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Found 14 results

  1. altoncustomtech

    Alton's 2010 Chevy Traverse build log

    Okay, we were finally able to get the vehicle that will be replacing the van as our daily driver. I found a nice 2010 Traverse AWD with everything the wife wanted in it and a little more with decent miles on it and I even got a decent deal on it. Now, the wife realized before we even got serious about shopping for one that we should probably tone down the size of the install in the new vehicle. While she was/is still wanting some good sounding speakers and some bump going to the the size and extent of the build in the van was more than we need for this one. One of the biggest reasons for that was simply because of the damage the Q's caused the van. Before I installed them it was QUIET, not one interior panel rattled or made noise, not hardly a hint of sheet metal rattling could be heard. At this point now not only is there a great deal of noise coming from the interior panels (particularly in the rear) but the Q's even managed to tear a spot welded seam in the floor of the van loose. We simply don't want to repeat that in the new one. For this build we're looking at something smaller, possibly along the lines of a pair of 10's if the space is right, single 12, etc. Something like the DCON, GCON or ICON come to mind, SSD's, possibly even IA or something else I've not got a chance to try yet as well. We'll be running 1,000 to 1,500 watts on the subs and no more than that at all. What goes in will depend completely upon the space available and which sub choice will work best with that space. I'm going to try to keep the rear of the vehicle as usable as possible so I'm probably going to be building an enclosure with the subs firing downward and the port to the side. The enclosure will likely consume all the space available on the width and depth behind the 3rd row seat and my limiting factor will be that we're trying to keep the enclosure height to about half the total height of the 3rd row seat. The wife wants another Kenwood HU so we'll likely be ordering a DDX491HD and a Maestro RR integration unit this weekend for the source and to keep all the factory wheel functions and such. I'm looking to use a PPI P900.4 for the highs and a similarly sized subwoofer amp to run the subs and those will be tucked away in the storage compartment under the floor in the rear with added ventilation if necessary. That brings me to my biggest frustration with this build, lol. Before we got serious about shopping for a vehicle the wife was COMPLETELY on board for me doing whatever was necessary to install the Bravox 603's. Fiberglassed custom door panels were in the plans for whatever that vehicle was going to be, uh, well, right up until we picked up the Travy. Now it's, "You aren't really going to cut it up and put holes in the doors are you?" and "There's already places for tweeters, you can just use those right?" then finally "You can just use the factory places for now, I want it to have a good sounding stereo but not know it until you hear it, as in can't see nothin'." So, there goes anything remotely close to what I was wanting to do. I thought if the Bravox's wouldn't work out I might do a dedicated full range/midbass setup, or maybe even the equivalent of the Arc Audio Black 6.2 speakers in the SB Acoustic's mid and tweeter that Arc is using, or something really and truly worth a damn to do. Nope. She gave me a pretty much open budget for speakers but I don't see the point in spending any kind of good money on a set of components that cannot be optimally installed. So I'm not completely sure where I'm going to go with the highs. I have found a hell of a deal (<$250)on a new set of Kicker QS65.2 components which I'm leaning toward but I have to verify if there's any possibility of getting that tweeter behind the A pillar. I've also looked at the MB Quart QC216 set which has a nice looking large format tweeter but since Maxxsonics has their nasty hands in MBQ now I'm kind of shying away from them as well. As soon as I can figure out what the hell to do (still need to verify some measurements) I'll pull the trigger on equipment and get it coming. Although the Travy is pretty quiet from the factory I'm still going to be ordering some SDS to treat the doors and all of the rear to start with. I'll work on the floor and roof after we've had it a little while. It has the sun roofs so I'm not in a real hurry to tear all that interior off the roof, nor am I in a hurry to figure out how to tear all the seats, center console, and carpeting out to treat those areas just yet. I also have to pull the door panels off to see what kind of baffles I'll need to construct for it. Luckily with the lower power I'm looking at running and the 170A factory alternator I shouldn't be looking at having to do anything too major on the electrical side of things. Probably just the BIG 3 in 1/0 with Knu Kolossus. So, that's the, um, kind of the plan, for what little plan there is. The more I can verify as far as fit in this thing the better the direction for what/where it will go is going to look. I hope to have all that figured out and to be ordering equipment and supplies this weekend. Here's a quick shot of the Travy. I just grabbed it to show to a co-worker. Any input is welcome, especially from anyone who's done some install work in one of these as the entire Lambda platform is completely new to me.
  2. Starting to get this build under way. Very simple as it is my wife's car and she uses the trunk for her business. I am adding 2 DCON 10" subs to her factory JBL green edge system. The box is going to be straight foward sealed and small so it can be moved and removed when needed.
  3. I am thinking about building a T-line for my 3 SSA DCON 12's. Has anybody here tried it or have any experience with T-lines? If anybody wants to give a shot at helping with the design it would be great. Before you comment that "The box will be huge!" , yes I know. Thanks.
  4. I was on the forums awhile ago and got some great help designing a box from a member (can't remember who). Just wanted to show what he helped me do. I have 3 SSA DCON 12's in a 1999 Chevy Tahoe. I just metered on a TermLab and the results were great. I have had this system in for over a year and this is the first time I have had it metered. Thanks again for the help from the build... http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg506/eddielong1975/376572_532111330147364_1694144002_n_zpsfdfeacd5.jpg http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg506/eddielong1975/218079_532113020147195_1480755921_n_zps062b6a97.jpg http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg506/eddielong1975/DSCF1556_zpsc40ae279.jpg http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg506/eddielong1975/DSCF1555_zps13de709b.jpg http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg506/eddielong1975/DSCF1552_zpsae1bfbf1.jpg TermLab results http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg506/eddielong1975/20140403_182653_zps901abed9.jpg From the port http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg506/eddielong1975/20140403_191109_zpse462b10c.jpg
  5. Up for sale is a used when I bought it single 4 ohm 15" SSA DCON sub. It's in great condition showing the usual signs of having been mounted before. I bought this from Sean (W140) awhile back with no real intentions except that it was a good price at the time. I'm getting nickeled and dimed to death at the moment so I need it sold. $120 shipped to anywhere in the CONUS.
  6. Hello! I have a 2000 Camaro with a thunderform 10" sub box (http://thunderforms...._2002/show.html). I was about to get some crappy pioneers but then I came across SSA and am considering the DCON, Skar VVX, maybe a GCON, or something one of you might recommend. My concern is that because the box is so limited (.6 ft3 sealed) if these subs will still sound any good, because I understand that they are engineered to be tuned and be in the right box. I'd be getting a new amp to btw, i'm thinking the Audiopipe APSM-1500. Let me know if you recommend a sub or if you think one of these wouldn't be a good choice for me. Any feedback would really help!
  7. SacredTanakh

    Sacred's 1979 Bronco SSA Build

    Well my initial build at the moment is relatively complete, but of course I have future plans. Therefore Ill just post some pictures and you can comment and ask questions about the build if you wish. Ill add more pictures when I get back home, next week. Im thinking of doing fiberglass doors with an 8" mid, 6.5" mid, and a supertweet. Then add two more dcons, maybe ported maybe sealed, not sure.. If that doesnt do it for me, Im thinking SSA Icon 18s.
  8. I ordered 3 SSA dcon 12's that should be here soon. I am putting the subs in a t-line box and I am wondering if there is a particular break in for the subs. With all of my other subs, I have just kept the volume low for about a week and then crank it up. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
  9. Hello all. I am new here as you can tell. I am almost done with my first actual build. I am waiting on the subs. I just ordered 3 DCON 12's and I will be putting them in a t-line box that I am building and I also designed. The rest of my system and electrical is already done
  10. hairyunicorn

    6 SSA DCON 15's Walled/92 Chevy

    This is my truck with 6 SSA DCON 15's running on a crescendo BC3500
  11. i9z4real@yahoo.com

    WTB: two 12" or 15" DCON D4

    Looking to buy either two 12 inch or 15 inch DCON D4's whether in enclosure or not
  12. i9z4real@yahoo.com

    How would 4 12 inch Dcons sound

    Running off 500wattsx2 bridged @ 4ohms rear channels of a crescendo1000c4. All stock electrical system 1999 volkswagen passat (I might get the big 3 upgrade if necessary). Would these subs have trouble reaching their potentional with only 500 watts split between them?
  13. errydayswag


    Just received my 2 DCON's the other day, and couldn't help but notice the MASSIVE magnets on them, which leads me to wonder... Call me an idiot, but how does such a gigantic magnet (and all of the other high end parts used) only ammount to 300 watts RMS?? I see many other subs with SMALLER magnets (RF P3) that handle MUCH more power...?