jcarter1885

so my box is not 4.00cu/ft is less than that right? Yeah it is some ft^3 less than 4ft^3, how long is your port and what is the displacement of the subwoofer? Is there any bracing inside the enclosure?

To get rid of the rattling and give the trunk lid a more solid structure I used expanding foam, a cheap option that works. I will be also talking to Don in the future for his products in my trunk but still did the foam option first.

The Level on the amp is the "Gain", the Bass EQ is the "Bass Boost".

I likey the second box , both look great.

That is the measure without the port, subs or bracing displacement if any. Then when you find the volume of your port you subtract it from that number and that will give you the box volume.

I dont see how the box is tuned to high if he said it is tuned to 33Hz. Your amp's settings are set wrong and you are probably clipping it also. Your amp's settings are set wrong and you are probably clipping it also. If your gonna use bass boost you need to make sure you incorporate that into your settings, set your gain with a DMM or O-Scope since by ear is not working for you.

If 24.5" x 19.75" x 18" are your outside dimensions, then your volume before displacement (sub, bracing and port area) is 4.00803ft^3. 23 x 18.25 x 16.5 = 6925.875in^3/1728 = 4.00803 ft^3

Would you happen to know the exact weight? The reason I ask is because I would like to ship a pair of subs over seas. Thanks in advance! Email Scott or Nick @ FI if you want a quicker response and need to know the exact weight.

Testing will tell you which one would be best but usually sub and port firing towards the rear is better.

If you want to cure light dimming options then you need more power to make power and capacitors wont do that since they only store power. Finish the Big 3 and see how that treats you and if you are still having dimming issues then a secondary battery may need to be added to your system.

They are underrated subs but it will also depend on electrical and mostly enclosure. With clean, unclipped power and the right gain settings I dont see why it wouldnt hold up. I would just make sure you tell him to leave most of the settings alone if he doesnt want to waste any of his hard earned money, but more information would help us help you.

, I likey.

I am honestly with you on that one, Crash sucked ass but it showed one good point (that this is a small world which I already knew before I seen the movie).

Have you found your vehicle's resonant frequency yet?

If you want to switch it up and get a 1000 watt amp then I would suggest a SSD, since your already clipping your L7 with 500 watts and will probably do the same thing if you get a Q or BL. An SSD in the right enclosure will sound better and be louder than a L7 usually but will come down to install. Just make sure you dont clip your future setup at all since that is not good for the amp and subwoofer. If your not ready to step up to a bigger install then I do suggest that you build another box for your L7 (what size box is it in and tuning frequency if it is ported)?

Napolean Dynamite is one of the funniest movies ever, yeah no story line whatsoever but a classic in my book. " Your just mad that I sit on the computer and chat with hot chicks all day". You've dropped several notches in my book of respect. If you found any part of that movie funny, it's because you have the IQ of a retarded Chinese pig. You just gave me a new SSA name, thanks. Damn I lost your respect, all man I gotta gain it back. I cant lie Im a goofy individual and stupid humor to me can be hilarious. To me Napoleon Dynamite is > The Date Movie or A Superhero Movie (now those are past horrible movies and I have seen worse just cant think of any).

Nice old school and I dig the paint job a lot.

Napolean Dynamite is one of the funniest movies ever, yeah no story line whatsoever but a classic in my book. " Your just mad that I sit on the computer and chat with hot chicks all day".

Hard to tell best way to know is by all 6 and do some testing but I would go with the SSD's with the cone advantage but it depends.

Comparison threads are useless since most drivers cant be compared due to their goals they were designed around, DC Sound subs are geared more for SPL purposes (not saying they dont have some good sound quality as well) and SSA subs are geared more for SQ purposes (not saying they dont have good SPl or output). Thinking about trying a DCON. - SSA Car Audio Forum - Page 2 The only way to tell how they would compare would be to buy both sets of subs and install to find out, car audio is all about compromise and lots of testing (the only way to find things out in life).

Happy B-day, enjoy man and have a good one