General Audio

Over the past 18 years I have had countless audio systems. Most of them consisted of two 12" or two 15" and 500-1500w. There is one particular system that a neighbor had that I will never forget. He had a simple system, two Orion XTR 12" with a small cheap Kenwood 500w amp. His car was a three door, possibly it was a Gulf idk. Why I remember this system is because when the bass hits and when I/he was talking it sounded like we were talking through a fan. I have never been able to duplicate this effect. No matter how many subs or watts I had. Actually, I havent even sat in too many other cars that could either. What causes your voice to sound like you are talking through…

is 1 ohm louder then anything else? i was told this by a kid at school. if you need any other info let me know, im at a loss as to what else to say. haha. newb i know...

This is what I have - Clarion DVD head unit with a 7 inch flip out monitor , 2x Kicker CVX 12 inch Dual 4 ohm (750rms) each wired to 1 ohm in a sealed box , Orion 2400D mono channel amp wired @ 1200 watts rms 1 ohm , Memphis M-class 4 channel 75 rms x 4 , Memphis 6x9 in the rear 85 rms each , Eclipse 5.25 inch 3 way components in the front . Optima red top under the hood , Optima yellow top in the trunk , and a Kinetics cap-killer equivelent to 100 1:farad caps . My Qeustion is - How do you determine what frequency to set the mono amp up to for my subs to perform there best ? I can set it anywhere from 20 hz and up .

I'm not gonna try and go deep into this as this topic would then get boring. But on a general level- SSD with copper coil and BP vs ICON Both comparing 10s here being delivered 1100w. I like it loud loud but as u can see i am comparing using copper coil so some nice transient response needs to be there as well. I read about the flatwound but do not think i want it. On a general level, is this a win win situation? Both bout the same regardless?

What should i get, where, and why?

If you want the loudest possible enclosure for your subs do you want more enclosure volume or more port area? What are the positives and negatives of more port area or less.

Yes!!!! They have super tweeters coming soon as well. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=223198&locale=en_US&p_status=

was thinking of doing 1 fi btl 15 are 18 are just doing the single 12 btl are sticking to the 2 ssd 12s i have somone that wants to buy the 12 ssd off of me so throwing out more ideas.

So i have a friend that shows me Prefab bandpass boxes and i keep telling him not to waist his money and build it himself or find someone who knows what they are doing (he only has 2 p2s i think at the moment). I don't know much about Rockford subs or what the box specs are let alone for 4 of them. He also doesn't get what i mean by prefabs being cheap and not having the right tune. He think i mean tuning his head unit or amp. So basically what is the proper tune for a ported box for four P3D4-12s so i can tell him to find someone and just tell them you want a ported box tuned to -blank- for four p3's to fit what ever his trunk size is. I know it sounds kind of stupid to …

i just turned my dvc 4ohm 15" obsidians down to 1 ohm would i have to change my amp settings. and does the frequency have anything to do with hitting a low note.cause i have the gain n half way turnt up. along with the frequency

Wasn't entirely sure on what section to stick this one in... So i've seen a few companies that make these "bass shakers" (mostly Aurasound.) I was wondering if anyone had any expereince with any bass shaker. I am by no means interested in buying one, just more or less curious about placement and effectiveness. If you ask me, they kind of sound like a stupid idea... but what do i know. They kinda look fun to play around with... but not for how much they cost.... and do they shake different for different frequencies or....? it's all confusing to me. thanks!

I need a new HU right now. I dont know if I want to go single or double din For single din im thinking about the Alpine 9887 (I dont like the new Pioneer ones, their interface sucks) For double din Im debating between Pioneer AVIC-Z120, Kenwood DNX9960 and Clarion NX700 and Eclipse AVN726E Now of course, with the double din I get much more features, but I lose a lot of things like crossovers, more-band equalizers, time alignment etc basically lose a lot of tuning options (will go active later on, dont know if the features matter after all?)and they are also much more expensive, these are $1000+ models. My goal is to have a loud car with muscle bass and clear highs, but de…

can some one please help me???? trying to find out how do u measure imp. rise? as in how do u go about getting the numbers, and how to check an amp for watts and eff%. any one with any input?

im trying to find out if ppl are still useing dynomat or they change to something else? i need to find out whats good out there on the market now kinda sick all the time my bass hit's the car sound like a tin can :|

i have a bl 18 in my nissan frontier crew cab on a 3000 watt hifonics brutus and i have about 300 more dollars to spend and i planned on getting another battery for about 100 dollars then should i get the epicenter or seal it off i might can do both but pretty much what im asking is what should i do from this point to make my system better

both are regarding my amp(s) and/or system. 1) whenever i have my car running, the voltage on my sub amp used to read around 14.2-14.4v, at idle. now its only reading around 12v, at idle, which is what it used to read with the truck off. which brings be to the second problem regarding this. now instead of my amp going into protect mode at 10.5v like before, its dropping down to 9v on the display. i highly doubt that its going that low. i havent touched any of the settings since i tuned it with the DMM. im not sure if its the display thats messed up, the amps reading thats wrong, or if im actually dropping that low. btw, the amp is a ma audio hk4000d that i bought off of …

Covered at least most of the holes in my front door. See if you can hear the difference, I could: OK, that one was joke . Here's the real one:

I know this has been covered before but I cant find it on the search feature. It would be a sealed box under the seat of a crew cab sierra Would 3 10s sealed hit harder than 2 12s. Using the same amp to each of them a RF Power 800a2

Ive currently got a single 0 gauge wire from front to back batteries, Will adding another run of 0 gauge increase or help anything? Im thinking of getting another yellowtop . Ive currently got 2 yellowtops in the back. the big one and smaller one

I'm not sure what I'm doing or not doing but this is my problem: I'm running a single Memphis MClass 12" sub in a 1.2cf sealed box that's powered by a USAcoustics2100 (300x1@4ohms/12.9v)in a '93 Altima sedan. My HU is a Pioneer 5500mp w/2v preouts, 2 cheapo (soon to be replaced) Jensen 5x7s in the front doors which are amped by a Hifonics Falcon (90x2 @4ohms). When driving around, w/the gains down on the front speaker amp, my average listening volume is around 20-30 (20 if my wife is with me) out of 62 (car's quiet inside and volume at 30 is plenty sufficient from front speakers). Any louder and the midrange and highs start screaming at me but toning down the mids/high…

Monster surge protector Is this worth the price or would i be overpaying for a overkill surge protector? What do you guys think?

anybody know any places that sale 200+amp alternators for a 1989 F-150 on the internet for a good price? thanks

Ok i just rushed and finished up my box not to long ago(too late to listen to it) and the opening of the port is 5.75"(what its suppose to be) but the closing end is 5.25".... Would that make a BIG noticeable difference in sound or should i end myself and the box?? If u need more specs let me know.

Has anyone used anything other than the popular Second Skin, Raamat, etc....closed and open cell products with great results. I googled this topic and found several companies proving a wide range of products that have similar claims and prices that vary from the prices on popular car audio products both ways. Just curious. I'm thinking I may try something new.

Been looking at the Fi Qs. But now I've read some good things about the Havocs as well. Just checking to see which one you guys may think would be a better all around daily driver for a sealed box with .90 cuft. per sub. Except for the fact that they're a good company I really dont much about Ascendant Audio. Which one has more Sq and which one is more Spl oriented or would one be better at both than the other? Also how much do the Havocs cost I couldnt seem to find that on their website. Thanks for any input.