you are referring to, but there are a ton of buffoons proposing solutions like this. Comment still holds no matter who it is. Math doesn't lie and you can't cheat Physics. Peter W. Kulicki, he's an acoustic engineer as well You should know better than to argue with the self rightous M#

If you have room for a 4^3 or so box pick up an XCON15.

I have General AltiMax HP tires on my 08 Elantra. My size is 205/60-16 92H. Treadwear rating 420 for the HP's in my size. The AltiMax HP is not made in 50 series though but the Exclaim UHP is. With this vehicle I have went through Goodyear and Hancook in 20,xxx miles (8 tires in 40,xxx miles)! As of my last oil change at 64,000 miles my tread depth was still in the 5-6mm range with the Generals. Good wear with the Generals 20,xxx.miles later. Wet road performance is phenomenal! Through (guessing) 0.5-1.0" of water I experienced no hydro planing or steering wheel jerk whatsoever at any speed (<70mph). Serious wet road performer! Snow traction is ok at best. The tread is not cut for serious winter weather diving. I worked at a tire store for a year part time. From my experience there I can tell you Generals and Michelins are top for all season passenger car tires. Toyos #1 for performance and off road. 38" Toyo MT getting +40,000 miles....woowzaa!!!

This is a complicated design. Based on your questions and posts I am guessing this is your first build. Keep it simple. It doesn't take alot of gear to get loud and boom. Build yourself a sealed up trunk setup with two 12's ported. Tune your port in the mid 30's. Quality of the build over quantity of the drivers will always yield great results.

Fuses are designed to open when excessive current is pulled through them. There are a number of reasons that cause this. Here are two 1. Wire failure 2. Eletronic device failure

I wish I had the moneys for 13,000 watts

Huh.... Are Brazil's mobile parties catching on over here? Supertweeters in the works?

Interesting. I would think most people would only run one driver of this size per door let alone 32 of them. Why make them 8 ohm? I know sundownz have tons more insight then I do on this.

Oh, very cool. I love one-off custom parts.

SSA Punisher? Whats up with these?

Pics fosho!