THX_Elite

Ahhh Maann, I'm sorry to hear about the sharp decline in his business practices. I noticed recently as well that he has sharply increased prices. Not good. I have no experience with the products but I do with personal communication with these companies on Facebook: Acoustical Designs Inc. <my favorite. They are very communicative and accommodating...Prices are hard to beat on any box plan you bring to them and shipping is reasonable for sure. and Sound Mekanix Customs

HAHA! YES IT IS! EDIT: still haven't gotten to plug it in yet, though...I just got my North Star AGM and sold my BL 12. I am working on getting all the electrical solid and ready while waiting for my BTL NEO to get here.

Thanks Aaron! and Thank you as well ///M5 for your helpful input! I understand that power supply and maintaining voltage is paramount. In preparation for this (and to see if my upgraded 162amp alt can hang, OR not) I first chose to buy the best AGM31 battery that I could afford for the back of my ride from an audio supplier that has extremely close ties with North Star and is based within 10-20 mins from North Star's manufacturing location in Minnesota! If I find that I still can't keep my voltage up...I will upgrade my alt (again) lol. In any case I'm excited to finally be rid of my little Hifonics amp and to finally own a real amp that is capable of real power. EDIT: it is a competitor whom I talk with who brought up box rise among other things i've never thought about, (I'm just a daily dynamic ground pounder) it's cool though, I like to learn as long as the information is correct!

Thank you! I'm extremely excited myself! I already want to get a 15 and haven't even got the twelve yet, lol. too much money, uuughh

The Fi BTL NEO that I ordered has a 2ohm Re rating of 1.8 so wiring in parallel i should be at .9ish ohms before possible box rise and any damping factors. I bought the AA 3800.1D and just purchased a North Star AGM31 for the back. I know my box is built to spec, tuned at 32hz, braced like a champ and stiff as humanly possible...here is my question/concern... I just want to understand as much as i can without getting overly technical on ohm's and voltage vs impedance and it's variance...As a daily listener I'm just looking more about what power I will be feeding this sub while wired to "1" ohm around 13.5v...I just hope I don't fall into some 3 ohm situation after all is factored in where I would be feeding the 2500rms sub a measly 1k or something like that Ampere Audio's website specs for the AA 3800 1.D specs at 12.8v Power 12.8 VDC – 1 ohm: 3,500W RMS. Power 12.8 VDC – 2 ohm: 1,800W RMS. Power 12.8 VDC – 4 ohm: 900W RMS. SSA's website specs for the AA3800 1.D specs at 14.4v Power 14.4 VDC - 1 ohm: 3,800W RMS Power 14.4 VDC - 2 ohm: 2,000W RMS Power 14.4 VDC - 4 ohm: 750W RMS The main reason I ask is because I will have spent over 2,000 dollars in trying to achieve 1k more RMS and definately more output. And secondly, I want to make sure I get the best performance out of my new upgrades ...Should I forget about all the numbers where as I am only a daily listener and not a competitor? And even more so, can I reasonably expect that I will have a significant increase in output going from a 1500rms Fi BL 12" running on a 1600rms Hifonics amp to a 2500rms Fi BTL NEO runnin on a 3800rms Ampere Audio?

HEY! Welcome to the forum!

NO! Thank You! SSA Store account email address: [email protected] Number of Evil6.5's: 2

That's awesome of you Aaron, I have been a part of the forum for some years now, and as you know have ordered two of these speakers, I have not logged in to my SSA account to see if the credit is there. Either way, credit or not on my account, I think this is just further proof (as if any further proof was needed!) of the outstanding practices, standards and products of SSA AUDIO!!!

I run 2600 watts. I did the big 3 upgrade: 0g wiring, very nice battery under the hood with upgraded 0g power AND grounds to chassis and motor, and a new 163 amp alternator (my stock one was 60amps, lol) and I'm staying very close, if not at 14v at full load. The alternator amperage output is essential!! See what your alternator specs are to determine if you need a new one with more output.

It's important to know that the ZRX (Zues) line of amps are "Max Rated" not "RMS" rated which is very misleading...The BRX (Brutus) line however, IS "RMS" rated. So your ZRX2400.1D will only be around 1200 RMS or LESS. I just upgraded my ZRX1000.4 to a BRX1200.4 a couple weeks ago for this very reason. I bought my 4ch ZRX a long time ago not realizing this fact, and wouldn't want to see anyone make the same mistake So having said this...if anyone wants to run 2400 RMS using Hifonics amps get the BRX2400.1D not the ZRX!! I currently am running the BRX1600.D and am actually upgrading to this exact amp in the near future to give my 1500 watt Fi BL more head room. CHEERS! http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67936_Hifonics-Brutus-BRX2400.1D.html Edit: didn't realize this was such an old thread brought back to life...still though, I believe this to be useful information for those who are looking to Hifonics to power their system.

Just what I'm looking for! I mean, I like my current SB Acoustic mid woofers but I sure would like more than the 60watts rms they provide!

Good point and a little known one! I wanted to add also that while the Zues amps are rated by max wattage the Brutus series amps are, in fact, rated by RMS...but back to topic... Your amp is asking for 4 gauge because its only running around 900 or less watts.

What ever is more cost effective or preferable, its up to you either way will work just fine.