SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hey there! I need serious help building a ported box. Ive never had, nor built a ported box and i want to see for myself what the difference is. Ive tried every different box calculator i can find, but im sad to say there a little too complicated for me to understand. Im a rookie when it comes to car audio specs. Im a pro at listening tho lol. I want to learn more, a lot more, but everyone close to me dont want to teach, they want to charge. i could easily build a sealed box, but i really want to port my subs. I have 2 lethal injection 12's. I need 4 cubes, 60 square inches of port and i want it tuned at about 32hz. Space is not an issue. I took the back seat out of my ra…

I know those precision sound ports from parts express are pretty popular so i am thinking someone might have an answer for me when using the psp flared port length calculator (http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html) is the "flare length port required" from the ends of the flared portion of the port? or is it the straight length portion that the flared ends connect to? thanks in advance

I have 2 Sundown SA-15s and i plan on building a new box to make them perform better. The usable space i have is: Height: 21" Depth: 28" Width: 36.5". How big would you guys make it, what port area, and tuning. It's a daily driver no spl but i would prefer it LOUD

My setup is gonna be 1 Fi audio BL 15" dual 2 ohms. what should i tune my box to so i get maxim SPL!!!

Hello everybody I'm new here. I worked as a car audio and alarm installer 15 years ago. I have not had a decent system since...well...a long time. I bought a 1997 Honda Odyssey and I really like the van. I'd like to build a nice system. Can you give me suggestions on what components to use for a nice simple front sound stage that focuses on sound quality? I like "vocally" music. I also like dubstep and house music. I really like vocally dubstep. I also listen to talk-radio. I am thinking I am going to use a SSA DCON or GCON for bass. Maybe a SKAR 800.1 for a sub amp. I have no idea what components to use for the mids and highs. The head unit is a JVC KD-X50BT. I bought th…

Designing a new enclosure for a Fi Q18. I want to be sure that sub placement would not cause any issues with unloading thru the port or odd loading issues off the port wall. It is only a single sub, so I dont believe the loading off the port wall would be an issue. Here is a quick sketch up of the enclosure. The guide mark is the mounting depth, and is approx 4" from the back plate to the port wall. I would prefer center placement just for aesthetics but functionally I believe the position closest to the exterior port vent and above the port wall may be the best bet. Thanks for any insight

ok, i done a trunk build but ports not tuned right and i want to get lower and louder so im going to be removing the rear seat in my 95 fleetwood and thats where the box shall go. i want to keep it at window line so these are my max measurements to work with height 23" depth 26" width 56" height really needs to be 22"-23" but the width and depth can be smaller if need be, with those specs its around 16.5 cubes before subs and port, i want to be tuned around 32-33hz for rap music whats the best size box for this application, please help, any help is mucho appreciated

I was simply wondering what is some of the different types of Building Material are the best? I know the word best is subjective, but in this scenerio, weight is not an issue. Of course, I could simply double up on 3/4 MDF, and do some well bracing, I'm aware of that. But I'm also aware that, the material your using can greatly alter the output. Thats the main reason extreme vehicles use concrete. I am not willing to use concrete. I know I said weight is not an issue, but thats a bit much, plus would put me into the extreme class. The reason I'm asking, is because this will be my burp enclosure. I've heard of some competitors using marble, and other hard/rock like materia…

I want my subs to face up with the port up like one of my previous boxes. I cant seem to get a lot of input and like Ive said previously the pro designers dotn wanna mess with a camaro enclosure. Assuming ive done my math correctly does this look like a suitable enclosure? I just started using sketchup so I have figured everything out so nothings 45'ed or anything.

I am in the process of redoing my front stage. It will be an active three way. My head unit is a Pioneer DEX-P99RS and my amplifier for my front stage is an Arc Audio KS900.6. My goals for my front stage is to have excellent mid bass and to create a realistic soundstage with excellent imaging. To kick of my install I started with the midbass. I currently have a Viper 650.2 component set (running active) installed for midrange/tweeter duties. I will be replacing the Viper set. My midbass install consists of Dayton Audio RS225-4 drivers mounted in very tiny (.2-.3^3ft) sealed enclosures with ScanSpeak flow resistors. The ScanSpeak flow resistors are AP mats about 4" in diam…

I have a DC Level 4 18 m2 on the way and i want to make the box before ite gets here (cuz im so impatient) going in a 99 grand cherokee listen to all types of music but i do like playing down to like 27 hz or so powered by an american bass HD 3500 (1600rms) id like double baffles max dim are 40 wide 30 deep and 20 tall i think that about covers what is needed. any help would be awesome! thanks guys

alright, so i've been debating something here and i wanted to get your opinions on it. some of you may know that i have a Hummer H2 that i've been slowly putting together for an "SQ" style build. now i have been thinking about doing 6.5's components active in the front doors with the tweeters being in the factory A pillars pointing straight at each other, 5.25 components active in some kicks with with the tweeters also housed down there, 6.5's with the passive x-overs in the rear doors and some 4in midbass/mid range in the factory rear pillars and the fatory 8in. sub replaced with a Pro Audio 8in and i wanted to know how that sounded to you guys and your input on this set…

After searching for a place to put my tweeters with no luck I've decided some custom fabrication must be done. I've never done anything like this. I plan to have some type of pod in the bottom of the a pillar ontop of the dash for the crescendo ft1 tweeters. What material should I use and how is it done? http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i38/snaimpally/Pod9.jpg Something like that.

Pic of specs (or really close to, but hows the design, first ever, opinons, ideas, positive feeback.... will it work?? lol thanks guys!!

Okay, so I had two questions: How does inverting your subwoofers affect SPL/""SQL"" if at all? & How would I go about making one side of my enclosure plexi-glass? (how to secure it to the box) Just asking because I've never done either before and was thinking about one or the other for my next build. Thanks guys!

Alright guys, here it is. Not too bad for my first time I think. PS. This is on completely Stock electrical (other than a cap) and we all know how well caps help you out and only 1.5k wrms. Music Peak: Test Tone: ~48hz

Hey guys! Just made a video showing how to create a subwoofer enclosure in Google Sketchup! Go ahead and check out the video and let me know what you think!

I'll soon be picking up a second Skar VVX which leaves me to a new box build (: It'll be going in the rear cargo area of a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee I'd did it tuned somewhere around 33-34Hz and about 5 cubes after displacement Subs up and port back Will be using 3/4 mdf and the top will be a double baffle (2 3/4 pieces) and the subs will be countersunk will be building an amp rack off the back (so facing the front of the car) but that really isnt part of the box design Max dim are 40 wide 25 deep and 20 tall, (pref 15 tall though) Everything I will be running is 2 Skar VVX 15's D4 wired to 1 ohm Concept HPN-1500 (clamped clean at 1100) Big 3 upgrade (to be done when i buil…

I am starting a build for a friend of mine. His goals are a decent amount of bass in a removable package. This will be installed in late model 4-runner. After talking with Brian (BKOLFO4) about some different single driver solutions that would have good output he suggested a single Mayhem 15, and well, kind of going to take his word for it. As for power, I bought a single Cresendo 3500, should be plenty of power. The 4-runner has a decent factory stereo (Nav and all that crap) so we wanted to keep what we could. I picked up one of the new Audio Control LC2i: http://www.audiocont...ol----LC2i.html because I am sick of PAC Trunk LOCs. They are POS's that are nothing b…

Alright.. So I thought the first time Id be going to be metered was gonna be in July at my first dbdrag competition.. BUT, my local car audio shop is having a grand re-opening with spl meter readings.. Prizes are being given but its more for fun, I really need to get going and run this 0 gauge and install my 2nd battery, iv only got 4 days! Anyways, just wondering if there are 'general' rules to get the best number out of your car. Im running a trunk car, already know my cars peak which helps. Iv heard things like keeping your seats all the way forward helps.. ect. Im sure its different for every car, but I want to show my best at my first time on the meter.

Anyone from the Long Island NY/NJ/CT Area want to build me a sealed enclosure for 2 12s - or know of anyplace that would? I'm not looking for anything extravagant, just something ~ 1.5 FT^3 per chamber. I don't have the time to do it myself (and I've never made one). Trying to stay away from pre-fab junk. Shipping or Pick-up is cool. Can someone help me out? Thanks, Snapper

Hey all.I was just wondering if I should get longer aero ports.Right now I have 2 4" PSP aero ports and they are kinda short in my opinion.I wasnt real sure on which way to measure them so I measured them from flare to flare.I was aiming for 35hz for my tuning.The flares right now are 11" long from flare to flare.The tube part is only 5" long and the rest of the length is the flares.Here is my setup info. I have 4 10" DC Audio Level 3 m2's with level 4 upgrades and a dc 5k My box deminsions are 16" Tall x 30" Wide x 23" Deep. So should I lengthen my ports to get more port area or not? Let me know if anymore info is needed please.Thanks

Why is it bad to have the height to width ratio larger than 1:8? I made a box that is too small.... and thats the only i really can make my box tund low enough... i fucked up and now im out 2 sheets of mdf and a lot of time and effort... damn..

hey guys, im about to build a ported box to sit on my back seat, just for a little fun. amp is an saz1500d@1 ohm wired up to a diehard gold with 2/0 welding cable I realize box recommendations are 1.5 to 2 cubes ported at around 30-35hz with 12-15sq inches of port area per cube, but i was wondering if there was something more exact due to my lower power and config (being in a truck on the seat) its going to be a slot port because im going to use re's box calculator. oh and i planned on going sub firing up and port facing the windshield, is this a good or bad idea? im just looking for a daily street beater

Ok, so now I'm hooked. I have the 2 12" zcon's in and the 2500d. Now I want more. Have an eye on a ns-1. What will I need to do for a competition box? Keep in mind that I do have a s-10 extended cab 3 door and it is a daily driver that I want to make into a competition truck. Current box is supposedly 4.75^3 at 36hz? I think the hz is correct. Have to double check. It was designed by ram-designs. It's a angled back or trapezoid style box. Top is 14x43, bottom is 20x43 and it is 18 tall. I come uP with 5.4^3 after sub displacement. What do I need to do? What is the difference in a comp box vs a ported box?