SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Pardon the dust, under construction Hey guys! Have you ever seen panels in installs like this and wondered how in the world did they get those shapes? Well with a series of router tips and tricks, you can start with literally any shape drawn on paper (shown on left), and transform it into a perfectly fabricated wooden template that you can then copy several times into future installs. (Shown on right). Take your installs to the next level with these shaped panels that you can use for hiding amps and crossovers, trimming around speakers, making amazing port shapes, the possibilities are endless! Let's get down to the nitty gritty: What you Need: Safety First! Make sure…

Today's massive frames and motors add challenges to designing enclosures these days. What is the general "rule of thumb" for the minimum acceptable distance from the back of the woofer's motor/pole piece vent hole and the back wall of the enclosure, or a port wall? I'm playing around with different designs for an older Rockford Fosgate T210D4. I can handle the designs myself, I just need some input in this area. Thanks in advance!

Just made my first go at this google sketch up and was wanting some feed back to see if i need to make any corrections i'm building for either 3 fi bl 12's or 3 psi platform 2 12's heres a pic of what i have came up with so far

As the title says...I have 14.25 cubes available. I want to run 2 zcon 18's. I don't know anything at all whatsoever about designing a box. With that said, after subtracting driver displacement, port displacement, and bracing, will I have enough room? If not I have a Zcon 18" Dual 2 for sale lawl

Just waiting on getting my two 15" icons and, since I have nothing better to do I was wondering if there was any box type or orientation you'd like to see me try in my 2004 Impala. I'm going to try a ton of different boxes and orientations with a lot of testing to see what works out best in my application and I wanted to have some fun with it. I'm NOT doing a wall, but ill be pretty open to anything else you'd like to see me try. I might actually end up using your idea if it works out the best! -Mike

In my progression to finish my build, some of my amps may require amp inserts for dual cables per input. Now, i have the tools here to make it, that's easy. The thing i do NOT like about these inserts is how they are secured in the amp.. just by the little set screw on the amp.. For holding a solid piece, i fear the insert can "turn" eventually and i don't like that. Instead, i thought about purchasing a Metric tap and die set to tap the power and ground inserts on the amps. There appears to be enough metal in there to do so easily. I do not know 100% what size tap i need but i got some micrometers here to find out but the question is this- If i tap the amp and die the i…

guys i have an idea i want to do a new enclosure in the trunk of my 1995 caprice i was thinking of building 2 boxes one on the left side of the trunk facing inward and the other on the right side facing inward as well the boxes will be built to specs and ported for my db drive k915d4s powered by a bc3500d i also plan on cutting out the area behinfd the arm rest in the center of my back seat to act as a port into the cabin thid setup is for spl only but be used as a daily driver what do you guys tthink as fsr as the perfomance aspect of tis desighn there will be a total of 4 subs 2 on each side withe aproxamatley 10-15 inches between the boxes or less tips and feed back n…

willl be running a rockford fosgate t1500 on a 15" xcon listening to all sorts of music sq over spl but i still wanna move a lil bit of hair if it makes a difference does it make a big difference if the sub is up port back vs both up or both back? its going in a 98 Honda CRV....simular to the picture bellow, id post mine but im having a hard time figuring it out.

Curious, as anyone else seen a lot of box builders and designers using aero port areas equivalent to square or slotted port area? I was under the impression that the agreed upon rule of thumb was that you can use .56% less area while achieving like results. Within this practice, I find myself believing that if one were to use equal, that in theory, they are increasing their port area by, .56% I also lean toward this thought, if you correctly designed your enclosure and its port, based around the mathematics and t/s parameters of your driver, and chose to not use the formentioned rule of thumb,when using an aero port, that you have given too much port area to your design…

Hey everyone! I'm looking to replace my current set-up with something new. My amp just died today on the way home from work and so I'm in the need of a replacement. Currently I have a set of RS65.2's up front only, after pulling out the rear deck speakers. Having only a front sound stage is new to me but, after running it a few weeks, I got used to it and really enjoy it. What I'm looking for is either a new amp to power the existing set I already have (not sure how much life is left in them) or get a new amp and a set of components to match. Budget is ~500 but I wouldn't mind going a little more if I could get a nice eq in there to really dial in the system. If you need …

Looking for a box design for my 12" GCON. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

i bought a rockford fosgate t1500bd amp and it says its subsonic filter is at 28hz. im buying an Xcon 15 wich says to tune (optimal) 27-34hz going to try putting it in the optimal box size of 4 cubes. ive heard that 33hz is the best tuning frequency all around. i listen to all types of music and i want more sq than spl. also heard that your supposed to tune the box about 2hz higher than the subsonic filter. (gives me tuning of 30hz) is that true? why or why not? what should i tune my box to?

What is target vent match? what does the M/S stand for. and how do i know what numbers to chose?

Looking to get max spl in a trailbaler on a cadence a7hc. 1200 watts 1 ohm. I would like bass on all types of music. I have a 4" aero port laying around that i could use. Shoot me some ideas.

I'm designing a box for a 10" sub to go behind the seat of my 1988 toyota pickup extended cab. I have an air compressor behind the drivers seat and I don't want to lose access to my jack and tools behind the passenger seat. The floor is uneven so it takes up a lot of volume. Here are pics of the area i have to work with. And here is a basic design i made on sketchup It is 1.66 cu ft before sub displacement and port. I'm looking at an fi ssd sub and a 1000w rms amp, but I'm open to other suggestions. The sub will be facing the front. I have a formula for tuning a port and I'll probably do a slot style port but I'm not sure where in the box to put the port or how much …

I have my gcon in and it absolutely exceeds my expectations so now onto the next project. I want to go 3 way active and do a good door install. I have plenty of mdf and some mdf rings already. I also have duct seal to help add mass to the baffles. My goal is to increase midbass and keep the top end sparkle hence why I want to go 3 way instead of trying to pair a dedicated midbass with a tweeter or fullrange. My doors have a 6.5" speaker and a 2.5" speaker stock so that's what I am working with. I cannot alter the outside appearance of the door panel. My constraints are: Midbass: 6.5-7" and max of 3.5" deep Midrange: 2-3.5" and max of 3" deep. The tweeter is mounted above …

i know ive been asking a lot of questions but ive finally decided on all my equipment the only thing left is getting the box right. it will be a 12" type r fifth gen on an audioque 1200. ive built aero port boxes before but never a slot port. ive always done it with a single sub setup having the sub behind the passenget seat and the aero port out the side on the driver side. the box will be around 1.75^3 to 2.0. im just wondering the best box to get full potential out of the setup

Just looking for some help I guess. Mostly with the stock classes. The organization i was preparing for is looking like its just about dead (dbdrag). So im thinking it may be beneficial to build towards the rules of iasca. Anyone with experience competing in this format, I wouldnt mind a bit of help.

Hey guys i'm building my first my box for three fi bl 12's and want to tune it to 31-33 and was wondering which would be better? Sealed,ported, or banpass?? Any suggestions would be helpful

im having one hell of a time trying to cut a couple 45's, do i really need them? i have some stuff to seal the edges, its not caulk though. what do i need to brace it. gonna sand it all since theres some excess glue all over the place, and my top wont fit right cause the port walls are a little taller, so i need to sand that down. and finally, will it be a problem since one sub is unloading on the port wall? comments, suggestions?

I am looking for someone who can design an enclosure for my trunk, max dimms are: H=14", W=38", D=38", Tuned to 30hz, Will be using 7000wrms+. Thanks.

I'm looking into building an enclosure that measures 34W (left to right) x 18.5D (back to front) x 14.5 in height. The speaker is going to sit on top, port firing back. This is an L port design. The port will be 3 inches wide. My question is, if I want to tune at 33Hz how long would the other part of the port have to be (the one that runs across the back of the box)? I used RE's calculator for my last box a few years ago and it couldn't catch the lows for nothing, so I know something is not accurate about that calculator. If someone could help me with this, I'd appreciate it.

Hey guys I have a Fi BL 15" fully loaded woofer on the way. I will be building my box very soon here. I'm going to be running a Sundown 1500 D amp to it. I will listen mostly to low HZ rap or bass songs. I am looking for 32 HZ. Few questions: - Can someone give me some measurements for a ported box that is meant specifically for a BL 15" with 1500 RMS going to it? - I have read that this sub woofer recommends a 3-5 cu ft box. Does leaning towards 5 cu ft box have any benefits in SPL? -Any internal box bracing necessary with 3/4 " MDF wood? - Any cotton material necessary inside the box? Thank you

ok so im designing a box for two 12 inch xcons, ported going into my 2007 scion tc(Hatchback). Right now i have a decent box but its time for a rebuild. My box right now is 40.5 inches wide, 20 inches deep, and 17 inches high behind the rear seats. Its tuned at about 29-31 htz(not too sure). It does a 143.7 on the meter sealed up on the glass. No deadening, no beauty panels. But my concern is that my port is an Lport on the drivers side, it only goes halfway across the box so one woofer is above the port and the other is not. Im worried that the sub above the port is loading off of it and the other is not. If it is i want to fix this, so a rebuild is underway. It has bee…

So I'm doing a build in my 2003 Dodge Dakota crew cab of 2 15" icons and would like to reinforce my roof. I'm getting 3/4-1" flex on one 10" incriminator I series and also headliner slap and it drives me crazy. I have a bulk pack of dynomat extreme I got for like 20 bucks. Would 3/8" MDF with kerfs And lots of pl then dynomat between headliner and wood be good? Just want to cut down roof flex and stop headliner flex. Any suggestions? I would rather not have to order stuff if possible as I'm tearing truck apart this weekend and shipping is slow Thanks