September 10, 201015 yr LoOkin' good. You will know every inch of that car by the time your done.lol. Keep up the Killer work.There will be very little of this car that I don't modify in one way shape or form. These are the type of builds I really enjoy doing. I like being able to put my touch on every aspect of the ride.I can understand, I have that creative draw as well!
September 10, 201015 yr I have not posted on this forum in a while, but props for a killer build, 90s Fleetwoods have a special place in my heart.Very nice job on all the custom work, it came together well!
September 12, 201015 yr Author I have not posted on this forum in a while, but props for a killer build, 90s Fleetwoods have a special place in my heart.Very nice job on all the custom work, it came together well!Thanks. I have loved these Caddys since they first cam out. The last true Caddy if you ask me.More progress.Sanded and prepped for filler.Full skim coat of filler.Now comes the block sanding.
September 15, 201014 yr Author ya i missed a few picture over the weekend! looks good so far!Thanks.Laid down some high build primer tonight, 5 coats so I'm going to let it bake in the sun tomorrow. Then comes..........thats right more block sanding.
September 15, 201014 yr And when you get done sanding, You can go ahead and sand some more. Hehe.Lookin' goOd as usual Brother.
September 24, 201014 yr Author And when you get done sanding, You can go ahead and sand some more. Hehe.Lookin' goOd as usual Brother. Well I'm happy to report that the sanding is over (for now at least). I managed to get it painted today though.Thats going to be it for a while on updates. I won't finish putting it all back together until spring. I got started on building the frame for this car so once I swap the body over then I'll button everything up.Here is a link to that build if anybody is interested.http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=561767I'll post the rest of the build up of the car on here if you guys are interested.
September 25, 201014 yr The dash looks SWAWEEET!!!Now thats what I call a frame up build. Props to you Brother.
September 25, 201014 yr Damn nice job man!!! I wish you were my neighbor. lolThose subs are moving. I bet it's a monster on the lows.
September 25, 201014 yr The dash is like glass!!! The frame mods are serious stuff!! Yes, keep us up to date on whats goin on!!
September 26, 201014 yr Author The dash looks SWAWEEET!!!Now thats what I call a frame up build. Props to you Brother.Chassis work is my favorite stuff. Thanks.Damn nice job man!!! I wish you were my neighbor. lolThose subs are moving. I bet it's a monster on the lows.Man this thing is brutal on the lows. I have done lots of different systems over the years and none of them even come close to the way this plays the lows. I had a 15hz tone playing in the video when it looked like the subs were going to come undone and it didn't even faze the subs.The dash is like glass!!! The frame mods are serious stuff!! Yes, keep us up to date on whats goin on!!It's not flawless but considering it was sprayed in my dirty ass garage I'm pleased with it. Looks like I'll start posting more of the chassis build since there seems to some interest in it.
September 30, 201014 yr The dash looks SWAWEEET!!!Now thats what I call a frame up build. Props to you Brother.Chassis work is my favorite stuff. Thanks.Damn nice job man!!! I wish you were my neighbor. lolThose subs are moving. I bet it's a monster on the lows.Man this thing is brutal on the lows. I have done lots of different systems over the years and none of them even come close to the way this plays the lows. I had a 15hz tone playing in the video when it looked like the subs were going to come undone and it didn't even faze the subs.The dash is like glass!!! The frame mods are serious stuff!! Yes, keep us up to date on whats goin on!!It's not flawless but considering it was sprayed in my dirty ass garage I'm pleased with it. Looks like I'll start posting more of the chassis build since there seems to some interest in it.DO IT!!! FTW!!!
October 26, 201014 yr Author Sorry I've been slacking on the chassis pics guys. I forgot about this thread.This chassis is going to get the works. Pinched belly, custom A arms, one off rear suspension, one off 9" rearend w/ disc brakes, spindle swap....It will be a slow start but should pick up speed soon.I started by making a complete chassis jig to locate and hold all body mount locations.Here is a few of the parts for the jig.This sits in the body mount hole.Like this.Then gets another washer on top that sandwiches the frame down to the jig post.All the posts are bolted to the table but I still need to tie them together from one side to the other with more tubing.Almost finished with the jig. I made the cross supports today and welded them in.Notching the tube.Test fitting.All welded in.Every upright and cross bar was checked for square and level to insure the jig is accurate.This is what the level reads as it sits in the previous pic.Stared on pinching the belly today.I added a couple legs and crossbrace to keep the front frame horns from tipping or pulling.Then I laid out my cut line and started cutting.Crossmember removed.Ready for some modifications.As for the cutting of the crossmember it's the only way to know whats moving and how much it moves.This is why I cut it out.I can find center and mark it, pie cut the bottom the desired amount, and seperate it in the center. This prevents having to use a ram or clamp to bend it together. I can tack it together check all my dimensions and then weld it up.I use the chassis table and set final dimensions to insure everything is square.I used these bolts and a level to make sure the lower A arm mounts are level.Also made sure the upper ears were all touching the table to make sure it wasn't twisted.Crossmember is back in. I did corner to corner measurements from the upper A arm bolts to the front body mount jig bolt to get it centered in the frame.I used the threaded rod again to set level on the lower A arm pivot points.Rear pivot points.
October 26, 201014 yr Author Had to section/pinch the frame rails to get the edges to line back up.Here some pics of the batery racks that I started on while doing the sound system since the batteries and amps for that will share the rack with the set up.It all starts with a pile of steel.I used 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 3/16" tube for the sub frame and 2" X 2" X 1/8" angle for the battery trays.I like to do my corners like this. Makes them strong and easy to polish the welds smooth.One tray bottom done.I also bevell the edge of the tube for the same reasons.Bottom side.Trays bolt to the subframe.Added some battery tie down points and made so tabs for mounting the breakers for the amps.This doubles as the audio battery tie down and amp rack. Used 1" X 2" X 1/8" tube and 2" X 2" X 3/16" angle.Doing some test fitting. The MDF is there to set the gap the rack will need.I still need to do the tie downs, pump mount, and solenoid mountsGot started with cutting the rear crossmember out. I won't be needing any of that wack stock crap.I spent a couple hours laying out my reference marks and taking notes of measurements for later use before I cut it all out.Then I started to shave the frame down to smooth the lines out for a cleaner look. Removed the circle piece that was raised up.Then the lower T/A mount was next on the chopping block.Here is the results.Before. After.I will weld an 1/8" plate in the hole where the T/A mount was before plating the frame to insure there is no weak spot there. These couple mods will make a big difference in how the frame will look after plating it.I also pulled out all the suspension joints and new rearend housing to start formulating a plan for the new lay out.It will be getting a Fab 9 housing that was purchased from Ballistic Fabrication. The center section is formed from 1/4" plate and the axle tubes are 3 1/2" dia. 1/4" wall(actually looks closer to 5/16") DOM. Like I said, I'm raising the bar with this build.Using all Ballistic Fabrication suspension joints. I'll be using their poly mounts for the custom engine and trans mounts as well.This should give you an idea of how strong these things are. They have a 1 1/4" shank on the threaded joints. They are also rebuildable and can be adjusted for wear of the race if needed.All the rear suspension links will be made from thick walled DOM tube. I'm still debating the size though.
October 26, 201014 yr Author Getting the ears jigged for removal.Removed.I also section the crossmember and flattened the top out some to gain clearance for the oil pan.Pinched, welded, and polished. Pulled the frame off the table to flip it over to finish welding the crossmember back together.Then I turned my attention to removing some more ugly shit from the frame.Not running a sway bar so theres no need for this ugly hump here.Did the same thing on the other side.I'll box them in with 1/8" before doing the full plating.Next on the chopping block were the side frame rails. I'm using a press broke piece of 3/16" down the sides and don't want it hanging down 3" under the rocker. These frames have a raised section that runs on an angle which would cause the frame to look lower up front.Front edge.Rear edge.So I cut it down to make it even front to rear and also removed the lip the trans crossmember sits on. This what will go back on. I even drew it out for those that don't understand whats going on.Details, details, details. This thing will be smoother than Bill D. Williams when I'm done. Trimmed the other side frame rail down.Then removed the steering stabilizer bracket since it's not going back on.Did chop some more ugly off the other day.I still didn't like the shape even after cutting the sway bar mount off. So I took another cut out to straighten the lines out more.
October 26, 201014 yr Damn, that is some serious frame work right there! I'll be watching the progress.
October 26, 201014 yr how cow you have been pretty busy lately!! looks very cool! and i can see why you do this to your own car it would cost some one a fortune for someone else to do all this work to your car! wow! hell i never though you had to get this in-depth this is very cool to see come together step by stepthanks for posting this up! you rock!
October 26, 201014 yr Great build. I lol when I saw these.The last time I saw joints this big was at the monster truck show.I cant imagine you using these in a Caddy.
October 26, 201014 yr Author Damn, that is some serious frame work right there! I'll be watching the progress.Everything about this ride is going to be serious. This will be my best work so far.how cow you have been pretty busy lately!! looks very cool! and i can see why you do this to your own car it would cost some one a fortune for someone else to do all this work to your car! wow! hell i never though you had to get this in-depth this is very cool to see come together step by stepthanks for posting this up! you rock!This will be far beyond your average lowrider, not every car needs this much done to it.Great build. I lol when I saw these.The last time I saw joints this big was at the monster truck show.I cant imagine you using these in a Caddy. Well this thing will weigh in at around 6,500lbs with over 1000lbs of gear in the trunk alone so better safe than sorry. Edited October 26, 201014 yr by outhopu
October 27, 201014 yr i c! all very cool! how many hours do you say you have in this build already? and on average how many hours to do a NORMAL low rider build?
October 28, 201014 yr Author i c! all very cool! how many hours do you say you have in this build already? and on average how many hours to do a NORMAL low rider build?Counting the audio build I already have hundreds of hours just to get it to this point. By the end it will be 2000+ hours easily. Most guys that build these cars are hacks and they pump them out pretty quick but they don't last when built that way. I can get a car lifted with a small set up that will lift and lower the car in a few weekends.
November 1, 201014 yr Loving the frame work!!! You are a master of the steal. Them are some GIANT Johnny joints, FTW.
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