So I couldnt pass up the deal on the SA line on here and purchased an SA-12 last night. Now it needs an amp. The car has a small alt, 70 amps. I want to keep it all under 1000rms. I will be running a 2 channel that makes 140rms total so I'm looking to give the sub anywhere from 500-750rms at 2 ohms. 600 would be ideal for me. My budget is 220 with shipping.

What would you suggest? So far all I can think of is either an MB quart onx 1000.1D, a kicker ZX500.1 or a DX1000.1 (makes 50rms more than the ZX)

This is in a different context, but I previously stated this:

Alright, we'll do a little math here

Say we have a consistent amount of current (amperage) draw at 100 amps and lets Say you were running at 13v.

So to find wattage we multiply Volts*Amps

13v*100a= 1300w * .80 (for a Class D amplifier efficiency rating) which would come out to 1040w.

So on the opposite side lets say you drop down to 12v

12v*100a=1200w * .80 = 960w

In order to gain a noticable increase in output you need to gain at least 3dB. 3dB is the smallest a human can notice a change in output.

and in order to gain the 3dB threshold you must in theory double your wattage.. so is that tiny amount of extra wattage going to matter in a daily driving scenario?

The short answer is no, it would not matter what-so-ever.

SO pick an amplifier that fits your budget, is aesthetically pleasing, and is in your power range.

Granted what I've said isn't 100% perfect, but I hope you get the general idea behind it all.

Hifonics, Audiopipe, Crunch, etc would all fit in your budget.

BUT there are many more out there.

This is in a different context, but I previously stated this:

Alright, we'll do a little math here

Say we have a consistent amount of current (amperage) draw at 100 amps and lets Say you were running at 13v.

So to find wattage we multiply Volts*Amps

13v*100a= 1300w * .80 (for a Class D amplifier efficiency rating) which would come out to 1040w.

So on the opposite side lets say you drop down to 12v

12v*100a=1200w * .80 = 960w

In order to gain a noticable increase in output you need to gain at least 3dB. 3dB is the smallest a human can notice a change in output.

and in order to gain the 3dB threshold you must in theory double your wattage.. so is that tiny amount of extra wattage going to matter in a daily driving scenario?

The short answer is no, it would not matter what-so-ever.

SO pick an amplifier that fits your budget, is aesthetically pleasing, and is in your power range.

Granted what I've said isn't 100% perfect, but I hope you get the general idea behind it all.

Hifonics, Audiopipe, Crunch, etc would all fit in your budget.

BUT there are many more out there.

haha I literally heard all 3 of those were horrible so I avoided looking at them. I need something that will be good for daily use, not get insane hot or break after a week. I dont really push my system though, basically showing off to friends for a few minutes or listening at normal levels all day.

just 1, d4 sub right?

for the price on ebay, you can get the mb quart 1.1500d for about the same as a 1000.

same goes for the audiopipe (ap 1000, 1500)

if it was me, get the one rated higher and turn it down a bit. also this option gives you room to add a 2nd sub later on, wire @ 1ohm (compared to the kicker zx, which cant run 1ohm).

i think a kicker amp would be better quality. a zx500.1 @ 2ohm vesus either mb quart amp would be just as loud to the ear. but you cant expand later on i you want more power or if you want to run a 2nd sub,

really not much of a difference with whatever you pick. you could save up for something better if your worried about quality. its not likely that any of these amps would disappoint you considering the price. buying used is also an option.

my vote would be the mb quart 1500. and make sure to do the big 3!

assuming the amp isn't defective, the only way your going to break them is low voltage. like i said, do the big 3 and get a volt meter. this isn't fool proof but its the minimum you should do.

Thanks! I think I'll basically between the kicker or the MB quart. I dont plan to upgrade in the future.

BTW, I'm still pretty new to car audio and dont exactly understand gains in terms of RMS. I hope I type this question right, so if someone can answer it I'd rly appreciate it.

Lets say I have two amps. One that makes 500rms at 2 ohms and one that makes 800rms at 2 ohms.

If I set the gains lower on the 800rms amp, is there a way to technically get 500rms out of it by setting the gains lower? I know with the 500 rms amp, if I set the gains right I'll have the power I need. But with the 800rms amp, I'm worried about pusing to much power and causing my voltage to drop, so I want less power. Will setting my gains lower on the 800rms amp help with that or will it have no effect on how much power I'm actually getting. By that I mean, I'll be running 800 rms either way.

Thanks! I think I'll basically between the kicker or the MB quart. I dont plan to upgrade in the future.

BTW, I'm still pretty new to car audio and dont exactly understand gains in terms of RMS. I hope I type this question right, so if someone can answer it I'd rly appreciate it.

Lets say I have two amps. One that makes 500rms at 2 ohms and one that makes 800rms at 2 ohms.

If I set the gains lower on the 800rms amp, is there a way to technically get 500rms out of it by setting the gains lower? I know with the 500 rms amp, if I set the gains right I'll have the power I need. But with the 800rms amp, I'm worried about pusing to much power and causing my voltage to drop, so I want less power. Will setting my gains lower on the 800rms amp help with that or will it have no effect on how much power I'm actually getting. By that I mean, I'll be running 800 rms either way.

http://bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm

essentially, if you lower the gain on the 800 rms amp, it will produce the same average power as the 500 rms amp. try reading the article, its a bit more complicated then you think.

on the other hand your over thinking things. setting your gain isn't an exact science or anything. set the gain to give you the output you desire, without causing excessive voltage drop (there will always be some drop), and without sending an audibly distorted signal to the sub (if you can hear distortion, turn it down).

the amount of drop will vary with the music your listening to. not all music is recorded at the same level. you have control of the volume knob so when you see it the voltage dropping, turn it down.

btw, this really isnt enough power to cause massive voltage drop (unless your car electrical suckkks), you might have some dimming but if you do the big 3 you should be fine. i doubt that mb quarts amp puts out more power then the kicker to begin with.

here is another option, new alpine mrp 500, 500 rms @ 2 ohm. my friend beat the fuck out of his, @ 1ohm which it isnt rated for, for a year or 2, before it gave up the ghost.

you can find them for 150 or so but i without a warranty, if that matters.

if you pick the alpine or kicker all you need is:

-4 gauge kit (or buy power wire/ inline fuse separate)

-distro blocks to wire up other amp

-some 8 gauge power wire to hook up amps

-voltage meter if you worried about it

-extra 4 gauge or 0 gauge to do big three

-rca's

this cadence wire performed well in a test performed by a forum member recently.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Installation-Products-/32806/i.html?_nkw=cadence&_catref=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m1538

- used the 8 gauge myself, and its pretty decent quality.

Audiopipe isn't that bad for the price and I haven't had any bad experience with them.

I've personally ran two audiopipe amps and they're great. Not the prettiest amps around but strong with a small footprint.

If it matters, when I switched from my Rockford P500-2 (Class AB, ~700 watts) to my Audiopipe AQX-1800d (Class D, ~1800 watts) and couldnt tell a difference in the quality of sound. The Audiopipe was only louder. (In case sound is what you were worried about. The woofers and the box determine how it will sound, not the amp, unless the amp is distorting.)

Edited October 24, 201113 yr by An-i-no

Soundstream stealth can work.

If you have the extra $50 I'd HIGHLY recommend this amp.

http://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html

Does 900 pretty much at 2ohm, and can run down to 1ohm if you ever do decide to upgrade.

If you have the extra $50 I'd HIGHLY recommend this amp.

http://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html

Does 900 pretty much at 2ohm, and can run down to 1ohm if you ever do decide to upgrade.

x^2

haha I literally heard all 3 of those were horrible so I avoided looking at them. I need something that will be good for daily use, not get insane hot or break after a week. I dont really push my system though, basically showing off to friends for a few minutes or listening at normal levels all day.

Just a heads up Hifonics, Crunch, MB Quart, Autotec are all owned by the same company - Maxxsonics.

Personally owned a Hifonics amp and it worked fine for the year or so that I used it, then sold it. Never really had any complaints about it.

i have a brutus 1200w i do the same think slight show offs to friends and people. iv had no problems at all with it shutting off or getting hot (it will get kinda hot but only on long interstate rides when i do a little more then normal local driving).

haha I literally heard all 3 of those were horrible so I avoided looking at them. I need something that will be good for daily use, not get insane hot or break after a week. I dont really push my system though, basically showing off to friends for a few minutes or listening at normal levels all day.

ya whoever told you that is a idiot... i have 2 hifonics amps at the moment and i love them...even though im selling them to upgrade to a bigger amp i would still suggest hifonics to people...

just make sure to get the hifonics brutus amps... not the hfi series

If you have the extra $50 I'd HIGHLY recommend this amp.

http://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html

Does 900 pretty much at 2ohm, and can run down to 1ohm if you ever do decide to upgrade.

For 300$ you can get the crescendo BC2000 and thats a hell of a amp!!!

I have an audiopipe 1500 (AP 1500d) and its been strong for well over a year. Friend of mine has had his for at least 2 years. No problems from those particular audiopipe amps with me.

$300 for the bc2000?? Lol they quoted me $340 who's your hookup? Lol. Sorry to thread jack

I have an audiopipe 1500 (AP 1500d) and its been strong for well over a year. Friend of mine has had his for at least 2 years. No problems from those particular audiopipe amps with me.

$300 for the bc2000?? Lol they quoted me $340 who's your hookup? Lol. Sorry to thread jack

Amps were $300 when they first came out but Navid raised the price on the amps after the first production/pre-sale run.