I just bought the 30 hz filters. I do hear distortion sometimes and im sure it will clear up the problems im having.  I hear a light knocking sometimes at higher volumes but the cone isnt moving any where near xmech (maybe 1-1.5 in)  I hope its not bottoming out. sometimes it has way more travel but doesnt make that noise so im not sure what the deal is.  Some professional insight might help

well those 30 hz may work only if your  box is tuned around 30 hz,

 

  this will help reduce the power  given to the amps below 30s hz  preventing unloading   it will not solve distortion. that is another issue .. too much power maybe.

Well i guess having 30 hz filters is better than nothing. Yes the sub most likely is getting too much power. the JX 1000/1 has a pretty good reputation for a lot of output.    

 

What is unloading?

unloading is an issue cause by playing below the tuning of the enlosure it can cause subs to fail  mechanicly

Well i guess having 30 hz filters is better than nothing. Yes the sub most likely is getting too much power. the JX 1000/1 has a pretty good reputation for a lot of output.    

Use the gain knob.

heres a indepth read if your into it

 

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_5_2/cmilleressayporting.html

Could all this tuning be avoided if i use a sealed enclosure?  BTW thanks for the article it was very informative    What are the chances that i already damaged my sub?

(I was using it pretty hard but i didnt hear any crazy distortion) I did get a little VC smell  nothing crazy but its a small cab and the port is right behind my seat and its a new sub.

Edited May 6, 201312 yr by Trent Hari

Could all this tuning be avoided if i use a sealed enclosure?  BTW thanks for the article it was very informative    What are the chances that i already damaged my sub?

(I was using it pretty hard but i didnt hear any crazy distortion) I did get a little VC smell  nothing crazy but its a small cab and the port is right behind my seat and its a new sub.

With sealed its a bit harder for a sub to fail mechanically, but thermally the sub will fail at the same power level from what I understand.

If your sub sounds fine, then don't worry about it. Obviously I wouldn't turn it up till it starts smelling, find that sweet spot right before.

Alright ill keep that in mind. The last thing i want to do is blow another sub. i bought it from ssa which is on the opposite side of the continent from me so any service is going to be slow lol. I hear people running 1200rms+ to these sa-12's so i am hoping it is durable enough if i am smart about it.

Re read the last 6 words  I'm trying to be smart about it.  

If not then ill be buyin a true 1000 watt sub maybe a RE SXX  (Pretty hard to find an american made one,SSA has a 750 rms sub (GCON) and a 1250 rms sub (ICON) but no 1000) I want something i can just blast and not worry about (somethin about getting a back massage to the beat of music haha)

i ran a sine wave to my sa-12 and at about maybe 30-40 hz it was hitting so hard i had a hard time breathing (AWESOME!) and no distortion. (it is probably VERY peaky in a 1cu ported box but it still sounds good to my untrained ear)

I'm saving up for a custom box that will do my sub justice.

Alright ill keep that in mind. The last thing i want to do is blow another sub. i bought it from ssa which is on the opposite side of the continent from me so any service is going to be slow lol. I hear people running 1200rms+ to these sa-12's so i am hoping it is durable enough if i am smart about it.

Re read the last 6 words  I'm trying to be smart about it.  

If not then ill be buyin a true 1000 watt sub maybe a RE SXX  (Pretty hard to find an american made one,SSA has a 750 rms sub (GCON) and a 1250 rms sub (ICON) but no 1000) I want something i can just blast and not worry about (somethin about getting a back massage to the beat of music haha)

i ran a sine wave to my sa-12 and at about maybe 30-40 hz it was hitting so hard i had a hard time breathing (AWESOME!) and no distortion. (it is probably VERY peaky in a 1cu ported box but it still sounds good to my untrained ear)

I'm saving up for a custom box that will do my sub justice.

RE is trash, and you will never have a problem running less than RMS to a sub. The enclosure is the most important part so definitely save up and get a nice one.

There is no su

Alright ill keep that in mind. The last thing i want to do is blow another sub. i bought it from ssa which is on the opposite side of the continent from me so any service is going to be slow lol. I hear people running 1200rms+ to these sa-12's so i am hoping it is durable enough if i am smart about it.

Re read the last 6 words  I'm trying to be smart about it.  

If not then ill be buyin a true 1000 watt sub maybe a RE SXX  (Pretty hard to find an american made one,SSA has a 750 rms sub (GCON) and a 1250 rms sub (ICON) but no 1000) I want something i can just blast and not worry about (somethin about getting a back massage to the beat of music haha)

i ran a sine wave to my sa-12 and at about maybe 30-40 hz it was hitting so hard i had a hard time breathing (AWESOME!) and no distortion. (it is probably VERY peaky in a 1cu ported box but it still sounds good to my untrained ear)

I'm saving up for a custom box that will do my sub justice.

there is no such thing as a sub you can just "blast" and not worry about it

I'd say he should get an icon just so he has that little bit of overhead, then basically all he has to do is not clip the amp. I'm sure the icon would get loud on 1000w. Probably sound nicer then the sundown 12 too..

I'll probably be getting a perfect sized sub for my setup when I am rich someday ;-)  what is the best 1000 RMS sub out of all the brands that would work "the best" in a smaller ported enclosure (1.5-2 cubes) tuned to around 30 hz preferably American made and under $350 , preferably around $200-250    

Edited May 6, 201312 yr by Trent Hari

I'll probably be getting a perfect sized sub for my setup when I am rich someday ;-)  what is the best 1000 RMS sub out of all the brands that would work "the best" in a smaller ported enclosure (1.5-2 cubes) tuned to around 30 hz preferably American made and under $350 , preferably around $200-250    

http://store.ficaraudio.com/x12/

 

Fi audio x12.. then get the cooling plug, and it should be around 1000rms if I remember right. Its american made, around 200$, and takes a 1.8-2.5 ported.

little big for the box, but if you can squeeze it in that's the way to go in my opinion.

I looked at that fi 12. It looks good. I don't think this SA-12 is going to last on 1000 watts from the heat it produces after a few minutes... I dont know what people are doing to get the crazy power handling from this sub but i don't think im doing it.  

Does anyone think that putting the 30 Hz subsonic filter on it will reduce the likelihood of this sub overheating?

 

BTW i was getting awesome excursion from it like 2.5 in of travel with just that light knocking noise it makes whenever i turn it up a little. its really annoying and im not sure what it is.. the sub never appears to bottom out but it definitely comes from the sub or enclosure and still makes that sound if i plug the areoport to stimulate a 'sealed" enclosure. any help on what causes that noise would be appreciated

Bump

Fix your setup before doing anything.

Fix your setup before doing anything.

"fix my setup" Do you mean get a good enclosure?  

 

Sorry if im asking too many questions i'm just tryin to learn more so i dont sound like a noob  (i do look through the forums a lot too)

 

The sound seems to have diminished finally. it might be a rattle from my truck though. I do have 14 square feet of dynamat extreme and hushmat in it though. 

I got the 30 hz filter in.. I'm not sure i f I like the results. some of the deep bass is diminished. it probably helps the sub tho. if i put only one filter on, does it still work or do both RCA's need them?

I noticed something. if i unplug one Rca end, the sub still plays , just with reduced output. How does that even work?

I'll probably be getting a perfect sized sub for my setup when I am rich someday ;-)  what is the best 1000 RMS sub out of all the brands that would work "the best" in a smaller ported enclosure (1.5-2 cubes) tuned to around 30 hz preferably American made and under $350 , preferably around $200-250    

http://store.ficaraudio.com/x12/

 

Fi audio x12.. then get the cooling plug, and it should be around 1000rms if I remember right. Its american made, around 200$, and takes a 1.8-2.5 ported.

little big for the box, but if you can squeeze it in that's the way to go in my opinion.

How does that FI -12 sub compare to a Death Penalty sub for SPL or SQL? I noticed that the Death penalty has slightly more xmax and a little better sensitivity. Its more expensive but is the death penalty significantly better? The reason i ask is it would be nice to buy from SSA again. I also hear "horror stories" of FI subs being damaged in shipping.

bumpidy bump bump   I'm talking about in a smaller enclosure 1-2 cubes sealed or ported

Edited May 10, 201312 yr by Trent Hari

Why spend for a DP? You could always run a Death Row. 1000RMS.

oops yeah i meant death row. my bad i got the names mixed up. 

So how would a Death Row compare to a Fi x12  in a 1-2 cube ported or sealed enclosure at 1000 rms?

For SQ and SPL of course

Edited May 12, 201312 yr by Trent Hari

oops yeah i meant death row. my bad i got the names mixed up. 

So how would a Death Row compare to a Fi x12  in a 1-2 cube ported or sealed enclosure at 1000 rms?

go for the death row 12, gives you a little more room then the Fi x 12. Also depending on the roll off on the 30hz crossover when close to 30hz above and below its going to lessen those frequencies also.

FI is an amazing company. I would not let shipping stories scare me away from a great product. My BL arrived in perfect condition.

Is the Death Row sub good for sq and spl (or just sq or just spl) ? I really want to be sure its optimal before i drop $320 on a sub.

 

I'm also thinking about a PRS-80 to replace my Kenwood KDC 896. Its a very good quality deck, but there's not many audio adjustments and the interface is hard to use while driving. Would the PRS-80 be a considerable upgrade from a SQ and ease of use standpoint? Sorry if this should be on another thread, I just don't feel like filling up the forums with unnecessary threads.

 

Feel free to tell me if im pissing someone off by asking too many questions, That's why im here, to get questions answered by people who know their stuff, not some car-toys idiot trying to sell me the store. Honestly out west here (Salem,OR)  there's not any stores like SSA that sell american products that I know of (besides ridiculously priced JL Audio) , and even less people that actually know what their talking about. Heck, when i mention a kinda common brand such as Sundown Audio in any store (oops) all i get is a blank stare, or "never heard of it"